Builds My Cummins 6bt / '92 fj80 build

[Jvoight]

More pics and details on how you did this please.

1 Using a cut off wheel on a I cut the welds on the factory bracket/saddle on outside of PS frame rail, both front & rear welds and a little weld on the top end... See first photo in post #12

2 Whack with a hammer preferable with a plate or something on the cross brace to keep it from getting hammered all the f up.

3 The torch is next, heat the DS close to the end... Red hot for about 1" of total length, bend down about 1-1/2" on PS

4 I used 1" sch 80 pipe 4" long to put back in the factory mount and serve as the spacer, tack that in close to where the original one was... Pipe is about half way up into the bracket.

5 I used a clamp to pull the cross brace up to the new piece which only hits on the DS of the 4" piece. 5a Then I tacked the top of the cross brace where it contacts the bottom DS 4" piece.

6 The PS of the 4" piece had about 3/8 gap. I then heated a 1" section red hot of the cross brace DS of the 4" piece where it was just tacked. Using a clamp at the most PS end of cross brace pull the cross brace up till it touches. Then tack and weld

Step 5a & 6 could be omitted if u put the 4" piece at a matching angle to the lowered cross brace. I just opted to keep the 4" piece parallel with the factory brace... Looks like it was more intentional or factory... At least to me. It also keeps the inside PS frame rail clean.

Easy and lots o fun

 

[Jvoight]

Inter cooler tubes in

 

[Jvoight]

These are the 4.5L engine mounts tacked in

The 4.0L engine mounts were directly above the cross brace that got lowered

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I wanted to chime in on this on cnorm's then decided to bring it over to my thread after seeing how long winded it was getting

This pertains to a machined part included with the diesel adapters fzj80 kit. 2 of these parts have failed while in service... that I know of. Cnorm has pics of the broken piece on his build thread

This is a condensed portion of an article I found when I googled aluminum,cracks and square corners vs. radius corners... To help support my theory as to the why these parts failed...

"Good fabricators & machinists understand the importance of creating radiused inside corners where the legs of "L" or "U" or similar join. Stresses tend to concentrate at square inside corners, increasing the chance of a crack starting. Radiused inside corners tend to disperse the stresses, reducing the chance of a crack. As a general rule, the larger the radius at an inside corner, the less likely that a crack will start."

He is using a square edged cutter to make the angle cut and that tab... maybe a radius end cutter would provide better strength. The cut going into the body I'm sure is a machining error... At least I think it is, doubt there is any reason the machinist would desire that on any part.

The crack that led to that piece breaking off originated somewhere... then grew till failure. It didn't happen in one abrupt instant... (Unless u drop it... ... Sorry cnorm&Mr cimarron, I had to!!)


View attachment 1054466

I filed, smoothed and put a little radius on that part. Now just hoping it will make the difference of failing or not.

I'm also looking into maybe creating additional support by using bolts... I'll be sharing what I come up with after I stare at it a bit more...

I'm not necessarily feeling like it's worth reconfiguring the whole setup or trying to make the factory dodge/cummins stuff work... At least not yet

Since you have your off still. Is there enough meat in the housing that a hole can be drilled through it and aligned with one of the three holes on the other piece? The piece that bolts to the head.

 

[Dirty Koala]

1 Using a cut off wheel on a I cut the welds on the factory bracket, both side and a little weld on the top end

2 Whack with a hammer preferable with a plate or something on the cross brace to keep it from getting hammered all the f up.

3 The torch is next, heat the DS close to the end... Red hot for about 1" of total length, bend down about 1-1/2" on PS

4 I used 1" sch 80 pipe 4" long to put back in the factory mount and serve as the spacer, tack that in close to where the original one was... Pipe is about half way up into the bracket.

5 I used a clamp to pull the cross brace up to the new piece which only hits on the DS of the 4" piece. 5a Then I tacked the top of the cross brace where it contacts the bottom DS 4" piece.

6 The PS of the 4" piece had about 3/8 gap. I then heated a 1" section red hot of the cross brace DS of the 4" piece where it was just tacked. Using a clamp at the most PS end of cross brace pull the cross brace up till it touches. Then tack and weld

Step 5a & 6 could be omitted if u put the 4" piece at a matching angle to the lowered cross brace. I just opted to keep the 4" piece parallel with the factory brace... Looks like it was more intentional or factory... At least to me. It also keeps the inside PS frame rail clean.

Easy and lots o fun

View attachment 1054479
View attachment 1054480

Thanks for those details. Question...sounds like you cut the whole brace out and then heat and bent the brace. Did you do that in a vice or similar? Wouldn't have been easier to cut just the passenger bracket off, heat the drivers side and Bend it down while the drivers side is still attached?

