i get a minimum of about 18mpg with the 1HZ in my 60, but I am consistantly over 20 and upwards of 25 on the highway if i drive conservatively. This is without a turbo though and the fuel turned down slightly.
My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter kevinmrowland
- Start date
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
My Tencha have nothing factory now .. but I get about 24 km/g ( us GAL ) on she cruising at 100 - 110 km/h ( that means 2500 rpm as max )
crushers
post ho
this still doesn't make the Mud members liars for posting up their own real world findings.
again what speed is the guy driving? what air pressure? is the rest of his drivetrain in excellent working order, drag will cause fuel milage drop. clutch slippage, brakes dragging slightly, etc etc.
it is a used engine, does the injectors need cleaning or rebuilding, maybe the quality of fuel he is using or fuel setting...
there could be a number of reasons why he is not getting the milage he was expecting.
70sguy
SILVER Star
Wayne.. Just for the sake of interest, not to revive an argument. I have been running that very fan and clutch assy on my 1HD-T powered 80. The one I sold you and then bought back after it couldn't keep your temps down on the Coquihalla. I have just over 50k kms on it since the swap. 12psi boost, slightly overfueled, stock intake and exhaust. The 80 weighs in at 5750lbs and I have done a number of trips up the Coquihalla and to California over the OR/CA border passes, once towing 1000lbs of trailer and gear and another just with the family where the temps were 100-117F. Needle has not moved from normal once.
So.. I guess all that proves is that it is possible to tune your engine beyond what the fan clutch can cope with. What I wonder is if the power gained by over tweaking the motor is worth the power lost to the solid fan mount.. someone smarter than I will have to answer that question.
Cheers
US or IMP gallons?
i can get anywhere from 22 to 26 MPG depending how i drive, so i can see how different numbers from different rigs can be common.
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Let us know what your long term average works out to. I've found calculating fuel consumption from single trips and single fillups is quite inconsistent.
Checking odometers for accuracy is good practice too.
Many of the figures I've seen quoted here were from single fillups or single trips. Such a situation contains a lot of variables which can swing the results wildly either way.
The long term average is the true test. Not the rounded up result of a best trip ever.
Several posters here have become concerned about their vehicles fuel economy by comparing their results to ones here. Causing them concern when their results are perfectly normal for these vehicles.
Unrealistic expectations resulting from poor quality information.
The figures Rosco quoted above is manufacturers claim for a new vehicle, the people I know with these vehicles had them new and keep them well maintained.
They are used in the conditions that made their purchase necessary.
Turbocharged engines are more efficient and if driven to the power level of a similar NA engine will give better fuel economy. But if you choose to use the extra power, the fuel economy will suffer.
Here is my experience with them . I put a brand new Aisan clutch fan on the 1HZ when it was rebuilt .
After 20000 klms it has lost its resistance and spins around by hand.
Unfortunately its out of warranty.
However I think they still they work well when working
Its not a manufacturers claim. I believe the tests are done by an independent body and approved by the govt before they can be attached to a vehicle.
This is to stop car makers claims of overly optimistic fuel economy
I was at a fuel stop recently and got talking to a farmer fuelling up his well maintained HDJ80.
He had owned it since new and claimed he got 13-14ltr/100 since he has owned it.
He does a couple of days a week in the city managing his real estate and the rest of the time on the highway and at his farm.
US gal
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #194
Awesome, thanks for all the info, advice and encouragement, both in the thread and through PMs. It is really great to know that even when out in the middle of nowhere we all have the support of the MUD community.
Long before this swap happened I read through all the milage info and debate, My milage does not seem to indicate anything is drastically wrong, but it does indicate that there is some room for improvement. I would obviously like to get as good of milage as I can.
33' tires 4.11 diffs, H55, 2000rpm at 55, but there are a lot of roads between trails out here that are 65-70 mph roads. I will get a concrete rpm # for 65 latter today.
Do any of you think that I should get the injectors looked at/rebuilt?
Other than fiddle with the fuel (done) new air filter (done) drive more conservatively (I dont know if I can swing that one
) (I will admit that I am driving how I want to drive, not necessarily for milage) there is not much that can be done about the milage on the road. I am seriously considering putting the 3.7s back in, and this trip is a perfect time to think about it. Even though 1st in low four is incredible, lets face it, this is a big country, this is a road trip truck, not a rock crawler and comprises need to be made on either end.
It is great to get to know the new drivetrain by driving everyday, gps on hand, marking down the fuel used, milage and terrain covered, where the fuel was purchased and being able to really look at the numbers compared to the drivability. I recommend that every one take a new motor an a 3 week road trip.
I am going to read up on the clutch fan, see what all the fuss is about and I will have to re-catch up on everyones posts here, lots of info, thanks again, off to enjoy cruising around the high desert and mountains in our new diesel cruiser.
