Builds My Cummins 6bt / '92 fj80 build

[Jvoight]

Did you drill those yourself or have a machine shop do it?

They were done on a milling machine in a machine shop. Approx 1hr.

That is prob the best way for keeping things accurate as u drill that length of hole. A really good quality drill press would also work.

I opted for the milling machine method because of the resources that are available to me. I work in a maintenance weld shop right next to a machine shop...

Easy deal for most any small machine shop willing to take on little 1 off jobs.

 

[Jvoight]

I also found yesterday that a 4.0 L 1992 alternator is different style than a 4.5L 1993-1997 alternator... Both are Denso. Causing a little set back on just swapping out the internals of the Cummins/Dodge alternator with the Toyota one...

A really good local starter/alternator rebuild shop is looking at them now and will probably just sell me the 93-97 internals to go into the Cummins/Dodge one... If my 1992 internals won't swap...

Lots of little details can hold things up...

 

[69rambler]

There aren't 4 holes in the driver side mount as that hole is very difficult to get a bolt in. Dodge used 3 bolts on their mounts in the 2nd gen trucks. The profile of the part looks as if it should have 4 holes, but it's that way for how it is fixtured during welding.

The 4th hole was left out to save frustration trying to install it.

 

[gdctaco]

Holy s*** look who's here!!!!!

 

[bigfj62]

Is this who I think it is????

 

[Jvoight]

There aren't 4 holes in the driver side mount as that hole is very difficult to get a bolt in. Dodge used 3 bolts on their mounts in the 2nd gen trucks. The profile of the part looks as if it should have 4 holes, but it's that way for how it is fixtured during welding.

The 4th hole was left out to save frustration trying to install it.

Thanks for the info

Edit:
As I was checking out the D.A. Motor mounts vs the stock Dodge mounts it's correct that dodge only uses 3 of the 4 available but both sides use the bottom 2 plus the rear top one... The one that is hard to get to on DS is top left... Which I had... The bottom right one it the one I was missing... So maybe mine might have been miss drilled...?

Either way not a big deal...
Whatever the case I have 4 holes now...

 

[Jvoight]

Here is another 1992 fj80 adjustment necessary for my build and lil different from the 93-97 years.

My 4.0L 3FE alternator is a different style than the 4.5L engine. So the guts don't just swap into the dodge alternator like the 4.5L does.

Local starter alternator shop made it non issue by inserting proper Toyota guts into the dodge one and even were able to put the older style round plug to match my '92 wiring (the newer ones are oval shape)

I also bought the rebuilt 1st gen starter I needed from HEI as well. Real quality parts... Good prices, great service.

Luke and the staff at Hagemeister (HEI) are top notch! Thank you!!

 

[Jvoight]

Power steering pressure hose configuration...

Plan is to cut the hose off at the power steering pump end of the one DA sent and same on the Toyota inlet end...

Then weld or braze on #6 jic ends (I think the hose and fitting shop called them buds) $1.38 for both

Then make up 1 standard #6 (3/8") jic hydraulic hose... To connect

I remember a couple of you guys switching to jic and couldn't remember how u went about it... This way or adapter fittings maybe? The guys at Willamette Hose and Fitting suggested this method... Seems like a good way.

 

[maxamillion2345]

You can buy fittings to covert both box and pump to jic -6 male fittings.

 

[maxamillion2345]

-6 x 16-1.5mm AN

-6 x 16-1.5mm Inverted Flare AN fitting

 

[gdctaco]

The return line doesn't need fittings, just clamps. I got 1 wire hydraulic hose for the pressure side.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Those are the fittings for the pressure side pump to box. Fyi

 

[maxamillion2345]

If you go with adapter fittings you won't have to worry about breaking or cracking or leaky braze.

 

[Jvoight]

So I did TIG weld these JIC male ends on to the hard line sections of both the Dodge and Toyota ends of the power steering pressure hose. Keeping the pre bent factory hard line portion on the Cummins side looks like it will make for a clean easy route to the Toyota steering box.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Mine 90s out the back of the pump, goes straight up and then straight down into the box. But either way...

The JIC ends are a good way to go.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Dont forget the oring lol, you could always order some adapter fittings for spares. 20$ insurance. I have 2 spare hoses now lol. And a spare hose for my ram.

 

[Jvoight]

Getting really close
Update and more pics here in the next day or so!!!

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Looks good. Nice and clean.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Looks good.

I could get started on mine if Dustin would send me back my wiring harness.

 

[Jvoight]

Well I'm making an effort to get this build thread caught up. I have been very patient in this build. I guess many of us know it takes longer with the family thing going on at the same time... I will document as many details as I can. I will say it is turning out as nice or nicer than I had hoped. I have used as many factory dodge wiring/connectors/relays as possible which gives a really clean factory look. Also converted to a hydro booster
So cool to turn the key and have a cummins fire up! I have some little details to finish bit it will be ready to drive as soon as I get my replacement booster... I ruined mine. Don't pump the brakes without the master cylinder attached. anyway that will be here tomorrow then as Dustin says in the kit instructions... drive your land cruiser!