My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread

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looks good...best part is the VT plate :cool:

is that an e-type jag in the background? :grinpimp:

Thanks, & yup, not mine (thankfully) it is waiting for new rad hoses, total PITA.




Spent the afternoon getting to know the AC system. Finally have some definitive information.
The 60 series amp will not work without the coil signal. I did not verify if you could just put power to the black wire (I think that would actually work, but I will let someone else fry their amp).
I have the tach translator set to read too high, the amp has no problem reading the signal, since it operates off the same circuit as the tach, the tach reads too high, so the amp thinks there is plenty of rpms.

The 62 amp is a direct swap, unplug one, plug the other in. The 62 amp has an extra spade terminal on the side that has a line going to the starter magnetic switch circuit. This line cuts out all the functions of the amp when it gets power. That way when you turn the key to start, the amp shuts down and disengages the clutch. If you plugged the 62 amp into the 60 AC system it would be a good idea to always make sure the ac switch is off before trying to start the engine.

This sounds relatively simple as I write it down, but I spent the better part of the afternoon fiddling with the system because it would not work. It turns out that my pressure switch spontaneously decided to crap out, nothing to do with all the things I changed but crippling just the same.

I do not think I really want to vacuum out the system, pull the evaporator again and replace the pressure switch, I just unplugged the pressure switch, jumped the two terminals and the system runs continuously (when the ac switch is on). I guess I just need to turn it off every so often to simulate cycling the pump.

The simplest way to make the system work manually is to jump together the yellow wire and the black-white wire on the amp, this still allows the use of the AC button, but bypasses all the functions of the amp.


Since the Dakotadigital unit is going to need to stay, I mounted it and the glow plug relay inside a little tackle box and bolted it to the fender as well. I have an "inductive sensor" coming in on monday that I will put in the bellhousing (pulled the starter motor and measured where the flywheel teeth are) to run the translator and hopefully get the right signal. :cheers:
TachTranslator.webp
AMPWork.webp
 
Tick tick indeed.
Seem to have the clutch issue sorted out.https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=2358314#post2358314
I am planning on leaving for a "test drive" tomorrow. :bounce:

Couldn't live with the semi functional AC, vacuumed out the system, replaced the pressure switch and did things right, cycles on and off like it should now.

Put the VDO sensor in the bellhousing, I got the tach to read much closer, still jumpy though, needs more fiddling.
Did a full coolant flush and replaced with Toyota red
Changed the oil, new Toyota filter.
Filled the tank (with diesel, have to learn to look for the yellow)
and even went to the car wash today.
Now lets hope everything works like it should.
 
Kevin, Great Thread. I look every day for new posts. I am planning to do much of the same but I have to get the 1HZ back together. Work, kids and summer activities seem to keep me away form my projects.

Did you take your shake down cruise? What is the verdict on the 4:11 gears? Do you wish you had the 3:73? I have been kicking this around for a while. I have the 4:11 ( not installed) but am thinking of staying with the 3:73 to keep the engine at lower RPMs on the road.

Did you do anything special to "convert" the fuel tank? Some people say you should not use diesel in a gas tank. Something about corrosion if it galvinized or some such thing.

Keep the info flowing. It has been very helpful.:beer:

Thanks

Frank
 
Not an issue on Toyota fuel tanks
EPC J6 fuel tank.webp
 
Did you do anything special to "convert" the fuel tank? Some people say you should not use diesel in a gas tank. Something about corrosion if it galvinized or some such thing.

Not a problem using diesel in any fuel tank.
You can get corrosion problems if there's water in the fuel, but that's true for both petrol and diesel.
 
Did you do anything special to "convert" the fuel tank? Some people say you should not use diesel in a gas tank. Something about corrosion if it galvinized or some such thing.


Thanks

Frank
Ive had diesel in mine for nearly 2 years and no problems. As far as I can tell there is no difference in the tank construction.
 
Kevin,
i just finished your writeup...what can i say?
very clean, very nice install...i am impressed.

congrates on a job well done...
 
Thanks guys.

Shake down road test still in progress. :bounce: At a friends house in Sedona AZ right now, internet access for the first time.
I80 sucked (but the truck sure can keep up) been exploring WY,CO,UT,AZ still more to come, drove down from Moab yesterday.

The engine has been running great, mountain passes are much more fun now and the off road torque is amazing. engine temps stay steady until it gets over 90 outside, then long uphill climbs start to affect the water temp, not just the EGTs

As I have heard is the case with most JDM motors, it was grossly over-fueled. I could lay down a stream of black smoke if I pushed the thing. Fiddled with the fuel and boost compensator till I only get a puff when pushed hard.

That brings me to the next issue, I am getting terrible fuel milage, average about 17.5, barley able to break 20 on an easy day. Any ideas? Every thing runs great, but terrible fuel milage.

I do not think I want to get rid of the the 4.11s, but I do wish I had a 6th gear. That first gear in low four is incredible.


That is it for off the top of my head, mind on the road trip, not on the thread, sorry.
IMG_1254.webp
 
check your clutch fan, i found they suck on long hills so i switched to a solid one and had not more over heating issues overfueling and with 14 lbs of boost on a bloody hot say climbing the coqu
(there is quite a discussion here, do a search, some agreed some strongly opposed)
do you ahve AC and is it turned on? that can affedt the fuel milage, over reving with low diffs can cause a dramatic decrease in fuel milage...what rpms are you turnign at what speed? 3.7 will help in this case...
 
