Builds My HZJ77 Build

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Fully equipped rig! :clap:
What about your 75 pickup?:hmm:

Ended up selling it to buy a house. It came down to the 77 was a better fit for long term use for me. I do miss it at times. If I didn't have another cruiser it would have been the keeper


...via IH8MUD app
 
Just wondering if you have timed the injection pump with a dial indicator etc.?

The 1HZ sump capacity is high enough to run a centrifugal oil filter, have you considered one? The only question on the centrifugal filter would be the oil pump capacity as most of the filters are driven by oil pressure and there needs to be enough flow to spin the rotor in the filter and meet the engine's needs. I wouldn't run one on a 1HDT with stock BBs, due to the high calcium additive requirements of the BB shells, but the IDI 1HZ shouldn't have any issues from what I've read. Especially since you have replaced the BB shells.

A toilet paper bypass such as the Frantz would be another option, but you'd probably want two for an engine of that size.

Another option would be the Toyota 90915-30002 filter which is basically a normal full flow with an internal bypass valve and what amounts to 2/3 of a roll of toilet paper in the bottom. I bought a case of 10 from Toyota of Dallas for about $100. back in 2007 before I sold my 77.

Do you use a lubricity additive or are the IP seals suited to ULSD? At least one study has found biodiesel to be the best and I have definitely noticed smoother and quieter running in all the Toyota diesels I have had when running anything up to 100% BD. If you have the time and space to make your own the savings are impressive.
 
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Just wondering if you have timed the injection pump with a dial indicator etc.?

yes i bought the toyota SST and a mitotoyo indicator.

The 1HZ sump capacity is high enough to run a centrifugal oil filter, have you considered one? The only question on the centrifugal filter would be the oil pump capacity as most of the filters are driven by oil pressure and there needs to be enough flow to spin the rotor in the filter and meet the engine's needs. I wouldn't run one on a 1HDT with stock BBs, due to the high calcium additive requirements of the BB shells, but the IDI 1HZ shouldn't have any issues from what I've read. Especially since you have replaced the BB shells.

The thought has crossed my mind. I am not planning on running extended intervals with this truck.
In about 1000kms I will be switching to marine Amsoil 15w-40. The rotella 15-40 dino has been good but I can at least throw the best oil possible into the truck. I am sure the analysis's will come out slightly better and I do plan on testing the results.

A toilet paper bypass such as the Frantz would be another option, but you'd probably want two for an engine of that size.

Again like the question above I would never pay one of them off. Just going to run synthetic 15w-40.

Another option would be the Toyota 90915-30002 filter which is basically a normal full flow with an internal bypass valve and what amounts to 2/3 of a roll of toilet paper in the bottom. I bought a case of 10 from Toyota of Dallas for about $100. back in 2007 before I sold my 77.

I run that same filter and have since I imported the truck. I do buy my filters out of the states.
Price has went up recently.

Do you use a lubricity additive or are the IP seals suited to ULSD? At least one study has found biodiesel to be the best and I have definitely noticed smoother and quieter running in all the Toyota diesels I have had when running anything up to 100% BD. If you have the time and space to make your own the savings are impressive.

marine tc-w3 two stroke oil. I'm running higher than the test on the internet says. Roughly 128:1 opposed to the 200:1. About a year now running the higher ratio and no issues. I have been running two stroke since day one. I've dabbled into other additives but in the end I'm doing it for VE pump/injector lubirication. I will probably add one of these again for the winter: http://www.dieselservices.com/html/product/fuel-additives-management/additives/index.cfm
 
Trucks looking good mate
 
The centrifugal filters like the Spinner II are only about $300. The Frantz toilet paper filters you can pick up used for as little as $50. The 90915-30002 filter proves that Toyota did the homework on the toilet paper filters. If you're running those the only thing better would be the centrifugal filters. The bypass filters like the Frantz or the 90915-30002 will never get ahead of the engine's carbon output, but I've heard the centrifugal filters can. "Honey-coloured" oil in a 3B was the statement I heard, and the source was both reliable and independent. The HJ60s had a stock centrifugal filter for a year or two, but I don't know if they got to NA or not. If you study the matter you soon find out that the fix is in where centrifugal filters are concerned: too much money at stake to let the average Joe have one of those on his car! I guess Toyota was told to take them off and did.
 
