Builds My LC 80 thread. (4 Viewers)

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Someone asked me about the rad bolts being different and the fact they break off when trying to replace the rad, ask me how I know :mad:, anyway I cannot remember who it was but Toyota do not call the top fixings bolts, they are called 'collars' a sort of bolt integral with a collar, the number is 1654961020 and you wll need 2.....the nuts that go with the collars have to be purchased separate and the number is 90179-08025 and again x 2 these are simply called 'nuts'.

I hope that helps.........whoever?

regards

Dave
 
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So the list starts to shorten, I mentioned in the earlier thread that it appears the PO took out the leather and fitted cloth which is nice for the cold weather. Well there were two switches to heat the seats and looking at the bowl of spaghetti that was left under the seats because the cloth does not have all the electric goodies.......or so I thought I decided to dive in. So struggling to get around the heater under the drivers side (that will be gone soon) I eventually managed matching like with like plugs under the seats and DA DA....heating pads in both seats are working warm and hot (I really did needed to get this done living in the south of Spain :D) and the electric lumber support also works as well. When I purchased the car the PO did say the batteries were playing up and I wonder if he disconnected them perhaps because of accidental switching on and killing the already weak batteries?

EDIT: The resealed windscreen withstood a commercial jet washer (nothing like a real test) no leaks whatsoever :bounce2::bounce:....tick that one off!

Either way it's sorted and all working ok, petrol tank sender should be here on Monday along with new axle seals....again.

regards

Dave
 
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So today sees the fitment of the new fuel gauge sender unit. One or two issues to note, the screws on the old unit despite no rust or evidence of thread lock ect the heads just rounded off, two screws on the wiring and the two retainer screws that secure the sender to the pickup pipe flange all were just super tight and the metal super soft?

Toyota must be aware of this because the box contains a packet of new screws:)

The other thing to notice is the float arm is shorter than the original, don't get me wrong not a couple of thou but a good 1/2 inch shorter :meh:

Now because I have been running around with no gauge since I bought the car I used the low level light along with a can in the boot to back up my mileage calculations. I knew if I filled the tank and then drove 500 miles the light would be on about 10 miles either side of that depending on driving conditions/style since the last fill up.

I had covered 380 miles up to today so I thought if the gauge showed I had about 1/4 of a tank or thereabouts I would be happy, of course this did not happen, the gauge was pegged at empty! I even stuck a ruler in there and had a depth of fuel of 1 & 3/8" so defintely not empty, soooooooo I bent the arm down a little so the float would be in the fuel and this gave me an indication of 1/4 of a tank. As the low fuel light sensor was more or less in the same place as the old unit I did not adjust this knowing that I have run 50 miles with the light on once when I could not find a garage open, ya just gotta love spain.

I would like the light to come on as the gauge just hits the bottom of the empty mark so I may have to 'fiddle' a bit. In the meantime the spare fuel can will be kept on board until I trust the accuracy.

1 :banana: job and no special tools needed, I'm off now to edit the 'to do' list at the beginning of this thread :bounce:

regards

Dave
 
Dave:

Do you have any need for a full time LC mechanic in Spain?

I'd be personally willing to come out and be your LC mechanic and live in Spain (esp. if that pool is on your property and you have access to cute Spanish women).

I have a great parts source as well! :lol: ;)

Nice work here on the build up.
-onur
 
Dave:

Do you have any need for a full time LC mechanic in Spain?

Nope I'm afraid not, the crisis here has really tightened people belts but rest assured your first on the list!

I'd be personally willing to come out and be your LC mechanic and live in Spain (esp. if that pool is on your property and you have access to cute Spanish women).

The pool belongs to family freinds, the women are cute but just rock the boat and find out about the 'cute' latino tempers :eek: and you will soon change your tune

I have a great parts source as well! :lol: ;)

Nice work here on the build up.
-onur

many thanks

regards

Dave
 
Just a little post for Mshelby because he likes to be reminded about my HDJ80, since the tank repair my diesel has just returned 27.80 MPG :p

Thats mixed driving, I really must try to slow down a little and see if I can hit the 30 mark.......you know......just for fun :D

I might consider giving it a tune up later in the year that might help these terrible consumption figures :grinpimp:

regards

Dave
 
Right today saw me pull out the birfs again and replace the axle oil seals for the second time in two months? Why they leaked I really do not know, during the original install everything was checked and on one side I replaced a birf and spindle bush and all else appeared ok. Well it has been done again so hopefully that has been put to bed, the list on post number 1 has been duly updated.

