My 3 linked daily driver build thread (1 Viewer)

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Well, today was a stalemate. Had all of the intercooler tubing ran yesterday except for one section that needed welded together to complete the run from the cooler to intake. Turns out I got the welding hair up my A$* and decided to get rid of the cluster of intercooler tubing by cutting and welding most of it into 4 tubes. 2 long complex bendy tubes and 2 90* bends at the intercooler. Made the turbo side follow the frame rail and brought it down about 7" from where it was. I was working only with the tubing and couplers I had and decided I needed to clean it up instead of Just going with what I had. I'm a couple small pieces and welds away from the new turbo charge pipe being complete. I'm within 2" of the 90* but not a good scenario for using a coupler. I hope to have it done tomorrow. Also spent some time finding smaller welding tips, getting my steel mix filled and getting some smaller diameter wire to finish the transmission tunnel. I'm going to cut out the patch I was working on and just use some new; less crappy patch metal. I had a big piece I had forgot about from when I did the rear fender trim. Should make welding go a little easier. I will add pictures tomorrow when I get some of the finished pipes.


EDIT: I'm a fat mouth liar, intercooler plumbing came out to be 3 tubes, turbo side is 1 crooked pipe .... politician crooked. The intake side is 1 crooked pipe and a 90* bend at the intercooler.

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Anybody have any interest in parts off of the 1fz (1993) or any interest in the A442f or HF2AV? I will be posting the 94 ECM, Intake tube, VAFM, igniter and ignition coil in the parts classifieds, but before I take the rest to scrap I'm seeing if anyone would like specifics off the engine. I know someone recently wanted the oil cooler so I may keep that and the dizzy, but what else?
 
Update August 26th. Got the intercooler mount finished, added a few more support tabs and a piece to bolt the hood latch to also. Got the intercooler installed and plumbed and the intake adapter drilled and tapped and the hose barb for the outside ALDA installed. Plumbed said ALDA. Installed the intake manifold gaskets and fully installed the intake. Did a few other small things like re-wrapping the wiring harness where I had unwrapped it to figure out my wiring issues. Tightened the starter signal wire, cut my battery tray to pieces... I will be on the hunt for a new one the moment I build a new intake and redo the intercooler pipe on the intake side with proper bends. Hopefully I will get my brother to help bleed the brakes tomorrow, finish the transmission tunnel amen seal the cab, take it for a test drive.
 
I finished the transmission tunnel today, reshaped the transfer case selector lever yet again...to close to sheet metal for my liking. I treated the metal and used a whole caulking tube of seam sealer to seal the modified area and surrounding area. Cut all of the brackets and tabs (except for console tabs) off the old shifter plate, drilled all the spot welds, painted it, packed some left over seam sealer in the old transmission shift hole. Installed it and modified the shift boot support plate I purchased to use the shift boot I had also purchased as a secondary sub boot. Got the trans tunnel all sealed and leak tested with some rolled coal. Brakes didn't get done due to lack of help and tubing. They will get bled tomorrow. I will focus on brake bleeding and a test drive tomorrow, anything else is a bonus. This thing is taking forever! If all goes well I will modify the air clearner to movenit further toward the fender to gain some room. I will then figure out the second turbo hopefully. I have ideas, but they hinge on several things so we will see. Hopefully I can get it street legal tomorrow (headlights, side markers, fully mounted bumper). Maybe modify the fuel filler restrictor.
 
It's been a few days, so update time: got the sidemarkers, headlights, driver seat all installed. Took it for a test drive. Drove like garbage! Really quite upsetting. Came back and checked it out, checked the timing and it was dead on what was written on the tag. "Fit x (pump block) 11* BTDC" so I adjusted both directions in a futile attempt to get it to run decent, no luck. So I got ahold of Luke at DieselPumpsUK who writes "the tag should have read 11* ATDC" so it was 22* off. No wonder! Spent the rest of yesterday removing the pump and reinstalling and trying to get the timing right, got it right but the pump was maxed out one direction and I had to remove it again and recenter it today. Took it for test drive again, drove fairly decent. Pretty spirited first through third gear, bogged a bit between fourth and fifth, which may be due to slow shifting since I haven't had a manual in a while. I'm sure when it gets some more turbo behind it, it will hopefully be even better. Figuring out the second turbo is the next task.