Long before this swap happened I read through all the milage info and debate, My milage does not seem to indicate anything is drastically wrong, but it does indicate that there is some room for improvement. I would obviously like to get as good of milage as I can.
33' tires 4.11 diffs, H55, 2000rpm at 55, but there are a lot of roads between trails out here that are 65-70 mph roads. I will get a concrete rpm # for 65 latter today.
Do any of you think that I should get the injectors looked at/rebuilt?
Other than fiddle with the fuel (done) new air filter (done) drive more conservatively (I dont know if I can swing that one
) (I will admit that I am driving how I want to drive, not necessarily for milage) there is not much that can be done about the milage on the road. I am seriously considering putting the 3.7s back in, and this trip is a perfect time to think about it. Even though 1st in low four is incredible, lets face it, this is a big country, this is a road trip truck, not a rock crawler and comprises need to be made on either end.It is great to get to know the new drivetrain by driving everyday, gps on hand, marking down the fuel used, milage and terrain covered, where the fuel was purchased and being able to really look at the numbers compared to the drivability. I recommend that every one take a new motor an a 3 week road trip.
I am going to read up on the clutch fan, see what all the fuss is about and I will have to re-catch up on everyones posts here, lots of info, thanks again, off to enjoy cruising around the high desert and mountains in our new diesel cruiser.
crushers
post ho
Kevin,
may i suggest one good long trip at the double nickle just to see what your milage will be? then go back to driving as you want (which is the way i usually drive unless i am on a putz somewhere)
what air pressue is the tires set at? for optimum tire pressue and for best tire where draw a line across the tire and drive straight ahead for a few yards, chech and see where the chalk wore off, if it is the outside then you need a bit more air, if inside then you should reduce the air pressue. (of course for best fuel economy slightly more air will give you less rolling resistance but then the centers wear quicker)
cheers and congrates on the conversion...
may i suggest one good long trip at the double nickle just to see what your milage will be? then go back to driving as you want (which is the way i usually drive unless i am on a putz somewhere)
what air pressue is the tires set at? for optimum tire pressue and for best tire where draw a line across the tire and drive straight ahead for a few yards, chech and see where the chalk wore off, if it is the outside then you need a bit more air, if inside then you should reduce the air pressue. (of course for best fuel economy slightly more air will give you less rolling resistance but then the centers wear quicker)
cheers and congrates on the conversion...
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #196
Wayne, that is a good suggestion, and I have tried twice now 
but didn't make it. I am planning on burning a tank at no more than 55 as soon as I can bring myself to do it. (turbo is fun)
I like your chalk on the tire test, I will give that a shot. I am picky about my tire pressure, tire wear and rotating the tires. I usually just look at the contact patch and keep an eye on the wear. Unfortunately I am most often running at too low of a pressure since I like to attempt to drive as much of whatever state I am in on washboarded dirt back roads. Whenever I do a longer stretch of highway I air back up to around 40, but that changes with the amount of gear.
On another note: How often do the Racor filters need to be changed? The gas one was small and cheap and was always changed as part of fuel diagnostics so I am not familiar with the diesel protocol.
but didn't make it. I am planning on burning a tank at no more than 55 as soon as I can bring myself to do it. (turbo is fun)I like your chalk on the tire test, I will give that a shot. I am picky about my tire pressure, tire wear and rotating the tires. I usually just look at the contact patch and keep an eye on the wear. Unfortunately I am most often running at too low of a pressure since I like to attempt to drive as much of whatever state I am in on washboarded dirt back roads. Whenever I do a longer stretch of highway I air back up to around 40, but that changes with the amount of gear.
On another note: How often do the Racor filters need to be changed? The gas one was small and cheap and was always changed as part of fuel diagnostics so I am not familiar with the diesel protocol.
If they are not blowing black smoke I cant see an inj rebuild making much difference to your economy.
Your engine's done 90000 klm? so you due to change them at 100000.
So, it sounds like if I was planning to build a HZ60 rig to pull a pop up camper around the Western states to do some mild trails, I would be happier with the 3:73 gears on 33inch tires and mated to a H55. Would this be a fair conclusion from the statements above?
Frank
Frank
So, it sounds like if I was planning to build a HZ60 rig to pull a pop up camper around the Western states to do some mild trails, I would be happier with the 3:73 gears on 33inch tires and mated to a H55. Would this be a fair conclusion from the statements above?
Frank
I personally would stick with the 4.11. I dont know how fast you want to tow but 60-70 mph towing a trailer would be great with 4.11.
The only time I wish I had taller gears is when Im on incredibly flat,straight roads that stretch for hundreds of miles.
You will probably get more of that kind of driving in the US than I get here.
The best thing to do is go with what you got and if you dont like it ,then swap it
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I thought the perfect match in land cruisers are the 4.11 with 33" best overall setup ..
