Black O2 wires are the heater power - non-denominational.
Thanks for documenting this. Mine will happen this fall.
Thanks for documenting this. Mine will happen this fall.
paul dinapoli - H55 swap thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Paul DiNapoli
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
almost done with cross member mounts.
bought some 4x3 angle iron - relatively cheap.
source - East Side Steel
splash
the steel yard cut me 2 pieces 7.5" long. they charged $2.00 per cut...and the chunk of scrap 4x3 was more than I needed but was only $12 bucks...so i didn't argue.
here's the chunk of steel sitting on the end of the cross member. from underneath looking up at how it fits over the end.
traced that pattern and started cutting. hacksaw was clearly going to take too long, so I switched to cutting wheel on the angle grinder. worked well enough for rough shaping. then took it over to the grinder to clean it up.
once it was all shaped up - i drilled the holes to bolt it to the crossmember. this also helped hold it in place so I could drill 4 holes into the frame, then tap with 10mm x 1.0 fine pitch threads, and bolt it in.
the main reason I chose to drill and tap:
1 - trying to drill all the way through the frame and use long bolts to get through the whole frame means you'd run into the brake and fuel lines. relocate them? pass on that!
2 - weld em in. i wanted to do this...my friend helping out is a great welder but my garage power situation would have meant some house electrical and circuit breaker work.
3 - i could oxy weld em in myself...but then again - fire / gas lines - what could go wrong?
4 - drill and tap -
the 2 bolts shown under the crossmember - i drilled and tapped those while the transmission was supported by trolly jack...there's 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame - 2 on each side....this is enough for a test drive, but not long term. so with everything bolted up nice and tight...i placed the 4x3 bracket in place and proceeded to drill and tap the 4 bolts into the side of the frame.
bought some 4x3 angle iron - relatively cheap.
source - East Side Steel
splash
the steel yard cut me 2 pieces 7.5" long. they charged $2.00 per cut...and the chunk of scrap 4x3 was more than I needed but was only $12 bucks...so i didn't argue.
here's the chunk of steel sitting on the end of the cross member. from underneath looking up at how it fits over the end.
traced that pattern and started cutting. hacksaw was clearly going to take too long, so I switched to cutting wheel on the angle grinder. worked well enough for rough shaping. then took it over to the grinder to clean it up.
once it was all shaped up - i drilled the holes to bolt it to the crossmember. this also helped hold it in place so I could drill 4 holes into the frame, then tap with 10mm x 1.0 fine pitch threads, and bolt it in.
the main reason I chose to drill and tap:
1 - trying to drill all the way through the frame and use long bolts to get through the whole frame means you'd run into the brake and fuel lines. relocate them? pass on that!
2 - weld em in. i wanted to do this...my friend helping out is a great welder but my garage power situation would have meant some house electrical and circuit breaker work.
3 - i could oxy weld em in myself...but then again - fire / gas lines - what could go wrong?
4 - drill and tap -
the 2 bolts shown under the crossmember - i drilled and tapped those while the transmission was supported by trolly jack...there's 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame - 2 on each side....this is enough for a test drive, but not long term. so with everything bolted up nice and tight...i placed the 4x3 bracket in place and proceeded to drill and tap the 4 bolts into the side of the frame.
Last edited:
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Nice! That is exactly how mine is done, though the mount is welded to the frame. Same idea though.
Almost ready to drive!
Almost ready to drive!
- Thread starter
- #64
yeah!! at this point all i'm waiting for is drive lines. I dropped them off at DriveLine Service of Portland Driveshafts.com
last monday - they were 7 to 10 days out...which is killing me.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Once you can drive-drive over to a welding shop and have them burn those plates on. It should take all of 10 minutes.
If you were closer, I'd lend you a rear drive shaft!
That's odd on your drive line place. Here it's 24 hours turn around, and occasionally same day with wet paint!
If you were closer, I'd lend you a rear drive shaft!
That's odd on your drive line place. Here it's 24 hours turn around, and occasionally same day with wet paint!
- Thread starter
- #66
agreed...who are all these people that need drive lines mod'ed? and the price...yikes. its looking like about $200.00 per prop shaft.
speaking of drivelines... for future thread searches and the benefit of the community
Post H55 swap - drive line measurements:
flange to flange distance with truck sitting on jack stands and the suspension relaxed
42.5" rear
26 3/8" front.
flange to flange distance with wheels on - truck sitting level and suspension loaded
42.5" rear
26 3/4" front.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Dang, your guys are not only slow, the're expensive!
Here it's $125 with new .125 wall tube, balanced and ready to go. Maybe our local shop takes pity on me since I've been there so many times! Really good guys, who claim to have invented the tooling that all other shops use. Don't know if true, but they have been in business for 50 years and really seem on top of the driveline game.
Here it's $125 with new .125 wall tube, balanced and ready to go. Maybe our local shop takes pity on me since I've been there so many times! Really good guys, who claim to have invented the tooling that all other shops use. Don't know if true, but they have been in business for 50 years and really seem on top of the driveline game.
