OlYellr
SILVER Star
Looking great!
My TLC experience (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter sogncab
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- Thread starter
- #502
Started working up something to close the hole in the cowl vent. I'll machine out a fake vent to resemble the stamped out factory one, but with no holes. Then put a gasket on the back side. I need to get a tool I don't have to put a small radius on all the edges. Should look pretty factory.
A question: I'm concerned I may be encouraging corrosion. No matter what I do, water will still get in there, but now it won't be able to breath.
Found some tire damage. That made me sad. I think it's cosmetic, but I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Bailing on the wall at Poughkeepsie Gulch.
A question: I'm concerned I may be encouraging corrosion. No matter what I do, water will still get in there, but now it won't be able to breath.
Found some tire damage. That made me sad. I think it's cosmetic, but I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Bailing on the wall at Poughkeepsie Gulch.
- Thread starter
- #503
I failed at getting a picture of the bent up ubolt and mangled plate on the front.
But, I did get a picture of the 4 plus flip kit installed.
Easy install. Lift up the vehicle, let the front suspension hang, remove the old junk, install the new.
The ubolts are a mile long, so they do have to be cut off.
One less thing to get snagged!
I don't know what I hit, (honestly, I hope it was a bicyclist...), but I bent the snot out of the drag link. I took it off, clamped it in a vise, and got it half assed straight again.
It'll be getting replaced.
Steering box is leaking out the other end now. Grrr. That's why everything is covered in oil. Again.
If I'm going to pull the box, I'm just going to bite the bullet and put a shop built box back in.
Tinker found a bunny nest and murdered a bunch of baby bunnies. That dog was a Hitler in a previous life.
But, I did get a picture of the 4 plus flip kit installed.
Easy install. Lift up the vehicle, let the front suspension hang, remove the old junk, install the new.
The ubolts are a mile long, so they do have to be cut off.
One less thing to get snagged!
I don't know what I hit, (honestly, I hope it was a bicyclist...), but I bent the snot out of the drag link. I took it off, clamped it in a vise, and got it half assed straight again.
It'll be getting replaced.
Steering box is leaking out the other end now. Grrr. That's why everything is covered in oil. Again.
If I'm going to pull the box, I'm just going to bite the bullet and put a shop built box back in.
Tinker found a bunny nest and murdered a bunch of baby bunnies. That dog was a Hitler in a previous life.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Good boy!! And Tinker with the rabbits too!! Seriously though - I got my 4plus flip kit Saturday and was thinking I need to find a closeup -and then you post!! I thank ya.
Warning - coming up the 25th - got Twins tickets. And/but... my engine is done at the machine shop - so would be short -
Warning - coming up the 25th - got Twins tickets. And/but... my engine is done at the machine shop - so would be short -
- Thread starter
- #506
Installed the rear tonight.
Pretty simple install. Lift up the rear, let the suspension hang.
One side at a time, snugged them up, cut off the excess threads, and gave them ugga's on the ones I could. Torqued the nuts to 108 ft/lbs.
I spent probably and hour and a half swapping parts out.
Pretty simple install. Lift up the rear, let the suspension hang.
One side at a time, snugged them up, cut off the excess threads, and gave them ugga's on the ones I could. Torqued the nuts to 108 ft/lbs.
I spent probably and hour and a half swapping parts out.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Dude! - you read my mind - sure it is/was simple according to my ex. I randomly opened the box for the rear and couldn't imagine what goes where. Now I get it - was going to ask you to post a pic of your rear tonight. 
Flip-Kit - perverts, I'm not that lonely.
Flip-Kit - perverts, I'm not that lonely.- Thread starter
- #508
Dude! - you read my mind - sure it is/was simple according to my ex. I randomly opened the box for the rear and couldn't imagine what goes where. Now I get it - was going to ask you to post a pic of your rear tonight.
It's pretty straight forward. It can really only go one way.
- Thread starter
- #509
Back in the 80 for the week.
Reman steering box started pissing out the input side now and filling the front cross member with fluid. hooray
Yacked it out after work today. @DangerNoodle can you make those bolts a little more unpleasant to remove bud?
I wrapped the ports in stretch wrap. Then wrapped it in foam, and stretch wrapped the bejesus out of it again. Tossed it in a box full of packing peanuts. Hopefully it survives. (And doesn't turn into an oily mess along the way)
Reman steering box started pissing out the input side now and filling the front cross member with fluid. hooray
Yacked it out after work today. @DangerNoodle can you make those bolts a little more unpleasant to remove bud?
I wrapped the ports in stretch wrap. Then wrapped it in foam, and stretch wrapped the bejesus out of it again. Tossed it in a box full of packing peanuts. Hopefully it survives. (And doesn't turn into an oily mess along the way)
Back in the 80 for the week.
View attachment 3404547
Reman steering box started pissing out the input side now and filling the front cross member with fluid. hooray
Yacked it out after work today. @DangerNoodle can you make those bolts a little more unpleasant to remove bud?
View attachment 3404548
View attachment 3404550
View attachment 3404551
I wrapped the ports in stretch wrap. Then wrapped it in foam, and stretch wrapped the bejesus out of it again. Tossed it in a box full of packing peanuts. Hopefully it survives. (And doesn't turn into an oily mess along the way)
View attachment 3404552
Not my choice lmao. We suffer every time.
- Thread starter
- #511
Oh, I'm well aware. I'm just poking the bear.
- Thread starter
- #512
Rebuilt reman steering box mounted.