 

[Jvoight]

Thanks for those details. Question...sounds like you cut the whole brace out and then heat and bent the brace. Did you do that in a vice or similar? Wouldn't have been easier to cut just the passenger bracket off, heat the drivers side and Bend it down while the drivers side is still attached?

I didn't cut the brace out... Just cut PS loose from bracket and heated DS to bend down...

That pipe goes thru both walls of steering box support below frame rail on driver side...

 

[Dirty Koala]

I guess I need to re-read your steps again.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

What is the reason again the brace needs to be cut?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Do you have any pics of what you did on the drivers side?

 

[Jvoight]

Since you have your off still. Is there enough meat in the housing that a hole can be drilled through it and aligned with one of the three holes on the other piece? The piece that bolts to the head.

That is one option I was looking at, the thing that I think I would like to see is two bolts 180° from each other so there will be a more balanced hold/support...

Might be able to catch one of the holes already lined up, but I'm leaning towards drilling two holes in the body 180° from each other and then tap the ring the big piece attaches to... I'm still kicking it around...

If that will work it'd be a reasonable modification that would prob give it the support it needs.

 

[Jvoight]

What is the reason again the brace needs to be cut?

To clear the oil pan.

He has made this kit to work on a completely stock non lifted 80

 

[Jvoight]

Do you have any pics of what you did on the drivers side?

Really didn't do anything other than heat it up to allow easy and a more focused bend...

 

[scottryana]

What size intercooler tubes? That's a clean way to do it. If you happen to know the width between the frame rails that would be great if not I can just take a tape outside. Lol

*** edit it is 25.5" between frame rails ***

View attachment 1054481

Inter cooler tubes in

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

So you're the one selling parts on Craigslist lol

 

[Jvoight]

So you're the one selling parts on Craigslist lol

Yeah most likely my stuff... Just have transmission left... And a bunch of smog junk!

nice to see a fellow Willamette valley guy on here!

 

[Jvoight]

So in an effort to document this build as well as possible here are a couple more mods I have made to the Diesel Adapters kit I am using...

First up DS motor mount adding the missing 4th hole.

Not sure why it's not there but I felt like I'd like to have it especially being the lower bolt... And not knowing if it was not there for clearance reasons I drilled and counter sunk for a flush mount.

 

[Jvoight]

Next mod a few guys may be interested in... for real

Not sure what exactly we are calling the part but with concern of failure (possibly on a 1000 mile road trip) of the quick mount - coolant - twist lock piece that has seen a couple failures. I pulled the trigger on attempting to add a little more confidence. I got to say the part really may not need any modification but figured this should prevent failure entirely... In regards to the tabs breaking off.

The holes were carefully located to be close to the mounting bolts of the ring piece and stay in the thickest portions of the connecting body. 8mmx70mm socket head bolts are used. Thru holes in the body and 8mm tapped holes in the ring. The ability to rotate is then lost so locate where u want it first.

My idea on the this is that the bolts are there to help share the load previously put all on the tabs. Blue loctite and a good snug on the bolts is all I'm thinking as far as tightness... Prob like inch lbs. & I'll post what I end up tightening them to.

Cheers

 

[Jvoight]

Hope to cover some ground today and get this thing clattering down the road soon. Things seem to be going good.

Motor & tranny go together today and in tomorrow. I'm pretty much out of the many little things to do.

 

[gdctaco]

So in an effort to document this build as well as possible here are a couple more mods I have made to the Diesel Adapters kit I am using...

First up DS motor mount adding the missing 4th hole.

Not sure why it's not there but I felt like I'd like to have it especially being the lower bolt... And not knowing if it was not there for clearance reasons I drilled and counter sunk for a flush mount.
View attachment 1060187View attachment 1060188

It's weird cause all my mounts came with 4 holes and like Cnorm's yours didn't. But I had no troubles with interference

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Next mod a few guys may be interested in... for real

Not sure what exactly we are calling the part but with concern of failure (possibly on a 1000 mile road trip) of the quick mount - coolant - twist lock piece that has seen a couple failures. I pulled the trigger on attempting to add a little more confidence. I got to say the part really may not need any modification but figured this should prevent failure entirely... In regards to the tabs breaking off.

The holes were carefully located to be close to the mounting bolts of the ring piece and stay in the thickest portions of the connecting body. 8mmx70mm socket head bolts are used. Thru holes in the body and 8mm tapped holes in the ring. The ability to rotate is then lost so locate where u want it first.

My idea on the this is that the bolts are there to help share the load previously put all on the tabs. Blue loctite and a good snug on the bolts is all I'm thinking as far as tightness... Prob like inch lbs. & I'll post what I end up tightening them to.


View attachment 1060189
View attachment 1060191
View attachment 1060193

Cheers

Did you drill those yourself or have a machine shop do it?