So do you think you’l best the 1FZ on low end torque?
Builds My 97 LC 2JZ manual swap build thread (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
The goal is to get close ft/lb wise but overall I think it should feel more torque-y than stock.
The engine and transmission weigh a lot less, and the 5spd gearing is better 1st is 3.83 on the ax15 and stock 4spd auto is 2.95 so that makes a big difference moving things from a stop.
I'll try and get a dnyo in to get some numbers though.
The engine and transmission weigh a lot less, and the 5spd gearing is better 1st is 3.83 on the ax15 and stock 4spd auto is 2.95 so that makes a big difference moving things from a stop.
I'll try and get a dnyo in to get some numbers though.
- Thread starter
- #23
Got a lot more work done on the Supra Cruiser and have been driving it around some to start breaking in the clutch and sorting any small issues.
Will try to update it more as its happening in real time, but since the last post here is the big stuff that has gotten finished.
It's a shame the turbo gets covered up by the intake piping cause it really is like a work of art
Finished up the 3" Exhaust, it crosses over the frame, cats are not visible from the side, and exits like the Original Borla 80 exhaust I have (2.25" diameter)
This last part was a little tricky to give clearance to the spare, rear panhard, and not melt the original mudflaps.
Got all the carpet in, have some pictures along the way but its pretty straight forward
I opted to delete the third row seats and remove the seatbelts etc... I didn't want to cut the carpet or the new weathertech cargo mat I have.
I'm keeping all the parts in a box and can be reinstalled pretty easily if ever needed.
I know I need to clean up those rear panels and the seats have not been recovered yet (PO did them in reverse anniversary colors for some reason)
Going to recover the front and rear seats, the front seats are getting heaters in them and going to wire to the oem switches
Engine bay shot from a few weeks ago, have cleaned up a few things but mostly the same.
Close up of the Bosch I-booster gen 1 unit that I made an adapter for to mount like stock (different versions used on early teslas, toyotas, hondas etc.. )
There is also an adapter to a new OEM master cylinder as I decided I wanted to keep the actual hydraulic part of the braking system OEM.
You can also see where the oem fuel hardline goes to a TT supra fuel filter, and from there its an AN line to the fuel rail.
Will try to update it more as its happening in real time, but since the last post here is the big stuff that has gotten finished.
It's a shame the turbo gets covered up by the intake piping cause it really is like a work of art
Finished up the 3" Exhaust, it crosses over the frame, cats are not visible from the side, and exits like the Original Borla 80 exhaust I have (2.25" diameter)
This last part was a little tricky to give clearance to the spare, rear panhard, and not melt the original mudflaps.
Got all the carpet in, have some pictures along the way but its pretty straight forward
I opted to delete the third row seats and remove the seatbelts etc... I didn't want to cut the carpet or the new weathertech cargo mat I have.
I'm keeping all the parts in a box and can be reinstalled pretty easily if ever needed.
I know I need to clean up those rear panels and the seats have not been recovered yet (PO did them in reverse anniversary colors for some reason)
Going to recover the front and rear seats, the front seats are getting heaters in them and going to wire to the oem switches
Engine bay shot from a few weeks ago, have cleaned up a few things but mostly the same.
Close up of the Bosch I-booster gen 1 unit that I made an adapter for to mount like stock (different versions used on early teslas, toyotas, hondas etc.. )
There is also an adapter to a new OEM master cylinder as I decided I wanted to keep the actual hydraulic part of the braking system OEM.
You can also see where the oem fuel hardline goes to a TT supra fuel filter, and from there its an AN line to the fuel rail.
- Thread starter
- #24
I didn't want to delete the LSPV entirely, so I opted to raise it up to match the 4" lift.
Instead of a bracket extension I welded a longer threaded rod on, that way it is fully adjustable from stock to 4+ inches of lift
Manual LHD console from Delta, it's ok I don't need 2 kidneys =) seriously though it is worth it, a super nice piece!!
My test fit of the console, turns out my original shifter was hitting the bottom of the delta opening in 2-4-R just a hair, so I re-welded the shifter.
Next up is the relay and tie rod, I got all new 555 joints, but when I went to get the old ones off I pretty much lost to the oem tie rods.
They seem to be rusted in place.. so a quick trip up to SLEE and I got some fancy new rods.
Since this picture I flipped the stabilizer bar around so it has more clearance to the steering rod, the bigger end makes slight contact apparently.
