Builds My first 80 Series (2 Viewers)

[thetoyotaman]

Painted the dash grab bar black since it was grey and I had some already. Cleaned with Simple Green and TSP and put 3 coats on it roughly. Pulled the upper vent which required pulling the amp and ecu to get to & I found the vent to the left blocked the hole there. So, I used an awl on the right hole to punch the first hole and then the grab bar to line up the left hole. I then used a sharpie to outline the holes. A razor blade and some slow trimming worked great and then a 10mm gear wrench to tighten. I think it looks great and turned out well!

 

[thetoyotaman]

Back to the radio. The burned out bulb can be accessed by removing the display which required unsoldering 3 tabs of a total of 6 tabs that hold it on, 4 across the top and 2 on the bottom. The bulb measures roughly 9 mm and has a green cover on it. I found a couple of possible replacement options but not sure about the wattage & lumens. The first is the brightest. Thinking about giving this a try unless someone has a better idea.

7155 JKL Axial Lead Base,#7155,JKL#7155

Or

7135 JKL Axial Lead Base,#7135,JKL#7135

 

[Chris Wilcox]

I remember this now! What a pain it was. I had a spare radio and robbed one out of it although 2 years later the other one burned out... If you can figure out which lamp above is closest to oem I'll give it a try. If you had the new ones in hand you could probably asses the brightness. Another thought, maybe you can buy the brighter one (well two of them because you don't want to go through this agian) and solder it in and check it against the working one. With voltage division you might get away with a resistor to adjust the brightness. I did this once in a vintage stereo so the display brightness matched the rest.

Why does it look like the backside of the board is solder free where you removed the bulb? Maybe a camera effect but it looks like the copper is missing and stuff on the circles where the lead poke through.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Somewhat of a camera effect. But, If you use a solder wick it will remove the solder.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I just measured the bulb voltage with battery and no engine and the output it 7.5 volts. These bulbs are rated at 5 volts. Not sure if this will work or not.

 

[thetoyotaman]

In emailing the manufacturer and discussing voltage variances with one bulb burned out and if the engine is running or not; as well as comparing both bulb options, this was his response.

Per my engineer: The 1.4 volt addition will affect life hours and
brightness a little. I was expecting him to say with the engine on the
voltage would jump to 14 volts and I think that would burn out the bulb
right away. As for the voltage dropping, no it won't drop when the lamp
is replaced. The brightness is not going to be significantly different
between the two bulbs. The difference between the brightness between the
two bulbs he selected is less than 1 lumen.

So basically to a degree the 5 volt bulb rating is more a reference point for the service life rating. The higher the voltage, the less longevity. I went ahead and placed an order to give it a try.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Installed the bulb today. It is brighter than the original or perhaps the original isn't as bright as it once was. Nevertheless it looks great. I had to install both to get the same look. The original was opaque and the new is clear.

I'm not pleased with the LED I tried as the base doesn't fit well. Pics don't really capture it all.

I think I'm going to try something like this next:
Are these switches supposed to light up?

 

[thetoyotaman]

The 3mm 80mA and 4mm 100mA bulbs arrived. I ended up replacing 5 bulbs in the faceplate. I decided not to replace all as the stock radio bulbs are slightly brighter. I did swap a brighter one in the readout and am pleased with the results. The rest of the center cluster bulbs seem to be more around the 80mA brightness. So, if you replace all the radio bulbs it will actually match the dash a little better but IMO the readout does need to be brighter.

This was a bit of a challenge as disturbing the radio originally to fix the long display caused the other bulbs to burn out. I used an ohm meter to verify continuity on the bulbs to aid in repair. If the display tabs are loose at all the display won't work. Even with the radio security code unlocked the radio was quirky and locked me out with blank displays and not responding. A simple unplugging and plugging back in remedied. But, until I figured that out I was starting to wonder if I would be successful with the bulb replacement.

I did have to replace the antenna switch bulb as well with the same 3mm 80mA bulb and decided to modify the red LED hazard bulb to work correctly but am still unhappy with how loose it fits. Time will tell if it will operate correctly. All in all I am pleased with the results.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Tackled the steering column firewall seal this weekend. Basically, open the flap around where the shaft goes through the firewall, use 10 & 12 mm sockets to remove 2 seal bolts, 2 coupler bolts, and 1 bolt holding the splined section. Grease the new new seal prior to installation. Roll the coupler down, remove the splined section after marking it ( I used white touch up for alignment) and swap the good seal for the bad. Tighten everything but the seal, position the steering wheel to neutral, then tighten the seal. This should correctly align the seal.

Hot drivers feet? This may be your fix.

 

[Chris Wilcox]

Post a pic of the radio brightness at night. I'm going to give this a try at some point.

 

[thetoyotaman]

It's the same brightness as the "disc" light it appears. When the new bulbs come I think I'm going to change them all as it seems the more I fiddle with it the more bulbs burn out.

 

[Chris Wilcox]

Other than the axial bulbs being a bit bright it looks perfect. You probably could have put an inline resistor on the two bulbs to reduce their brightness although it would have been very tricky fitting them in and also some trial and error getting the right resistance. Probably not worth the effort.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Yeah, this radio was so finicky working on it I really started to wonder if I was going to have to give up on it. Those axial bulbs are sandwiched under the display, no real extra room. If the displays aren't perfectly flat pressing against the board they will not work. The contacts on them are a touch connection if you will, not a plug or wire connection of any type. I actually like the extra brightness, it looks nice. I had tried the extra bright LED green bulb for the readout but it wasn't as bright as the original bulb. Thanks for posting your thread about radio bulbs. It helped motivate me to give this a try.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Picked up a Gobi ladder. It doesn't clear the roof rack as it sits right now. Not sure what route I want to take on this yet. It may be just as simple as moving the roof rack forward. But, I like it anyway. Thanks rc51kid! Is there any risk or has anyone cracked the Land Cruiser badge using these?

 

[thetoyotaman]

I took the plunge today and installed the decals. I think it turned out really well. Thanks for the help on dimensions! I used a grease pen to mark the upper level and distance from the taillight.Aussie Spec 4500 emblems

 

[thetoyotaman]

New power steering pressure hose came in today. I decided to go aftermarket as I've had several Japanese pressure hoses start to leak and I've never had the aftermarket replacements leak. This probably won't get installed until I get the engine compartment clean from the mess of the failed one.

 

[thetoyotaman]

New rear shocks came in today, Bilstein 5100s. Nice quality out of the box. Still collecting parts.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Front shocks came in today along with the front cat and rear pipe which was damaged in shipping.

 

[thetoyotaman]

The replacement rear pipe came in.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Picked up a grab bar for above the drivers door. Installed and cleaned it up real good with the help of my daughter. To install: First, remove the dummy plugs with a clean trim removal tool to protect the headliner. Second line up the bar. (There is a up and a down). Third, tighten the screws with a good #2 Phillips. Finally, install the screw covers and your done. Makes for a nice addition to get in and out when off camber. Thanks genericlc!