My Desmog Thread

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Bripars40 said:
@Stumpalama well I probably need to check that idle reading. I'll see if I have a vacuum gauge tomorrow.

So a leak would cause it to run that poorly?
Click to expand...
Check out my "pleading for assistance..." thread in the 60 section. I finally got mine to run today without choke tho the rebuilt stock carb (I did) is set a tad high at idle ~1k... so I need to tweak it down some more. I have a bunch of vac lines wrong and thankfully was set right by Cruiser Jimmy. The link Toyoland (I think) linked a desmog thread called "the definitive guide" is very helpful with lots of clear info and photos per each section.
 
BriPars, Remember that most of the smog stuff is on the driver fenderwell. If it is a really old Cruiser, there is no chassis smog stuff to connect to the engine.

The engine is 86, but what year is the fenderwell?
 
FJ40Jim said:
BriPars, Remember that most of the smog stuff is on the driver fenderwell. If it is a really old Cruiser, there is no chassis smog stuff to connect to the engine.

The engine is 86, but what year is the fenderwell?
Click to expand...

The chassis is a '79. I have the components that were on the fenderwell from the '86. Can I get rid of them all?
 
Personally IMO, if you have them, hang onto them until your 100% sure what you need and want.
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
Personally IMO, if you have them, hang onto them until your 100% sure what you need and want.
Click to expand...

True. I wasn't going to throw them out. Just wondering if I can simplify the whole process.

Also, thanks for the help on your thread. I've been following it this week. I'll get a chance to work on the truck late tonight so hopefully I will have some clarity on what I can and cannot do with the evap system on the driver side.
 
Bripars40 said:
True. I wasn't going to throw them out. Just wondering if I can simplify the whole process.

Also, thanks for the help on your thread. I've been following it this week. I'll get a chance to work on the truck late tonight so hopefully I will have some clarity on what I can and cannot do with the evap system on the driver side.
Click to expand...
Good to know, glad it could help. Once I get the second VCV for the drivers side and get it lined in right, I'll get some pixs back on my thread. For now without it I'll see better how she runs today (even tho I'd gladly stay inside as its grossly cold and wet out there) and will report back on my thread.
 
Brian, There is no need for the 86 fenderwell rack because the truck is still equipped with 79 computer and emissions.
Desmog per the 81-87 diagram and it will work. There are a few minor differences in 79, like the HAC and the AIR, but they are going away, so irrelevant now.

The VCV and BVSV to operate the canister purge is good to have, but the truck will run without it if the purge fitting in the carb insulator plate is capped off, though it's not an ideal long term solution.

Ultimately you want to get rid of the 3 bad systems (EGR, AIR, HAC) and keep most everything else working.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Brian, There is no need for the 86 fenderwell rack because the truck is still equipped with 79 computer and emissions.
Desmog per the 81-87 diagram and it will work. There are a few minor differences in 79, like the HAC and the AIR, but they are going away, so irrelevant now.

The VCV and BVSV to operate the canister purge is good to have, but the truck will run without it if the purge fitting in the carb insulator plate is capped off, though it's not an ideal long term solution.

Ultimately you want to get rid of the 3 bad systems (EGR, AIR, HAC) and keep most everything else working.
Click to expand...

That's great Jim. Thanks for the help.
 
Need some help.

In the middle of my DeSmog. Trying to Remove the EGR System but how the hell do you get to the J pipe coming into the bottom of the of the manifold? Im assuming this is the pipe coming out of the back of the EGR Cooler attached to the block? Without a car lift I don't see how I can get to it from the top, cant get under the car currently.

Here is where I am at so far.

Desmog 1

Desmog 1



Also the JimC @FJ40Jim @orangefj45 cap and plug set comes with 6 allen head screws for the air rail hose, it also comes with two larger ones...What are they for?

Any help is appreciated.
 
2 broken off BVSVs is a common condition, which is why the kit includes 2 plugs.

