My 97 LX450 Rebirth/rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Threads
92
Messages
5,505
Location
Langley BC
Well I have had this 80 for about 3 months now. I have not had it on the road yet other than the trip home and to and from the body shop.

I will start with a brief run down of what I got. I had been looking for a 80 for a bout a month after selling my 93 SAS 4runner. I had started looking for a Diesel 60 (HJ or BJ) but all of them were to far gone in the frame and body areas.

I looked at 5-6 80's in my area all were US imports (80 series LC were not sold in Canada). Of that a few were LX450's (us imposts as well). The LX450 was sold in Canada for 96-97 and all were equipped with the lockers.

After looking at a few all in the 9-10K range from 91-97 40th's I was resigned to the fact that I was going to be looking for some time. All were not locked and a locked truck was something I wanted for sure.

I looked on the local craigs list one morning and saw a 97 LX 450 listed for $3000 OBO. I called right away (5min after it was posted) and asked a few questions....how much millage (thinking it was a US import) he said its got 254kms.......ok is there a dial beside he steering wheel that says "diff lock"?.....he goes to garage and yes it does.

I head out the door 5min later with $500 in hand a down payment and pick up my dad on the way. 15min later I am there looking at the truck. He did say it was in rough shape, missing rear flairs and rear bumper damage. He was right it was in tough shape but over all was all there. It started after sitting for 6 months with nothing other than a jump. No smoke or dramas, no misses or funny noises. I checked the coolant over flow for bubbles and there was none, coolant looked good but a bit low 1/2 in down from cap. Oil was clean and no milk, oil cap after running for a few min had a bit of white but it was 3C out and the truck had not been run in 6 months.

Take it for a drive and all is well. Good power, better than some I had driven. Put it in 4lo and got no CDL or ABS light......told him that was a problem but moved on. its got a bit of rust at first look mainly the rear gates and drivers lower quarter and a small spot by windshield.

I got back and found out it was his GF truck that she got 8 years ago and had driven from 90km to 254kms. No service history other than "she changed the oil every 5000kms". SO a bit of a gamble there.

I offered $2k and got it for $2500, over all I knew it was a good starting point and I like projects. Looking at the other LX450's I looked at unlocked with zero service history and asking $9k with more millage I think I did ok.

In the last 3 months I have got all the body work and paint done (did the body work myself with the help of my dad) I also got rust free upper and lower gates of Bowser (thanks again man). The paint was done by a local shop, we prepped and masked and he laid the paint. I'm not looking to make this truck a show stopper or mall cruiser. I use my trucks and this one will be no different, I just wanted to eliminate the rust and make it look decent.

I have also got 3 boxes of OEM Toyota, maintenance and PM stuff waiting to go on. I have a SGII, GT seat covers and Husky lines as well waiting, CDL switch, Slee battery kit, Castor bushings and OME 2.5" lift.

I did a NAPA head gasket test about a month ago and it was clear. apron getting the truck home and starting on the maintenance this weekend I found that the HG is gone on it and leaking externally towards the back of the head on the exhaust side.

So stage two of this rebirth is a head gasket job. Unexpected but at least now I know its going to be solid for years to come. I have the head part way off now, just working on the intake manifold. I'm trying to keep as much of it together as possible and just push it out of the way to lift the head. I hope tonight to have most of that done and start on the cam removal/ head removal.

If the head is straight I am just going to clean it up and reinstall. It runs great and has no valve train noise as it is. I may change the valve seals at the same time but am not sure yet. If it is warped I will send it out for a full re and re. I also plan on sending the injectors out to get cleaned and tested at the same time.

Other things on the list are front axle rebuild, front main and oil pump O ring, Rear main.....some day, oil pan reseal and new used front cats and Y pipe.

That will get all the maintenance and PM out of the way I hope, then I can work on the 2.5" OME lift and 315's.

:cheers:
 
Let the games begin.

Night I picked it up.

Changing headlight and marker bulb.
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Rear damage, bumper end cap and flair (flair also missing on other side as well).
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Dirty engine bay:
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Clean engine bay:
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The rust you see there is the inner wheel wells and they are getting replaced, I have the replacements already just not high on the list right now:
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Starting point:
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Closeup of rust:
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Cut open for inspection.....yep gonna need some work:

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Rear roof support base has some too (just surface):
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Inner wheel well will need to get a section cut out as well:
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Some other angles of what I was working with:

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Back corner were there was some poor body work....all cut out:
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Rust does not go any higher than this into the wheel well...thankfully:
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Starting the inner panel removal:
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Wire wheeled off most the surface rust:
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New inner well ready to go in:
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New outer ready to go in...rust free:
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Inner wheel well and bottom edge of inner quarter welded and sealed with POR15. Later sealed with 3M seam sealer.
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All the rust was sandblasted prior to the POR15:
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Inner all cleaned up and painted (will be 3m seam sealed and bed lined later):
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Start the spot welding (take your time fitting the panels, I spent more time doing this that anything else) taking your time here pays off in the end with minimal filler and a quality finish.
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3 hours later....
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Lots of evenly spaced spot welds to keep the metal from warping.

I have done virtually the same on the other side but did not take pictures as I was wanting just to focus on getting it done.
 
One last thing, I did a cold compression test on it before I pulled it all apart.

1) 160
2) 165
3) 170
4) 165
5) 170
6) 165

All good there at least!