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Well it's update time again. Not that anyone has really been following this anyway, but here's the news. I figured out a way to package both turbos under the hood, may involve getting rid of the factory air cleaner. Should it come to that I will figure out another solution to utilize the snorkel once more, meanwhile running a cone air filter. The solution involves running turbos in a non-traditional manner, thanks @ravenholm for the inspiration. I had all kinds of ideas and parts made etc... then came time to put the engine in and everything went to sh@. So I adapted the HX35/40 hybrid to the exhaust manifold utilizing my own version of DPUK's adapter made from the flanges I already had and a 45* 2.5" sch40 mild steel elbow. Don't worry, it's not as hillbilly as you're imagining, I did it up nice by tapering the very short curved pipe from 2" to 3" and rectangled out the 3" side to fit the flange. Added my wastegate port and EGT bung back on. Then I used parts of the 3" 409 stainless donut I had made some parts from to create a short very very tight 90 off the HX V-Band and then used another short tight 90 tapered from 3" to 2" offset 90* on that. Imagine a c-shape, now in the middle of the "c" twist the top half 90" and that's what I did. Looks like a stubby bull horn. Welded the kkk k14 flange to that...or rather I half welded it, still need to finish. Then I will be left to figure out drains, the k14 is the only questionable drain but should work. A few pictures of what's going on.

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A few more

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Proverbial 10# of !@#$ in a 5# bag, eh? Looks good, I would imagine the second turbo will wake it up a bit.
 
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Some pictures of how the mounting turned out. Looking at how this turned it and the parts I didn't need, could have saved a several hundred dollars on this whole swap, could have gone with a single turbo and saved $1700 alone on the hx35/40, k14 rebuild, kinugawa waste gate and turbosmart waste gate...that's after purchasing a turbo that would have worked...I just couldn't get anyone to divulge their turbo type for the swap....future reference...Holset HE341CW... would work for around 350hp and can be had remaned for cheap. That's my big double middle finger to all those who were trying to hide their setup and being douchey.

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Today was a kind of lazy day, I unbolted and disconnected the fuel filter neck and cut out the restrictor, flushed the tube and reinstalled. I reinstalled the e-locker wiring heat shield on the frame and the catalytic converter heat shield from replacing the rear heater lines and hoses. I had to remove the shifter cover plate to get my yellowbox speedo recalibrator into the cab. I also remove the transfer shift bolts and put the selector lever brace on(modified for 2-Low). Also wanted to add some m6x1.0 nutserts instead of using the oem sheet metal screws I was using. I disassembled the turbo setup and ground some away the output flange for the HX40 to make a hose barb. Noticed I was missing an adjusting screw from one of my boost elbows, they're adjustable kinugawa units so I can fine tune Waste gates. Oriented the Turbo Smart hyper gate and swapped the fittings around to the proper sides. Cleaned up that dirty looking adapter, looked almost like flux core it was so sooty. Should have washed me greasy hands before handling the parts and should have cleaned the parts better before welding, no porosity or anything, just sooty. Wrapped the adapter for the small turbo in some leftover header wrap and ordered an electric vacuum solenoid for shutoff since the Toyota units get too hot and start applying vacuum to the shutoff. Ordered some fittings for drain plumbing to make it more clean looking and some miscellaneous other stuff. Anyone have any input on AVM Hubs?
 
Not a lot got accomplished today, I reassembled the turbo setup to figure out oil feed and drain lines and realized I'm 1" shy of enough return hose lol! Just my luck. If I had the fittings I just ordered it would probably work out, but I'm Trying to get it on the road and get a shakedown done. Making the drain line pretty is making the whole engine pretty again are one the list but not necessary. I did reorient the end of my intercooler tube, used the last 90" pipe I had, along with the silicone elbow I had for the k-14 to adapt up in size. Essentially added an aluminum 90 the silicone 90 that was in the previous pictures and a silicone straight to couple them. Also removed the HX40 compressor housing for some sacrilegious bastard filing of the output flange. Shaved it down and tapered it to make a 2.5" barb for a silicone 90 to feed the K-14. The K-14 is an odd little turbo. The inlet is 2-3/8" the outlet is 1.9***", the turbine housing is a triangular bolt pattern that Mercedes never offered a gasket for, and the flange is crooked....yep the flange tilts the turbo at an odd angle upward also, the exhaust outlet is angled too...on the turbine housing. Very odd little turbo. So, to overcome the need to adapt the 2 separate sizes (originally 2-3/8 to 3") to 2.5" I came up with a solution. I cut down a scrap piece of intercooler tubing that had a bead rolled on it, expanded a hair at the non-beaded end with an exhaust pipe expander and pressed it over the K-14 inlet. Tight fit and now the k-14 is both 2.5" and has a bead to hold the hose which I was worried about before. Blah blah blah... onto the pictures.

