It just up and dies... (1 Viewer)

[Squidfisher]

10/73 FJ40 stock everything engine except for a Pertronix Ignitor. Finally got it going after a couple-o-years and with choke half on and idling fast it just dies after 45 seconds/a minute or so. Flat shuts off. + term on coils stays hot, - term flashing then slowly slowly fades to off as it dies, 12v constant to idle stop solenoid even after it dies. Coil (non-resistor) not getting hot, no errant smells. Timing light hooked to coil lead flashes until it dies. Starts back up but only after much cranking and pumping accelerator pedal. Engines only need fuel, fire, and air in the right amounts and at the right time to run. When engines run out of fuel they generally sputter and miss before they die, not just shut off like a switch.
Any sage advice would be greatly appreciated.
What am I missing???

 

[CruiserInProgress]

10/73 FJ40 stock everything engine except for a Pertronix Ignitor. Finally got it going after a couple-o-years and with choke half on and idling fast it just dies after 45 seconds/a minute or so. Flat shuts off. + term on coils stays hot, - term flashing then slowly slowly fades to off as it dies, 12v constant to idle stop solenoid even after it dies. Coil (non-resistor) not getting hot, no errant smells. Timing light hooked to coil lead flashes until it dies. Starts back up but only after much cranking and pumping accelerator pedal. Engines only need fuel, fire, and air in the right amounts and at the right time to run. When engines run out of fuel they generally sputter and miss before they die, not just shut off like a switch.
Any sage advice would be greatly appreciated.
What am I missing???

Sounds like you've touched on and eliminated a lot of possible issues.

Based on what you've done so far, your symptoms seem like they might be fuel related? Have you checked for constant fuel level in the sight glass? Maybe you're not getting sufficient fuel flow for some reason.

Check:

- fuel filter
- clogged fuel lines
- weak fuel pump (check for smell of leaking gas in crankcase)
- fuel cut valve is clean
- carb is setup properly per the FSM
- also check for vacuum leaks, a common issue that requires choke to run

I recently got my 79 running after sitting for years. There was a lot of varnish in the tank, tank pickup and supply lines. Took a while to clean and blow lines until they worked properly.

As a test, after it dies suddenly as you have indicated, but won't start easily you might see if it pops right away with fuel sprayed into your carb. That would eliminate ignition as the culprit.

 

[Squidfisher]

Sounds like you've touched on and eliminated a lot of possible issues.

Based on what you've done so far, your symptoms seem like they might be fuel related? Have you checked for constant fuel level in the sight glass? Maybe you're not getting sufficient fuel flow for some reason.

Check:

- fuel filter
- clogged fuel lines
- weak fuel pump (check for smell of leaking gas in crankcase)
- fuel cut valve is clean
- carb is setup properly per the FSM
- also check for vacuum leaks, a common issue that requires choke to run

I recently got my 79 running after sitting for years. There was a lot of varnish in the tank, tank pickup and supply lines. Took a while to clean and blow lines until they worked properly.

That's all good info but usually when an engine starves for fuel, i.e., clogged filter, low float, etc., they stumble & miss horribly before they die. This just shuts off like I turned off the key. I did some more digging and the idle stop solenoid is externally grounded, the exposed wire is pretty ragged and the insulation is all crumbly. So, I will investigate that more fully as well. I had the choke 1/2 way on just to get a fast idle to get it up to operating temperature quicker in order to flush the cooling system and it idled @ 750 just fine. As re: the gas, I'm sure what as in it - a 1/4 tank or so - was a bit yucky so I filled it up with brand new gas last week. The 1/4 tank it had got Sta-Bil put in it last year. Good info, dude. I truly appreciate your input.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

That's all good info but usually when an engine starves for fuel, i.e., clogged filter, low float, etc., they stumble & miss horribly before they die. This just shuts off like I turned off the key. I did some more digging and the idle stop solenoid is externally grounded, the exposed wire is pretty ragged and the insulation is all crumbly. So, I will investigate that more fully as well. I had the choke 1/2 way on just to get a fast idle to get it up to operating temperature quicker in order to flush the cooling system and it idled @ 750 just fine. As re: the gas, I'm sure what as in it - a 1/4 tank or so - was a bit yucky so I filled it up with brand new gas last week. The 1/4 tank it had got Sta-Bil put in it last year. Good info, dude. I truly appreciate your input.

