Builds My '78 FJ40 "44"

[Solace in Solitude]

Hi Danny
Vegas is still on our plans.
Just the dates are the Unknown. As I'm getting more spare time I'm from finding more an more trips I can go on.
So what I need to do is settle on a date and book it in.
I know you have told me before but what is the ideal time to visit weather wise were we won't cook?
Cheers Peter

Enjoy those trips, Peter - take all you can!!

If you come to Vegas, mid-Oct thru mid-Nov is generally great, weather-wise.

Cheers,

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Well, to be honest, I tried UNSUCCESSFULLY to burn 44 down this week... so, I'm very lucky!!

What an idiot I am!! I won't go into details here... suffice it to say, I did something really stupid... but, not nearly the stupidest thing I've ever done, I'm sorry to say... I've posted a complete confession in another thread... if you really want to know, you'll need to find that post.

But, I did vaporize the fusible link and melt the insulation off of the 10 ga WL wire, from the alternator to the ammeter... I won't know about the ammeter or voltage regulator until I get it all back together... I've pulled the alternator to have it checked.

I've pulled and inspected the harness and the 10 ga WL is a total loss... I have several other wires that either had the insulation melted off for 1/2" - 2", or it pulled off when I separated it from the 10 ga WL wire... but, they are all intact.

I've spoke to Mark (@Coolerman) and he assures me that the smaller wires can simply be taped (to replace the insulation)... he has also offered to build a new WL for me... but, with his eyesight issues, I'm really hesitant to take him up on it... I don't want to be responsible for overtaxing his eyes.

Since 44 is 38 years of age, I think it might be a better idea to simply build a new harness, rather than putting the old wires back in... so, I've asked Mark to price out a kit of all the wire colors, terminals, connectors, fusible link, etc. and I'll build it myself.

So, while I initially myself, I have since recovered and am now for joy... I still have 44 and still have the house... it's all behind me and I'll have 44 back before the weather becomes tolerable again.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I bought and really like the Painless harness I got for my '40. My only issue with it is it was made for a '40 so I needed to add some wiring for the accessories (like off-road lights). That said, I fudged a bit because it had extra wires for reverse lights.... still, while it is pretty good, it's not plug and play like a stock harness would be (which, I just sold my old one... sorry).

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I bought and really like the Painless harness I got for my '40. My only issue with it is it was made for a '40 so I needed to add some wiring for the accessories (like off-road lights). That said, I fudged a bit because it had extra wires for reverse lights.... still, while it is pretty good, it's not plug and play like a stock harness would be (which, I just sold my old one... sorry).

I considered Painless and others, but so many have suggested it's easy to fix my old harness... others say it's easy to build a new harness.

I've looked at mine and there's really not much to it... as long as I can match the colors and come up with terminals and connectors... and Mark sells all that.

I'm waiting to see what Mark thinks... fix or build new... and go from there.

 

[65swb45]

Danny

A sheet of plywood, some electrical tape and a lot patience are all you really need.

When we did the Project Phoenix rebuild for @Land Cruiser Junky at my shop, @DanS HJ-45 and one other guy pulled the harness, untaped it on the plywood, tested all the circuits and wrapped it all back up in just a few hours. Granted this was an early harness, but the principle is the same.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

BTW

Anyone who recalls the assault of the girl next door, that I reported a couple of pages back... I have a subpoena to testify on Monday... if it doesn't get delayed. They still haven't caught the other two guys (criminal geniuses escaped in a carjacked landscaper's pickup, pulling a trailer... avoiding two police jurisdictions and multiple helicopters). I think the guy the caught is being tried so soon, in an attempt at enticing him to roll on the other two...

I'd rather they caught the other two, so I could quit being so attentive to every car that comes by... but, I'm always armed, in the garage.

The girl's dad stopped by today and asked me to go to the next HOA meeting and speak up for him... they want to evict him (he's renting)... since his daughter is back, living with him, I told him I won't do it.

I also told him I'm not impressed with his daughter... I have seen her multiple times and she has never once thanked Dianna or me for stepping up. I said, "we're having to watch our backs and spend our time going to court... if she expects people to actually care, she needs to learn manners and NOT bring this element she favors back into our community".

He's stopped making excuses for her... but she's still there nonetheless.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Danny

A sheet of plywood, some electrical tape and a lot patience are all you really need.

When we did the Project Phoenix rebuild for @Land Cruiser Junky at my shop, @DanS HJ-45 and one other guy pulled the harness, untaped it on the plywood, tested all the circuits and wrapped it all back up in just a few hours. Granted this was an early harness, but the principle is the same.

Yep! That's what it looks like to me too... as someone (@1911?) said, "it's not rocket science"... just requires attention to detail... which a lack of got me into this situation in the first place...

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Danny

A sheet of plywood, some electrical tape and a lot patience are all you really need.

When we did the Project Phoenix rebuild for @Land Cruiser Junky at my shop, @DanS HJ-45 and one other guy pulled the harness, untaped it on the plywood, tested all the circuits and wrapped it all back up in just a few hours. Granted this was an early harness, but the principle is the same.

Unless your harness is missing pieces, they aren't that hard to fix.

1. Go to a junkyard. Pull a Toyota Harness from any Toyota. Whatever is cheaper.
2. Know how to solder and terminate connections correctly.
3. Remove your harness.
4. Attach it to a board. A peg board is awesome for this. Use zip ties or bailing wire. Note the location of the firewall.
5. Cut out and replace any of the damaged wires. (this is why you picked up a toyota harness--so you will have the correct color codes)
6. Tape it back up.
7. Install it.

