- Thread starter
- #521
Correct. I need to put a couple of fasteners in to mount some interior lights currently being held by zip ties
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- Thread starter sogncab
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Correct. I need to put a couple of fasteners in to mount some interior lights currently being held by zip ties
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
If you drill a hole in the rollbar you'll be sadly disappointed. They are surprisingly very thin. A sheetmetal screw will probably work better.
- Thread starter
- #523
I figured there wouldn't be much metal. Rivnut might be the hot ticket there.
I have been kicking around buying a tool anyways.
- Thread starter
- #524
Retorqued my ubolts after work today. I think I put about 500 miles on since putting the flip kit on. Probably should've done it sooner. Two nuts didn't budge before the click. Two got probably a full turn before the click. The rest were a quarter to half turn.
I had to return my brother's torque wrench, so it was a good time for Tinker to get some runs out.
I had to return my brother's torque wrench, so it was a good time for Tinker to get some runs out.
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- Thread starter
- #525
Productive weekend of screwing around.
I got jealous of some of the drawer setups at SAS
I had the shelf in there already so Tinker had a place to snooze, but I canned all of that and started from scratch.
I skeletonized what I could to trim weight. Also cut some material out of the drawer sides for the same reason.
No hardware/slides on the drawers to fail from getting pounded on the road or trails, just a friction fit.
The old dog shelf was a royal PIA to remove. This is just yank the drawers out. Undo four thumb screws for the shelf. Remove shelf. Remove main box. I bet I could have functioning rear seats in under five minutes.
As always, I'd change a few things, but for the most part it turned out well.
And my poor abused dog. Nobody loves her.
I got jealous of some of the drawer setups at SAS
I had the shelf in there already so Tinker had a place to snooze, but I canned all of that and started from scratch.
I skeletonized what I could to trim weight. Also cut some material out of the drawer sides for the same reason.
No hardware/slides on the drawers to fail from getting pounded on the road or trails, just a friction fit.
The old dog shelf was a royal PIA to remove. This is just yank the drawers out. Undo four thumb screws for the shelf. Remove shelf. Remove main box. I bet I could have functioning rear seats in under five minutes.
As always, I'd change a few things, but for the most part it turned out well.
And my poor abused dog. Nobody loves her.
- Thread starter
- #527
She's unloved. Just ask her.the snoofer tho
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Looking great to me - you doing/have front speakers?
- Thread starter
- #530
I poked holes in the door cards and have speakers mounted. I haven't drilled through the door to hide the wires yet though.... I'm scared.
Man I love your wood working.
Amazing how well things turn out with the right tools.
Amazing how well things turn out with the right tools.
- Thread starter
- #532
Having all the toys does make it easier, but I would be lost without twenty six years of experience behind me.
I watch some YouTube machinists with extreme jealousy. I'd kill to have a 5 axis machining center. Just to make a bracket.
Heck, even this project. I need to get myself a 3D printer to make a bracket to fit that curve in the back. The way I'm clamping it in now isn't as cool as it needs to be.
This is almost the final. Tapping out this post I revisited a mounting idea that I had dismissed earlier. There's couple of nuts in the back of the tub that will work to bolt these in. I think.... I don't know if I can get the speaker into the enclosure with the box mounted.
- Thread starter
- #533
Success. Going with those holes worked well.
I'll let these simmer for a bit. See if any moments of brilliance makes another idea come to light, then cut out some finals.
Not that this is a kick ass stereo, but the two rear speakers definitely help for sound.
I'll let these simmer for a bit. See if any moments of brilliance makes another idea come to light, then cut out some finals.
Not that this is a kick ass stereo, but the two rear speakers definitely help for sound.
- Thread starter
- #534
Apparently I haven't updated this in a bit.
I've got an issue in my lights in the front bumper. I built a nice subharness from the front bumper to the engine bay last year. I was concerned it was something in that, but unplugged everything and all the wires ohm'd out. So I don't think it's that.
I think the problem is somewhere between the engine bay, and the cockpit. I had some wires that were getting hot, but I'm not sure why. I used bigger wire than what Rigid sent with the lights. So I'm guessing I've got something that rubbed through and is causing a minor short.