Picture of the shifter post rewelding, it sits more like an oem 80 in height now from what I can tell in pictures at least.
Have a wideband and boost gauge in for tuning and general fun. Ordered blanks for the 3 switch holes those will be great for lights later.
Picked up a TJM front bumper, looks so much better. Also needed some fresh gas to start breaking in the clutch and do a little tuning.
It does look a little funny on the stock size tires. I plan to put on 35's but not sure it will fit in the garage anymore without airing down so waiting on that.
Rear driveshaft angle turned out fine with the lift and it was extended a few inches to make up for the now shorter drivetrain.
The front driveshaft being a little shortened and the lift is at more of an extreme angle now.
I got a little vibe with the front shaft in around 1500-2000 rpms, so pulled it out and its getting a spicer double cardon put on.
Will have pics of that when I get it back from the driveshaft shop.
I also completed all the wiring, including the center diff lock and a/c (still need to get the custom lines made though)
I also made it light up the "N" light on the cluster when the transfer case is in neutral so you have some indication if you are a park it in gear person you don't want it rolling away from you. I always use the handbrake but I know enough people that do not.
When the engine is on and running there are no lights on except for the airbag because I still need to re-wrap the steering wheel.
I also installed a rear delta pan hard bracket to re-center the axle with the lift and make it handle better.
Forgot to take a picture but will take on for the next updates after the crazy snow storm clears... I don't want the new parts to get dirty yet =)
I will also get an engine starting and running video now, probably a driving one as well once I get the front shaft back in.
Instead of a bracket extension I welded a longer threaded rod on, that way it is fully adjustable from stock to 4+ inches of lift
Manual LHD console from Delta, it's ok I don't need 2 kidneys =) seriously though it is worth it, a super nice piece!!
My test fit of the console, turns out my original shifter was hitting the bottom of the delta opening in 2-4-R just a hair, so I re-welded the shifter.
Next up is the relay and tie rod, I got all new 555 joints, but when I went to get the old ones off I pretty much lost to the oem tie rods.
They seem to be rusted in place.. so a quick trip up to SLEE and I got some fancy new rods.
Since this picture I flipped the stabilizer bar around so it has more clearance to the steering rod, the bigger end makes slight contact apparently.
Picture of the shifter post rewelding, it sits more like an oem 80 in height now from what I can tell in pictures at least.
Have a wideband and boost gauge in for tuning and general fun. Ordered blanks for the 3 switch holes those will be great for lights later.
Picked up a TJM front bumper, looks so much better. Also needed some fresh gas to start breaking in the clutch and do a little tuning.
It does look a little funny on the stock size tires. I plan to put on 35's but not sure it will fit in the garage anymore without airing down so waiting on that.
Rear driveshaft angle turned out fine with the lift and it was extended a few inches to make up for the now shorter drivetrain.
The front driveshaft being a little shortened and the lift is at more of an extreme angle now.
I got a little vibe with the front shaft in around 1500-2000 rpms, so pulled it out and its getting a spicer double cardon put on.
Will have pics of that when I get it back from the driveshaft shop.
I also completed all the wiring, including the center diff lock and a/c (still need to get the custom lines made though)
I also made it light up the "N" light on the cluster when the transfer case is in neutral so you have some indication if you are a park it in gear person you don't want it rolling away from you. I always use the handbrake but I know enough people that do not.
When the engine is on and running there are no lights on except for the airbag because I still need to re-wrap the steering wheel.
I also installed a rear delta pan hard bracket to re-center the axle with the lift and make it handle better.
Forgot to take a picture but will take on for the next updates after the crazy snow storm clears... I don't want the new parts to get dirty yet =)
I will also get an engine starting and running video now, probably a driving one as well once I get the front shaft back in.
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chelo
SILVER Star
I was waiting for this update. Maybe I missed it but are you using and oil pan from an sc300?
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- Thread starter
- #26
The engine is from a mk4 supra non turbo, which has the same rear sump oil pan setup as the sc300.
In reality it is more of a rear/mid sump than the traditional rear sump. There is no oem option that is more rearward than the SC/Supra.
The only thing that changed over the years with the rear sump was the shape of the oil level sender, but they all work the same.
In reality it is more of a rear/mid sump than the traditional rear sump. There is no oem option that is more rearward than the SC/Supra.
The only thing that changed over the years with the rear sump was the shape of the oil level sender, but they all work the same.