I had these guys do it. They're in North Dakota somewhere. I shipped it last Friday, and got it back today.
Mounting it to the frame was actually easier than taking it off. Now I know to loosen all of the bolts kinda at the same time, and to use a ratcheting box end wrench.
It drives differently. Like the initial effort to turn the wheel is higher. I'm betting it'll wear in a bit, and that'll go away.
It bled immediately too. I lifted the front wheels off the ground and turned the wheel stop to stop 4-5 times, and when I started it, no groaning or whine. I frequently had a whine like it was burping air before. Got me as to why, but I'm guessing a crap seal somewhere.
Apparently, getting the steering shaft clocked to the input shaft is way too hard for me to do correctly.
I did it twice
and it's still off one spline. That's annoying. Almost as annoying as it being off almost ¾ of a turn the first time.... I thought I had it too on the second try. I didn't drive far enough, and I loctite'd the threaded pin from the steering shaft to the input shaft in. That'll be fun for me tomorrow. Getting that u-joint lined up and slid on the shaft was aggravating. Pretty tight tolerances and it has to be lined up well to go together.
I had these guys do it. They're in North Dakota somewhere. I shipped it last Friday, and got it back today.
Mounting it to the frame was actually easier than taking it off. Now I know to loosen all of the bolts kinda at the same time, and to use a ratcheting box end wrench.
It drives differently. Like the initial effort to turn the wheel is higher. I'm betting it'll wear in a bit, and that'll go away.
It bled immediately too. I lifted the front wheels off the ground and turned the wheel stop to stop 4-5 times, and when I started it, no groaning or whine. I frequently had a whine like it was burping air before. Got me as to why, but I'm guessing a crap seal somewhere.
Apparently, getting the steering shaft clocked to the input shaft is way too hard for me to do correctly.
I did it twice
and it's still off one spline. That's annoying. Almost as annoying as it being off almost ¾ of a turn the first time.... I thought I had it too on the second try. I didn't drive far enough, and I loctite'd the threaded pin from the steering shaft to the input shaft in. That'll be fun for me tomorrow. Getting that u-joint lined up and slid on the shaft was aggravating. Pretty tight tolerances and it has to be lined up well to go together.
- Thread starter
- #513
Also ordered everything to go through the front axle on the 80. It sounds like crap, and a axle seal is bad, so I'm getting moly grease in my differential fluid. That feels like an October project.
- Thread starter
- #514
Can the roll bar be removed without pulling the top?
I feel like the answer is no, but I've been wrong before.
I'm kicking around pulling the rear seat frames, and roll bar and getting them painted this winter. I'm slightly concerned about pulling them, the tops of the rear fender wells are pretty rusty, and I'm might cause some damage in the process before that gets proper fixed.
I feel like the answer is no, but I've been wrong before.
I'm kicking around pulling the rear seat frames, and roll bar and getting them painted this winter. I'm slightly concerned about pulling them, the tops of the rear fender wells are pretty rusty, and I'm might cause some damage in the process before that gets proper fixed.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Probably. You may have to remove a bolt or 2 or all of them where the rear support bars meet the main hoop so the back support bars can either be removed or folded in towards the main hoop.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
I think you can - if factory roll bar - they are 3 pieces - when I referb'ed my seat belts... the bolts were rusted in pretty good and Kroil had its work cut out. I've been studying them on how to swap once mine come back from powder coating.
I am going to replace my roll bars with the right one so that I can drive without the top (there is a bracket to hold the seat belt and I don't remember what year that started if driving sans roof is important to you).
I was going to take the pads off and remove the roll bar over the driver jump seat, (remove the the bolts in the fender and at the connecting brace/roll bar behind the driver) - rinse and repeat. then remove the last bar behind both seats.
I'd try that vs the 20K bolts holding the roof on if you have't worked those bolts yet - I smoked 3 of them trying to remove my roof.
let me look for a picture -
found it. can see the three roll bars and brackets that hold them together. 2 small ones first.
And depending on your timing - maybe back up on the 10th for another Twins game if you need someone to stare.
I am going to replace my roll bars with the right one so that I can drive without the top (there is a bracket to hold the seat belt and I don't remember what year that started if driving sans roof is important to you).
I was going to take the pads off and remove the roll bar over the driver jump seat, (remove the the bolts in the fender and at the connecting brace/roll bar behind the driver) - rinse and repeat. then remove the last bar behind both seats.
I'd try that vs the 20K bolts holding the roof on if you have't worked those bolts yet - I smoked 3 of them trying to remove my roof.
let me look for a picture -
found it. can see the three roll bars and brackets that hold them together. 2 small ones first.
And depending on your timing - maybe back up on the 10th for another Twins game if you need someone to stare.
- Thread starter
- #517
I figured it'd have to be split into three pieces. Looking at the picture, and thinking about it, that should pivot and rotate out the back doors no sweat.
(I say that, right before busting out 3 of the windows....)
(I say that, right before busting out 3 of the windows....)
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
You can take out the roll bar in one piece with the top on. I did this years ago to paint the interior. Remove all the tub bolts and jump seats, then fold the rear radius parts into the main hoop , pick a side and pull the main hoop out the back. It's tight but it does come out.
- Thread starter
- #519
That makes sense too.
It'll be coming out for a repaint and since it's out I might as well drill and tap light mounts, and punch a hole to run the wiring through the roll bar as well
So out in pieces makes as much sense as anything.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Drill and tap what? the rollbar?