The plan has always been to add a separate fuse, relay and harness setup for the auxiliary lighting. I bought a six bay box. Spent the afternoon today getting all of the terminals soldered up.
I bought a 9 wire SO cord that has a pretty small gauge for a signal wire from the center console to the relays.
On this I need to put the back up lights, center 6" lights, and the smaller flush mounted lights.
I currently have the rear lights setup so they are ON when in reverse, OFF, and constant ON. Flicking the switch to on has been handy a couple of times when somebody is riding my ass.
I'm going to wire the front lights on three position switches as well. That way I can leave the switch on, and cycle the relay from the high beams, leave them off, or have them constant on.
I've got one switch in the console that is currently not being used, I'll wire that to one of the relays for future use, and hang a plug out for it. I don't know I'll put on it, but might be handy some day. I've wanted to add lights facing out to the sides for quite a while. Just haven't come up with a place to mount them that won't look dumb to me.
There's two fused relays left I don't have switchs for, but never know. Better to have room for expansion than not.
I've got an issue in my lights in the front bumper. I built a nice subharness from the front bumper to the engine bay last year. I was concerned it was something in that, but unplugged everything and all the wires ohm'd out. So I don't think it's that.
I think the problem is somewhere between the engine bay, and the cockpit. I had some wires that were getting hot, but I'm not sure why. I used bigger wire than what Rigid sent with the lights. So I'm guessing I've got something that rubbed through and is causing a minor short.
The plan has always been to add a separate fuse, relay and harness setup for the auxiliary lighting. I bought a six bay box. Spent the afternoon today getting all of the terminals soldered up.
I bought a 9 wire SO cord that has a pretty small gauge for a signal wire from the center console to the relays.
On this I need to put the back up lights, center 6" lights, and the smaller flush mounted lights.
I currently have the rear lights setup so they are ON when in reverse, OFF, and constant ON. Flicking the switch to on has been handy a couple of times when somebody is riding my ass.
I'm going to wire the front lights on three position switches as well. That way I can leave the switch on, and cycle the relay from the high beams, leave them off, or have them constant on.
I've got one switch in the console that is currently not being used, I'll wire that to one of the relays for future use, and hang a plug out for it. I don't know I'll put on it, but might be handy some day. I've wanted to add lights facing out to the sides for quite a while. Just haven't come up with a place to mount them that won't look dumb to me.
There's two fused relays left I don't have switchs for, but never know. Better to have room for expansion than not.
- Thread starter
- #535
I spent eleven hours dicking around with this today. Three or four yesterday. My buddy Chris thinks it's fetal alcohol syndrome. He could be right, I don't know.
I do know I burn a lot of brain cells figuring this stuff out, and it shouldn't be that hard.
It mostly went to plan. I had to de-pin the relays. I had the ground on the wrong leg of the relay. Bit of a pain in the ass, but I didn't let the smoke out of anything, so not the end of the world.
Diodes only allow electricity to pass in one direction. Front bumper lights weren't working, I flip flopped the pins on that Deutsch connector. Easy fix.
I flipped one of the unused wires with a wire that was supposed to be used at the switch panel, so there was no juice going to the relay to trigger it. Also, not a big deal.
DJ will be happy I cleaned up the jury rigged wiring I had running the lights....
I think I soldered 36 connections in the fuse block? 6 fuses = 12, 6 relays = 24.
Yeah, 36.
I didn't like the idea of crimping them on. I think it would've created issues later on.
I don't know how many terminals I crimped on then hit the heat shrink with a heat gun.
Then pinning out Deutsch connectors. I think there was a zillion pins. I freaking love Deutsch connectors. Stupid easy to make a tidy connection.
I had to demo out the old wiring, which meant having to rewire this nightmare.
This is the inside of the Tuffy box. It's a giant liability being exposed like this. I do have a plan to make a cover for this from ¼" UHMW plastic, I just haven't gotten around to it. I started laying it out one day, but I was struggling with the math, and called it future Karl's problem.
Poor Tinker. Bored to tears.
I don't know wtf I was trying to capture here. Somewhere in the process.
