I noticed the philips head screws were shifted more clock wise,what does this do for you. Lower the temp. at which the clutch engages? Thanks, MIke
Summer Desert Temp Readings
- Thread starter Flank
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Well I just did my temp gauge mod and drove it yesterday (~110) and watched the needle rise each time I stopped at a light. I stopped at the hardware store and when I started it again it was already high. I stopped at the gas station and grocery store just after that and when I pulled in the garage it was waaay too close to the red for my taste. I am yanking the fan and upgrading my clutch oil tonight.
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:whoops: Damn it man!
Further review shows that the above draining method in post #36, is only good for the Aisin clutch. The Eaton has an anti drain back provision, the pump out port comes to the center of the reservoir, so draining that way will be slow and likely to leave some old fluid in the clutch. The best method would be to prop the valve open and lay it flat. I still get the best result from having the hub side upright or at an angle like shown.
Further review shows that the above draining method in post #36, is only good for the Aisin clutch. The Eaton has an anti drain back provision, the pump out port comes to the center of the reservoir, so draining that way will be slow and likely to leave some old fluid in the clutch. The best method would be to prop the valve open and lay it flat. I still get the best result from having the hub side upright or at an angle like shown.
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Heat index doesn't matter to a motor, those temp numbers look good.
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This is the best method that I have found for the Eaton. Open the valve with heat, heat gun, hair drier or carefully with a screwdriver at the spring. Hold the valve open, screw, rod, etc. Drain with the valve side face down and the hub side somewhat upright.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Kevin,
Nice write up on the Eaton. I drained and refilled mine a few weeks ago with 15K to see what kind of results I could get. I am not sure if I did something wrong, but the performance was horrible. It took a considerable amount of time for coolant temps to drop after stopping. For comparison sake....in ambient temps of 90+ degrees with the Eaton w/ 15K temps would stay around 195-197 even after driving around for a while. If I got moving fast enough they would drop to around 193. With the Blue Hub FC w/ 15K temps might go up to 195 at idle, but once I was moving temps would drop to 190-191 and sometimes 188. None of these temps were out of line, but my point is that there is a noticeable difference between the two.
Would trying a much heavier oil help? Say 30K in the Eaton.
At this point I am just experimenting with things.
Nice write up on the Eaton. I drained and refilled mine a few weeks ago with 15K to see what kind of results I could get. I am not sure if I did something wrong, but the performance was horrible. It took a considerable amount of time for coolant temps to drop after stopping. For comparison sake....in ambient temps of 90+ degrees with the Eaton w/ 15K temps would stay around 195-197 even after driving around for a while. If I got moving fast enough they would drop to around 193. With the Blue Hub FC w/ 15K temps might go up to 195 at idle, but once I was moving temps would drop to 190-191 and sometimes 188. None of these temps were out of line, but my point is that there is a noticeable difference between the two.
Would trying a much heavier oil help? Say 30K in the Eaton.
At this point I am just experimenting with things.
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I have heard a few reports of lower performance than expected, on Aisin and Eaton clutches. Without being there, having hands on, it's difficult to tell what the failure was. Some have acquired another clutch, changed fluid in it, with better results, so the method used must be good? It's not something that I have seen or been able to replicate? One possibility is the drain method on the Eaton, if not all of the fluid is drained, how is the performance affected with the mix of old and new fluid?
I have done more Eaton clutches than Aisin, with good results. The only ones that I have seen with valves set outside of the "normal" range were Eaton. Only 2 cases, both were set for first opening ~130-135F ish. I bent the spring to bring them down to 120-125F ish range, in the pic above the valve spring is bent/adjusted. Evidence shows that this isn't a big performance problem. One of them was documented to have preformed well for years in AZ desert, was still working, the fluid was just changed as PM.
Right now my default fluid for the Eaton is ~15K. Some locally have run several clutches on the same rig. Inkpot has run a blue hub w/24K and Eaton w/15.5K. They are close, if anything the Eaton shows a slight performance advantage.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/408882-80-series-cooling-issues-3.html#post5828706
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
- Thread starter
- #48
Update after work done - As stated in my original post of this thead - temps were high. I did cut the aforementioned vents in the hood, and it helped some, but not to the degree I would have hoped.
My next move was to look after the radiator. I was prepared to search for a new Koyo, but thought I'd try getting mine cleaned out first. I removed it and took it to a radiator / AC shop near me - The kind that has the owners name in the title and his wife runs the books. He had it cleaned out in a morning - said it was roughly 50% blocked.
Installed it again and behold - truck stays MUCH cooler. Have not hit the 110* heat again yet, prob won't this year - but in 98* heat where my 95 would typicall run between 195 and 205* , it now holds steady between 186 and 190. The other day when I parked it in the sun during lunch, heat sink had it up to 202 degrees. Started it up and by the time I got it back on the road about 45 second later, it was back down to 186*.
Clean your radiator.
My next move was to look after the radiator. I was prepared to search for a new Koyo, but thought I'd try getting mine cleaned out first. I removed it and took it to a radiator / AC shop near me - The kind that has the owners name in the title and his wife runs the books. He had it cleaned out in a morning - said it was roughly 50% blocked.
Installed it again and behold - truck stays MUCH cooler. Have not hit the 110* heat again yet, prob won't this year - but in 98* heat where my 95 would typicall run between 195 and 205* , it now holds steady between 186 and 190. The other day when I parked it in the sun during lunch, heat sink had it up to 202 degrees. Started it up and by the time I got it back on the road about 45 second later, it was back down to 186*.
Clean your radiator.
I'm here in Vegas too. Where did you take your radiator?
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
- Thread starter
- #51
Pickart & Son Radiator & AC
1801 North Boulder Highway - near sunset on the east side.
It is the original with the plastic tanks. Jim Pickart said it was good as new, no need to replace it.
One thing I did do was strip all the old crusty foam from around and replaced it with new.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
I'm assuming you open the valve w/a screwdriver by prying it open thru the slot you have that black stick in? Thanks.
Heat up the spring on the backside until the slot opens up. Then stick in your screwdriver to hold it open while it drains.
I had the same concerns about the operational temperature , you are OK
Normal engine temp: 203 degrees +/- 23 degrees AC cut off @ 226 degrees
Normal engine temp: 203 degrees +/- 23 degrees AC cut off @ 226 degrees
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
I just put about 40ml of 20K & 12ml of 10K in my Eaton clutch & went for a drive. Outside temp is 94*. Temps appear to be down about 8-10*. Also for the first time I could hear that my fan was engaged when warmed up. So far I'm very satisfied w/this mod.