I don't think I will bother ever doing a oil by pass or centrifuge.
Centrifuge is definitely the way to go in terms of keeping your oil free of contaminants.
I'll never truly pay off a system like that for the time that I will own this truck.
I'll just pay the premium for amsoil and change every 5000km
 
Slowly clearing the stack of truck parts and finally getting it on my truck.
Had a few days off and was itching to get the new injection parts on my truck.
I decided to splurge earlier on in the year for an upgraded 12mm XXi Industries injection pump and matched injectors.
It would have felt stupid to just do injectors when my current pump has ~172,000kms on it. The truck ran good but the injectors needed to be done. I decided to kill two birds with one stone as I would feel like an idiot to have to go through the pump in 50,000kms and have to get injectors matched at the same time, essentially doing injectors twice. Overall wasn't too hard of a job to do.

Intake manifold gaskets needed to be done, allowed for better access to the pump.
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VE Pump Puller
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Stock 10mm 1HZ pump with Boost Comp vs XXi 12mm 1HZ pump
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Installed
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Driving impressions so far is that the truck pulls SMOOTH and hard when it gets into boost. I have relatively untouched the pump in terms of tuning at this point (on my end) the fuel pin was set up good to begin with. It set very conservative at the moment (which is good). I will be looking at fine tuning it a little bit with a slightly modified profile and a cummins AFC spring. The truck has been running 20lbs of boost since the intercooler has been installed. EGTs are slightly cooler with this pump when driving around under load (hill pulls) and not any higher than the stock 10mm pump. Overall though there is definately more power from this pump and its noticeable. Slightly less responsive than before down low but there are multiple factors on why this could be. It really comes alive 2000rpm and pulls hard to 3000rpm (haven't taken it higher but if feels like it will keep going). Exhaust is very clean. I will be ordering an Innovate AFR gauge later on to tune a safe 22:1 AFR and get a really safe and reliable tune. Mark (TheBigBoy) has got over 200 rwhp out of the exact same pump running 22-23lbs of boost at 20:1 AFR (XXi Airbox, XXi Intercooler/plenum and Gturbo Badboy). It was previously tuned for 186 rwhp with no intake manifold with 22:1.

I'll report back about fuel economy, I need to get a few tanks in for some mixed driving results and ski hill runs. No long distance highway planned as of yet.

I tried putting a Racor r445 filter housing with a built in pump and a r45s (2 micron) diesel filter on in the spot of the factory fuel filter. Could not get the filter to prime for the life of me, even with the filter filled. Found out it was a faulty Racor. I am undecided at this point if I am still going to try and pursue the Racor route or just stick with the factory filter. I wanted a visual bowl and better filtration. Canada generally has very clean fuel and even my old fuel filters look very clean. My cold starts have improved with the new pump and injectors (i suspect it was the injectors that made the difference).
 
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Also took the time to run some new wiring for the new lights. I converted a set of Lightforce 240 XGT to 70W 6000k HID with a set of adapters from Straya and the 24v HID kit I had on the shelf from the past year. I couldn't figure out a clean way to convert my Warns or IPF 930s in a manner I liked so I found the Lightforces on mud. Also put a 20" 120w single row LED bar on top of the bull bar. All the wires are ran, but I am hoping to wire the two switches tomorrow in this location. I hope there is enough light.... I contemplated buying the 30" for on top.

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Is there a reason you couldn't tie your Light Force lights into your trucks high beams?
 
I want them on a switch and fully selectable.
There are many occasions where its nice to have accessory lighting being fully selectable.
In heavy snow, fog, or rain fall for example.
 
What 70 watt ballasts did you use?
 
The only thing I dislike about my HID converted Lightforces is the warm up time. Great lights otherwise, but in hindsight I would keep them halogen.
 
The only thing I dislike about my HID converted Lightforces is the warm up time. Great lights otherwise, but in hindsight I would keep them halogen.
X2
The HID's are great for off-road use but I don't care for them as a driving light. The halogens on my BJ74 however are fantastic as a driving light.
 
Very nice switch holder. Did you make that?

I'm planning to run a set of fogs and an led bar. Both with SPDT switches so they can be operated independently or automatically with the parking lights and high beams respectively.
 
Karter, Did these switches come with their respective lights or did you source them separately?
Thanks.....
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Switch holder was made from a hobby box. Thanks @gofast for the idea
I thought about doing SPDT switcheds. The switches are from OTRATTW.
 

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