Builds My first '40 and the venture (14 Viewers)

[Green Bean]

I was thinking that with the front passenger side seat and tunnel cover removed, an engine hoist would slide through the passenger side door to aide in lifting from above. Perhaps not. Things would definitely be easier with an able-bodied assistant. As the car talk guys, Click & Clack, used to pontificate... Who knows less, one person or two... The answer, it seems, is two.

 

[OlYellr]

Well - doing some more inventory of the parts I have accumulated and noticed I screwed up... again. New to the 40 world - I didn't know there was a shift in parts pre 7/1980 and post. I was getting brake parts early on - and rear drums changed... a lot. Sooo, I inadvertently have a pant load of drum brake parts for 8/80+ land cruisers - 40 & 60 - I didn't check 62 series but I saw the dates range to '87 with some of the parts.

They are all OEM, in the bag, unopened. I was going to offer it here to the people who read my stream of conscious first, then I may offer to the SAS group, then post in classified.

I did a quick search at a couple places - and the parts now are $100 more than what I paid then. I'm looking to get close to what I paid, plus shipping. $400 + shipping - parts now are $500 & ship - so basically a 20% discount.

PM me if interested and I can send the part list & a diagram where they go to.

House Rules

• It is not complete rear brake (I have the RH cylinders for example not LH, yet I do have the drum shoe kit)
• I'd prefer to sell all in one batch vs fill orders

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Well - doing some more inventory of the parts I have accumulated and noticed I screwed up... again. New to the 40 world - I didn't know there was a shift in parts pre 7/1980 and post. I was getting brake parts early on - and rear drums changed... a lot. Sooo, I inadvertently have a pant load of drum brake parts for 8/80+ land cruisers - 40 & 60 - I didn't check 62 series but I saw the dates range to '87 with some of the parts.

They are all OEM, in the bag, unopened. I was going to offer it here to the people who read my stream of conscious first, then I may offer to the SAS group, then post in classified.

I did a quick search at a couple places - and the parts now are $100 more than what I paid then. I'm looking to get close to what I paid, plus shipping. $400 + shipping - parts now are $500 & ship - so basically a 20% discount.

PM me if interested and I can send the part list & a diagram where they go to.

House Rules

• It is not complete rear brake (I have the RH cylinders for example not LH, yet I do have the drum shoe kit)
• I'd prefer to sell all in one batch vs fill orders

Did you post up in the “Classifieds”? I’ve had good luck there with pieces, parts and accouterments.

 

[OlYellr]

I haven't yet - thought I'd start here - and by time I get back from work trip - post to classified. Good the hear works well - I acquired more parts and some point should sell them. Have OEM fenders, amb doors, older model gas tank (poly = boo - but they guy just gave it to me as he was done with FJ40 - he got a crazy $ for his).

Anyway - thank for the tip.

 

[sogncab]

Or, hear me out. Convert your rig to use the newer brakes and get the parking brake off the drive shaft

 

[OlYellr]

Or, hear me out. Convert your rig to use the newer brakes and get the parking brake off the drive shaft

I hear you - it is sourcing the parts to do that. the H55 will require lengthening the drive shaft in rear and shortening the front. and a some cross member stuff. Let alone 28 weekends left.

BTW, you're a horrible influence. I love it.

 

[sogncab]

BTW, you're a horrible influence. I love it.

If you ever need a hug bud, I'm here for you.


My problem is I fall prey to peer pressure. Most of my peer pressure is the other voices in my head though....

 

[OlYellr]

Got another Blackstone report this week - This was the from the first oil change (Dec 2023) post engine rebuild completed in Oct 23 - It compares the sample in Feb 2023 with the first engine build where something wasn't right and prompted the spiral of 2023.

It was the same Lucas Break-in oil for both samples - straight SAE 30 both Blackstone Samples. For those who really look - the first column is the Dec 2023, and the second column is Feb 2023.

Basically they say improvement in chrome, iron, and lead. More aluminum, copper, and silicone. No measurable fuel.

 

[65swb45]

Readers digest version please.
1. Is there a noticeable improvement?
2. Are you satisfied?

 

[OlYellr]

Readers digest version please.
1. Is there a noticeable improvement?
2. Are you satisfied?

Bryan's (aka Readers Digest) version.
1. Yes
2. Yes

Verbose Digest version...
1. The cruiser runs much better - I can accelerate going up hill (not that I really need to do that - yet was the result from doing paperclip tests) - been on the interstate going 70+(really don't need to do that either).

2. Overall I am. There are some more things that need to be done; lean drop, adjust valves again, etc. I still can't get the paperclip test to work. I stopped obsessing about that after you said chill out. At last check, vacuum at 17 at idle. And yet, I would like to get the test to work at some point so that demon representing the secondary whispering in my ear goes away. Smoke test yielded no leaks - may do again to rule out I screwed the test up somehow.

