I also have a Lock-n-Roll and I'm not sure if it is DOT certified. My trailer has a removable tongue so when on the road change it with a ball hitch it should take only a few minutes. But lets hope that the Lock-n-roll is Dot cert. LOL.. How do we find out?
My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter REZARF
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- Thread starter
- #422
Steel 14ga for the floors, 16ga everywhere else.
- Thread starter
- #423
I didn't see a DOT anything stamped into it, it has some numbers but they are for a patent. You might contact Lock-n-roll for clairity. I don't really care
I didn't see a DOT anything stamped into it, it has some numbers but they are for a patent. You might contact Lock-n-roll for clairity. I don't really care
No joke.
Its not like your truck, my truck, or any of our other cruiser buddies are anywhere near DOT compliant.
I won't make any nutsert jokes, but lets get going on some fab!!! Give me a ring.
I'm still planning on getting one of these hitches, but DOT is big out here as trailers get pulled by roving DOT pa St Troopers checking trailer reg. and for lighting, inspection etc. I contacted the manufacturer several times but got no reply as of yet. When I do I'll post it. I guess when I put the tongue of my trailer together I'll make it easy to swap out a dot compliant ball hitch for the highway.
It would just be easier if it were dot,,
Now I want pics of the progress..
I was going to work on the my trailer this weekend but its outside,, and we had 4 inches of snow,, high winds and then it dropped into the single digit temps.. -4 this morning.. So until I can clear room inside mine wont be getting too much accomplished,, so,, as I said I need pics of yours!
Steve
It would just be easier if it were dot,,
Now I want pics of the progress..
I was going to work on the my trailer this weekend but its outside,, and we had 4 inches of snow,, high winds and then it dropped into the single digit temps.. -4 this morning.. So until I can clear room inside mine wont be getting too much accomplished,, so,, as I said I need pics of yours!
Steve
Mig Splatter
I have tried welding with both the straight CO2 and the Argon/CO2 mix. I do see less splatter with the mixed gas - but still get some splatter.
If you leave your rails uncoated on the inside, just make sure not to seal the tubes completely and provide a way for water to get out. Think of it like a boat trailer - The rails are either fully boxed and sealed OR C-Channel to drain the water.
Trailer looks good! Anxious to see it skinned!
I have tried welding with both the straight CO2 and the Argon/CO2 mix. I do see less splatter with the mixed gas - but still get some splatter.
If you leave your rails uncoated on the inside, just make sure not to seal the tubes completely and provide a way for water to get out. Think of it like a boat trailer - The rails are either fully boxed and sealed OR C-Channel to drain the water.
Trailer looks good! Anxious to see it skinned!
kabota19
KE7SBT
splatter
I have had good luck using stargon (from Oxarc: O2, CO2, AR) turned up slightly, a lot less splatter for me atleast. Has worked very well for me when welding outside with a slight breeze. According to Oxarc Star Blend - Oxarc it is used more for 3/16 + but I have had very good results welding 14, 16 and 18 Ga steel with it (combined with smaller dia wire) and the anti splatter spray, dont coat the tip with the spray though, use the nozzle/tip dip stuff to keep it clean. Just my 2 cents
good luck with the sheet metal
brandon
I have had good luck using stargon (from Oxarc: O2, CO2, AR) turned up slightly, a lot less splatter for me atleast. Has worked very well for me when welding outside with a slight breeze. According to Oxarc Star Blend - Oxarc it is used more for 3/16 + but I have had very good results welding 14, 16 and 18 Ga steel with it (combined with smaller dia wire) and the anti splatter spray, dont coat the tip with the spray though, use the nozzle/tip dip stuff to keep it clean. Just my 2 cents
good luck with the sheet metal
brandon
- Thread starter
- #428
You're right, if the hitch was DOT approved it would make things easier, but the fj40 isn't even rated to tow... which is kinda funny. I am going to go for it and if I get pulled over deal with it then.
Drew
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As far as DOT for the Lock-n-Roll, a dude talks about it over on the portal as a hitch connection not having to be DOT in the USA.
Scroll down to the bottom of page 1.
Trailer hitch connection? - Expedition Portal Forums
Oh yeah and we have one and it works great.
Scroll down to the bottom of page 1.
Trailer hitch connection? - Expedition Portal Forums
Oh yeah and we have one and it works great.
RE the welding splatter, i have been welding lately with the gas turned up 30% over normal and have way less problem and the welds look smoother to boot.
Worth a try
Worth a try
lx450landcruiser
Moderator
RE the welding splatter, i have been welding lately with the gas turned up 30% over normal and have way less problem and the welds look smoother to boot.
Worth a try
also you can just buy a can of PAM and give the area a quick coat works great
mike
PAM or splatter spray will make it easy to remove but he's talking about minimizing it to begin with. Adjusting gas flow and using appropriate amounts of juice will give good burn-in AND reduce splatter.
