What gauge pod is that on your dash?
My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread
- Thread starter kevinmrowland
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kevinmrowland
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- #123
The cover is from a 70 series, would have originally had an altimeter and in/out temperature display. I just cut out a piece of black plastic to mount the VDOs.
The pods from 4-runners do not come in a grey that matches the 60 dash, (brown, red and blue I think) I have another 70 pod that I put the guts from a 4-runner in (alitmeter/inclinometer) that was originally in this spot, I am hoping to mount it next to the new one as long as it doesn't look too weird.
kevinmrowland
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Hummmm, is there any way to test this? (other than putting another one on and seeing if it helps?
I am cobbling together enough of an exhaust to at least hook up the VDO pyro at the moment so I can get an actual numerical read on the temp.
However since I squeezed more coolant in it has been fine on a few trips around the block (no hills, not very fast, not much of a test)
The fuel cut definitely will not reopen when it gets hot. Is there any way to pull it without pulling the entire compensator?
Any of you guys recognize this pyro? It was on the motor, would be nice to hook it to something.
kevinmrowland
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Gota love Toyota, they made is so you could JUST unscrew the solenoid. I am thinking that the 24v solenoid is the culprit.
When it is hot it will respond to over 14v (reasonable for a 24v item)
Anybody have a 12v fuel solenoid (available FAST)?
I am off to post in the diesel parts section.
sounds like a bad solenoid. my 24v solenoid has been getting 12v to it for over two years and works perfectly. ENS will be able to help you and a 12v should be availble as ishobie mentioned.
kevinmrowland
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- #128
Sounds like I will be calling them first thing in the morning, overnight from Canada is gona hurt:whoops:
VT, I though you were running a 24v setup, my bad.
On another note, I have been getting braver on my runs around town, went out a bit further last time. Took it up to 65 and pushed on the acceleration a bit, no overheating problems yet.
Boost reads max at 11.75psi, bit higher than I thought I wanted, but I am leaving it be for now.
EGTs did not go past 450, but then my exhaust is only 12" long.
I will have to say she feels A lOT stronger than the ol 2F. I still have not put the pedal to the floor yet, pulling away at 65 the pedal is only about 1" depressed, that means there is a whole 3 other inches I haven't tried yet.
I think I may be wishing I did not put the 4.11 gears in, 1st is pretty much useless at this point, 2nd pulls from a dead stop just fine, but that is how a truck is supposed to run!
Sounds like a jet engine coming down the street.
VT, I though you were running a 24v setup, my bad.
On another note, I have been getting braver on my runs around town, went out a bit further last time. Took it up to 65 and pushed on the acceleration a bit, no overheating problems yet.
Boost reads max at 11.75psi, bit higher than I thought I wanted, but I am leaving it be for now.
EGTs did not go past 450, but then my exhaust is only 12" long.
I will have to say she feels A lOT stronger than the ol 2F. I still have not put the pedal to the floor yet, pulling away at 65 the pedal is only about 1" depressed, that means there is a whole 3 other inches I haven't tried yet.
I think I may be wishing I did not put the 4.11 gears in, 1st is pretty much useless at this point, 2nd pulls from a dead stop just fine, but that is how a truck is supposed to run!
Sounds like a jet engine coming down the street.
Kevin- if the cooling situation is still ongoing, see pimp's comment in this post
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=25649
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=25649
Wait and see how you feel when you get on a few steep offroad climb/descents.
I've found having a useless 1st gear in high range can come in handy, especially with a diesel. I've driven/ridden in my friend's 3B/H55 BJ75 pu and BJ70, and Luke Porter's HJ61 (12H-T) and like the H55f's 1st in all of them, all 4.11.. largest tires were 33s on Luke's. That BJ70 just got a lift and he's looking at 35/36s. 1st was useless on road for them all.
The '79 40 only has 3 useful road gears and that space between 3rd and 4th is painful on the road (SM420/2F/4.56) but rocked the lower crushers trail out here with just the 4spd case. OTOH the BJ42 is keeping it's stock H42 and getting a low end boost from a split-case 4.7 toybox.
At worst, it's no huge ordeal to swap out diff gears.
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That socket is for a standard K type.
Any K type thermocouple reader will work fine on it, almost all EGT gauges too. But you'll need a K type thermocouple extension cable, if you try to extend it with normal wires then it'll distort the reading, especially in an area with temp fluctuations like in the engine bay.
Hell, come Fall we can just swap again! Then I won't need rubber overdrive. Well that will work for me...not you!
Mitch/Dad
I looked for a 4-runner pod this weekend in the local junk yard....even went to Toyota to price an FJ cruiser one. I want to see if one of those will fit on a 40 dash, then splice in the boost, pyro, and tach gauges I have. The depth on the FJ cruiser one is about right, but I haven't looked at a 70 series or 4 runner one to see if they would look right on a 40 dash.
Sweet install on your motor....you did that in a tenth of the time I did.
kevinmrowland
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- #134
Ken, Cooing seems to be under control, I have a flush port on the top heater hose, I plan to flush and fill with Toyota red before we hit the road.
Pops, I figure if it is a problem I can just give you back your 4.11s and I'll put 3.73s from one of the other 60s back in. But I figure that if the speedo reads right, then it must be how toyota wanted it. The 4.11s are staying in for now, It feels more like it did with 31s on, but with a diesel, and a turbo, well, ok nothing like it did.
Dougal, thanks for the tip, K type huh? I will have to do some googling. What makes it a K type? the images of the "k type" look just like the "thermocouple" I have on the VDO but the resistance of the sensor is very different between the two.
rutbeer, I have the second 70 series pod coming from G&S, they might have more, if not then ebay seems to have them pretty regularly. I did have to do a good bit of modification to get it to sit on the dash (modification in this case means a belt sander)
Pops, I figure if it is a problem I can just give you back your 4.11s and I'll put 3.73s from one of the other 60s back in. But I figure that if the speedo reads right, then it must be how toyota wanted it. The 4.11s are staying in for now, It feels more like it did with 31s on, but with a diesel, and a turbo, well, ok nothing like it did.
Dougal, thanks for the tip, K type huh? I will have to do some googling. What makes it a K type? the images of the "k type" look just like the "thermocouple" I have on the VDO but the resistance of the sensor is very different between the two.
rutbeer, I have the second 70 series pod coming from G&S, they might have more, if not then ebay seems to have them pretty regularly. I did have to do a good bit of modification to get it to sit on the dash (modification in this case means a belt sander)
i am, but my solenoid gets 12v through a manual toggle.
Great thread. Thanks for posting up all the info and picts. Drool
kevinmrowland
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- #137
expensive little bugger at $181.99 
kevinmrowland
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Yup, that was a big part of the decision to go with the 1HZ, parts are at least somewhat available.
Oh, and thanks for the tip on the tinytach, I went ahead and ordered one, I still plan on using a translator for the OE tach, but the system for the tinytach is so simple, at the very least it will make calibrating the translator that much easier.