Last Monday saw me picking up a nice shiny blanking plate and 'O' ring for the ACSD which will be removed sometime next week.


regards

Dave
 
OK, today was pretty overcast so I got to grips with removing the ACSD, anyone contemplating this go for it, it's a doddle!
I will not bore you with pictures as it has been done before with much better quality pictures than my old SONY can muster.

In a nutshell:

Engine cool, link the two hoses that run from the engine to the ACSD, I just run one piece from top to bottom on the block as it looks tidier and less chance of leaks.

Next I removed the idle up valve for the air con (two allen head screws) to make it easier to see what I was doing.

Next the three allen head screws holding the ACSD were taken out and about 1/2 a cup of fuel come out.

Fitted the new blanking plate with a new 'O' ring and I then used the longer idle up screws to hold the plate on.

I then fitted the air con idle up with the two shorter screws from the ACSD.

This will give you better thread perch on both parts.

Pumped the plunger until it went hard.....no not that plunger the one in the engine bay :grinpimp:.....thats it and then topped up the coolant again about 1/2 a cup.

Cranked the engine and it fired straight away, this job took about half an hour to do and that includes cleaning my tools and putting them away.

So what can I tell you so far? The ticking noise I had from the pump has GONE! That's right the fast tick tick tick that was always there when cold has left the building, so that has to be good.

The idle is still rock steady at 600 rpm unless of course the arse is pointing down hill and then it is slower https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/371858-odd-idle.html so no change there.

The temperature outside when doing the job was about 28 - 30 degrees so the device should not have been active anyway, tommorow I will see how it starts when it is a bit cooler, the garage is sub level but it is still about 18 - 20 so not much of a cold test but the oil will be thicker adding drag to the engine so I will be able to see how much it affects the idle.

As my fuel mileage is pretty consistent i.e. I never get less than 26 mpg :D and not quite reached 28 mpg I can monitor that since the change along with the fact that my car never seems to smoke no matter how I drive it? I know the emissions test in the UK was something like 0.95 out of an allowable 3.0 so no problems there.

As I intend to get rid of the 24v starter system I need to watch for any wayward cold start moments so will be watching it pretty close so until then,

regards

Dave
 
Congrats on the new 80,, can you give more info on removing ACSD
Thanks,, Al

Hi and thanks, what info do you require? More about what the ACSD is/does or more info about it's removal and why it is removed?

regards

Dave
 
Dave
I presume ACSD is the cold start thingy dont suppose you have a pic

Al
 
Dave
I presume ACSD is the cold start thingy dont suppose you have a pic

Al

Yes your right, it is the Automatic Cold Start Device, it alters the timing and lifts the revs a little when the engine is cold to make it easier to start. They tend to wear at high mileages and start making noises, these noises always seem to precede (by many miles/months) the device breaking inside the pump resulting in a breakdown along with a bill for a pump repair/rebuild.

I have attached a pic which was given up by another MUD member (all the clever people are on here) and you can see the ACSD ringed in red.

Hope it come up this time, I had to 'fiddle' with it a little to get it to post.

EDIT: Nope give me a minute and I will look for another pic as this one will not play ball.

Even better, this thread by 'Splittilps' is with pics https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/389772-acsd-removed.html


regards

Dave
 
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Well just an update on the ACSD removal, if my calculations are correct I am now seeing 30+ mpg (30.71 to be exact)! Our normally quiet little town has been invaded by holiday makers so I have had to take more torturous routes around the outside and may have even seen slower overall speeds this month so this may be considered wishful thinking at the moment. The town will not return to normal until about the first week in September so I will get back to you a short while after then with more 'real world' figures. An interesting point is that prior to removal and to date the temps have only got hotter and the ASCD was not engaging as the engine was starting 'warm'. If this is the case (and my fuel figures are correct) it would be fair to assume at this juncture that the timing was not correct on my car and in fact may still not be, removing the ACSD has actually brought my timing nearer to optimum so it is possible that further adjustments will net a further improvement in consumption? When I get some time and it cools down a touch (45+ at the moment) I will stick a dial gauge on the pump and check it out.

