My Mini-truck Power Steering Install (1 Viewer)

[Romer]

I decided to install the mini-truck power steering mod because it looked like the easiest and did not require welding or other major modifications. Being a 2 banana mechanic, that was important to me. First choice was to gather all the pieces:

1) Power Steering Gear Box from a mini-truck or 4runner 1979-1985.
2) Saginaw Power Steering Pump
3) Mounting Brackets for Gear Box and Pump
4) Pully for Pump
5) Hoses and clamps

After a lot of searching on Mud I selected the brackets form William Dorry. The brackets for the pump and gear box were $180.

I bought the Saginaw Pump from Rockauto.com on the internet. It’s PN# 206823.

Per Bill’s suggestion, I used a machine pulley that is a little smaller in diameter so the RPM on the pump increases a little. These are Martins Parts. Pulley- 1-B-50-SDS, and Bushing- SDS ¾. I bought these from Orion Manufacturing. The contact is Ladis at 1-908-558-1600.

I bought the Gear Box from the Yota yard (Denver Junk Yard) and it came with the nipple (for return line) and the High Pressure Hose.

I bought 3/8” fuel line for the return hose.

 

[Romer]

Step 1:
Remove the Drivers side Fender. Man its dirty and looks like Crap!

 

[Romer]

Step 2:
You need to remove the Pitman Arm from the linkage. At the end of the rod, there is a cotter pin. You probably can’t see it with Mud and grease. Once you get the cotter pin out, use a regular head screw driver and screw out the plate. There is then another plate (I used a rubber mallet to move it by hitting the end. Then there is a spring and then a plate that goes over the ball of the Pitman Arm. Having a magnet here is helpful. Note: if you have to use the same Pitman ARM, use a puller to remove it. My new gearbox came with one so I did not need to do this.

 

[Romer]

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts holding the plate at the end of the Gear Box to the end of the Steering Column. Then remove the bolts holding the gearbox and remove the old Gear box working the Pitman Arm out of the linkage.

 

[Romer]

Step 4:
Use a grinder to cut off the rivits holding the old gear box plate to the frame. Even after doing this, I still had to drill holes to get what was left of the rivets out of the hole. This step took me longer than any other step and takes patience, but its not hard. I also removed my smog pump so I could use the same pulley. My rig was desmogged when I bought it except for the pump.

 

[Romer]

Step 5:
Here I took the opportunity to clean up and paint a bit since I may never have access here in a long time. I like to clean up when I am in a certain area. This step is optional

 

[Romer]

Step 6:
Sit back and have a Beer while the paint dries.

 

[Romer]

Step 7:
Bolt the new Power Steering Gearbox Bracket to the Frame using the holes were you removed the rivets.

 

[Romer]

Step 8:
Install the Pump Bracket to the engine mount per Bill Dorrey’s instructions. Pretty easy and straight forward. Mount the Saginaw Pump to the Bracket (Need to provide own bolts). I think they were 3/8” coarse thread. Add the adjusting bracket between the front of the pump and the bolt on the water pump. Make sure you sue the bolt at the 5 oclock position.

 

[Romer]

Step 9:
Remove the Gear Box side steering column plate from the old box and install it on the new box. Set the gear box on the mounting plate and use the two screws to re-attach the Gearbox side with the steering column side. Set the gear box were it looks like it is lined up with the steering column and in a good spot. This is were you mark and/or drill the holes (Have to drill your own) to mount the gearbox to the plate. Either drill in place or remove the gear box and drill. I drilled in place and got one bolt tight before I drilled the others to make sure they all lined up.

 

[Romer]

Step 10:
Install the pitman arm if not already there and use the reverse of step 2 to get it back in the linkage. Note: You may need to do this before bolting the gearbox down depending on how much room you have.

Step 11:
Use a piece of string to measure how long the fan belt should be. Add 1-2” to compensate for the thickness of the belt. I also picked up a cap for the PS Pump as it did not come with one.

Step 12:
Install the 3/8” return line using clamps at both sides. Then install the High Pressure line (Order doesn’t matter). Fill the Pump with Fluid.

 

[Romer]

Step 13:
Start-up the engine and turn the wheel, add fluid, turn the wheel some more. This is how you bleed the system. Check for leaks and if everything is OK, re-install the Fender.
Step 14:
Take it for a test drive and then repeat step 6.

Now your done! If I could do it, most anyone could. It took me a long day, but I stopped to clean up and paint as I went.

 

[Pinion]

Great job on the install and pics! It should help out a lot of people in the future.

 

[Dianna]

Technical Link!

Awesome post Romer! I didn't think I could install power steering but with your pictures and directions... makes it seem easy! I think this post should be a tech link!

 

[Spanky1]

Great Job Ken, I have Bills brackets and will be doing this conversion when I start my project. Thanks for the pics. Stan

 

[Advent]

Is the top of the frame where the bracket bolts flat?

I'm hoping to do this at the same time as a 2" body lift, and it looks like some 2x2" box tubing might space it upwards nicely.

 

[Romer]

Is the top of the frame where the bracket bolts flat?

I'm hoping to do this at the same time as a 2" body lift, and it looks like some 2x2" box tubing might space it upwards nicely.

Not sure I understand, the top is flat as shown in the picture, its is angled as part of the frame.

 

[wesintl]

Nice and Ken wins by a land slide

 

[nuclearlemon]

power steerings' kinda cushy isn't it? best mod i ever did to a 40...can't believe i survived three without it.

 

[wesintl]

maybe he'll start wheelin the 40 more..