I did have a plan. I made a map and a list of what wire colors are doing what, and which fuses cover which circuits. I'll cut that out and laminate it with clear tape and stuff it in the box.
I should add to that spreadsheet what wire colors are doing what and where. I have a lot of repeating colors being I don't have easy access to a wide variety of wire colors. Basically I'm a lazy POS.
While redoing all the wiring for the switches, I did wire up the illumination somewhat correctly. When the dash lights are on, now they are all illuminated on the bottom half of the switch like they are supposed to be.
I say mostly correctly, because I forgot I needed to jumper three of the switches to illuminate the top half when in the on position. I wish these switches came with 3 lamps, and were wired internally for the on positions to illuminate. The back is really crowded on a three position switch. Plus it's confusing for the high school drop outs of the world.....
This is the 9 wire 18ga SO cord I bought. That worked perfectly. I had three wires coming into the switch panel.
Running lights
High beam
Reverse light.
I needed two of those three go back under the hood to trigger the front lights, and the rear lights when wanted. The running lights were for illuminating the switches.
The remaining six wires are for engaging the relays. I'm only using four of them. If I want to use the spare two, I'll have to find a place to add two switches.
Super sweet having the front bumper lights so they turn on with the high beams and an arming switch. I haven't driven it yet, but I'm be in sure I'll be glad I did it. I use those lights a lot around here, and hitting the switches all the time had been annoying. I live in a rural area, and I fricking hate, HATE, HaTe, Haaaaaate deer. Also makes punishing some oncoming A-hole, that doesn't want to turn their high beams off, take a little less effort. Should also help prevent me from being the A-hole of I fumble a switch and I don't turn one set or both off.
just need to make connection for grounds, and battery positive and wiring should be good. I might shorten up a few connections as well. I think I went a little overboard, and made everything too long.
I need to come up with a plan for a mounting bracket as well. I have a plan, just haven't implemented it yet. I'll need access to a brake to fold it up.
I do know I burn a lot of brain cells figuring this stuff out, and it shouldn't be that hard.
It mostly went to plan. I had to de-pin the relays. I had the ground on the wrong leg of the relay. Bit of a pain in the ass, but I didn't let the smoke out of anything, so not the end of the world.
Diodes only allow electricity to pass in one direction. Front bumper lights weren't working, I flip flopped the pins on that Deutsch connector. Easy fix.
I flipped one of the unused wires with a wire that was supposed to be used at the switch panel, so there was no juice going to the relay to trigger it. Also, not a big deal.
DJ will be happy I cleaned up the jury rigged wiring I had running the lights....
I think I soldered 36 connections in the fuse block? 6 fuses = 12, 6 relays = 24.
Yeah, 36.
I didn't like the idea of crimping them on. I think it would've created issues later on.
I don't know how many terminals I crimped on then hit the heat shrink with a heat gun.
Then pinning out Deutsch connectors. I think there was a zillion pins. I freaking love Deutsch connectors. Stupid easy to make a tidy connection.
I had to demo out the old wiring, which meant having to rewire this nightmare.
This is the inside of the Tuffy box. It's a giant liability being exposed like this. I do have a plan to make a cover for this from ¼" UHMW plastic, I just haven't gotten around to it. I started laying it out one day, but I was struggling with the math, and called it future Karl's problem.
Poor Tinker. Bored to tears.
I don't know wtf I was trying to capture here. Somewhere in the process.
I did have a plan. I made a map and a list of what wire colors are doing what, and which fuses cover which circuits. I'll cut that out and laminate it with clear tape and stuff it in the box.
I should add to that spreadsheet what wire colors are doing what and where. I have a lot of repeating colors being I don't have easy access to a wide variety of wire colors. Basically I'm a lazy POS.
While redoing all the wiring for the switches, I did wire up the illumination somewhat correctly. When the dash lights are on, now they are all illuminated on the bottom half of the switch like they are supposed to be.
I say mostly correctly, because I forgot I needed to jumper three of the switches to illuminate the top half when in the on position. I wish these switches came with 3 lamps, and were wired internally for the on positions to illuminate. The back is really crowded on a three position switch. Plus it's confusing for the high school drop outs of the world.....
