My bruised LX470 (1 Viewer)

[cofeecat]

Hello everyone!
This is my first post here after years of lurking and learning from this forum. I wish it was all good news but currently the only good news I have is that I finally have a 100 series!
Last week after countless searches on classifieds, bids on BAT, pointless facebook messages and test drives; I landed on what looked like a great 2006 LX470 with close to 300k miles with absolutely zero rust, healthy working AHC and a clean interior for the right price. It performed flawlessly on the test drive on a very hot day and I decided to buy it. Only things not working were the power tilt and telescopic functions which I figured I could fix if it bothered me at a later date. The timing belt has another 20k left in it and with the kind of miles I put on my cars; it wouldn't be an issue for a long time. It also had a brand new radiator (aftermarket) so I figured it's been cared for well by a loving family.
But that's where the good bits ended.
The very next day when I was driving it back home; it developed a severe misfire and a slight overheat (two clicks over). Pulled over immediately and decided to leave it parked overnight at a workshop that would take a look at it the next day.
Diagnosis? 3 spark plugs were finger tight on the passenger side and two coils were bad. Replaced the coils and was given a clean bill of health for the drive back home.
They mentioned the coils on the driver's side were cracked slightly but weren't an issue at the moment. Decided to just buy some coils and leave them in the truck in case I need to replace down the line; probably will replace the six remaining soon just to be safe.
On the drive home I blew the driver's side rear tire (TOYO Opencountry) and decided to just get the stock size Michelin on all four corners the same day.
New tires on; rig was super happy but developed a slight overheat on the drive back from the tire shop. Decided to get a new thermostat and gasket to see if that fixes it.
Thermostat replaced, system burped, car seemed super happy again! Drove about four miles and it was perfect.
Decided to end my little test drive and was climbing up the hill to my house and all of a sudden the radiator blew the entire top off. Temp needle was bang in the middle which threw me off completely but I was able to nurse it home without the needle climbimg past the 3/4th mark on the gauge.
Dishearened; I parked it in the garage and came back to the forums to see what it could be and that's where we are now.
I've ordered a new Mishimoto (MMRAD-LCR-99) radiator and OEM hoses already.
They get here on tuesday and as soon as I have them installed. I'll test for a bad head gasket using a block tester.
I've already looked at the oil (looks good) and checked if the exhaust is blowing white (it isn't).
Is there anything else I could do?
I'm afraid the car was severely overheated when the original radiator failed on the previous owner (could explain the finger tight plugs) but I'm not sure. They seemed like very genuine people and I feel like it would have been brought up but I might be being naive.
Even though the truck has been acting up severely; I absolutely love it and want to put another 300k happy miles on it and more. So any help would be greatly appreciated!
If I can't tackle this myself; I'd also like to know if there are any recommended shops around the Asheville (NC) area that could work on it. I'm only here for six months at a time and would hate for it to sit while I'm away and I have till the end of August to fix it myself.
I look forward to sharing my story here over the coming years, hopefully more good than bad!

 

[T4R2TLC]

Loose spark plugs are common on these motors (check out the thread started by @2001LC on the topic) so I wouldn't attribute those to an overheating situation. I can't say the odds of damage due to overheating, but if there are no telltale signs (smoke, mixed oil/coolant, etc) then I'd replace the radiator and run it.

 

[rexington14]

Agreed. Blown head gasket is typically fairly obvious. It usually won't run right, and you will be losing coolant. Oil milkshake, white smoke from tailpipe (not condensation), bubbling in radiator, continuous overheating are other things to look for. If you don't see obvious signs of any of this I wouldn't worry about it.

Just because the vehicle overheated doesn't mean the engine is destroyed. Especially if it gets noticed and shut down quickly

 

[3_puppies]

check the heater "T"s while doing the radiator, I'd probably just replace them for peace of mind.

 

[David310]

I would use new OEM clamps on radiator hoses and new OEM radiator cap. The Mishimoto cap creates too much pressure.