Again FWIW the car starts and behaves exactly has it has always done since I purchased it in March earlier this year so again it would be fair to assume the ACSD has never worked since I have owned it, a real big benefit is the annoying tick tick tick that was there particularly when cold has now gone!! This was always very noticable when driving out of the underground garage area as it echoed off the walls.

regards

Dave
 
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Well today I drained out the engine oil and changed the filter, I also drained and refilled both axles and gearbox/transfer box (second time on axles/gearboxes since I have owned it and all seems to be nice and clean, I also replaced the seal on the gearbox where the speedo drive is fitted, slight leak so nipped in the bud nice and early. Mileage now 189,000 as near as dammit, so 5000 ish miles have passed since I did the big end bearings https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/378409-beb-just-observations.html#post5467567 which is about 15 weeks ago, next week I have to cover about 1000 miles in three days just back and forth to various airports, August can be a bit hard on the car 51 degrees last week as well! Considering this is pretty much my normal running around I can reckon on doing somewhere in the region of 20,000 miles in the first year of ownership.

What else can I report? Well...er.......nothing, it starts, it goes, I switch it off, no if's and no buts, brilliant!

For reference, today filled to brim, shook air out and eventually got in 84.90 litres @ 1.092 euros per litre = 92.71 euros, . Mileage showing at fill up 189294

EDIT: Follow up fuel figures, 18/08/2010 28.80 MPG at last check.

regards

Dave
 
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Meant to add, I did replace the speedometer drive seal in the transfer gearbox, I mentioned a few months back, the seal (OEM 96711-24030) had a tiny leak, as you can see from the pictures it was not even a drip it just made the area around the speedo drive damp.

Any way it is a doddle to do and of course I did it whilst the oil was out! Just undo the 12mm bolt holding the small retainer tab in place, the bolt has a captive washer but the retainer is free to drop in the oil container below........yeh I did :doh: anyway, once the bolt is out it is an easy job to slide the drive out in fact I did not even disconnect the cable. Old oil seal prised off and new one put in place, quick smear of clean gearbox oil and slid the drive back into place, note the tab has a small slot to enter on the drive flange, so it can only be fitted in one position.

Sorry if the pics are a bit minging, the flash has given up on my old camera, I have lightened them a little to help.

regards

Dave
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3.JPG
 
So, knocked out 500 miles in two days and now have a vibration! I am not into panicking and have no time to look at it until Saturday. I know all the usual places to check having been involved with cars for more years than I care to remember however, to save time and in case someone recognises the symptoms I will post them. Car is perfectly smooth until 60 - 65 mph, front left of bonnet start to vibrate up and down, slowly increase speed and vibration gets worse and the whole bonnet starts to vibrate. You can feel the vibration through the floor of the car and through the gearstick, there are no vibrations through the steering wheel whatsoever. Increase speed further and at about 90 mph car returns to glass smooth, bonnet stops shaking ect, the symptoms are repeatable and predictable. Car was serviced and all oils changed props greased and checked for play ect a few days ago (400 ish miles ago).

I did a quick check at the side of the motorway for bulges in tyres, loose wheel nuts, clean areas where I may have lost a balance weight ect from a safety point of view and found nothing amiss so carried on the journey at about 60 i.e. just under the start of the vibration. Nothing hanging under car ect, this is typical, only the other day I was bragging about how nothing goes wrong ect.....me and my big mouth! :mad:

It could be that the wheels (balanced about three months ago) were on the verge of being out of balance and the turn around of 500 miles in two days just brought them outside the limit. I have covered around 5500 - 6000 miles in that time so it will be my first port of call however I would have expected the steering wheel to transmit that information to me.

To save me time in pulling props and all the usual checks does anyone recognise these 80 symptoms and can shortcut my search pattern? The car at the moment is undergoing baselining and is stock including wheels and tyres.

Will get on it Saturday morning weather permitting as I have no long runs until Sunday so want to give it a once over before then.

