Builds My first '40 and the venture (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter OlYellr
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OlYellr
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- #763
Not much, just forgot to post a picture of the other side. Not cracks but can see where the chanel and frame are separating at the bottom except where rivets are. Again shows up better after cleaning up and knocking off spalling.
And
This is inside. See how much of the sub-channel has lost material on the bottom after cleaning up.
And
This is inside. See how much of the sub-channel has lost material on the bottom after cleaning up.
Is the frame sitting square?
If you can install a piece of tube (purple) in both of the shackle hangers, do they deviate from horizontal the same amount?
If you can install something akin to a bolt in the rear spring pin hangers, and shackle hangers, you can get an important (green) dimension. Anything out of 'square' will reflect on the hypotenuse of the (green) triangle, like if the passenger side rail is bent up and slightly twisted from the point of the frame crack.
If you can install a piece of tube (purple) in both of the shackle hangers, do they deviate from horizontal the same amount?
If you can install something akin to a bolt in the rear spring pin hangers, and shackle hangers, you can get an important (green) dimension. Anything out of 'square' will reflect on the hypotenuse of the (green) triangle, like if the passenger side rail is bent up and slightly twisted from the point of the frame crack.
Those dunlops hiding under the table will outlive most people
1911
chupacabra
They do make a hard rubber!
OlYellr
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- Thread starter
- #771
Ok some more info – for what it is worth….
With respect to frame true, progress, etc....
Went to the factory frame specifications and confirm that the unbroken side, driver side, of the frame is within +/- 2mm in the main dimensions = within spec.
When comparing the specs of the damaged section of the frame, it measured that areas not immediately effected by the damage are within spec too. Meaning only the damaged section requires some alignment in the vertical to get it within spec in relation to the driver side. Why vertical?
Tried some initial adjustments to the broken section to see what it will take to get it back together. Worked on aligning the edges of the crack to each other. Lined up fairly well, however once aligned, the pin in the spring hanger is not level. Indicating that the face (outside) of the frame where it is cracked was pushed back (inward) due to the flexing/rotating of the hanger.
Rus cut out sections of the crack where there was interference preventing the correct alignment of the damaged area. Rus broke out his porta-power (10,000 lb no less) to attempt to flex the face of the frame near where the crack starts to see if this helps align the hanger in relation to the lower section of the frame. That produced minimal movement while adding spreading force between the frame rails. This confirmed that the localized damage is the cause of the misalignment.
Rus started to make a template to cut and weld to strengthen the area.
Here is a shot of the first test template before all the circular cutouts to make it look stockish.
With respect to frame true, progress, etc....
Went to the factory frame specifications and confirm that the unbroken side, driver side, of the frame is within +/- 2mm in the main dimensions = within spec.
When comparing the specs of the damaged section of the frame, it measured that areas not immediately effected by the damage are within spec too. Meaning only the damaged section requires some alignment in the vertical to get it within spec in relation to the driver side. Why vertical?
Tried some initial adjustments to the broken section to see what it will take to get it back together. Worked on aligning the edges of the crack to each other. Lined up fairly well, however once aligned, the pin in the spring hanger is not level. Indicating that the face (outside) of the frame where it is cracked was pushed back (inward) due to the flexing/rotating of the hanger.
Rus cut out sections of the crack where there was interference preventing the correct alignment of the damaged area. Rus broke out his porta-power (10,000 lb no less) to attempt to flex the face of the frame near where the crack starts to see if this helps align the hanger in relation to the lower section of the frame. That produced minimal movement while adding spreading force between the frame rails. This confirmed that the localized damage is the cause of the misalignment.
Rus started to make a template to cut and weld to strengthen the area.
Here is a shot of the first test template before all the circular cutouts to make it look stockish.
OlYellr
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- Thread starter
- #773
The final template has been made - Here is a shot of the template before all the circular cutouts to make it look stockish.
the end to the left actually slides under the original channel. the way the inner and outer channels were constructed allows for it to just slide in and behind - see that crescent to the left of the original inner channel - the template slide back there
One thing to note – the area that is solid cardboard and highlighted in red in the photo will be stronger being solid vs cutout. Right behind is the main stress of the hanger.
the end to the left actually slides under the original channel. the way the inner and outer channels were constructed allows for it to just slide in and behind - see that crescent to the left of the original inner channel - the template slide back there
One thing to note – the area that is solid cardboard and highlighted in red in the photo will be stronger being solid vs cutout. Right behind is the main stress of the hanger.
OlYellr
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- #774
This shot is a slightly smaller version because the plasma cutter tip diameter. Also, reversing the template and a perfect fit on the other side! - Can see the tab that I was talking about in last post at the top.
The three templates -
Thinking (brainstorming) to maybe make more of them and Rus can sell now that it is mostly measured out for those who don't want to take their frame to Rus.
Next is to clean the area up, will be wire wheeling etc, then finish welding the crack area/hanger area - then get the new template welded in, paint.
Also, deciding if paint tank then under coat, or just undercoat it.
Once done with this side, then do the other side - will be lots smoother/quicker, and good insurance. Then gussets on the front side of both hangers.
Happy how this is coming together.
The three templates -
Thinking (brainstorming) to maybe make more of them and Rus can sell now that it is mostly measured out for those who don't want to take their frame to Rus.
Next is to clean the area up, will be wire wheeling etc, then finish welding the crack area/hanger area - then get the new template welded in, paint.
Also, deciding if paint tank then under coat, or just undercoat it.
Once done with this side, then do the other side - will be lots smoother/quicker, and good insurance. Then gussets on the front side of both hangers.
Happy how this is coming together.
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I am impressed by the level of “research, and trial” that you have put into this. Not that most of wouldn’t but I never would have thought about a frame requiring the level of detail… I know it demands it as it is the foundation of the entire truck. In the hands of lesser skilled people, you’d always wonder what your level of perfection is.
I was discussing something similar with @zerotreedelta about the levels of performance the engine is capable of…not meaning getup and go but, performance like a highly trained athlete whose muscle, breathing and brain are all synced up perfectly.
Looking forward to each post @OlYellr.
I was discussing something similar with @zerotreedelta about the levels of performance the engine is capable of…not meaning getup and go but, performance like a highly trained athlete whose muscle, breathing and brain are all synced up perfectly.
Looking forward to each post @OlYellr.
OlYellr
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- #777
Thanks but the real credit is to Rus @solomrus and his craft not mine.
I like to say “Let it steep. Make good tea.” Rus makes good tea. He teaches me … like today, lets me do things and I know (well I’d like to think I know) when to step back and let him do what he does well.
Speaking of engines, got to ride in a car Rus and Sam were working on. They built a high performance engine. Not perfectly tuned yet, but will be that athlete you discuss. I had never been in such a performance car in my life. It isn’t my car so I am not going to post a picture without permission.
Chungas Revenge
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OlYellr
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- #779
Yesterday was a lot of wire wheeling the back 1/3 of YELLR. Get everything closer to coming together and paining it.
Have a leak around timing cover so that is added to the todo list to get it closer to leak free.
Beat the fuel tank protector back. Going to clean it up, check new shape to new tank then paint it too.
Have a leak around timing cover so that is added to the todo list to get it closer to leak free.
Beat the fuel tank protector back. Going to clean it up, check new shape to new tank then paint it too.
If Rus decides to make more of those box sections to sell let me know. I imagine more than a few 79+ rigs could use them if they’re trying to keep the original frame alive. Cheers to progress and thanks for posting up the details!