 

[2001LC]

Hello everyone!
This is my first post here after years of lurking and learning from this forum. I wish it was all good news but currently the only good news I have is that I finally have a 100 series!
Last week after countless searches on classifieds, bids on BAT, pointless facebook messages and test drives; I landed on what looked like a great 2006 LX470 with close to 300k miles with absolutely zero rust, healthy working AHC and a clean interior for the right price. It performed flawlessly on the test drive on a very hot day and I decided to buy it. Only things not working were the power tilt and telescopic functions which I figured I could fix if it bothered me at a later date. The timing belt has another 20k left in it and with the kind of miles I put on my cars; it wouldn't be an issue for a long time. It also had a brand new radiator (aftermarket) so I figured it's been cared for well by a loving family.
But that's where the good bits ended.
The very next day when I was driving it back home; it developed a severe misfire and a slight overheat (two clicks over). Pulled over immediately and decided to leave it parked overnight at a workshop that would take a look at it the next day.
Diagnosis? 3 spark plugs were finger tight on the passenger side and two coils were bad. Replaced the coils and was given a clean bill of health for the drive back home.
They mentioned the coils on the driver's side were cracked slightly but weren't an issue at the moment. Decided to just buy some coils and leave them in the truck in case I need to replace down the line; probably will replace the six remaining soon just to be safe.
On the drive home I blew the driver's side rear tire (TOYO Opencountry) and decided to just get the stock size Michelin on all four corners the same day.
New tires on; rig was super happy but developed a slight overheat on the drive back from the tire shop. Decided to get a new thermostat and gasket to see if that fixes it.
Thermostat replaced, system burped, car seemed super happy again! Drove about four miles and it was perfect.
Decided to end my little test drive and was climbing up the hill to my house and all of a sudden the radiator blew the entire top off. Temp needle was bang in the middle which threw me off completely but I was able to nurse it home without the needle climbimg past the 3/4th mark on the gauge.
Dishearened; I parked it in the garage and came back to the forums to see what it could be and that's where we are now.
I've ordered a new Mishimoto (MMRAD-LCR-99) radiator and OEM hoses already.
They get here on tuesday and as soon as I have them installed. I'll test for a bad head gasket using a block tester.
I've already looked at the oil (looks good) and checked if the exhaust is blowing white (it isn't).
Is there anything else I could do?
I'm afraid the car was severely overheated when the original radiator failed on the previous owner (could explain the finger tight plugs) but I'm not sure. They seemed like very genuine people and I feel like it would have been brought up but I might be being naive.
Even though the truck has been acting up severely; I absolutely love it and want to put another 300k happy miles on it and more. So any help would be greatly appreciated!
If I can't tackle this myself; I'd also like to know if there are any recommended shops around the Asheville (NC) area that could work on it. I'm only here for six months at a time and would hate for it to sit while I'm away and I have till the end of August to fix it myself.
I look forward to sharing my story here over the coming years, hopefully more good than bad!

First, welcome to the family!

The dash water temp gauge, is not a good indicator of actual ECT (Engine Coolant Temp). It will sit near 1/2 mark (normal op temp), while ECT is fluctuating perhaps 30F. When it reads, at 1/4 or 1/3 (cool), yet engine is warmed up. We typically don't have much if any cabin heat (HVAC). Coolant system, is likely very low.

If while engine cold, we look inside radiator. Coolant should be to the top (neck) under radiator cap. When to low, say just at or below fins, seen when radiator cap off. Coolant is also below water temperature sensor (WTS). The WTS, is then trying to read air temp, which is does not do well. We can actual be running very hot, and see gauge read below 1/2 mark. Then, as engine overheats. Coolant expands, reaching the WTS. Suddenly we read hot or overheating on dash water temp gauge.

The Radiator cap, controls pressure in the coolant system. If cap stick, internal coolant system pressure raise. This will result blowing a radiators plastic, hose, ieees, gaskets, etc.. Whatever is weakest point, excessive pressure will find it, resulting in leak or blowing that part. Note: When a new radiator is installed, I always: R&R upper & lower rad hoses, thermostat & gasket, rad cap and all coolant in system. I use only OEM and make sure jiggle valve of thermostat at top.

In addition to low coolant, there's other issue that result in overheating. Such as weak fan clutch, clogged radiator fins (bugs, grasses, cottonwood, feathers, duct, nud, ect..), stuck closed thermostat or cap. Keep in mind we have 3 radiators (oil cooler, condenser (AC) and engine coolant). Which any of which can clogged restick air flow and hold in heat.