- Thread starter
- #28
The less I have to clean the floor the better. This LC doesn't drip anything since the swap, but it seems like there is always a little dirt that falls down every time I remove something new so they are usually just on the floor and I slide them where I work out of habbit lol.
Just scanned/read this whole thread, can't wait to see what the numbers are pre-tuning and after tuning.
This is a truly fantastic project. I wasn’t aware of the electronic boosters and just spent an hour reading online. Please keep the updates coming.
- Thread starter
- #31
I used to have a turbo sc300 for many years which I had tuned on the same type of aem v1 ecu, it was around 450 rwhp which is what I am looking for on this build except all wheel horsepower this time. My old tune should be pretty close, should just have to make small tweaks for the different precision 6262 turbo on this one and it should make good power.
I could go up to 550 whp on this motor pretty reliably, but I don't want to blow the center vlsd or pop an axle shaft etc..
I especially don't want it to roll over on me
Thanks! They are pretty amazing tech. The 100 series and the 4th gen and up 4runners etc.. all use a type of e-booster but they are more bulky and have abs modules incorporated alot of the time. This I-booster is like the hotrod unit of E-boosters, simple, small package and efficient. It's way more powerful than a hydroboost even, takes barely any pedal effort. I have used them all more or less and I was impressed once I got it retrofitted properly.
Made a little more progress.
The 2JZ is legendary for being a strong motor, but it does have a few quirks.
One of them is the Harmonic balancer / crank pulley.
The rubber section is known to get weak over the decades and under heavy acceleration the front metal gear for the accessory belt can also seperate from the main pulley and it usually takes out some of your engine cover plastics, fan and/or shroud, shot through the hood, or even sometimes it goes under the car and one supraforums member cracked a rear wheel it impacted it so hard on its way out.
Most people go aftermarket to avoid that like with a fluidamper etc.. or some opt to get a new oem pulley.
Toyota was having a sale so I decided I just wanted a new oem pulley on this build. its not going to be high hp (generally 600+ in the supra world).
The other nice part of this swap and using IS300 electric fans is all the space up front to work on the engine, had no problem swapping out the crank pulley didn't even have to remove anything else just took off the belt.
I decided to redo the seats in just one color, the lighter ivory color. Somehow the 2 tone just looks a bit dated to me and I don't think they do a great job of matching the darker brown color depending on where you can get a set. Got one back seat done.
I think it looks pretty sharp in the lighter color. Now I just need to finish the other 3
I also got the front driveshaft back with the double cardon joint installed, no more vibrations but I forgot to take a picture.
Cool build lots of good info started reading and pulled in
- Thread starter
- #33
Snapped a picture of the modified front driveshaft. Was shortened previously and had a new double cardan spicer joint installed, now vibration free.
Need to break in the clutch, have a few hundred miles to go before I can lay into the boost.
It does want to go into boost very easily though, so having to granny shift it more or less.
Feels funny to break in a new engine, transmission and clutch at 215k miles
Just realized I should probably put the airbag back in
Need to break in the clutch, have a few hundred miles to go before I can lay into the boost.
It does want to go into boost very easily though, so having to granny shift it more or less.
Feels funny to break in a new engine, transmission and clutch at 215k miles
Just realized I should probably put the airbag back in
- Thread starter
- #34
Got the rear seats done, not too difficult as far as rear seats go.
Center console arm rest thing is back in with the seat heater switches that just plug in which is nice.
Still need to do the front seats and will install heater pads at the same time and connect to the stock heater switch wiring.
Starting to look more complete, after I redo the seats and wrap the steering wheel it will pretty much be done.
I may get a better head unit later on for now just gonna rock the one that is already there.
Went back and rewelded a couple parts of the exhaust for more clearance to the frame and body
Cleaned up the tune some, noticed my battery voltage was getting a little low after idling for a while.
Forgot the stock supra na alternator is an 80 amp and is pretty terrible at idle, so did the 2uz 130amp alternator upgrade for an oem type solution.
Just have to shave one mounting tab and has a different connector, pretty easy swap there are a few threads online.
The 2uzfe alternator charges better at idle, in my GX470 I can run 2 batteries and extra stuff without those issues.
Not too much left, just finishing up more small stuff. Broke in the clutch enough to give it boost and set it around 12 psi for now.
It feels pretty awesome, peppier than before out of boost and anything above 3k rpms in boost just rockets away.
1st gear feels great also and don't think I am missing any torque vs the 1fz auto setup.
