My auction find Collectors edition
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- #22
Busy day, Chinese seats are a no go. Side bolstering makes the improved leg room seem “not worth it.” The factory seat has been reinstalled. I’m sure for someone with a sub 36 inch waist, they’d be killer. (For sale for $200 so I don’t have to ship them back)
Rain guards installed in the rain, could say the activity was quite fitting.
Found out I save 20% or so on list price at the Toyota dealer due to my employer’s account. Two oil filters and a drain plug were in stock and came out to less than $17. Distributor, coils, wires, plugs and intake air filter arrive tomorrow, $190. New calipers, pads, rotors and emergency brake components will be arriving at some point, all 4 corners for $1,600. I’ve been ordering what I believe to be real OEM Toyota online, but glad I am able to source locally without taking a huge financial hit.
Rain guards installed in the rain, could say the activity was quite fitting.
Found out I save 20% or so on list price at the Toyota dealer due to my employer’s account. Two oil filters and a drain plug were in stock and came out to less than $17. Distributor, coils, wires, plugs and intake air filter arrive tomorrow, $190. New calipers, pads, rotors and emergency brake components will be arriving at some point, all 4 corners for $1,600. I’ve been ordering what I believe to be real OEM Toyota online, but glad I am able to source locally without taking a huge financial hit.
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- #24
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- #26
Diagnosing why I have no indication of the transfer case being in 4L.
Also, A/T P only indicates on the dash when that corresponding plug is jumped, assuming sensor is bad. I don’t foresee that being part of the problem; new one is in route. It was an indicator I didn’t know I had.
If I jump the sensor connector for low range, I hear actuators/actuator sounding noise. Still no illumination, nor locker engagement. I filmed the gauge cluster to see if it just lost continuity before I climbed up and around.
15 A fuse is fine and has power.
No ABS or CDL illumination on cluster.
Front and rear differential lights flash when selector is turned and won’t engage.
Transmission indicator on the dash does not illuminate transmission neutral. But, you can start it in neutral and not in other gears (besides park)
Gearing reduction side of 4L seems to work as intended.
I’m no master mechanic, what I’ve done so far is from what I’ve gathered from other posts.
Also, A/T P only indicates on the dash when that corresponding plug is jumped, assuming sensor is bad. I don’t foresee that being part of the problem; new one is in route. It was an indicator I didn’t know I had.
If I jump the sensor connector for low range, I hear actuators/actuator sounding noise. Still no illumination, nor locker engagement. I filmed the gauge cluster to see if it just lost continuity before I climbed up and around.
15 A fuse is fine and has power.
No ABS or CDL illumination on cluster.
Front and rear differential lights flash when selector is turned and won’t engage.
Transmission indicator on the dash does not illuminate transmission neutral. But, you can start it in neutral and not in other gears (besides park)
Gearing reduction side of 4L seems to work as intended.
I’m no master mechanic, what I’ve done so far is from what I’ve gathered from other posts.
Front and rear lockers will not engage unless the transfer case locks. does the transfer case lock light flash ?
It very well could be that sensor. You may need to be driving for the center lock to engage.
It very well could be that sensor. You may need to be driving for the center lock to engage.
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- #28
Neither ABS or center lock light illuminate at all. Even with the plug jumped, I do hear the CDL actuator when I jump the plug, but still no illumination.
$4650 to $24,500. Dang.
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- #30
I’m into it in the middle teens now. Everyone likes to haggle, I don’t foresee a profit if I were to sell tomorrow tbh.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
If you can hear the CDL actuator, it may just be a bad bulb on the dash cluster.
Quickest way to verify if the lockers will engage is find an open space (Walmart parking lot etc), select LO range, tin the magic dial, drive in s slooow circle. If the lockers are functional, they'll lock before you complete a half circle IME.
To get them to disengage, turn the dial back to OFF, slowly drive straight. You may need to slip the auto into neutral while rolling to unload the drive train
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Lots of us 6'6"+.
Extented seat brackets are available, or retrofit some other OEM seats.
Check out the "seat swap" thread for ideas
Not if the center lock is not locking.
When I'm working on mine I like to jack up one wheel and spin it. If the locker is working it's only a small amount of movement and she will lock up
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So for a quick fix (if it works) some people "revive" the switch (top front of the transfer case) by removing the switch
working the ball up and down aggressively, cleaning all the contacts (contact cleaner or Deoxit) then reinstalling.
You can also check the switch for continuity, ball pressed in, ball out.
Here's a similar type of switch on a 3rd Gen 4Runner, start watching at 1:00
(transfer case is obviously different)
Here's a more comprehensive approach specifically for the US spec FZJ80 Transfer case:
working the ball up and down aggressively, cleaning all the contacts (contact cleaner or Deoxit) then reinstalling.
You can also check the switch for continuity, ball pressed in, ball out.
Here's a similar type of switch on a 3rd Gen 4Runner, start watching at 1:00
(transfer case is obviously different)
Here's a more comprehensive approach specifically for the US spec FZJ80 Transfer case:
ppc
M Go Blue
When you request help be very precise in how you describe the problem and what you have tried. When you state "when I jump the plug". The transfer case has three plugs. Which of the three are you referring to? From what you described you only touched the two switches/sensors on the rear extension.
If you are hearing relays, actuators when you are jumping "the plug", Then you are jumping the connector at the rear of the transfer case (4LOW position sensor). The CDL and ABS dash light are controlled by the "CDL indicator switch" at the top front of the transfer case. That is most likely your problem. Pull that connector and short the terminals. That should light both lights immediately. If that works replace the sensor.
You need to do more reading. I guessing that there are 1,000 threads in this forum on the subject. That and the FSM should be read to get a better understanding of the CDL and transfer case. It's actually very simple operation of how the transfer case and cdl and front and rear lockers function.
In our Land Cruisers, unlike some other 4-wheel drive vehicles, the switching to low range is a completely mechanical operation using the lever on the console. The electrical connections are only for sensors and actuators.
alia176
SILVER Star
I disconnected my 4low sensor so that the transmission shifts into OD during 4low operation. I'm part time so my CDL sw brings in the front DS.
I don't have factory lockers so what I'm hearing is that you can't engage the lockers until the ECU thinks you're in 4low or the CDL sw is engaged?
I don't have factory lockers so what I'm hearing is that you can't engage the lockers until the ECU thinks you're in 4low or the CDL sw is engaged?
This is correct.
ppc
M Go Blue
Yes, that is correct. Specifically the CDL indicator switch sensor has an input into the front/rear locker ECU. Even if the transfer is in low and locked the CDL indicator switch must be working properly for front and rear lockers to work. If a CDL dash switch has been added then this would apply to high range.
