Builds My First Land Cruiser - Cdn 🍁 BJ60 "Wabi Sabi"

[PapaGiamati]

@Gimme a 60, I think I found out what my 3B cold staring issue was....

Operator error!

So when I was messing with the wiring last night to wire up the inclinometer, I had been turning the key for accessories, just shy of the starter motor. As you know this kicks on the auto-glow cycle. Normally my little glow light comes on for a few seconds, then turns off. I assumed this was the end of the glow cycle. Apparently I was wrong. As I sat in the truck messing about with the wiring, I heard a relay pop after like 10 seconds....odd...

So I tried it again, and it did the same. A relay pops but long after the glow light goes out. Either way, I install the inclinometer and go about starting the truck. It hasn't been started in 3 days so its very much a "cold" start. Usually this requires 3 cycles of turning over the engine for at LEAST 10-20 seconds. A very long time.

Instead, this time, I turned on the accessories and the glow system came on, the light turned off, but I patiently waited for another 10 seconds in the cab. Then turned the key, and to my surprise, with the hand throttle pulled out a bit, she fired up within only a couple seconds. Not the laborious 10-20 seconds I was used to.

I tested this theory again this morning before work after the truck sat all night, and what do you know...waiting the extra 5-10 seconds works wonders. The 3B still smokes (white/blue) like crazy for the first minute or so, and usually it sounds like its firing on 1 or 2 cylinders for a good 10-20 seconds before it gets warm enough to fire on all 4. Probably a glow issue even though i have replaced the glow plugs recently.

After filling the back alley with smoke for a minute, it clears right up and I have no smoke issues during any driving conditions.

Turns out I should have read the 3B engine manual on the auto-glow (Super Glow) system...

 

[PapaGiamati]

Found out the crazy body roll in the truck was (somewhat) to do with a completely snapped old sway bar end link.

Found some el cheapo ones to last me until I get a proper full suspension kit.

 

[shipmag]

Another “not necessary” mod, but I really wanted a clock. Most expensive clock I’ve ever bought that I couldn’t wear on my wrist! At least it came with some inclinometers.

Purchased from @FJ40GURU and shipped from AUS to CAN in record time! Thank you. Once again, love this community.

Read a few forum posts on how to wire this guy up and broke out my soldering iron and heat shrink.

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Pulled apart the centre instrument cluster and realized the main light bulb was burnt out. Well I actually never knew it had one! I always wondered how people knew what the controls were at night in this thing. Bought some cheap 12V 3W bulbs at Canadian Tire and a replacement for the dome light too.

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Once again I was in a hurry to finish this up to get to run club, and tacos with friends. So I didn’t take pictures of the wiring BUT, I will do my best to describe it.

The inclinometer/clock comes with the following wires.

RED - constant hot, I wired it directly into the dome light wiring harness (red w/ b) from the fuse cluster and over to the clock.

BLUE - switched 12V, spliced into the main cigarette lighter wire (red) ignition switch.

GREEN - For the back lighting positive, I found an un-used 2 prong connector just behind the instrument panel and found that one was +. Wired this in there, was wired to the light switch, now the inclinometer back lighting turns on at the same time as the rest of the panel lights.

BLACK - for the back lighting ground, I tried some locations but found that grounding it to the metal in the dash worked best.

I think I may go back in and try the other connection on the 2 prong OEM connection. Either way it works and tried all variations of lights and ignition/accessories and it works. Same with a test drive.

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It was so nice to have the full dash back lit. Made it feel *slightly* less like a utilitarian tractor. And yes, my garage really is on a like a ~7% incline...

Hopefully the front prop shaft is finished this week.

Ow I want one! How much was it?

 

[PapaGiamati]

My engine bay rubber sheets were completely wrecked, so I sought to recreate them but on the cheap cheap.

Had some leftover OEM clips, some rivets used by the previous owner, and bought $13 Canadian pesos worth of 1/8” rubber mat.

Drivers side (was a pain to get around the steering rack.)

Passenger Side (kind of messed this side up trying to use the least amount of material)

All in all not bad for how cheap it was to do.

