Riley (jetranger) suggested I start a thread here to announce my new 1978 FJ40. Some of you may experience deja vu - I previously posted some of this information in the 'classifieds' forum, as posts within my initial "WantToBuy: New Member Looking for and FJ40 in Nevada" thread - I closed that thread and will post new pictures here. I bought my 40 from Classic Car Liquidators(CCL) in Sherman, TX and, while it took longer than expected for them to get it delivered, they more than made up for the delay by reupholstering the bucket seats and the jump seats - I'm very pleased with my new seats! I'm also very pleased with CCL! I took delivery of "44" (44th wedding anniversary this month and 40 for FJ40) on March 6th and it is everything I was led to believe it would be! I was led to believe (by the seller and the inspector I hired) that it was virtually rust-free and it is - the rust is extremely minimal and only surface. I was led to believe it was in great mechanical condition - and I'm very pleased with the overall condition. I was led to believe the paint was good (no bondo), but not showroom (with some red showing thru) - and it is exactly that - I plan to use my 40 offroad (not crawling), but on very rough Nevada roads regardless - the paint is perfect for me - it looks good - but, not so good that I will worry about scratching it. The issues reported by the inspector (other than the upholstery that has been replaced) were: watery coolant; a slight oil leak at the front of the oil pan; and the clutch engaged too high. I took it to the local Toyota dealership on March 11th and asked them to flush the coolant, the diffs and the transfer case. I also asked them to adjust the clutch, do a frontend alignment and tell me where the oil leak was. They found the plastic coolant canister completely clogged - that's resolved and coolant has been replaced. They found the front diff fluid was a thick 'mud' consistency - that's resolved. The back diff and transfer case was fairly clean - but I had them flushed anyway. The oil is new, as is the transmission fluid. They said they couldn't adjust the clutch because the slave cylinder adjustment is 'frozen' - I have ordered a replacement and will install and adjust it myself. They said they couldn't align the frontend because the two front rods (that are used for this purpose) are also "frozen" - 44 is safely drive-able, as is, I will deal with this later. They showed me three minor leaks: 1. The oil pan plug has a very slight leak - it appears that whomever changed the oil didn't put a gasket on the plug - I will deal with this when I next change the oil. 2. The speedometer gear cable needs a new seal at the transmission - I will deal with this eventually. 3. This is the largest repair - the front input shaft seal is leaking on the transmission - unless this leak worsens, I will deal with this when I get to it. I knew from the outset that there was no headliner in my 40 - I've spoken to scrapdaddy about Lizard Skin and Monstaliner (magnetman too) and they have both provided excellent input. I am now in touch with Lizard Skin - I plan to spray Lizard Skin "insulation" and "sound control" and then roll on Monstaliner, rather than install headliner (as scrapdaddy did in his SLOW 71 build. NOTE: For anyone interested, here's what Lizard Skin told me: "Thanks for your interest in LizardSkin, Where you can Spray your way to a Cooler, Quieter Ride. The only prep on a fiberglass surface is make sure it’s clean with no grease, oil or dirt then scuff it very good with a red scotch brite pad then wipe it down with “D” natured alcohol. Tape off any areas you don’t want it on. Spraying is the best way to apply the product there are particles suspended in the product that must be evenly dispersed across the substrate for the best performance and we are looking for two 20 mil coats. Rolling or brushing those ceramic particles tend to hang up in the apparatus and even though the surface gets covered there could be holes in the product so to speak where heat could come through, the next area of concern if you’re not careful rolling can lay the product on too thick per coat so you have to be patient and measure your coats to be at 20 mils. If you are wanting to roll it the big box stores have a foam roller that is 1” wide by 4” long make sure the roller is completely saturated and go slow and measure your thickness. The Super pro gun kit has the gun and cup, wet mil gauge, stirring paddle and a secondary nozzle at 90° for $80.00. In the Vegas area we have SOCal Speed shop that carries the product and applies it too. This is meant to be a DIY project it’s easy or any body shop can apply it too." I'm also considering doing the same on the floor of my 40, with the additional, initial step of applying ZeroRust (like scrapdaddy did). Anyway... enough for my first post... If anyone can chime in with their thoughts regarding what Toyota told me about the clutch and steering - I would appreciate any input - I would like to be able to gauge their level of competence. I'm going to replace the clutch slave regardless, the master appears to be almost new. Now for some pictures: Here it is the way I bought it - BTW: It was very difficult to keep in a lane, above 38mph, with the tow bar in place - drifts slightly, but drives very well since I removed it.