my build up - rust, clearance, and protection (4 Viewers)

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Finally I have some fluid coming out of my axle tube breather when the ARB locker is engaged. Does this mean the o-ring is failing? Or is this fairly normal?

if it was me on your timeframe, I would disconnect the breather, blow it out and run it with the breather connected again - then I would disconnect the ARB line at the solenoid, then disconnect at the diff and blow it out, too - connect on both sides again, run it

this is under the assumption that the ARB otherwise locks just fine - ?
 
Awesome Ride! I am jealous of the cable conversion..haha. I'll be waiting for an update on how it performs.. Its been all great feedback so far, but if I can improve in any way I'm all ears! Let me know if I can help out with anything!:popcorn:
 
Well, I installed the cable conversion late Friday night and didn't have time to test it or adjust the cable that night. We went on a test wheelin trip early Saturday morning to a local offroad park. This was a final test to make sure my cruiser's ready for Moab (we're leaving on the 27th). Anything that needed fixed after this wheeling trip would have to be done in the next 1 1/2 weeks. I wanted to beat on it at least as much as we'd do in Moab to see if there were any obvious weak points.

Steering: About 50 miles after replacing both my box and pump, my steering feels 100% better. The first 50 miles felt about like it did before (I think I had some air in the system).
Anti-wrap bar: worked great. Seemed to help with traction. Gave me some confidence that I'm not going to break anything.
Front locker (cable conversion): We only went on one trail that needed a front locker. I got the shifter moved into the locked position, but the locker didn't engage. The cable needs adjusted. I probably shouldn't have attempted it on a trail without testing it up in the air first. I didn't drive around with it in the locked position, so I don't think I did any harm.

Tonight I lifted the front end in the air and moved the shifter into the locked position and to my surprise, it locked up. I think its barely locking up and I need to adjust the cable to engage a little deeper to get it to stay locked up under power.

I guess I'll do a little review of the cable conversion. Overall, its very high quality and well thought out. The main part that bolts to the diff is machined out of a block of aluminum. The steel pieces look laser cut. The shifter mechanism is spring loaded and has nylon bushings to reduce wear and keep it quiet (no rattles). The shifter body is TIG welded. The cable is high quality. My biggest gripe is that none of the steel is painted and is designed in such a way that the shift gate will probably scrape the paint off of the shifter if it is painted. For now, because I was in a hurry, I just sprayed it with WD40 to keep it from rusting. I'll take it apart and paint it later and maybe figure out a way to keep the shifter from scraping the paint off. So far, I'd give it 4/5 stars and I'm glad I got it. I'll reply back after I get it adjusted and I'll add some pictures.

By the way, I tested my electric actuator (after I pulled it out) and it is working, just not powerful enough to engage I suppose.
 
the little things

Well, I got a few of the little things done tonight in preparation for our big trip.

1. adjusted the cable locker. I moved the cable housing about 1/2 inch to help the locker engage deeper. It worked well with the front end up on jack stands. I may need to adjust it again on the trail. Just need to remember to take a 15/16" wrench and a crescent wrench or another 15/16". I put the shifter on the floor to my left.

2. replaced some of the bolts on the front driveshaft. I'd used some cheap hardware store bolts on the front driveshaft too. 1 was missing and the others turned out to be loose. I replaced them with the proper 11mm Toyota bolts. This seems to be way more important than I would have ever thought.

3. found a loose motor mount bolt that almost backed itself all the way out. Loosing a motor mount would not be fun on a week long wheeling trip.

4. wired in my CB finally.

next:

1. figure out why my taillights don't come on with my headlights. the blinkers and brakelights work. I never got this working with my EZ wiring harness install.
2. install another 12V outlet or two.
3. install windshield wipers? I thought I'd lost my windshield wiper parts, but I just found them. Not sure if I have time to install them and run/figure out the wiring, etc. We're leaving in a week!
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Note: in picture #2 above, there's normally a large "bolt" that contains a switch (spring loaded detent ball type) to tell the factory FZJ80 locker system when the locker is engaged. I thought it might make it harder to engage with the cable and also noticed that it was the same thread as a transfer case drain plug, so that's what I replaced it with. Just fyi in case anyone in the future is looking for info.
 
Added 3 12v outlets. Overkill I know but I had three holes in the firewall that needed filled and this seemed like a good way to do it.

Two of the holes were the right size but one was too big. I cut out some plastic washers and used them on both sides of the hole.
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Just fixed my taillights. The headlight switch wasn't wired correctly. Something else still isn't wired right so I couldn't fix my front orange lights/blinkers. But not having the front orange lights come on with the headlights isn't likely to get me pulled over.

Two more things and it's ready for Moab:

1. renew my tags (just noticed they were expired)
2. Sew in and move some straps on my bikini top. It wasn't made for my roll bar (it's a Spector Off-road family bikini top)
 
Great pictures of the cable conversion install! The cable adjustment in the beginning is probably the most time consuming portion of the 9.5" cable conversion install. After you figure out how to adjust it to where you get full engagement and disengagement it should be dialed for a while unless something gets bonked or bent on your adventures! Cheers:clap::beer:
 
Thanks Chilkat!

All, I need your help. I have a power steering problem. The replacement pump that I put on has what I think is a different style flare fitting. The threads are the same as my flared power steering line but it doesn't seal well. I only found out the problem after trying to fix a drip. I need to know the fitting specs on my pump. The pump is an optional pump from a '76 camaro. I thought all pre 1980 pumps have the same fittings. I have 3 days to figure this out!

I'd get the correct pump but it took three tries to find this one. There's about 1500 variations of these pumps (pulley shaft differences, fittings, angle of low pressure line, clocked mounting bolts that keep my bracket from working, etc).

I may just need to take it to a local hydraulic hose maker.
 
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I guess I'll just pull the pump and hose and take it to a local hydraulic hose shop. Hopefully it's standard fittings.
 
Well, I took it to a hydraulic supply house this morning and got a hose made for $30 (they didn't have an adapter). Hopefully it will work. I'm still not sure what the difference in the fittings is..
 
ok, to make a long story short, I'm an idiot and had the wrong type of fitting. Problem solved.
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Moab!

Just did Fins and Things to get warmed up. No issue yet. Such a fun trail.
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Well we did Hells Revenge in the afternoon. It was a lot of fun. 3rd time to do that trail but first in a fj40. My clutch pedal almost fell off. The pivot bolt worked itself half way out. The clutch pedal was flopping around. Scary if you'd seen where I noticed it. I was on a downhill that I was sort of sliding down.

Tightened it at the bottom of the rock. No biggie.
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More trail riding today and no problems. Moab is such an awesome place to wheel.
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Oh, on Hells Revenge yesterday, we took an optional steep part and got some spinning and wheel hop. It's a good thing I put in the anti wrap bar. It probably saved my pinion. I went up the incline just fine the first time but then I came back down (slid down) and did it again for the video camera. The second time is when I got the hop. I'll get it on YouTube and put in a link when I get back to decent internet.

Probably should've lowered the pressure in my tires...

Also got to use my lockers on the optional tip over challenge portion of the trail. I picked up a wheel about a foot for a second or two.
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We'll, due to several factors, I have decided to sell my Cruiser. :(.

You can find the ad in the classifieds.

Here's some pics just to put the proper ending to this build thread.
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And some more. I might update this thread a few more times as I take care of the little things that a potential buyer might like to be done before buying it.
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