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Not a lot to report. Pictures would look the same so there's no point to posting any. What I did do was manage to get some oil drain line to use for now until I order pretty stuff. I got the turbos fed and drained and the alternator hooked up....the nut that was holding the charge wire had come off during my initial single turbo 22* out of time test run and I didn't notice until doing the drain lines lol...yep...mechanical diesel just keeps running when you only have <8 volts in the bank. Amazingly it fired up cold blooded on 8-ish volts after the turbos were plumbed. I was shocked... no pun intended. I drove it and it was still gutless taking off in first and has black smoke...it has a lot more pep once it's going though. I'm thinking I have some serious exhaust leaks going into my turbos. Noticed the tiny turbo has a decent gap that's made the flange sooty on one side. I will break it down yet again when check the HX40 seal surface. I found aftermarket gaskets for the Mercedes flange; I just hope they actually fit properly. I will see about surfacing the flanges and install the gaskets when they arrive, hopefully that gets the drive pressure going and gives me some better pedal response. If not, I will sh@ can the compound setup, buy an HE351CW and call it a day, sell my hybrid HX35/billet super 40 to recoup some cost and maybe buy some
Upgrades lol.
 
EXHAUST LEAKS! EXHAUST LEAKS EVERYWHERE! Probably why I have no boost and having takeoff issues etc...I have a wastegate leaking so I'm losing drive to the HX40 which is passing on its limitations to the exhaust outlet and inlet of the k-14. Then I have a major leak at the HX40 exhaust outlet itself, and at the k-14 inlet. All said; there is a lot of missing drive pressure.
 
Still waiting to here back on a new V-band flange for the HX40. Surfaced the k14 mating flange and have been tearing apart the interior and replacing the AC expansion valve, cleaning the evaporator etc.... I ordered some sound deadening material, purchased some padding backed thermal barrier and some new carpet pad. I will clean the carpet and interior pieces I have removed as I install them. I will work on wiring the EGT and Boost gauges. I have stuff to do is the long and short.
 
No idea what is going on, but the truck is just not running right. Gutless and smokes bad taking off in first or reverse. I have been talking to DPUK and they think it may have been damaged more than initially thought when it showed up shipping damaged. They want me to send the pump back for recalibration. Waiting to see if they expect me pay shipping both ways again...because that's $6-700 just in shipping and wouldn't be acceptable. Not sure what else to do at the moment. Waiting for a response and I'm not sure how to respond back should they expect me to pay shipping on a pump that was a lot of money that arrived damaged.
 
Man, you sure are putting a lot of work into this thing. You must have the patience of a nun! Very nice work
All swaps are nothing more than an exercise in patience. I appreciate the kind words. I hope to get it running properly sooner than later. Then I can move onto making a new front shift console that works with the manual shifter and transfer case shifter, gauges, switches etc..
 
any progress? hoping you get it running right soon if not already!
I called the salvage yard today to ask if they had tracking info or an ETA on the replacement motor. Waiting on a call back. I have a feeling it's sitting at UPS freight like the last one did for almost a week before they bothered calling me. All of my replacement gaskets, filters and hoses are here so I'm waiting to get the motor and get it compression and leak down tested. If all goes well I will pull the other drivetrain and swap parts around and get it back together. I made a dedicated thread for the swap that I've been updating as things transpire.
Mercedes OM606 turbo Diesel 80 series Land Cruiser

@Bryan Plunkett how is your project coming?
 
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ahhh I see you've got a specific thread for the engine swap. Just read it now...sorry to hear about the blownish engine, that seems pretty uncommon for these. Hopefully you have better luck with the next one! Also makes me hope mine is ok, (haven't run it yet). I'm still knocking out little things including some rust holes in body, hoping to add an update shortly. Last big item is going to be the wiring and the exhaust.
 

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