I'v notice when you are under optimal gearing you can get terrible fuel milleage, worse than if you are over the optimal gearing ( at least with H55F ) most if you also run full loaded of camping stuff .. ;)

If your EGT are good and you are getting much black smoke behind you, maybe meands your tips need to be cheked.
 
Thanks guys.

Shake down road test still in progress. :bounce: At a friends house in Sedona AZ right now, internet access for the first time.
I80 sucked (but the truck sure can keep up) been exploring WY,CO,UT,AZ still more to come, drove down from Moab yesterday.

The engine has been running great, mountain passes are much more fun now and the off road torque is amazing. engine temps stay steady until it gets over 90 outside, then long uphill climbs start to affect the water temp, not just the EGTs

As I have heard is the case with most JDM motors, it was grossly over-fueled. I could lay down a stream of black smoke if I pushed the thing. Fiddled with the fuel and boost compensator till I only get a puff when pushed hard.

That brings me to the next issue, I am getting terrible fuel milage, average about 17.5, barley able to break 20 on an easy day. Any ideas? Every thing runs great, but terrible fuel milage.

I do not think I want to get rid of the the 4.11s, but I do wish I had a 6th gear. That first gear in low four is incredible.


That is it for off the top of my head, mind on the road trip, not on the thread, sorry.

Is that mpg in US gallons?If so its sounds ok to me.17mpg is around 14ltr/100klms
The 1HZ in the 105 series seem to get the best fuel consumption of around 12ltr/100.
I suspect it has to do with their lighter front diff,the R151 gearbox and slippery shape

There is not a lot of choices on the gear ratios.
Only 4 that I can see
1 fit 3.7 and lose the low 1st
2 get some big tyres and lose the low 1st
3 fit some aftermarket gears to the T/case
4 learn to love it as it is
 
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That brings me to the next issue, I am getting terrible fuel milage, average about 17.5, barley able to break 20 on an easy day. Any ideas? Every thing runs great, but terrible fuel milage.

What were you expecting for fuel economy?
That doesn't sound far off for US gallons (as Roscoe has already said).
There seem to be a lot of unrealistic fuel economy expectations around this board. 12-14 litres/100km is normal.
 
There seem to be a lot of unrealistic fuel economy expectations around this board. 12-14 litres/100km is normal.

actually, there is real life posting of fuel economy on this board that exceeds his milage return. it could be the speed he is driving, could be size of tires, could be head winds, could be terrain covered.

just because you don't know how to drive doesn't mean those posting their milage results are liars. you have SO MUCH personal Toyota experience that you can claim others are wrong... dumb s***. you go around insulting tradesmen and now you are calling Mud members liars.

out of curiousity, what models of Toyota Land Cruiser have you owned and driven and for how long? I am sure there will be a few insulted members that would like to hear this answer.
 
Over the top Wayne.

These are the official Australian government figures on a 1HD FTE and a 1HZ in a 2003 78 series.
They are real world figures and have proven to be close if a little optimistic.
I believe it represents 3 cycles of highway,suburban and traffic jam

2003 Toyota Landcruiser 78 Cab-chassis 2seats Man 5speed
4.2L 6cyl 1HD FTE 4WD Diesel 11.7 l/100klm
309 grams of carbon per klm

2003 Toyota Landcruiser 78 Wagon 11seats Man 5speed
4.2L 6cyl 1HZ 4WD Diesel 13.6 l/100 klms
360 grams of carbon per klm

Im not sure if the turbo will improve Kevins mpg as it is not direct injection like the factory turbo.
Its amazing the difference in carbon output between turbo and NA
 
actually, there is real life posting of fuel economy on this board that exceeds his milage return. it could be the speed he is driving, could be size of tires, could be head winds, could be terrain covered.

just because you don't know how to drive doesn't mean those posting their milage results are liars. you have SO MUCH personal Toyota experience that you can claim others are wrong... dumb s***. you go around insulting tradesmen and now you are calling Mud members liars.

out of curiousity, what models of Toyota Land Cruiser have you owned and driven and for how long? I am sure there will be a few insulted members that would like to hear this answer.

What is wrong with you Wayne? I've read many of yours and Dougal's posts now, and to me you are the one being rude and insulting, Dougal the informative one. Please dont post more of this personal attacks on Dougal, or anyone else -it is not good for anything.

To consumption: I don't know how the 1HZ should perform in a 60 series. But my BJ75 with turbo, 14psi max, rather lean on the fuel, uses a minimum of 10 litres/100 kms, and maximum of 12 litres/100kms. It runs on 9.00-16s, with 4.11 diffs. Think the rpms at 100 km/h is around 2000 in 5.th gear. That being sad, I never go above 100 km/h for more than short periods of time. Distance is of course calibrated with gps.

Best regards
Vegard, Norway.
 
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Its amazing the difference in carbon output between turbo and NA

Are they comparing the same body?
2 seats sounds like a ute, where 11 sounds like a troop carrier. I can imagine the extra weight of the troopy taking it's toll on the urban cycle, aerodynamics there can't be much in it.
 

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