My 3 linked daily driver build thread (1 Viewer)

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A few more

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Well, today is lost, probably won't get to work on the truck today. I picked up my lengthened rear driveline with new joints, waiting on my power steering hose still? Realized I wrapped up the wiring harness too soon, I have wiring to run for a few different things, alternator still needs a couple wires from the harness brought to the passenger side, have to run wiring for the glow plug relay, I forgot I have a digital boost gauge and EGT and tech converter to run also. A lot of that stuff is just one or two wires into the cab and the rest done in the cab. Hopefully I will finish wiring today if I have any time after I get done playing taxi. I need to remove the fuel pump from the tank and find radiator hoses. It's getting close folks. Hopefully a week or less. 2 weeks at most I hope.
 
August 11th update, got my power steering hose assembly today. Unwrapped the wiring harnesses and added in all the wiring for the Glow plug relay, digital boost gauge sensor, EGT, Dakota digital tach converter, stock Mercedes Hall effect sensor and ran the missing wire for alternator. Finished up most of the wiring, only Transfer case and transmission reverse switch to wire. I will drill holes and add either fir tree style zip ties or my anchor style zip ties to secure the harness along the firewall, I have neoprene padded hose hangers to organize the heater hose coming off the firewall. I will probably get some anti-abrasion coil to go around the hoses where they touch anything. It's getting there. Tomorrow I'm going to take on finding radiator hoses, finishing the trans harness, address the turbo situation and depending on time; address the fuel pump and maybe start the clutch pedal install. Before buttoning the front up, I'm replacing the motor mounts with new units instead of the ones that it came with. Less to worry about.

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Awesome stuff so far, keep it up!
 
Wow time is flying. August 13th update. Got the fuel pump taken out and a fuel pick up tube mounted, Got the clutch pedal and master cylinder mounted and dismounted, will finish mount when I modify the brake pedal. Had to read out the interior to allow my gimpy self to work under the remainder of the dash. Had to take out the Alarm/remote start. Turns out I had a lot of stuff running through the hole the master cylinder goes in. Had to pull my lightbar and ditch light wiring harness, Alarm components and CB coax and figure out how to re-route all of them. I will wire all those things at a later date. The re-routing ate up a bunch of time. Got the engine wiring harness tied down also. That's it for today. I have a list made for tomorrow to keep me on track.

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Great work :beer:
 
Update August 15, spent most of the day scouring the radiator hose selection of the local parts houses. Found my radiator hoses and got them installed. The power hose as of now is a flex hose, I have a hose that is nearly perfect but the last 3" is curved. If I could cut off 2" and have a straight section it would be perfect. So, I'm going to order a hose connector from summit and splice a 6" section, kind of split the difference of both hoses a little. For now I will run the flex hose and when I replace it I will keep it as a spare. No folks, that's not all I accomplished today. I installed the clutch pedal and master cylinder, I installed the clutch line and adapter fitting into the slave and connected the two. I also got the brake pedal sorted out. I made a template of the clutch pedal, taped off the brake pedal and traced the template onto the tape, cut it out and finish shaped it with a flap disk. Painted and installed it. Then I realized it was only 1" from the clutch pedal. So, I removed the brake pedal and began reshaping it. Gouged it with a cutoff wheel the bent and repeated. Ran a root pass and some filler passes with the tig and checked for shape. I have new bushings coming for the brake pedal, the pedal has always been kind of sloppy. Pedals look good, I will grind the welds and repaint the brake pedal tomorrow. I also have to remove the Tuna can from the air cleaner tomorrow. It contacts the turbo slightly. Still having some issues sorting out how I'm going to add the second turbo. Other than that; all that is theoretically needed to start and drive it is: battery tray and battery installed, brakes bled (broken line) clutch filled and bled, coolant added, rear driveline attached, shifter attached, driver seat, some form of air cleaner, intake bolted on, some form of turbo piping and lastly, some form of throttle control. Add the rest of the body, exhaust of some sort, the intercooler, 4wd shifter, front driveline and some AC lines and it's a done deal. Then it's on to rewiring the stuff I had to remove to install the clutch pedal (alarm/remote start, CB coax, offroad lights) picture time yay.

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Update: yesterday 15th, I got the brake pedal finished out. Ground the welds and painted it. Waiting on my new bushings for
The pedal since it had some slop. Got the new transmission crossmember bolts on, the others were a little thread thin from all of the removal and installations. Looks like I'm in need of a new 4 wd switch for the split case, the wire that was already hanging on for dear life finally came off. Went to use the hf2av switch and realized there just isn't enough room for that switch and a plug. The crossmember bracket on the inside of the frame protrudes right where the switch is. Removed the tuna can from the air cleaner and patched the hole, not proud of the patch but it will work.
Today 16th: got the core support fully remounted, got the fenders bolted back on, got the battery box in and the brake pedal reinstalled with new bushings and switch contact pad. Got the low pressure side of the power steering done, So the power steering is sealed up. Got the radiator remounted and plumbed up, hose clamps and all. Not sure what to do about the little nipple that comes off the top tank of the radiator. Got the air cleaner mounted and the vacuum shutoff valve setup. Need to test it to make sure it works in reality as It should in theory, and make a bracket to mount it. Also installed the valanceand new rear driveline. Tomorrow will be hooking up the battery and a list of other misc. things which include its maiden test start. And if I have time to bleed the brakes and the clutch and fill and bleed the other systems I will see about mounting the intake and some direct turbo piping and maybe squeeze in a driveway test. I am still trying to figure out how I'm going to mount and plumb the intercooler and how I'm going to miracle the second turbo in there. I may need to try and sell it and buy a single variable vein turbo or something. Not much for pictures folks.