Where did you get that transfer case from?! That thing looks brand new!going to use this to document my A440 to H55 swap.
here's a link to my google spreadsheet i've been using to keep track of parts and such
H55F cost sheet
Thanks @orangefj45 for many phone calls and the shipment of parts to get me rolling.
Josh at Willamette helped me out by doing a t-case rebuild and attaching the t-case to the tranny for me - this was not something I wanted to tackle myself.
Day 1... I get to claim 2 easy victories...got the clutch master installed and the pedal bucket squared away with no downtime.
I REALLY did not want to do this to my truck...i was actually dreading this so much I was thinking i'd fabricate something to bolt in under the dash if I had to..
EDIT: this is not my dashboard...I grabbed a screenshot of someone else's project as an example
View attachment 1667122
My approach: I found a used pedal bucket on ebay for $40.00 - figured that's cheap enough to experiment with.
it took all of 5 minutes to drill out the spot welds and separate the clutch pedal pivot housing from the larger pedal bucket assembly
View attachment 1667128
the metal separated with almost no disfigurement whatsoever...couple light taps with the hammer on the vise straightened out the tabs and it's ready to install.
fitment: the general shape of the sheet metal lines up perfectly with the top side of the pedal bucket under the steering column - this helped line it up well enough that I felt good about it being in the right place - no major problems with trying to locate the thing in 3 dimensional space in tight quarters.
the original pedal bucket has a hole in the side for where the collar and shaft would line up...so i used a long piece of 1/4-20 to secure the piece into place - this helped orient it and squeeze it in nice and snug so i could do some drilling and screwing.
View attachment 1667129
I secured it with some stainless sheet metal screws to hold it in place while i used an angle drill to open up some larger holes to bolt it all together.
View attachment 1667136
so - for day 1 - i feel pretty good about progress...i was able to do this without destroying the dash!
still waiting on bell housing and related parts so i'm hold until the rest of my parts arrive...then i'll begin the tear down of the automatic.
View attachment 1667119
- Thread starter
- #69
its a rebuilt t-case that looks brand new because Josh is a stud!
Josh - Willamette Blvd Service
Willamette Boulevard Service Center - University Park - Portland, OR
he had a used t-case in storage...so the plan was to rebuild this used t-case and then i'll give him mine off of my automatic when my project is done. (you might be able to find brand spankin new t-case - but i was told it could cost a few thousand, and there's no real justification for it...a rebuild kit is more than good enough)
So I bought these items from Georg @ Valley Hybrids, and delivered them to Josh at Willamette.
I paid him for the t-case rebuild + he attached it to the H55 for me (those short and long bolts noted above).
once he was done we loaded it up into my cruiser and I took the completed kit home so i could start the swap. doing it this way kept my truck drivable until i had all the parts and pieces collected.
if i could do it all over again (i'm not even done yet) I would get the drive line measurements recorded as soon as possible and get the drivelines off to the mod shop... every place I called was a week out. I could have been driving it over a week ago had I not lallygagged on that part.
Josh - Willamette Blvd Service
Willamette Boulevard Service Center - University Park - Portland, OR
he had a used t-case in storage...so the plan was to rebuild this used t-case and then i'll give him mine off of my automatic when my project is done. (you might be able to find brand spankin new t-case - but i was told it could cost a few thousand, and there's no real justification for it...a rebuild kit is more than good enough)
So I bought these items from Georg @ Valley Hybrids, and delivered them to Josh at Willamette.
Code:
TK5 - Transfer Case Overhaul Kit TK5 - Transfer Case Overhaul Kit 1 @ $249.00
36212-Mod32 Modified TC Input Gear – 19 spline mainshaft 1 @ $229.00
Short T-Case Bolts 90119-12047 4 @ $10.83 $43.32
Long t-case bolts 90149-12235 3 @ $7.61 $22.83I paid him for the t-case rebuild + he attached it to the H55 for me (those short and long bolts noted above).
once he was done we loaded it up into my cruiser and I took the completed kit home so i could start the swap. doing it this way kept my truck drivable until i had all the parts and pieces collected.
if i could do it all over again (i'm not even done yet) I would get the drive line measurements recorded as soon as possible and get the drivelines off to the mod shop... every place I called was a week out. I could have been driving it over a week ago had I not lallygagged on that part.
- Thread starter
- #70
reverse lights victory!!
- Thread starter
- #71
waiting for drivelines is killing me... so i’m wrapping up other stuff.
I dig that old school shift knob!
- Thread starter
- #73
yeah it was either that or an 8 ball. wife wanted old school.
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Old school?
Don't you mean "correct FJ60 shift knob"?
Don't you mean "correct FJ60 shift knob"?
What's the source?
- Thread starter
- #76
- Thread starter
- #77
this work day can’t end soon enough.
- Joined
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- Threads
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- www.tlcperformance.com
Those are purdy. No wonder they were 175,643 drachmas.
I installed this bearing on my swap. It froze up immediately. I had to pull the tranny back out, and Installed the used bearing that was originally on the fork race. At first it squealed like crazy. I thought the worst. Then the squeal went away, and everything works as advertised.