The weight reduction, extra 5spd gearing and turbo seem to be doing the job.
I am very happy with it so far
Center console arm rest thing is back in with the seat heater switches that just plug in which is nice.
Still need to do the front seats and will install heater pads at the same time and connect to the stock heater switch wiring.
Starting to look more complete, after I redo the seats and wrap the steering wheel it will pretty much be done.
I may get a better head unit later on for now just gonna rock the one that is already there.
Went back and rewelded a couple parts of the exhaust for more clearance to the frame and body
Cleaned up the tune some, noticed my battery voltage was getting a little low after idling for a while.
Forgot the stock supra na alternator is an 80 amp and is pretty terrible at idle, so did the 2uz 130amp alternator upgrade for an oem type solution.
Just have to shave one mounting tab and has a different connector, pretty easy swap there are a few threads online.
The 2uzfe alternator charges better at idle, in my GX470 I can run 2 batteries and extra stuff without those issues.
Not too much left, just finishing up more small stuff. Broke in the clutch enough to give it boost and set it around 12 psi for now.
It feels pretty awesome, peppier than before out of boost and anything above 3k rpms in boost just rockets away.
1st gear feels great also and don't think I am missing any torque vs the 1fz auto setup.
The weight reduction, extra 5spd gearing and turbo seem to be doing the job.
I am very happy with it so far
- Thread starter
- #35
Been a while since I updated this thread. Been working on the Supra Cruiser slowly.
The electronic brake booster seemed like a good idea, but somehow I didn't seem to have the braking power I thought it should have for that sort of setup.
I ended up swapping the whole thing out for a GM hydro-boost unit and Wilwood 1" bore master cylinder.
The truck stops amazing with the hydro-boost setup and it also looks nice. Made custom lines for it and came out well in the end.
I also upgraded to 35's and the hydro-boost setup feels effortless even with the bigger tires.
Picture of it at the A/c shop a while back where it got a couple custom compressor lines and the a/c is ice cold now.
Also changed out the front calipers with new Toyota units, figured I have changed every other part in the system so time for new calipers!
I did find the gearing a little sluggish after putting on the 35's, so I pulled the transfer case and installed 10% underdrive gears which made the truck all around peppier and gets into boost faster.
I also swapped out the Precision 62mm turbo to a much smaller Borg Warner 50mm turbo for quicker spool.
It takes off much earlier in the power band now. Redid the downpipe and installed a custom throttle body setup for better clearance.
The Borg's tend to have a larger rear housing than the precisions even though its a smaller turbo (weird I know).
That is mostly it now just slowly breaking in the new setup, and will try and get it to a dyno once I am done dialing in the tune.
I will add some more pics tonight since I don't have an updated engine bay shot of the brake master cylinder or new turbo.
The electronic brake booster seemed like a good idea, but somehow I didn't seem to have the braking power I thought it should have for that sort of setup.
I ended up swapping the whole thing out for a GM hydro-boost unit and Wilwood 1" bore master cylinder.
The truck stops amazing with the hydro-boost setup and it also looks nice. Made custom lines for it and came out well in the end.
I also upgraded to 35's and the hydro-boost setup feels effortless even with the bigger tires.
Picture of it at the A/c shop a while back where it got a couple custom compressor lines and the a/c is ice cold now.
Also changed out the front calipers with new Toyota units, figured I have changed every other part in the system so time for new calipers!
I did find the gearing a little sluggish after putting on the 35's, so I pulled the transfer case and installed 10% underdrive gears which made the truck all around peppier and gets into boost faster.
I also swapped out the Precision 62mm turbo to a much smaller Borg Warner 50mm turbo for quicker spool.
It takes off much earlier in the power band now. Redid the downpipe and installed a custom throttle body setup for better clearance.
The Borg's tend to have a larger rear housing than the precisions even though its a smaller turbo (weird I know).
That is mostly it now just slowly breaking in the new setup, and will try and get it to a dyno once I am done dialing in the tune.
I will add some more pics tonight since I don't have an updated engine bay shot of the brake master cylinder or new turbo.
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Well that escalated quickly!
Rocking bro!
Rocking bro!
- Thread starter
- #37
Thanks!! finally took a few engine bay pictures.
Now I need to drive it some more while the weather is good.
GM hydro-boost unit and Wilwood aluminum tandem master cylinder w/1" bore
Can see the AC lines mounted at top of radiator from compressor to both firewall and condenser
Now I need to drive it some more while the weather is good.