I have not taken any pictures of the truck since it got back from paint but will once I have the HG and stuff all done and can get it back together.
 
Looking good!
 
If you are looking for a rear bump, see Jason at Cruisin Off Road out in Chiliwac. I gave him mine after he installed my new rear bumper. Might give you a deal. You're doing a great job on the restoration.
 
If you are looking for a rear bump, see Jason at Cruisin Off Road out in Chiliwac. I gave him mine after he installed my new rear bumper. Might give you a deal. You're doing a great job on the restoration.

Yes I plan on going to Jason for my sliders when that times comes. As for the rear bumper I am getting a DIY 4x4 labs, I have built rear bumpers before and like the idea of assembling and modding mine the way I want it. I also plan on getting Jason's center diff skid plate.

I have a whole list of mods and parts that I have been putting together over the last 3 months. I did not list it all as I did not want to make a huge first post, as it is most people will only skim what is there.

As I move on from the body work and HG job I will get into a bit more detail on the direction of the build and parts involved.
 
Is it very common to have the HG on these leak external? Mine is not leaking in the the oil or collant/ no mixing. No Cumbustion gasses in the coolant. I just have about 6" on the side of the head under the exhaust manifold seeping coolant.

Anyone else had one fail like this?
 
Wow, I thought I had problems with the rust at the bottom corner near my rear DS flare.
 
Wow, I thought I had problems with the rust at the bottom corner near my rear DS flare.

The passenger side did not have any perforation but when I opened it upthere was lots. If you have a bit once you get into it there will be easy 5 to 6 times more there than you think.
 
Nice body work...

and sorry to be off topic but, Nice Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce

Thanks

The Alfa spider is my dads, it had far worse rust than this 80 and was a 2 year restoration. 6 years later and its still rust free.
 
A few pictures to keep this alive for all you people that need visual stimuli.

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I now have the head all stripped down other than removing the timing chain and cams.

Here is a picture of the HG leak. The oil is from the Valve cover but there is a distinctive line of coolant running down from right under the #6 exhaust port. Cant really see it in the pictures, one bonus is none of the exhaust side valve seals are showing any sings of leaking.

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I have the intake manifold completley disconnected from the head and moved out of the way. I did not need to take anything off of it other than the EGR and throttle body. Way easier than trying to pull all that harness and junk up and out of the way to get it off.
 
Nice job.:clap: Welding thin metal is PITA for me. I remember welding up all the rust holes in my '85 mini and somehow got more holes than when I started.:p:D
 
Nice sheetmetal work, as I know nothing about welding the thin stuff. Give me 1/4" or give me death:D

yeah I have not done much sheet metal welding but once you get the right size wire and the welder set up its a snap.

Nice job.:clap: Welding thin metal is PITA for me. I remember welding up all the rust holes in my '85 mini and somehow got more holes than when I started.:p:D

Thank you! I had a few holes mostly just spots i missed. When I had the spots all ground down I took some water and sprayed the back side. Were it leached through I knew I had a hole. Welded it up and applied a bit of etching primer and filler then ready for paint.

Each rear quarter took about 5 nights to get done (3 hours per night). Having clean replacement panels helped out a lot.
 
Great work getting that poor LX up o snuff! As a side note, What the **** do they use on the roads to do that to vehicles? Straight salt?

TK

Thanks, yes usually straight salt but they are changing over to a even harsher deicing liquid calcium magnesium acetate now that seems to make cars rust much much quicker.

In BC were I live it not as big a problems but this truck is from Toronto (imported to BC in 1999) and they use it like water on the roads. It defiantly took its tool on this truck even with only 3 years there. I hope that my repairs will last a few years, I still have a lot of frame and under body clean up to get done once the HG job is finished.
 
Got the head all ready to lift off this weekend, working on it in the snow and cold all weekend so progress was slow. The head is unbolted and ready to lift off as soon as I pick up the engine hoist.

The back head bolt on the exhaust side came out funny and when I removed it it had quite a bit of oil/coolant sludge on it so it for sure was leaking to the head bolt and the rest of the way out the side of the head.

Looking forward to lifting it off tonight and seeing just how bad it was. Got the head going out to a shop to check the deck and make sure its not warped. if its not warped I will clean it up and reinstall by Wednesday.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates. I got the head off a few weeks ago and had it decked/dipped and new valve seals installed. I got the head back on last weekend and found a damaged head bolt so got delayed waiting for a replacement.

The other night I got the head torqued back on and one of the two 90* steps done on the head bolts. Tomorrow I plan on getting that done and hope to have it running this weekend. In the down time waiting for the head bolts I changed the inner wheel wells with rust free ones off a JDM 80 (same ones I got the rear quarters out of). So the truck is not officially done its rust repairs and replacement. I still have a bit of work underneath it to take care of.

I also had the rad flushed and pressure tested and its good, I also plan on swinging by the hobby shop tomorrow and getting some fan clutch 10000K fluid. Before the rad is reinstalled I will move my focus down to the front crank seal and oil pump O ring replacement. Then re assemble it all with new rad hoses (all of them are getting replaced on the engine) and all new idler bearings and belts. Hope its like new when I am done, I have almost $600 into factory replacement parts in the engine bay alone.

Once I get it running I will have the mobile glass guy come and reinstall the windshield and rear glass.

Then I finally get ot start on the fun stuff, OME lift, sterio, tires, bumpers, rock sliders and so on.
 

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