My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (6 Viewers)

[REZARF]

It was a bummer to have to weld off those pretty welds, I am starting to get the hang of making them look decent as well as being strong.

Here is an overall shot, I was playing with the hoop for the rack on the little box, trying to figure out how I want to mount it.

 

[REZARF]

Next up, I added some chain "loops" to the draw bar. I got the tabs from some race shop that builds race cars, and they came stamped to size, with the hole already in them, and they are nice and beefy .25" thick... all for practically nothing. It seems silly but man do the little things like that save time!

I started out by finding the correct angle to mount them at (welding magnet angle ) then tacked them into place. I decided not to hang them straight down as they might start to catch on rocks, then I thought about mounting them on the sides, and I could just see my knees bleeding already , so part-way down and part sideways is where they ended up. I will smooth out the edges with the flap disk to avoid any unwanted injuries... hmmm, is there such a thing as wanted injuries?

 

[REZARF]

Another artistic, weld bead shot...

...getting there, but the CO2 I am running still yields quite a bit of spatter, any tips

 

[REZARF]

These were pretty fun to make, I decided way back in the original design stages that I could turn both frame rails into storage for long items like poles and things, so I made little doors to close the gaps today.

I took some piano hinge that I have for the side boxes and cut off about 2" for each door. Then I drilled 3 holes in each side of the hinge to "spot" weld the door and frame to. After tacking them in place then fitting them up on the trailer... all the while trying to avoid warping the 1/16" material, I burned them in a little at a time until they were completely welded on.

I looks like they have a big gap in the pic, but they are square and the fit really nicely. I will add a gasket to them after they get painted to seal them up tight.

 

[REZARF]

And here are the itsy-bitsy adjustable draw latches that will keep them closed and rattle free! I will likely use a linchpin to keep them from popping open.

 

[REZARF]

Last one for today, I thought I would share about a cool little product that I have bought a few days ago. It goes by a few different names usually rivet nuts or nutserts. I got one at my local hardware store. You insert it just like a rivet, but you have a special insert that leaves not only a rivet, but also a threaded insert so you can fasten a bolt to them. All my research I have done says they are super secure once installed and I yanked on this one pretty hard and had no issues...

Pretty cool tool this will help mount all the little things on the trailer that need to get bolted down, like electrical, little shelves, things like that.

 

[REZARF]

Here is a good side shot to show off how it works a bit.

 

[REZARF]

And just in case you missed it!...

Got a call today from my friend and...

My sheet metal is READY!

Picking it up tomorrow, I will post up pics of the laser cut and sheared goodness, but it is my one year anniversary... so don't expect too much

 

[spressomon]

Drew,
Once again you posted some nice pics and ideas too! I like your idea for using the box channel frame for poles storage, etc! And you will really like the Loc n Roll hitch...a very slick design indeed!

I too would like to know if there is a technique to reducing/eliminating MIG spatter. I've tried the anti-spatter spray...sprayed the tip/nozzle area, sprayed the work, etc. but didn't totally eliminate the spatter. Or is this just a fact with MIG?

 

[REZARF]

Drew,
Once again you posted some nice pics and ideas too! I like your idea for using the box channel frame for poles storage, etc! And you will really like the Loc n Roll hitch...a very slick design indeed!

I too would like to know if there is a technique to reducing/eliminating MIG spatter. I've tried the anti-spatter spray...sprayed the tip/nozzle area, sprayed the work, etc. but didn't totally eliminate the spatter. Or is this just a fact with MIG?

I have heard c25 is the way to go, but I have yet to run it, since I have two CO2 tanks already. Sometimes I get a lot more spatter than other times, but I haven't figured out the deal as to why yet.

 

[spressomon]

I have heard c25 is the way to go, but I have yet to run it, since I have two CO2 tanks already. Sometimes I get a lot more spatter than other times, but I haven't figured out the deal as to why yet.

Ditto on the variable spatter thing.

MIG Welding Gas Comparison

This is an excerpt from the link above:
"Conclusions
The choice of shielding gas made a lot of difference to the ease of welding. Argon/CO2 mix or Argoshield result in easier and neater welds given a free choice of gas, but a MIG welder can be used with CO2 (pub gas) if you can put up with increased spatter and a less steady arc."

I just read on the Miller site excessive spatter can be cased by too high voltage...

 

[J-man]

And here are the itsy-bitsy adjustable draw latches that will keep them closed and rattle free! I will likely use a linchpin to keep them from popping open.

that my friend, is proof of crazy amounts of detail. WOW. Lookin real nice drew.

 

[REZARF]

that my friend, is proof of crazy amounts of detail. WOW. Lookin real nice drew.

Thanks J-man, when are we going to see the next round of mods on your little trailer? Did you fix that upper bar yet?

Drew

 

[gavman]

Looking really great, especially like the use of the frame for the fishing poles etc.
Do you have a part # or supplier for the nut inserts, they are a very nice idea.
What does the tool to use them look like?
Any idea how to prevent corrosion inside the box frame if you are painting the trailer and not hot dipping it.
I'm sure you thought of something judging by the rest of the trailer

 

[REZARF]

Looking really great, especially like the use of the frame for the fishing poles etc.
Do you have a part # or supplier for the nut inserts, they are a very nice idea.
What does the tool to use them look like?

Any idea how to prevent corrosion inside the box frame if you are painting the trailer and not hot dipping it.
I'm sure you thought of something judging by the rest of the trailer

Good questions, I will try to take a shot of the part that does the nutserts, it looks like a rivet gun.

As for protecting the inside of the doors, we'll have to see, I have thought of few things, I might not coat them at first and see how they hold up, they will be sealed from the elements so I am not too worried about them.

Thanks!

 

[Gregny]

Drew, your trailer is coming out awesome. You've got a lot of great ideas keep up the great work your one of my inspirations for my trailer build..............'

 

[REZARF]

Drew, your trailer is coming out awesome. You've got a lot of great ideas keep up the great work your one of my inspirations for my trailer build..............'

Thanks man! Be sure to start a build up thread on the forum when you get going.

 

[REZARF]

Look at what I got today!

Let the assembly begin!

 

[Acadia]

Are you using Steel or Aluminum for the skin? what is the thickness?

 

[KY854RUN]

Those lock-n-roll's dot cert'ed?? I really like them but out here in the eastern soviet State of Pa the Dot St troppers do check things like that. I'm thinking about putting one on my new build. Would really confuse the guys that steel trailers.. wouldnt know how to hook up with only half that hitch!..
Steve

I too would like to know if the Lock-N-Roll is DOT certified?