Those look great! Look forward to hearing your experience with them. I don’t want to start a debate here, but what tire pressure are you running? I’m sure you’ll experiment with it as you rack up the miles.
Builds The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter HemiAlex
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- Thread starter
- #562
They’re great. I honestly haven’t checked from where 4wp set them. I bet they’re over 40psi at the moment and it really doesn’t bother me in ride quality.
I’m going to likely lower them until I get an even contact patch with the chalk test.
I did 270 miles today on back roads to Austin and it was so much better than the 33x10.5-15 on a 5.5 inch wheel. The resistance to body roll that it gained was almost like adding a stiffer sway bar to the front. It’s good.
I can’t wait to finally get my 62 sway bar on the rear, this is going to be an excellent grand touring truck soon.
With a sniper I could hop in and drive cross country without an issue. It got 15mpg driving 70-80mph today. I didn’t expect that. I was thinking that my highway mileage would drop because these tires are a good 15 lbs heavier per corner.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I have always liked the 255/85's on vehicles with narrow wheel widths. They give vehicles a much more traditional look while providing modern tire features over like a traditional 7.50X16 type tire. The fact that they are a true 33 makes them even better. They fill the wheel arches up much more properly on a 60 series. I thought about doing this when I lifted mine but did not have the scratch to pull off new wheels as well as tires. The extra cost of the 255's over 33X10.50 forced me to stick with the 15 inch setup on mine. I also was worried the 255 size would be hard to find if I blew out a tire while travelling. Seemed the places I priced them always had to special order this size. But seeing this on your truck may motivate me to switch. Looks great.
- Thread starter
- #564
Getting tires this time around was a pain. I had a horrible time with my k02’s at the end and I was able to get them warrantied. But because of that I was stuck to use my credit with 4wheelparts. They’re the only ones around here who would mount a 33x10.5 on a factory wheel. So I rotated and balanced with them every 5,000 miles. I had their extreme warranty.
I was ready to settle on 235/85-16 Falken wild peak tires in an AT. $140 each and I was expecting to pick up a little pep around town from them. They were on national back order.
Swap to a 265/70 and they were also sold out.
I didn’t want to go 285/75 because of how narrow the 70 series wheel is. Most guys use that on a 7” which isn’t ideal but better than a 6”.
So I really wanted the yoko g003 in 255/85 but they don’t even carry that tire.
I was able to get these Toyos for a huge deal, and although I agree it is an odd size...these are some seriously tough tires. 19/32 tread depth with an E sidewall and 61 lbs each.
I’ve got on board air, an ARB tire plug kit and a hi lift. I’m hoping that is enough to patch a tire, and if I take it back to them with a plug, 4wp will warranty.
Living in a city like Houston, with tons of junk on the road and lots of construction...I’ve never had an object even in my BFG’s. Fingers crossed.
Those looks damn nice on that truck. Looks like you got 5 of them.
I think you’ll be fine with road debris etc, tough tire. Lots of house rebuild construction in my area and I’ve had a few screws in my Nitto Ridges with no leaks or repairs yet, lucky maybe.
Keep those rotated often, I made the mistake of not doing so with my Nittos.
I think you’ll be fine with road debris etc, tough tire. Lots of house rebuild construction in my area and I’ve had a few screws in my Nitto Ridges with no leaks or repairs yet, lucky maybe.
Keep those rotated often, I made the mistake of not doing so with my Nittos.
- Thread starter
- #566
If I did t have the tire carrier rear I wouldn’t be as worried about not having a matching spare.
I’m going to line them up for 5,000 mile on the nose rotations with my oil changes.
Thankfully I don’t drive this truck 500 miles a week any longer so they should last a lot longer than my last set.
I’m hoping to make it to 360,000 miles on this set. 40,000 miles seems reasonable with this tire.
- Thread starter
- #567
For science. 255/85r15 at about 32.5” tall.
Those look totally awesome. Perfect proportions
- Thread starter
- #569
Thanks. I can’t wait to go wheel them! I’ll likely do big bend next month.
- Thread starter
- #570
Life has me on the run. So while I'm busy with work the steering box is going for a rebuild.
I hope its not too worn out. If it is, I'll source an 80 series box and rebuild that.