My interest will be on tuning/performance as it were outside the knuckles/brakes/suspension/some body planned this year. I think long term I would like a 5-speed just so the engine runs at lower rpm as I am driving on highways a lot. Even 300-500 rpm drop would be a significant noise drop and if makes it easier on the engine overall - works for me. I don't know the likely hood of doing a 5-speed this year vs verify what I have is the best condition it can be.

Will see how things unfold starting in Feb -

 

[mtn biker]

I was thinking that with the front passenger side seat and tunnel cover removed, an engine hoist would slide through the passenger side door to aide in lifting from above. Perhaps not. Things would definitely be easier with an able-bodied assistant. As the car talk guys, Click & Clack, used to pontificate... Who knows less, one person or two... The answer, it seems, is two.

I heard that was the best way and I have experienced that is the best way

 

[Green Bean]

Okay, I’ll bite. Stupid question of the day: what is the”Paperclip” test?

 

[OlYellr]

Not stupid. I had no idea until Mark @65swb45 told me to check it.

Basically put a paperclip on the shaft of the secondary diaphragm at just under the base. Drive up and hill (that is 15 seconds or more in duration) and in say 4th gear - and the secondary should kick in with the load and the diaphragm should move under vacuum thereby activating the second barrel of the carb. the clip should move about 12 mm down the shaft.

Pinhead has a video on YouTube to describe it and there are threads about it too.

here is a picture of the placement - with the hope after the test, it moved down the shaft indicating the diaphragm was engaged = secondary working.

 

[OlYellr]

Well a bit of an update - Drove Yellr - first time since before Xmas.

In the next couple of week will be taking the doors off. The windows don't crank right (new regulator in driver) so hard - snapped part of the window crank off. Anyway - noticed the door bows in causing the outside door handle bolts to interfere with the window regulator. So want to get that right and replace the weather stripping while in there.

Getting parts ordered for some weekend fun come April/May. There is a chance I will take Yellr on a vacation in June if it goes just right. Will see.

And took Yellr in today to have it dyno'd - I wanted to know and have a baseline if anything done to it has an impact (all new bearings for example). Lets say I learned a lot. Mainly the spec you see (200 ft-lb torque and 125 hp) is an engine on a stand. Not all the losses between the engine and the tire. They guy doing the testing said 20-25% loss isn't unheard of and with the size of my tires (33) - he said probably more on the 25% side. And he said, every car is different so just a swag.

Also I learned, and maybe just this place, they test in 3rd gear - 4th is 1:1. I did ask them to conduct one in 4th so I know what RPM 70 mph is (max I would ever do on the highway). Photo at end shows 4th gear test. Movie is 3rd gear test + 4th gear test for rpm @ 70 mph...

Spec - max torque about 209 ft-lb @ 1800 RPM: 125 HP @ 3500 RPM

Take 25% off - 157 ft-lb and 93.7 HP
Take 20% off - 167 ft-lb and 100 HP

My results - 167 ft-lbs @ 1827 RPM and 91 HP at 3987 RPM

70 MPH in 4th gear = 2862 RPM (and my meter is 10 mph off vs reality which I suspected/knew)

Video

 

[mtn biker]

Well a bit of an update - Drove Yellr - first time since before Xmas.

In the next couple of week will be taking the doors off. The windows don't crank right (new regulator in driver) so hard - snapped part of the window crank off. Anyway - noticed the door bows in causing the outside door handle bolts to interfere with the window regulator. So want to get that right and replace the weather stripping while in there.

Getting parts ordered for some weekend fun come April/May. There is a chance I will take Yellr on a vacation in June if it goes just right. Will see.

And took Yellr in today to have it dyno'd - I wanted to know and have a baseline if anything done to it has an impact (all new bearings for example). Lets say I learned a lot. Mainly the spec you see (200 ft-lb torque and 125 hp) is an engine on a stand. Not all the losses between the engine and the tire. They guy doing the testing said 20-25% loss isn't unheard of and with the size of my tires (33) - he said probably more on the 25% side. And he said, every car is different so just a swag.

Also I learned, and maybe just this place, they test in 3rd gear - 4th is 1:1. I did ask them to conduct one in 4th so I know what RPM 70 mph is (max I would ever do on the highway). Photo at end shows 4th gear test. Movie is 3rd gear test + 4th gear test for rpm @ 70 mph...

Spec - max torque about 209 ft-lb @ 1800 RPM: 125 HP @ 3500 RPM

Take 25% off - 157 ft-lb and 93.7 HP
Take 20% off - 167 ft-lb and 100 HP

My results - 167 ft-lbs @ 1827 RPM and 91 HP at 3987 RPM
View attachment 3547171

70 MPH in 4th gear = 2862 RPM (and my meter is 10 mph off vs reality which I suspected/knew)

View attachment 3547172




Video

That is respectable for these old tractors

 

[Green Bean]

Well a bit of an update - Drove Yellr - first time since before Xmas.