This is the 9 wire 18ga SO cord I bought. That worked perfectly. I had three wires coming into the switch panel.
Running lights
High beam
Reverse light.
I needed two of those three go back under the hood to trigger the front lights, and the rear lights when wanted. The running lights were for illuminating the switches.
The remaining six wires are for engaging the relays. I'm only using four of them. If I want to use the spare two, I'll have to find a place to add two switches.
Super sweet having the front bumper lights so they turn on with the high beams and an arming switch. I haven't driven it yet, but I'm be in sure I'll be glad I did it. I use those lights a lot around here, and hitting the switches all the time had been annoying. I live in a rural area, and I fricking hate, HATE, HaTe, Haaaaaate deer. Also makes punishing some oncoming A-hole, that doesn't want to turn their high beams off, take a little less effort. Should also help prevent me from being the A-hole of I fumble a switch and I don't turn one set or both off.
just need to make connection for grounds, and battery positive and wiring should be good. I might shorten up a few connections as well. I think I went a little overboard, and made everything too long.
I need to come up with a plan for a mounting bracket as well. I have a plan, just haven't implemented it yet. I'll need access to a brake to fold it up.
- Thread starter
- #536
Holy crap this was a lot of time.
Made a prototype from ⅛" mdf on the cnc.
Obviously...
Then took the third protype to the shop that made my bumper and had them fold it up for me. The original plan was to try and tig some nuts on the backside, but that didn't work with the stainless. So folded up another one, and just tapped the holes. I hate stainless BTW. Drills like crap, taps like crap. It even sucks to file.
I put a little piece of grip tape on the under side to keep the steel fender away from the stainless bracket. Less tin worm issues I hope.
Here is the remaining four and half square inches of space under the hood and where it is going.
Bracket mounted.
This is a steel fastener that will be going into the stainless bracket For mounting the box. I don't know if this will actually help anything, but we will see.
I did a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on them to maybe slow the electrolysis. Maybe.
Might also help with the threads galling. Maybe.
And the box bolted down with all connections made. All in all, I'm super pleased. This turned out really sweet.
I don't really want to think about how much time it took to get here. I bet I had all in, 40-50 hours of jerking around to do the wiring, in the box, from the center console to the box, and the box to the sub harnesses I made for lighting. The lighting harnesses were probably another 10-15 hours if I were to guess.
Inside the console. I'd been noodling this idea since I made the switch panel almost two years ago. The wires are all exposed to the inside of the console, and probably a bit of a liability. I tend to carry things that are conductive like a handgun in the console frequently, and one good bump causing the vehicle to fry something important seems like unnecessary hassle.
So, I came up with this.
Tinker, as always, is the one in charge here.
Basically just a bunch of math and a piece of UHMW plastic cut on the cnc. I think this is version six. And not the final.
I've got two circuits in the box not being used, and no where to put a switch. The top of this might be a dandy place to put two more switches. I also want to mount a light towards the bottom on the interior light switch to illuminate the inside of the box.
This isn't the final version, but it's REALLY close. I still need to figure out how to fasten it. I might also make the final out of white plastic so it's not such a black hole.
I feel better having these protected. I also feel good having this wiring project buttoned up. It was a mountain of effort for this moron, and I'm pleased with the outcome.
- Thread starter
- #537
Here is how I made the cover in the console.
Cut a notches at the appropriate angles where I want the folds to be. Luckily the front of a tuffy box is at 22½º, and I've got tooling to make that work. A 91º V tool, and a 120º, which isn't exactly correct, but will be fine for this.
Flat
Sides folded in.
Top and sides folded in.
And standing like it would be in the console.
After cutting the last one and making some clearance cuts, I decided I'm not going to mitre the sides into the top. The top will just be a flap that lands flat on the sides. I think that'll be a cleaner solution.
I cut all the grooving operations leaving .015" of material. It was a complete guess. Might benefit leaving a touch more material, but I also didn't see much reason to change it either.
No room for switches in the horizontal surface of this piece. The lock mechanism will touch. The vertical part might work though. I'll have to take some measurements.