GM hydro-boost unit and Wilwood aluminum tandem master cylinder w/1" bore
Can see the AC lines mounted at top of radiator from compressor to both firewall and condenser
- Thread starter
- #39
Good question and neat swap!
The transmission was a brand new Aisin AX15 unit.
I used the 1jz/r154 bellhousing but instead of going with the factory 1jz pull setup I converted to a push clutch setup for ease and more clutch options.
You could also keep the factory 1jz pull setup but you would need all the factory parts then for that but with a different clutch disc to fit the gm splines.
For converting to push I used a w58 mk4/sc300 factory flywheel and matching Act heavy duty pressure plate.
You could go more aggressive and use the extreme pressure plate if you really need to hold extra torque, but pedal will be alot stiffer.
The AX15 has what are I think an early gm spline count/pattern, it isn't the same as a supra/sc so you can't just order a complete w58 clutch kit.
For a clutch I researched and found a Centerforce performance full face clutch w/ the right diameter and correct input splines.
You could also go with a puck style clutch disc here to hold more power but it would be more on and off feeling.
I used an LS/Camaro hydraulic throw out bearing on a Xcessive manufacturing billet hydraulic TOB adapter that mounts to the r154 bell.
You will want to shim the hydraulic bearing also if you go this route, I also trimmed the sleeve off the front bearing retainer.
There is also a gm version of a front bearing retainer that comes on the AR5 transmission (solstice/sky 5 speeds) that will bolt to any R series transmission including the AX15, they come stock with a hydraulic throw out bearing so no need for an adapter, but I had trouble finding one new.
The input shaft is too long compared to a r154 and after measuring seemed it would barely bottom out, so I trimmed the front of input shaft some.
I have a measurement somewhere, and I can measure the left over piece I cut off. maybe in the neighborhood of 1/4" but you will want to measure.
For the pilot bearing I took the sizes of inner and outer and searched, it was not a common bearing but I did find it online and got some extras.
The AX15 uses a large size bearing that wont fit the smaller size on the toyota block, and all the toyota stuff is too small for the input on the ax15.
I have the info on the bearing though I will try and find it, pm me if you decide to do it and need some part numbers etc..
It is all mostly available off the shelf parts except for the input bearing which you can order extras and just keep spares. good luck!
The transmission was a brand new Aisin AX15 unit.
I used the 1jz/r154 bellhousing but instead of going with the factory 1jz pull setup I converted to a push clutch setup for ease and more clutch options.
You could also keep the factory 1jz pull setup but you would need all the factory parts then for that but with a different clutch disc to fit the gm splines.
For converting to push I used a w58 mk4/sc300 factory flywheel and matching Act heavy duty pressure plate.
You could go more aggressive and use the extreme pressure plate if you really need to hold extra torque, but pedal will be alot stiffer.
The AX15 has what are I think an early gm spline count/pattern, it isn't the same as a supra/sc so you can't just order a complete w58 clutch kit.
For a clutch I researched and found a Centerforce performance full face clutch w/ the right diameter and correct input splines.
You could also go with a puck style clutch disc here to hold more power but it would be more on and off feeling.
I used an LS/Camaro hydraulic throw out bearing on a Xcessive manufacturing billet hydraulic TOB adapter that mounts to the r154 bell.
You will want to shim the hydraulic bearing also if you go this route, I also trimmed the sleeve off the front bearing retainer.
There is also a gm version of a front bearing retainer that comes on the AR5 transmission (solstice/sky 5 speeds) that will bolt to any R series transmission including the AX15, they come stock with a hydraulic throw out bearing so no need for an adapter, but I had trouble finding one new.
The input shaft is too long compared to a r154 and after measuring seemed it would barely bottom out, so I trimmed the front of input shaft some.
I have a measurement somewhere, and I can measure the left over piece I cut off. maybe in the neighborhood of 1/4" but you will want to measure.
For the pilot bearing I took the sizes of inner and outer and searched, it was not a common bearing but I did find it online and got some extras.
The AX15 uses a large size bearing that wont fit the smaller size on the toyota block, and all the toyota stuff is too small for the input on the ax15.
I have the info on the bearing though I will try and find it, pm me if you decide to do it and need some part numbers etc..
It is all mostly available off the shelf parts except for the input bearing which you can order extras and just keep spares. good luck!
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My buddy runs a t56 in his setup. That car is scary fast.