In the next couple of week will be taking the doors off. The windows don't crank right (new regulator in driver) so hard - snapped part of the window crank off. Anyway - noticed the door bows in causing the outside door handle bolts to interfere with the window regulator. So want to get that right and replace the weather stripping while in there.

Getting parts ordered for some weekend fun come April/May. There is a chance I will take Yellr on a vacation in June if it goes just right. Will see.

And took Yellr in today to have it dyno'd - I wanted to know and have a baseline if anything done to it has an impact (all new bearings for example). Lets say I learned a lot. Mainly the spec you see (200 ft-lb torque and 125 hp) is an engine on a stand. Not all the losses between the engine and the tire. They guy doing the testing said 20-25% loss isn't unheard of and with the size of my tires (33) - he said probably more on the 25% side. And he said, every car is different so just a swag.

Also I learned, and maybe just this place, they test in 3rd gear - 4th is 1:1. I did ask them to conduct one in 4th so I know what RPM 70 mph is (max I would ever do on the highway). Photo at end shows 4th gear test. Movie is 3rd gear test + 4th gear test for rpm @ 70 mph...

Spec - max torque about 209 ft-lb @ 1800 RPM: 125 HP @ 3500 RPM

Take 25% off - 157 ft-lb and 93.7 HP
Take 20% off - 167 ft-lb and 100 HP

My results - 167 ft-lbs @ 1827 RPM and 91 HP at 3987 RPM
View attachment 3547171

70 MPH in 4th gear = 2862 RPM (and my meter is 10 mph off vs reality which I suspected/knew)

View attachment 3547172




Video

Well a bit of an update - Drove Yellr - first time since before Xmas.

In the next couple of week will be taking the doors off. The windows don't crank right (new regulator in driver) so hard - snapped part of the window crank off. Anyway - noticed the door bows in causing the outside door handle bolts to interfere with the window regulator. So want to get that right and replace the weather stripping while in there.

Getting parts ordered for some weekend fun come April/May. There is a chance I will take Yellr on a vacation in June if it goes just right. Will see.

And took Yellr in today to have it dyno'd - I wanted to know and have a baseline if anything done to it has an impact (all new bearings for example). Lets say I learned a lot. Mainly the spec you see (200 ft-lb torque and 125 hp) is an engine on a stand. Not all the losses between the engine and the tire. They guy doing the testing said 20-25% loss isn't unheard of and with the size of my tires (33) - he said probably more on the 25% side. And he said, every car is different so just a swag.

Also I learned, and maybe just this place, they test in 3rd gear - 4th is 1:1. I did ask them to conduct one in 4th so I know what RPM 70 mph is (max I would ever do on the highway). Photo at end shows 4th gear test. Movie is 3rd gear test + 4th gear test for rpm @ 70 mph...

Spec - max torque about 209 ft-lb @ 1800 RPM: 125 HP @ 3500 RPM

Take 25% off - 157 ft-lb and 93.7 HP
Take 20% off - 167 ft-lb and 100 HP

My results - 167 ft-lbs @ 1827 RPM and 91 HP at 3987 RPM
View attachment 3547171

70 MPH in 4th gear = 2862 RPM (and my meter is 10 mph off vs reality which I suspected/knew)

View attachment 3547172




Video

The red car in the background... They didn't tie it down very good during the dyno testing?

 

[OlYellr]

Nope. I noticed that too when I posted it. I guess that is what the waver is for. “car not drivable? We are also a body shop” kind of thing

they did say I can do the test next time. The took me through the steps and I did one.

 

[OlYellr]

First of many shipments bound for this part of flyover country. This partial shipment is courtesy of @TRAIL TAILOR... more stuff inbound. May make one or two more orders before vacate for a lot of work travel. Thought/plan is to acquire tons now and install/hit it hard in mid-spring.

Stopped by REI on way to the city - ... birds of a feather as they say

 

[OlYellr]

Getting ready to ring that long-a$$ travel bell and made what I hope is last big parts order and will mop up what was missed or not available when I return. Orders still arriving.

In the mean time - a thank you gift for my friend in KC who helped/guided me with the engine rebuild (he owns the red aka Ketchup cruiser back in this thread). He was talking about wanting a bib as wall art in his office. Got a beat-up bib and parts for free - and got it back from Powder this week and put together quickly to see. Other bezel is for my wall.

more of same...had to use tap/die to clear out the powder coating - forgot to plug threads.

more

 

[OlYellr]

I'm back for a few days before launching again. My friend from KC was up so we met for beers and I gave him the bib.

Got prime parking last night...