I added another paragraph to my first post suggesting spraying a little fresh gas into the carb after it dies as a test.

About the old fuel, I also topped off the 1/4 tank of on my 79 with fresh gas like you. Unfortunately, the gunk and varnish was still in the tank and lines. I ended up draining it all and flushing several times, running carb cleaner through the lines back into the tank. Hopefully, yours isn't that bad. It wasn’t a fun job.

 

[Suntreemcanic]

Sounds like a weak fuel pump.

 

[pb4ugo]

We ran a petronics unit in our boat. Once the engine warmed up and ran for a while it would idle OK but once we started coming off idle it would stumble like it was running out of fuel. We tried everything, finally we put the points set back in it and has run fine for the last 2 or 3 yrs.

 

[sleepycruiser]

When I rebuilt my fuel pump I didn’t have the diaphragm seated all the way down and my symptoms were what you describe. Wouldn’t start…just turned over. Put gas in the carb and it would start and immediately die like a switch turned off. Took it apart and put it back together correctly and voila. So it might be your fuel pump.

Easy test is I bought a $10 electric fuel pump on Amazon and put it just before the carb (I just left it in-line with the existing fuel pump) and it would run forever….remove it and it would die. That pointed to the fuel pump.

So you might have a diaphragm on the way out.

This is the kit for your year and Cruiser Cult was AWESOME with customer service when I had my install issues.

FJ40 fuel pump rebuild kit

High quality made in Japan rebuild kits for your FJ40/FJ45/FJ55 Land Cruiser mechanical fuel pump! Toyota stopped selling the rebuild kits for these pumps. We are very pleased to offer these affordable and complete kits to bring your pump back up to perfect working order. The kits include all...

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[sogafarm]

I just solved my running issue and it was the solenoid not getting a full 12 volts. Check that your getting that and you can unscrew the solenoid and test that with a lead to the battery and ground the solenoid to the body. Should see instant if it is working. I only had one wire to it from the harness. It solved my carburetor woes when I found out that it had been hooked up to the wrong lead.

 

[45Dougal]

Gas tank vent blocked? Try removing the filler cap. Easy and quick test.

Have you the tried draining the float bowl? Could be water trapped in the bottom

Try to use gas at a faster rate - pump the pedal and use full choke - does it die faster?

 

[Squidfisher]

We ran a petronics unit in our boat. Once the engine warmed up and ran for a while it would idle OK but once we started coming off idle it would stumble like it was running out of fuel. We tried everything, finally we put the points set back in it and has run fine for the last 2 or 3 yrs.

You might be on to something there. I've installed many, many Pertronix Ignitors but on two installs they just would not work. Never could figure it out.

 

[Squidfisher]

Gas tank vent blocked? Try removing the filler cap. Easy and quick test.

Have you the tried draining the float bowl? Could be water trapped in the bottom

Try to use gas at a faster rate - pump the pedal and use full choke - does it die faster?

Good call. I haven't tried yanking the choke out or pumping the pedal, as when it dies I was out under the hood looking at diagnostic equipment, not in the driver seat. I'll try that!!!

 

[Squidfisher]

I just solved my running issue and it was the solenoid not getting a full 12 volts. Check that your getting that and you can unscrew the solenoid and test that with a lead to the battery and ground the solenoid to the body. Should see instant if it is working. I only had one wire to it from the harness. It solved my carburetor woes when I found out that it had been hooked up to the wrong lead.

I removed the solenoid - screws weren't tight enough and ground is under one-o-the mounting screws - and tested it directly to the battery posts. Nice solid click. The ground lead was sketchy so I cleaned up the terminal and will reattach and see if there's any joy.

 

[Squidfisher]

Y'all are good! I did as suggested. After I re-installed the idle solenoid with a much more positive ground I got it running at a fast idle and stayed in the driver seat and waited 'til it started to die. No amount of pumping or yanking the choke out kept it from dying. If the fuel pump can't refill the float bowl when it's at a fast idle it'll just shut off like a switch, no stumbling or sputtering. I shall heed the advice re: fuel pump problem and head down that rabbit hole. Thanks y'all!!!