The EGR pipe off the bottom of the exh manifold is best attacked from underneath with a 12mm swivel socket and a longish (18"? 24"?) extension.
 
FJ40Jim said:
2 broken off BVSVs is a common condition, which is why the kit includes 2 plugs.

The EGR pipe off the bottom of the exh manifold is best attacked from underneath with a 12mm swivel socket and a longish (18"? 24"?) extension.
Click to expand...


Thanks for quick response Jim. So I'm clear I don't need either bvsv just plug them? I had ordered a replacement bvsv(1) per the manual saying to keep the top.
 
A little update i am mid desmog, taking my time. I have everything removed except the manifold. Wanted to lean on some that have done it already see what else i may want to do while i have all this room to work with and half the side out.

I am planning to do the exhaust manifold gasket, i have all the Jim C kits to block off EGR etc. My engine has 197k original miles on it seems to run great minus lots of vacuum leaks missing valves etc. Thinking removing the valve cover polishing it up getting a valve adjust while im in there.

Couple of questions the bolt holes for the EGR Cooler should i seal them with something silicon, another bolt? Also the Bolts for the EGR valve to manifold piece silicon or JB weld bolts back in?

Here are some current shots.

Smog 2

Smog 2

Desmog 1

Desmog 1

Smog 3

Smog 3


Any other suggestions are welcome, im stuck with the manifold in there because i thought i could get it out the EGR portion without removing exhaust, but will have to get the truck in the garage to get under it and remove the exhaust.

My OCD is kicking in with all the 30 years of dirt but from experience better to leave dirty and protected than to start cleaning everything...
 
Remove all the egr stuff. You don't need to remove the exhaust, or manifold. Remove EGR inlet and install man a fre block off plate with the Pcv Nipple. You can keep the original pcv inlet to the manifold (that you have pictured) but you need to plug the hole air tight. Look at the last pages of Jim c's thread "desmog components." To see pictures of what to do with it.

Get under the truck and you can remove the exhaust portion of the EGR using extensions on a ratchet. Then install the block off plate you had.

The pipe that comes off of the exhaust into the bay can be cut and welded shut, or you can do the "hillbilly fix" which is described in the desmog guid (put a bolt in there)
 
masonbarnard said:
Remove all the egr stuff. You don't need to remove the exhaust, or manifold. Remove EGR inlet and install man a fre block off plate with the Pcv Nipple. You can keep the original pcv inlet to the manifold (that you have pictured) but you need to plug the hole air tight. Look at the last pages of Jim c's thread "desmog components." To see pictures of what to do with it.

Get under the truck and you can remove the exhaust portion of the EGR using extensions on a ratchet. Then install the block off plate you had.

The pipe that comes off of the exhaust into the bay can be cut and welded shut, or you can do the "hillbilly fix" which is described in the desmog guid (put a bolt in there)
Click to expand...

Ya I knew I didn't have to do the manifold but have the gasket already so going to replace it. However I could get the flexible pipe to the cooler off the EGR valve siezed shut so having to remove manifold to get it all out anyways.
 
Breitz6989 said:
Ya I knew I didn't have to do the manifold but have the gasket already so going to replace it. However I could get the flexible pipe to the cooler off the EGR valve siezed shut so having to remove manifold to get it all out anyways.
Click to expand...

What's going on with the valve shouldn't matter since it's coming off. one of the bolts snapped? Spray pb on it for the next couple days, torch it, and grab a screw extractor set. You can leave it there as well. Removing manifold you need to reinstall correctly, and unless you think your manifold is leaking you probably shouldn't touch it.
 
All of the EGR related bolt holes are dead end holes. They don't go through to anything. You could screw short metric bolts slathered in antiseize into the empty threaded holes to keep the threads clean if you ever think you'll need those bolt holes again.
 
20170123_132030.jpg
i have 79 fj40 that dose not have any smog components is there anything i can do to set the vacuum lines in with what i have
20170123_132024.jpg
20170123_132020.jpg
20170123_131940.jpg
 
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