.02
Ed
- Thread starter
- #433
Well, after a long day of tacking and welding in my sheet metal on my trailers front box, I am at a cross roads.
I am trying to figure out if I should weld up my sheet metal, or rivet it onto the tube frame.
Pro's of welding:
1.Faster than the riveting.
2. Cleaner look than the rivets, easier to paint and prep.
3. I don't have to buy a kerbillion rivets.
Con's of welding:
1. It is too cold to get my weld through primer to set up correctly.
2. Instructions call for 70*, and there is no way I can get my garage that warm, and my test piece failed miserably and came out a mess.
3. Can't get any rust proofing between the panels since its too cold to prime.
4. Controling the heat and warping issues.
Pro's of Riveting:
1. I can use Sikaflex and rivets and get a super strong, water-tight bond.
2. Easy, and I don't have to worry about warpage.
3. Easier to readjust/repair/modify down the road.
Con's of Riveting:
1. I loose the smooth look of the welded steel.
2. I have drill about a gazillion holes.
3. I have to buy about a gazillion rivets.
4. Could be messy with the adhesive/sealant.
I am open to your thoughts... fire away!
Thanks!
I am trying to figure out if I should weld up my sheet metal, or rivet it onto the tube frame.
Pro's of welding:
1.Faster than the riveting.
2. Cleaner look than the rivets, easier to paint and prep.
3. I don't have to buy a kerbillion rivets.
Con's of welding:
1. It is too cold to get my weld through primer to set up correctly.
2. Instructions call for 70*, and there is no way I can get my garage that warm, and my test piece failed miserably and came out a mess.
3. Can't get any rust proofing between the panels since its too cold to prime.
4. Controling the heat and warping issues.
Pro's of Riveting:
1. I can use Sikaflex and rivets and get a super strong, water-tight bond.
2. Easy, and I don't have to worry about warpage.
3. Easier to readjust/repair/modify down the road.
Con's of Riveting:
1. I loose the smooth look of the welded steel.
2. I have drill about a gazillion holes.
3. I have to buy about a gazillion rivets.
4. Could be messy with the adhesive/sealant.
I am open to your thoughts... fire away!
Thanks!
If it's a"one or the other" type of decision I would go with welding. rather than rivets. Have you though of renting a heated space to do the welding in? Anyone you know have a place thats heated or work at a place with a heated shop?
I've always believed that welds are tronger than bolts or rivets. Besides, you've done such a smokin good job so far, why change now!?
I've always believed that welds are tronger than bolts or rivets. Besides, you've done such a smokin good job so far, why change now!?
Buy/rent one of those monster space heaters, Rivits are a pain to remove as well, still have to drill or grind them out to replace. I like the welding idea better for the strength, look and duribility.
Exiled
SILVER Star
I'm not a big fan of rivets, I think welding would ultimately prove a better solution, and you can still seal all welded edges with seam sealer before primer and paint.
lx450landcruiser
Moderator
ive been debating this myself have you looked into the 3m double stick stuff? i know it sounds dumb but major buildings are using it to place panels on building and its designed to be water tight, and resistant to the elements. would be a quick easy way to skin a trailer
I've been watching this build since it started.
I'm with Exiled......keep the welding. You'll have a much better looking and stronger finished product.
Also, think about how rivets can work their way loose. Trailers take a BEATING, much more than the vehicle doing the towing.
One thing you may consider, is to take a small blow torch (Coleman propane type) and warm up the metal....I'm here in south Denver, and I often have to warm up the steel before I take the MIG to it!
.02
Jeff
I'm with Exiled......keep the welding. You'll have a much better looking and stronger finished product.
Also, think about how rivets can work their way loose. Trailers take a BEATING, much more than the vehicle doing the towing.
One thing you may consider, is to take a small blow torch (Coleman propane type) and warm up the metal....I'm here in south Denver, and I often have to warm up the steel before I take the MIG to it!
.02
Jeff
- Thread starter
- #439
I haven't decided yet, I am getting on the phone with Sikaflex in the morning to see what they recommend. I like the idea of welding, it may proove faster and stronger... however, with the right adhesive, it may make more sense to rivet. I am riveting some parts on either way.
Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted.
On a side note it took 4 hours today to drill 6 holes to get the floor right, and it still isn't finished... been one of those days.
Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted.
On a side note it took 4 hours today to drill 6 holes to get the floor right, and it still isn't finished... been one of those days.
you know the saying hine sight is 20/20, well i could not tell from the pic for 100 percent certain, do you have any bends on your sheet metal, then you could just over lap the bend and weld it in. Or is the plan to weld the flat sheet metal to the tubing and get a seal that way. sorry if i missed this earlier. cheers.
cheers chappy
cheers chappy