I hope its not too worn out. If it is, I'll source an 80 series box and rebuild that.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
If your rebuilding your gearbox drill and tap it for hydro assist. You can plug the ports until you decide to use them. My SOA 60 has it and drives like a dream.
When my 60 was stock I had 32” tires. Loved them.
- Thread starter
- #572
I ditched the rebuild of the 60 series box and bought a remanned 80 series box. I got mixed messages from the rebuilder and his warranty wasn't what I expected. I'll have a leak free, newer box in the truck and and better platform for later with the 105 upgrades eventually.
- Thread starter
- #573
A slight step back. My TRE that connects the steering box and damper was falling apart. If I had to point a finger, it would be at the really worn out box having so much play in all directions. I felt an internal clunk, but really it was also exaggerating the fact that the mini ball joint on the TRE was worn.
20,000 miles on a 555 part and its dead. @orangefj45 for the save....sending me the parts to fix this and I'm going to try a 4* caster shim up front to see if I can finally put the front end of this race tractor to bed. A TRE inspection is now going to be a part of my oil change routine with chassis lubrication.
20,000 miles on a 555 part and its dead. @orangefj45 for the save....sending me the parts to fix this and I'm going to try a 4* caster shim up front to see if I can finally put the front end of this race tractor to bed. A TRE inspection is now going to be a part of my oil change routine with chassis lubrication.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Did you adjust the drag link when installed? I was able to tighten up and made a significant change in steering feel and general play. I'm starting to see a trend with some 555s falling apart but noticed they could be tightened up after install.
- Thread starter
- #575
Yes. I did but the box is still original. 320,000 miles and pouring fluid out of it.
Once I get this new TRE with the box, I’ll adjust from there.
Once I get this new TRE with the box, I’ll adjust from there.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Thanks for the call and order Alex!!!!
FWIW, we've sold and installed literally 100s of the %%% TRE kits, as I'm sure Kurt has as well, and we've been very happy with the quality and reliability!
Georg
Valley Hybrids
FWIW, we've sold and installed literally 100s of the %%% TRE kits, as I'm sure Kurt has as well, and we've been very happy with the quality and reliability!
Georg
Valley Hybrids
- Thread starter
- #577
Georg, you rock. Come down to Houston and we will shower you with beer. Promise.
It's not you all, its me. I shouldn't have ran this box that worn out for that long. I didn't notice how bad the steering was until I went with a 255 section width E rated tire....I gained all that steering feel back!
- Thread starter
- #578
It’s alive again. Fixed some wiring that caused the rear lights to go out due to a trailer light box that was poorly installed, swapped in an 80 series steering gear, a new drag link end and also a set of 4* caster shims.
I need to replace my front u bolts now because I didn’t get as much thread engagement as I wanted. I was going to do a u bolt flip kit but I need to get back to driving instead of wrenching in it.
it drives like a dream now. Steering is firm and confident, my play is completely gone, it responds with an inch of steering input and just needs an alignment for toe.
I need to replace my front u bolts now because I didn’t get as much thread engagement as I wanted. I was going to do a u bolt flip kit but I need to get back to driving instead of wrenching in it.
it drives like a dream now. Steering is firm and confident, my play is completely gone, it responds with an inch of steering input and just needs an alignment for toe.
Probably tough to quantify given the combined work done but how much improvement do you think the caster shims created?
I’ve been threatening for a really long time to put in some 2-4 deg caster shims. Your comment also reminds me not to trim my new u bolts until shims are in.
I’ve been threatening for a really long time to put in some 2-4 deg caster shims. Your comment also reminds me not to trim my new u bolts until shims are in.
- Thread starter
- #580
I didn’t even want to drive without them in. I threw them in there based on Georg’s suggestion and I’m going to get it aligned next week. It’s pulling a little to the right but it’s been doing that since I installed new tires. The caster shim actually helped that a little
It feels like a new truck to me, but I had a really worn out platform that I then proceeded to beat up while wheeling.
Thankfully the u bolts aren’t a big deal. Next time I cut them, I will cinch the heavy nut up, and then add a small but below that. I will cut, and then leave the smaller but on there so it protects the threads and allows me to not have an issue removing anything.