We can also have, blockages in coolant system. This are mostly from service work performed, wherein some left a rag or forgien object in the coolant system passages. Happens more than one would think!

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

At 300K miles and humid climate. The filter in you S.A.I. pump, likely disintegrated long ago. S.A.I. system, CATs, A/F & o2 sensors, MAF all need to be inspected. These may have been altered with aftermarket parts, to fool smog system.

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

I would use new OEM clamps on radiator hoses and new OEM radiator cap. The Mishimoto cap creates too much pressure.

What I don't like about the Mishimoto. Is the cap neck is Subaru design. It's a deeper neck than out Toyota radiator cap designed for. As such, the Toyota cap is not advised. The Toyota cap will fit, but the sealing tension in bottom of neck, is reduced. So it may not function properly.

Yet no warning on radiator. It should say (permanently marked) on radiator, "USE ONLY MISHIMOTO CAP" . Their cap, is set to release pressure ~2 PSI higher than our systems are design for. So no warning to use their cap and higher release pressure, is why I don't recommend.
Pressure = heat. Heat.

 

[cofeecat]

Thanks everyone for the encouraging words and input!
I have an update:
Mishimoto rad came in, opened the box a few days after it arrived since the new radiator hoses took a little longer than the radiator to arrive.
The radiator fins were about 10% damaged. Not too bad, could have bent them back but didn't expect this on a $500 premium product that has a lifetime warranty on it. It also had a tiny piece of aluminium sticking out of one of the fins.
It also looked like a few fins towards the top were slightly curved as if the person welding the tank on realised they have more space than they realised to work with. Almost like spacing out your handwriting a little towards the end of a line after starting off cramped. Looked 'fine' again but didn't want to risk it on something I want to be as reliable as possible. It also didn't have a serial number on the plate (plate was hidden on the bottom unlike in the pictures on the site where it is on the side of the rad). I ordered off of Amazon but double and triple checked if it was the official Mishimoto page and it was.
Decided to return it and just went down to the local Toyota dealer to order an OEM rad. Expensive but worth the peace of mind I figure.
This way it will be easier to diagnose if there are any further issues as well since an "upgraded" radiator might hide something wrong in the short term.
Already have a replacement cap, thermostat and gasket waiting to go on as well. Will flush the system a few times since I don't know if it was OEM coolant in there to begin with either. It's goimg to be a long weekend!
Will update soon! Thanks again

Posting a few pictures just to show everyone what I got with the Mishimoto MMRAD-LCR-99

 

[Rhetoric]

Those non-aluminum Mishimoto radiators are just the same junk that all the aftermarkets pump out. And the aluminum ones are just more rando Chinese parts.

The T.Rad radiators these trucks came with last a long, long time. Especially if you follow Toyota’s coolant change intervals.

Welcome to the group!

 

[cofeecat]

Another update!
I installed the new radiator, main lines and thermostat + gasket (everything OEM); and all went well.
Filled up on the Toyota coolant, burped the system as well as I could before even starting it up and then with a no spill funnel, I let the car warm up to running temp without the coolant level ever falling below the top of the radiator.
The overflow reservoir was kept at max level as well.
Continued to run the engine for about 10 minutes and everything seemed to be fine so I let it cool down and went for a test drive in the evening.
While driving I noticed the temp gauge was creeping up and the vents started to blow cold air again (was set to full hot on both the front and back just to make sure it was burped completely).
Stopped immediately and turned the engine off. Temp needle kept climbing so I checked if I was loosing coolant and didn't see even a minor leak.
Got back in and started the engine again only to see the temps now coming back down. Gave it a slight rev to 2k and the vents immediately started blowing hot air again and the needle fell to the middle of the gauge. Drove back home without any issues.
Left the car overnight and in the morning the hoses felt a little hard as if they were holding pressure so I opened the cap and some pressure did release.
Level of coolant was above the fins.
Took it for another drive and it did exactly the same thing again!
Now I feel a little lost. Do i have a massive air pocket in my cooling system?
Failing water pump? (72k since replaced)
Blockage in the heater core maybe?

Any help would be appreciated as always. Thanks for reading!

 

[94SRUNNER]

Sounds like you still have air in the system. When you bled the system did you have the front end elevated?

Another thing, was the jigle valve on the thermostat at the ~12 o'clock position?