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Not much for updates, got the battery in, cooling system filled, motor started and such on the 17th. I had some wiring issues to resolve. The motor was trying to cold start and somehow I had no power to th glow plug relay, boost pressure switch, vacuum shutoff or the Dakota Digital tech converter. Turns out I wasn't getting ground to anything... I wrapped up my ground line when I wrapped my loom lol. Also, the common ACC. On wire I was grabbing power from on the old wiring harness had slipped out of the back of the plug. Found another spot for it where it had a more positive lock. After that it started we up and shut down perfect. Tach works but needs adjusted as it reads low. Voltage gauge works and the alternator does charge the battery, the temp sensor on the Mercedes doesn't seem to be working with the Toyota gauge, I'm going to remove the glow plug relay side and ground it and see if things change. Lastly, the oil pressure gauge doesn't not work, its using the original sender, the wiring was extended about 2 feet and I know there is pressure where it's attached because there is a leak at the fitting that gets pretty heavy when running. I will shore up the leak soon. I guess I will have to see if the oil pressure sender wiring attached to one of the ECU or body plugs that were on the engine harness and carried on to the gauge cluster. When I gutted the plugs I knew the oil pressure and coolant weren't attached to the harness, maybe they attach in the cab somewhere... I don't know. Anyway, I spent yesterday doing body work
to the transmission tunnel to make room for the transfer case shifter bracket and to get the tunnel to match the shifter boot so it bolts down and seals well. Also, had to reshape the shift lever so that nothing interfered, it was hitting the dash. Burned up
The only contact tip I had for my ESAB, so I have to wait until Monday to get a new one and finish the tunnel work. Keep all of this in mind those of you who have PM'd me about adapters. Having the split case makes for
more Custom work. Nothing much for pictures at the moment I was a little too busy. I won't have an update for today because I have other engagements I have to attend that were promised before the motor swap began. I need to get the throttle linkage built, with it I should be able to bleed the brakes, install a seat, install the intake and some plumbing directly to the intake from the turbo and pop a air filter on and test drive it.
 
um .... that is a HUGE update
 
Update for the 22nd: well, coolant sensor wouldn't work so I used the one I made for my OM617 Toyota T100 swap. Works now. I also figured out the oil pressure gauge, turns out the ground wire for the sensor had broke at the plug and was just held together by insulation. Tach doesn't work past 2k rpm so I have to figure out how to program it. No trans tunnel work, got welding tips this morning because nobody local carried them, had to be ordered out of Portland. I did, however, manage to make some pretty slick throttle linkage with cruise control. I scalped the cams off the 1fz and modified them and used some parts off the old t100 throttle body. Works great and looks decent. Found out the vacuum valve I'm using for shutoff gets pretty toasty and starts opening and kills the engine, I will need to find a better vacuum valve. My other concern is that the starter circuit seems to be kinda crappy. Turn the key and nothing, fiddle with the wiring and key etc and eventually it starts. Will have to look into that too. A seat, an air filter for the turbo and some form of piping between the turbo and intake and bleeding the brakes is all that is needed to test drive it. OH! and if you want to speed up your windows then this swap is for you, mine are roll down and up at normal car speeds, happy side effect. A few pictures of what's been done.

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Update August 23rd: The day was a frustrating success. My back has been really bothering me so I've been taking my meds and they make me both forgetful and drowsy. Hard to get anything done when every time you set something down you immediately lose it and have to spend the next 10 minutes searching for it lol. I did manage to build a mount for the intercooler and get that all figured out and a location decided upon. Also started running the piping ;what a pain. The passenger/ turbo side is in and the driver/ intake side is 3/4 done. I will have to attempt to cut down a couple bends and weld them together tomorrow for the final piece. The driver side is quite a mess to run tubing through. Unless you have room for an intercooler like diesel adapters uses or one like CATuned used on their 60; you get stuck trying to run piping through the core support between the fender liner. There is so much going on in the corner of the frame on the driver side that it's nearly impossible. Brake lines, power steering lines and hydro assist lines in my case. Ended up coming up through the outer corner of the batter box lol. Then went straight out the back of it. Definitely not ideal, but seems like it should work. On to the pictures.

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Last pics for today. (These pics were also from the 23rd, guess I passed out before hitting the post button lol)

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