Cut a notches at the appropriate angles where I want the folds to be. Luckily the front of a tuffy box is at 22½º, and I've got tooling to make that work. A 91º V tool, and a 120º, which isn't exactly correct, but will be fine for this.
Flat
Sides folded in.
Top and sides folded in.
And standing like it would be in the console.
After cutting the last one and making some clearance cuts, I decided I'm not going to mitre the sides into the top. The top will just be a flap that lands flat on the sides. I think that'll be a cleaner solution.
I cut all the grooving operations leaving .015" of material. It was a complete guess. Might benefit leaving a touch more material, but I also didn't see much reason to change it either.
No room for switches in the horizontal surface of this piece. The lock mechanism will touch. The vertical part might work though. I'll have to take some measurements.
- Thread starter
- #538
Ignore mismatched fasteners....
Installed the SMG pins in the ambulance doors today. The CNC is running some 40 minute long programs today, so I've got plenty of time to dick around with unproductive things while the robot is being productive.
I dicked up this one. Head up my ass. I'll have to source another hinge and swap it over.
I drilled out the one body side of the hinge to ⅜ because I'm a moron and thought the bushing had to go into that. That is incorrect. F&%@
Marked the center of the pin and kept drilling it out until the head popped off.
Worked well enough. Just tapped it out with a punch after the fact.
Even with one hinge marginally F'd up, it's a vast improvement. My hinges are in not great condition.
If I put a Honda fastener in the back door of a Toyota does it add or deduct horse pressure?
The clearances are tight on the bottom hinge head to the pin. I had some of these screws from a 2000 Honda 400EX in a bin that will work. I'm not thrilled about that, but don't have a better solution. I might buy enough to fill all of the holes with a Phillips head fastener so they at least match.
I need to win the lottery. The factory hinges are a hair better than terrible. Given the time and equipment, a really sweet alternative that looks semi factory could be milled out of a block of steel and really hold some tolerance and operate smoothly. My original hinges are pretty shot.
Monkeying around with other ideas, I ram the power wire through a piece of 4mm poly tubing. I think it's a good idea. The wire was getting beat up and I wasn't a fan. I'll have to dig for some black. I thought I had some. So I'll look, not find it, order some, then find it when I put away the rest of the new stuff.
Might cut out the parts for the dog shelf if I'm not sick of listening to the cnc run when it's done running the money making stuff.
Installed the SMG pins in the ambulance doors today. The CNC is running some 40 minute long programs today, so I've got plenty of time to dick around with unproductive things while the robot is being productive.
I dicked up this one. Head up my ass. I'll have to source another hinge and swap it over.
I drilled out the one body side of the hinge to ⅜ because I'm a moron and thought the bushing had to go into that. That is incorrect. F&%@
Marked the center of the pin and kept drilling it out until the head popped off.
Worked well enough. Just tapped it out with a punch after the fact.
Even with one hinge marginally F'd up, it's a vast improvement. My hinges are in not great condition.
If I put a Honda fastener in the back door of a Toyota does it add or deduct horse pressure?
The clearances are tight on the bottom hinge head to the pin. I had some of these screws from a 2000 Honda 400EX in a bin that will work. I'm not thrilled about that, but don't have a better solution. I might buy enough to fill all of the holes with a Phillips head fastener so they at least match.
I need to win the lottery. The factory hinges are a hair better than terrible. Given the time and equipment, a really sweet alternative that looks semi factory could be milled out of a block of steel and really hold some tolerance and operate smoothly. My original hinges are pretty shot.
Monkeying around with other ideas, I ram the power wire through a piece of 4mm poly tubing. I think it's a good idea. The wire was getting beat up and I wasn't a fan. I'll have to dig for some black. I thought I had some. So I'll look, not find it, order some, then find it when I put away the rest of the new stuff.
Might cut out the parts for the dog shelf if I'm not sick of listening to the cnc run when it's done running the money making stuff.
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I've got extra hinges, probably a few decent green ones actually... I'll have to check when I get stuff dug out here soon for spring.
- Thread starter
- #540
That'd be awesome.
I really just need the upper one on the driver's side, but I'll take a whole set too.