Cruise on! Added bonus: if you have any aftermarket stuff like aux lights, you can add those wires to the original harness. Very clean.

Dan

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I removed my front heater, so I could get my huge head under the dash... made it much easier to pull the harness.

Since I never use a heater (with 450* headers), I'm going to remove my rear heater as well and leave them both out... I can use the extra room.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Unless your harness is missing pieces, they aren't that hard to fix.

1. Go to a junkyard. Pull a Toyota Harness from any Toyota. Whatever is cheaper.
2. Know how to solder and terminate connections correctly.
3. Remove your harness.
4. Attach it to a board. A peg board is awesome for this. Use zip ties or bailing wire. Note the location of the firewall.
5. Cut out and replace any of the damaged wires. (this is why you picked up a toyota harness--so you will have the correct color codes)
6. Tape it back up.
7. Install it.

Cruise on! Added bonus: if you have any aftermarket stuff like aux lights, you can add those wires to the original harness. Very clean.

Dan

Thanks Dan!!

I don't have any missing pieces... except the 10ga WL and the fusible link.

Some of the smaller wires have bits and pieces of missing insulation... Mark (coolerman) said to just tape them... and I have.

What are y'all's thoughts of the age of the wires... is it worthwhile to build a new harness, just because the wires are 38 years old?

Thanks!!

 

[handcannon]

For me it would depend on the condition of the wire, the copper stranded core and the insulation. Inside the loom the wire is most likely still in good condition. Where the wire (pigtail) exits from the cover, to attach to the item (whatever that particular item happens to be), is where the age usually will show up.

It might be worthwhile doing like Dan suggested and get a Toyota loom from the wrecking yard. Then you can change out the pigtails that are showing age with good wire taken out of the donor loom. Doing this should get you a new looking harness with less work, as long as your current harness is in decent shape.

Don

 

[DanS HJ-45]

What are y'all's thoughts of the age of the wires... is it worthwhile to build a new harness, just because the wires are 38 years old?

Toyota used very high quality wire. Unless sections are damaged by heat, chemicals and abrasion--their age wouldn't bother me at all.

Dan

 

[1911]

Toyota used very high quality wire. Unless sections are damaged by heat, chemicals and abrasion--their age wouldn't bother me at all.

Dan

My experience also; I wouldn't re-build the whole thing Danny, just replace whatever burned.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

For me it would depend on the condition of the wire, the copper stranded core and the insulation. Inside the loom the wire is most likely still in good condition. Where the wire (pigtail) exits from the cover, to attach to the item (whatever that particular item happens to be), is where the age usually will show up.

It might be worthwhile doing like Dan suggested and get a Toyota loom from the wrecking yard. Then you can change out the pigtails that are showing age with good wire taken out of the donor loom. Doing this should get you a new looking harness with less work, as long as your current harness is in decent shape.

Don

Thanks Don!!

Toyota used very high quality wire. Unless sections are damaged by heat, chemicals and abrasion--their age wouldn't bother me at all.

Dan

Good to know - thanks!!

 

[Solace in Solitude]

My experience also; I wouldn't re-build the whole thing Danny, just replace whatever burned.

Thanks Lee!!

Would wire with insulation burned off concern you, if the bare wire was taped up?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's already out, glass fuses are their own issue, Asian connectors are hateful... replace it with new. Worst case is if you stretch the wire out, a circuit works, then you put it back in and an in-line break opens back up...

 

[Solace in Solitude]

It's already out, glass fuses are their own issue, Asian connectors are hateful... replace it with new. Worst case is if you stretch the wire out, a circuit works, then you put it back in and an in-line break opens back up...

This is my main concern... I don't want to have intermittent shorts and have to pull the harness a second time.

 

[1911]

Thanks Lee!!

Would wire with insulation burned off concern you, if the bare wire was taped up?

You could replace the insulation with heat-shrink tubing, but personally I would replace that length of wire where the insulation melted/burned off just to be sure.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

This is my main concern... I don't want to have intermittent shorts and have to pull the harness a second time.

I know I'm contrarian - but rest assured, I'd save the money and reuse the harness if I thought it could work. The harness on Shipwreck? - that is the 2nd harness I've replaced. The '40 I had when I lived in Reno, I had to replace it too. I spent 6 months trying to get it to work and completely failed - I'd fix one problem then the issue would move upstream to those hateful connectors. All of this was on a 59 - so there wasn't much there in the way of electronics....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

And for reference, this is the NASA required way of splicing wires. Honestly, I think this is the only way to splice, but it's REALLY time consuming....

Developed during the heyday of the telegraph, the Lineman’s splice is designed for connections that will be under tension. It is commonly claimed that, properly made, a Lineman’s splice is stronger than the wires of which it is composed. In any case, it is a time-proven method, and, coolest of all, one of NASA’s Required Workmanship Standards. To wit, in a NASA-approved Lineman’s splice:

1. The conductors shall be pre-tinned.
2. There shall be at least 3 turns around each conductor and the wraps shall be tight with no gaps between adjacent turns.
3. The wraps shall not overlap and the ends of the wrap shall be trimmed flush prior to soldering to prevent protruding ends.
4. Conductors shall not overlap the insulation of the other wire.

Though the Lineman’s splice was originally used without solder, today soldering is common. And NASA insists on it:

1. Solder shall wet all elements of the connection.
2. The solder shall fillet between connection elements over the complete periphery
   of the connection.

This material comes from page 84 of NASA-STD 8739.4 (PDF), which is a great reference if you’re interested in best practices for interconnecting cables and wires.