And if it falls apart in a year, or I don’t think it’s doing a good job in wet weather, I’ll re-do it with some leftover material!

 

[PapaGiamati]

Ow I want one! How much was it?

give @FJ40GURU a message to see if they've got any left!

 

[lacalvette]

More work is on the horizon!

I was planning to pop off the front prop shaft as it’s loose around the slip ring. Last thing I need to do before I can pass safety.

But first I got a grease gun and tried to fill the prop shaft with grease as I was unsure of the last time it was done and could just be lacking. When I tried that it came gushing out the front of the prop shaft. Looked like the front of the shaft had blown apart?

Further investigation allowed me to spin this cap(?)
Not sure if it’s meant to do that, or just broken. Either way the shaft is out and going to a driveshaft repair shop tomorrow.


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Once I took the prop shaft off, I could smell diff fluid. And sure enough, the seal from the output of the front diff was leaking. Anyone know the seal or part number?

I have to research how to fix that.

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Might have pushed too much grease there. Can replace that cap in place.

As for your e-brake short cable, if you go back there, check that the small rings are still tight on the cable. If they are loose, cable will not be positioned on the aluminum pivot. The pivot can go too far and contact the hub.

As for the whine, bearing in the h55f are straight roller bearing. These bearing aren’t design to receive any trust force. If these bearing wear they should not whine with high pitch, more like roaring sound. (Not saying 100% sure)
Usually a whine sound is when there is side way force on a bearing (wear/ pre-load).
I can’t say for sure, but it could be the conical pignon bearing on the rear third member.
Is the whine is louder when accelerating, when pushing in 5th…
Nice work there.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Might have pushed too much grease there. Can replace that cap in place.

As for your e-brake short cable, if you go back there, check that the small rings are still tight on the cable. If they are loose, cable will not be positioned on the aluminum pivot. The pivot can go too far and contact the hub.

As for the whine, bearing in the h55f are straight roller bearing. These bearing aren’t design to receive any trust force. If these bearing wear they should not whine with high pitch, more like roaring sound. (Not saying 100% sure)
Usually a whine sound is when there is side way force on a bearing (wear/ pre-load).
I can’t say for sure, but it could be the conical pignon bearing on the rear third member.
Is the whine is louder when accelerating, when pushing in 5th…
Nice work there.

The whine is relative to speed. Its louder the faster you go, and makes a "whish whishh whishhh" kinda sound when you push in the clutch at speed. As if the bearing has pressure released and is slowing down. So from my minimal mechanical knowledge, sounds like an output (input??) shaft bearing? Something to do with the clutch bearings/flywheel area...

my amateur guess.

 

[lacalvette]

The whine is relative to speed. Its louder the faster you go, and makes a "whish whishh whishhh" kinda sound when you push in the clutch at speed. As if the bearing has pressure released and is slowing down. So from my minimal mechanical knowledge, sounds like an output (input??) shaft bearing? Something to do with the clutch bearings/flywheel area...

my amateur guess.

You are probably right about the whish sound being your clutch release bearing. It only make that sound when you press the clutch pedal, right?

Whine sound, 4th speed connect input and output shaft together, without using the countershaft gears. 5th use the countershaft and last gears in the back.
when going 90km/h, if you let go the gas pedal, it doesn’t make any difference for the whine sound? Or going 80km/h, pushing gas pedal on the floor?

 

[PapaGiamati]

Drove the truck to work this morning, was planning on picking up the front prop shaft but turns out the double cardan piece (see image) was not looked at by the tech, and when the owner gave it a once over he noted it was SUPER loose. Probably the thunk i heard every now and again.

He was stoked to tell me that he managed to find a proper Koyo OEM u-joint for the front connection that was also very loose! He said this driveshaft will outlive me. Hope to get it back next week as its all I'm waiting on for the safety.

Whine sound, 4th speed connect input and output shaft together, without using the countershaft gears. 5th use the countershaft and last gears in the back.
when going 90km/h, if you let go the gas pedal, it doesn’t make any difference for the whine sound? Or going 80km/h, pushing gas pedal on the floor?