EDIT: Just a thought, we had serious floods here yesterday (cars and a tractor washed out to sea ect) and the worse storms since records began, 51 degrees last week and now this? Anyway, I did have to cross a couple of ramblas (flood run off areas) which had flooded to get home after the first airport run. And the car was parked in the underground car park which had about 3" of water in it. Whilst I doubt there is a connection I am offering that as the only thing the car has had happen to it out of the ordinary since it was serviced.

Because the service turned out to be so routine and nothing need fixing I have just ordered my new air con condenser and drier and spent money on the old girl, bloody typical!

regards

Dave
 
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Well it's seems the wheels (or more correctly the tyres) have gone out of balance, this was done about three months ago and the car has covered a fair few miles with very little off road. The Cooper ST's appear to be wearing even ect and all but one balanced up real easy, the fourth was a PITA for the tyre guy. Anyway done another airport run this morning all is back nice and smooth again.

regards

Dave
 
This week saw the fitting of the new air conditoning condenser and I fitted a new dryer whilst I was in there. Just waiting to get it gassed up this week with a little luck. When I got the car you may recall the A/C condenser was missing? Well apart from the two pipes that connect to the condenser there was nothing else that I can see, I have seen some 80's that had an additional booster fan does anyone have any photo's of the stock setup with the fan? I have considered taking off the engine driven fan and fitting a couple of 'serious' electric fans at a later date, I will wait until the temp gauge mod is done so I can get baseline temperature with the standard setup.

Anyway, that's another thing off the list! :bounce::bounce2:

regards

Dave
 
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I know I have been away for awhile, moving homes and domestic strife brings a lot of headaches and uses up a lot of time. Tanque (Spanish for TANK) has been used as a removals van now on two separate occasions and I have had some work commitments to contend with. So the update is as follows, the ACSD removal still has not affected cold starting as the temps have started to fall and at the moment varying around the 5 -8 degrees C and set to get colder, the engine barely cranks a half turn before starting which is exactly how it was during the hot summer. The car will not be used for a couple of weeks over Xmas and New Year whilst I visit family in the UK along with the snow and -15C temps….brrrrr so it will have stood for quite awhile and be even colder on my return.

Fuel consumption is pretty much pegged at 30 MPG and the speedometer is now showing 195,000 miles so another oil change is due, that may have to wait until after Xmas and I do not have a lot of traveling to do with the car so am not too fussed. As is typical with these cars I have no problems to report and remain very pleased with the car overall.

Regards

Dave
 
Well the trip to the UK went as planned and I left Murcia with snow flurries and high winds! A sort of aclimatisation baptism feeling as we took off in preparation for the cold UK. Usual xmas festivities were indulged in and then I returned to Murcia a little under two weeks later. During this time the car was left outside a friends house and had not been touched, the aircraft captain had announced just before landing that the temps were 8 degrees so not too cold but it had been down to 3 degrees during the previous week, with jump leads at the ready I turned the key only to be greeted with the instant starting I have become accustomed too. Not even a full crank of the engine before it fired into life, so another nod for the ACSD removal.

This week I did notice my oil pressure gauge appeared a little lower than normal? I checked the oil which is still relatively clean and as I was about to go out to work I quickly pulled off the oil filter and threw a new mickey mouse one on as it was sitting in the garage. No difference so I am going to assume the oil pressure sensor is playing up, the amount we are talking about is less than a needle width but you know how fussy some of us car geeks are? I have an alternative gauge to try albeit electric so will give it a shot, other than that an oil change and of course a new OE filter is scheduled for next week.

Thanks for reading

regards

Dave
 
A bit late with this posting but the oil change did get done last week. Mileage was a little over 196,000 so a little over my normal 5000 mile changes. The oil had also started to go black so the new oil that went in was slightly discoloured within a few minutes of starting but no big deal. I will bring forward the next change so I can get the engine clean again inside. Only point to note was the OEM filter was CHEAPER than the copies (Mann and a brand I have never heard of) available at a local parts shop. OEM was 15.68 euros versus 18 plus at both outlets. The oil pressure has climbed back to more or less where it usually sits but I still need to get in there and check it out. Other than that I replaced the two battery terminals on the left hand battery due to the others starting to look minging with age. Nothing else to report other than the back brake pads will be due in the next few weeks and I will adjust the handbrake travel at the same time. As I now have the correct resistors (thanks Tony in AZ) I will also find some time to sort the lazy temperature gauge.

regards

Dave
 
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