 

[cofeecat]

Yes I made sure the giggle valve is positioned at 12 o'clock. Even double checked after I put the housing back on.
Looks like I do have a bad head gasket. I ran the engine for about a minute while continuously pumping on the block tester and it did eventually turn slightly yellow. The leak is tiny but it's there. Which is probably why it runs so good and doesn't even present itself unless there is some real load on the engine.
I live on a hill so driving up after testing is really the only time it shows itself by building pressure in the system. Just my luck!

Now the question is, when I'm replacing the head gaskets on this, what else should I replace as a while I'm there practice?
What I have so far is:
Timing belt and water pump.
Accesory belt
Cam seals
All nuts and bolts that are one time use.
Gaskets (Intake, exhaust, throttle body)
Starter motor (even though this one starts faster than most of the 100s I've seen online)
Probably fan mount as well.

I'm only going to be in the US for another month or so. That's all the time I'll have to fix it myself unfortunately.
As a plan B, I'm still looking for a good shop that can work on it right.
I found some unplugged hoses under the hood while replacing the radiator and that is the kind of thing I'm most afraid of with a shop that doesn't work on these on a regular basis. Any inputs here would be of great help!

Will update again when I have some good news this time.
Also realised I haven't posted a picture of what the LX looks like! Looks incredible for a 300k vehicle. Just doesn't run quite right. haha!

 

[rexington14]

I wouldn't rely solely on the block tester liquid color. I'd get a compression test done and/or a leak down test before condemning the head gasket.

You could also pull the spark plugs out and get a borescope to look into each cylinder to look for a piston(s) that is steamed clean and shiny looking compared to the engine's other pistons.

If it really is confirmed as a blown head gasket some choose to do an engine swap

 

[94SRUNNER]

I second what @rexington14 stated, I would get a leak down test and compression test at a reputable shop.

You could always reach out to Trollhole Cruisers (511 Palmetto Dr #7, Simpsonville, SC 29681), they are about 80-90 mins south of you. He has a very reputable Cruiser shop. Trollhole's Cruisers - https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/trollholes-cruisers.239/

Here is a list of Cruiser mechanics - CRUISER MECHANICS - Listed by State - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cruiser-mechanics-listed-by-state.349535/

 

[2001LC]

I third, further testing. ^^^^

Compression and borescope. By pulling each spark plug and inspecting them, you can usually see signs on them of which cylinder has the leak.

If head gasket leaking, it usually from overheating. Signs of this may be swollen water hoses and discoloration of them and block and/or other parts. Typically I find a signs of leak externally at/around head gasket also. Very often these external leaks, clue of a warped head

Often times the coolant reservoir hose or cap, has a clog. Or curd found in res.

What I'd be looking for, is condition of cylinder(s). If one found bad (excessive scoring), I replace engine.

If cylinders good and doing head gasket job. Head bolts need to be within spec. Even if they are in spec, consider replacing them, if only replacing one banks head gasket. They're stretch to torque bolts. The second time used, they tend to hold tighter (stretch less). So if only one head done, it tends to have higher compression, with reused head bolts. This can result in slight rough idle and can result in variation on fuel trim from bank to bank.

Signs of Warp head and high heat (discoloration of block).

 

[2001LC]

Coolant in cylinder, steam cleans.

Cylinder walls get damaged

 

[cofeecat]

Thank you for the pictures of what to look out for!
As I previously mentioned; I'm only here for another week or so (in the states) so I decided to have Toyota do the job instead of tackling it myself and taking up space potentially for months in my family garage.
The quote for a head gasket job was reasonable with parts and labour at 3100 so I decided to go that route.
Unfortunately when the heads came off, it looks like they were warped beyond the maximum allowed 0.1mm (it is at 0.12 on the driver side and 0.14 on passenger).
From what I've seen online you can machine the head up to 0.1mm.
Does that mean you can machine it if the worst warped area is at 0.1mm?
Or does it mean you can machine it a maximum of 0.1 to bring the total warpage down to below 0.1?
For instance in this case if we do machine the head by 0.1 and bring the total warpage to 0.02 and 0.04; does that work to be within the spec?
Thank you all again for the help. I really want to keep this LX on the road since it is in such good condition other than this. It should survive!