So I listened to the noises a lot more carefully this morning. Its prevalent mainly in 4th and 5th, but gets louder the faster i go. It kind of sounds more like a "shhhhhhhhh" sound but its semantics trying to re-create sounds in text form hahaha.

It makes sound all the time, and I think I need to re-state my previous comment, the sound is still prevalent when I press in the clutch but when you take it out of gear from speed and free wheel, you can hear the transmission slowing, which is that "whish, whishh, whisshhh" kinda noise.

So, now Im thinking its some bearings inside the transmission which haven't been changed in 40 years that are likely shot. That makes me nervous cause I have never done transmission work. I know lots of pages on here show how to replace the transmission bearings. Guess its something on my "to do" list now...

 

[FJ40GURU]

give @FJ40GURU a message to see if they've got any left!

@shipmag we have them in stock. PM if interested.
Thanks @PapaGiamati

 

[PapaGiamati]

Took the truck to a car show today. Bunch of tuner cars and overlanding tacomas and tundras. Only one Land Cruiser and boy was it a beauty.

I think WabiSabi could have held her ground amongst the other cars. I had a small group of people around my truck in the parking lot when I came outside hahaha.

She looks good in the city. Excited to get it out on some trails where she truely belongs.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Went for a sunset cruise.

 

[PapaGiamati]

24 degrees here and feeling like summer finally.

Truck is doing well, still waiting on the front prop shaft.

Easy job in the meantime.

The colour is not perfect, but Home Depot didnt have the equivalent "Soft Iron" metallic spray that was a perfect match. This will suffice.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Had a relaxing Sunday after running my first triathlon sprint yesterday. Needed some chill time, tried my hand at fabricating something.

It’s going to need a second iteration, but the first try works well enough.

Fits a nalgene in the back one and my coffee thermos, which I’ve spilled in the truck twice on the way to work, in the front. the centre console cup holders are far too small for this North American lifestyle! Haha

So it will be something to sharpen my welding and metal skills in the mean time.

I will likely cut the arm off and raise it a few cm to get it farther off the floor.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Another easy one.

What a difference these larger mirrors make…I actually use my mirrors now.

Edit: I saw a really nice FJ62 today and scoped out their mirrors, these aftermarket ones are for sure close, but not really the same. I will probably seek out some OEM mirrors instead...eventually...

A cheaper re-spray was done at some point?

 

[duncanrm]

76 Series Landcruiser mirrors bolt right on and are superb! They are a very good fit to the door profile but a small gap is evident. Exceptionally stable, hold their position very well, good size and high quality glass. Only available in black.

 

[PapaGiamati]

in the wise words of DJ Khalid, another one.

Finally got the front prop shaft back from the shop. It was incredibly well done. It will outlive me.
Easy install then cruised around in H4 for a bit to ensure there were no funny noises. Which there weren’t!

Also, I have put around 1,100km on the engine/truck since I replaced all those gaskets, and still NO LEAKS!!!! Haha!!!

The only leaks that remain, are the PS knuckle, and this spot on the back of the transmission. I think I’ve seen it before on some other posts. I’ll have to investigate more to figure out what’s up.

 

[lacalvette]

The spot on the back of the transmission is your TC idle shaft.
There is an « o »ring there. Not possible to change it without taking apart the TC. A touch of silicon might help a bit in the meantime.
When you say that you drove in H4, you were on a soft gravel/ sand road? These truck aren’t design for paved road 4x4.

 

[duncanrm]

Not possible to change it without taking apart the TC.

I havent personally done it, but I have watched a guy sneak that shaft out JUST enough to get a new O-Ring on and then push it back in.. misjudge it though and the case has to come apart..

 

[lacalvette]

I havent personally done it, but I have watched a guy sneak that shaft out JUST enough to get a new O-Ring on and then push it back in.. misjudge it though and the case has to come apart..

You are right, idle gear with bearings is free on the shaft.
I don’t have a TC to look at it now but I imagine that thrust bearings would stay in place since idle gear shouldn’t move too much (backlash distance at most)
If I remember correctly, when removing the idle shaft, oil from the gearbox will flow into the TC.