Builds My first 80 Series (2 Viewers)

[thetoyotaman]

You're probably right. I just cringe at cutting factory wires. On the to do list is cleaning up the trailer wiring some shop installed with those wonderful 3M taps.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Since I have been unable to obtain a Collectors Edition badge, I thought a TLCA sticker would be the next best thing.

 

[thetoyotaman]

One of the things I wanted to do with the motor out is service and inspect items like the alternator, starter, and fan clutch. I started with the alternator today and found the bearings are in great shape, the rectifier passed the continuity tests, and the brushes have about 4mm exposed length left. Since new have 10.5mm and the minimum exposed spec is 1.5mm, I'll go ahead and change them. Does anyone know how many amps this alternator is rated for and if there were more than one option in 1997? Thanks!

 

[thetoyotaman]

Inspected the starter. The previous owner had replaced the OEM one with a Napa. I checked the part number and it is the cold climate, 2.0 kW version. The contacts appear nearly new. The only issues I saw were a broken drain tube and the hardware is 13mm and 15mm which I may replace with Toyota standard sizes of 12mm and 14mm. I'm curious as to if the drain tube is available somewhere. Has anyone had an issue with the Napa Premium Starters?

 

[sbman]

View attachment 1239717 One of the things I wanted to do with the motor out is service and inspect items like the alternator, starter, and fan clutch. I started with the alternator today and found the bearings are in great shape, the rectifier passed the continuity tests, and the brushes have about 4mm exposed length left. Since new have 10.5mm and the minimum exposed spec is 1.5mm, I'll go ahead and change them. Does anyone know how many amps this alternator is rated for and if there were more than one option in 1997? Thanks!

I believe it is an 80 amp alternator. There was only one option available as far as I know. There is a bracket sold by @Photoman that allows you to mount a 150 amp alternator off a tundra or something, there are threads about it. I did that when I built my motor as I plan to go electric cooling fan at some point and it will need the amps for that.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Thanks, I found out it is an 80 amp.

Picked up this silicone fan clutch fluid for my Eaton fan clutch. Thanks Tools R Us for the recommendation!

 

[thetoyotaman]

Replaced the alternator brush assembly tonight. This pic compares the new one on the left with the worn one on the right.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Began disassembly of my Eaton fan clutch. A 10mm socket removes the fan hold down nuts and a Torx T-25 opens the case.

 

[thetoyotaman]

First glance.

 

[Ozpall]

How long In then oven at what temp?

 

[thetoyotaman]

A couple of links I found as I get started on this. I'm going to let it drain for a while. I plan on checking the opening temperature and if it is off adjust. However, I haven't found a link yet that illustrates the best method to bend the spring.

Summer Desert Temp Readings
Fan clutch oil mod: mpg hit?

 

[thetoyotaman]

I've drained what appears to be 37ml of Silicone Fan Clutch fluid. It definitely looks ready to be changed.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Testing the fan clutch both on warm up and cool down cycles it appears that the valves open around 133-135 and fully by 170. I think I'm going to leave the spring alone for now and see how the performance is.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I reassembled the fan clutch this afternoon. Added slightly under 50ml of the 20k Silicone Fluid. Seal did not expand like I've had happen with the Aisin on servicing. It went back together very easily. Very pleased so far with the results.

This has me thinking about which fan to run. To use this clutch with the S/C my choices are:
1. Keep the TRD ringed fan - my least favorite choice from searching mud
2. 3.0 V6 fan - does this require the TRD spacer???
3. 3FE fan - spacer required
4. 1FZ-FE fan - sounds like may work with an 8mm spacer but is fan deflection a possible issue?

 

[thetoyotaman]

Still researching the last post, but in the meantime I purchased some decals and a PLX gauge with boost/vacuum, afr, & egt. I may do trans at some point. Need to get sensors. Any recommendations?

 

[thetoyotaman]

Also picked up a Felpro trans gasket as I've never used RTV on one.

 

[thetoyotaman]

New supercharger belt pulley tool. Thanks Tools!

 

[thetoyotaman]

A couple of new decals.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I'm super excited that my Pistons arrived today. This has been a long time coming! .020 O/S.

 

[sbman]

I'm super excited that my Pistons arrived today. This has been a long time coming! .020 O/S.View attachment 1259574 View attachment 1259577

Pistons are in! Not to be too particular, but those look like aftermarket pistons. I can see what appears to be a nick on the bottom of the machined area below the oil control ring, above the wrist pin and to the right. The finish of the coating below appears to be somewhat splotchy, and there are remnants of coating on some of the machining between the ring grooves.

Maybe it's just be the photo, and I am probably too picky, but those are the kinds of finish and QA stuff that made me decide to return the after market pistons. When I compared them with a brand new Toyota piston, the Toyota pistons were clearly smoother in casting, had better coating finish quality, and not a single nick or scratch/defect anywhere on all 6 pistons.

I also discovered the Toyota pistons required the piston to be heated to install the wrist pin where the aftermarket ones were a sliding fit at room temp, that was a major deciding factor for me. My machinist was surprised at the level of detail in the factory pistons.