My Desmog Thread (14 Viewers)

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Cool, that makes sense. Learn something new everyday!

Just a testament to this thread and the whole desmogging process:

Well worth it. With headers and a dizzy recurve it is noticably better. Your not going to have a v8 under the hood, but i cant believe how much smoother it idles and accelerates. Not to mention knowing what the hell is going on under your hood- which is priceless. Sorry all you Californians!
 
You might be sorry to me as well. I'm having a rough time finding a place to get this thing registered. Ugh.
 
Mine is done. This is what it looks like in the end. I still need to cap the air cleaner properly. It idles nicely (600 rpm) and accelerates hard. Much more power than before.

I have a flat spot that I am hoping will go away when I get my dizzy back from Jim C.

3-1 Downey header with Flowmaster 40 series sounds pretty good too......

While we were in there all of the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch were replaced with OEM parts from Cruiser Dan.

Jim C. provided the smog pump elimination pump and the necessary air rail plugs. Thanks for all you have done for this thread Jim!!!

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Hey guys, I'm almost done with my desmog. I'm in Idaho so no emitions testing! The only part of desmogging I need to do now is the part that all hooked to the exhaust. But I wanted to see what you all thought of my progress so far so you can correct me if I've done anything wrong. And hopefully help others who may be wanting to do the same thing.
Thanks!

The Great Gabbo
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Where did you get the caps for the air cleaner??
 
I needs me some of those (2) when the dizzy comes back my direction :)
See anything wrong in the pictures I posted??
OK, a pair will be in the box w/ the dissy.

Pics look good. I like the HAC mounting.
 
Man, thats downright scary !:eek:
 
I got my my newly desmogged FJ-60 with 3.70's, 33's, snorkle and roof rack up to 88.6 mph on flat ground today. That is insane! Drove perfectly and was holding that speed nicely at 3500 RPMs. Before the desmog, 77 mph was max speed.

:lol: I should go see how fast mine can go.
 
Just a quik question as I finally got my block-off plate made: Once I remove the valve from the intake manifold, what do I do with the line that comes from the passenger side of the engine that goes over top into that fitting? And what does the pipe on the back of the EGR cooler go into? The exhaust manifold? Do I need another block off plate? I'm so close to being done with this...
 
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Just a quik question as I finally got my block-off plate made: Once I remove the valve from the intake manifold, what do I do with the line that comes from the passenger side of the engine that goes over top into that fitting? And what does the pipe on the back of the EGR cooler go into? The exhaust manifold? Do I need another block off plate? I'm so close to being done with this...
Are you talking about the line that comes from the PCV? If so, you'll want to keep that.

Check out this bit of tech from FJ40Jim for how to pull that off.

Butt
 
There isn't a PCV valve in the valve cover?

Now what to do with the cooler? Can it be removed?
 
Want to buy....
- E-brake bell crank assemblies left and right



Me too!

You can eliminate it.

Sweet, I will!

Okay... So if I want to I can eliminate the HIC system because it just warms up the carb faster for lowering emissions. But I still need the crankcase breather. Does it have to go in that spot or can I route it up to the aircleaner?
 
The HIC valve does control the HAI for faster warmup. The HIC also provides (as the name indicates) Hot Idle Compensation, raising the idle speed when engine bay temps are high, to help turn the fan & WP faster and cool things off. So, if the HAI is undesirable, just cap off the HAI vac nipple on the HIC valve. HAI will be disabled, but the HIC function will remain.

The crankcase breather is a 90* rubber hose from valve cover to air cleaner.
 
The crankcase breather is a 90* rubber hose from valve cover to air cleaner.

Okay, got it. That's where I was getting confused.

I'm getting closer.
I don't need the HAI. It just helps control emissions when cold.
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I don't beleive the HIC valve can adjust the idle speed. It doesn't connect to the carb in any way. I think it's purpose is to open and close the HAI. There is a PCV on the passenger side of the crank case and I am going to hook that into the air-cleaner.

Just need to make one more block-off plate...
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Okay, got it. That's where I was getting confused.

I'm getting closer.
I don't need the HAI. It just helps control emissions when cold.
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I don't beleive the HotIdleCompensation valve can adjust the idle speed. It doesn't connect to the carb in any way.

believe what you will.:meh:

It needs to be on the record that the purpose of the Hot Idle Compensator is to compensate for the drop in idle speed that occurs on a hot engine. It does this by allowing a metered amount of air into the PCV hose and then into the manifold. Making more air available=increased idle speed. See emissions FSM for detailed explanation.

I think it's purpose is to open and close the HAI.
The secondary purpose of the HIC is to allow a metered amount of vacuum to the HAI diaphragm, to improve cold weather driveablilty. On older vehicles the 2 systems are divorced, but starting around 1979, the engineers figured a way to mate the two into one control valve, the HIC.

There is a PCV on the passenger side of the crank case and I am going to hook that into the air-cleaner.
The PCV valve on the side of the engine needs connected to manifold vacuum, centered in the intake manifold. If it is connected to the air cleaner, then both ends of the PCV system are connected to atmosphere, so there will be no forced movement of clean air through the crankcase. There will not be Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

If running a road draft vent system is the goal, the PCV valve should be removed, because it is restrictive to airflow, unless there is vacuum on one side of it.
 

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