My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread

[kevinmrowland]

Hahaa, thanks Gus, you know how this old rig started out, not much of those days left in her now.

Not a very big day today (back to work) got a bunch of parts ordered, already on the way are the Racor, clutch slave, new transfer gaskets, oil and air filters.
On the way this week are some "J Bends" 2.5" for the exhaust and 3" for a custom air intake tube. Silicone connections for the intake (plain jane black, this is not THAT kind of JDM) Long braided clutch and brake lines with metric adapters, I went ahead and ordered a tiny little fluid cooler, VDO boost pyro and oil gauges, a handful of other bits to make it all work. They should all be here this week, ready for another big weekend.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

That looks awesome Kevin.

Having gone down this road myself, I can tell you how awesome it will be when it runs--and it will run better than you think.

It's all those details (the brake lines, the PS lines) that take all your time and money, but they are also what keep it a pleasurable vehicle when it's done.

If I had a TiVo (or this was on TV), this thread would be on my list! I'm waiting for next weekend now

Dan

 

[Tapage]

I cut and remove my old PS lines in front of my 60 and add a PS cooler ( ya the same sh** like a tranny cooler ) and it's perfect from now ..

 

[kevinmrowland]

Slow day today, played with motor placement a bit more, lowered the radiator mounts and planned the shroud mods.

I found that if you clamp a support between and underneath the frame rails the motor oil pan rests on it and is held at just the right height (the trany is held in the right position by the OEM mounts) and you can scoot the motor to the left or right and get things just where you want.

Once I was sure about the motor placement I went ahead and lowered the rad.
In the top pic you can see the extra hole that I moved the top bolt to. The lower pic shows the holes for the lower mount drilled 7/8" lower,very easy and it looks like this will let the fan line up very nicely with the radiator.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Slow day today, played with motor placement a bit more, lowered the radiator mounts and planned the shroud mods.

I found that if you clamp a support between and underneath the frame rails the motor oil pan rests on it and is held at just the right height (the trany is held in the right position by the OEM mounts) and you can scoot the motor to the left or right and get things just where you want.

Once I was sure about the motor placement I went ahead and lowered the rad.
In the top pic you can see the extra hole that I moved the top bolt to. The lower pic shows the holes for the lower mount drilled 7/8" lower,very easy and it looks like this will let the fan line up very nicely with the radiator.

Dont forget to check the diff clearance and make sure the bonnet will close
You can also check the centrality of the gear stick through the hole in the floor.

There is also some sideways adjustment on the gearbox mount which has elongated holes on the crossmember(well the 70 series do).

Is there any scope for a taller radiator if needed as the 1HZ radiator in a 70 has a 1 inch extension on the lower tank compared to a 3F rad?

How long before a start up?
I nearly s*** myself when my rebuilt 1HZ started for the 1st time. Instead of a splutter and backfire, it just purred and I was so surprised

 

[kevinmrowland]

Dont forget to check the diff clearance and make sure the bonnet will close
You can also check the centrality of the gear stick through the hole in the floor.

Check, check and check. Thanks for calling that out though, probably should have mentioned those as well. It almost looks like it was made to bolt in there.

There is also some sideways adjustment on the gearbox mount which has elongated holes on the crossmember(well the 70 series do).

The 60 has oversized holes, not really elongated, but yes that gets scooted around as well.

Is there any scope for a taller radiator if needed as the 1HZ radiator in a 70 has a 1 inch extension on the lower tank compared to a 3F rad?

There is certainly a bit more room, but with a tight shroud and the fan lined up, I hope to be drawing plenty of air. One thing I though about: the 1HZ fan in very light compared to the 2F-3F fan, which has stouter blades and little extra airfoils molded on them. Is the 1HZ a more efficient blade? Or were the changes made as a cost cutting measure? If the 2F-3F blades perform better, it looks like they would swap right across.

How long before a start up?
I nearly s*** myself when my rebuilt 1HZ started for the 1st time. Instead of a splutter and backfire, it just purred and I was so surprised

 

[archtimb]

Dont forget to check the diff clearance and make sure the bonnet will close
You can also check the centrality of the gear stick through the hole in the floor.

There is also some sideways adjustment on the gearbox mount which has elongated holes on the crossmember(well the 70 series do).

Is there any scope for a taller radiator if needed as the 1HZ radiator in a 70 has a 1 inch extension on the lower tank compared to a 3F rad?

How long before a start up?
I nearly s*** myself when my rebuilt 1HZ started for the 1st time. Instead of a splutter and backfire, it just purred and I was so surprised

Don't worry about that bonnet. We will be fabbing up a old Chevy style hood scoop for it next weekend. Probably make it out of wood...

Mitch

 

[kevinmrowland]

Don't worry about that bonnet. We will be fabbing up a old Chevy style hood scoop for it next weekend. Probably make it out of wood...

Mitch

Uh, we'll try that on your hood first, yup.

 

[roscoFJ73]

There is certainly a bit more room, but with a tight shroud and the fan lined up, I hope to be drawing plenty of air. One thing I though about: the 1HZ fan in very light compared to the 2F-3F fan, which has stouter blades and little extra airfoils molded on them. Is the 1HZ a more efficient blade? Or were the changes made as a cost cutting measure? If the 2F-3F blades perform better, it looks like they would swap right across.

I remember thinking how beefy some of the bolt on 3F parts were compared to the 1HZ ,so yeah cost cutting is probably the answer.
But I also remember the 3F,1HZ and 2H all had a different blade pitch and depth with the 2H being the shallowest(memory fade).
I think it may have something to do with engine length.
Someone told me the fan has to match the clutch,which is why fan clutches are engine specific. I guess its to do with rpms etc.

Here is a pic of the difference between a 70 series 3F and 1HZ with their respective metal and plastic shrouds.
The 3F fan sits right up in the corner compared to the 1HZ which is more central.
The 1HZ radiator was a perfect bolt up allowing for some badly predrilled holes

 

[kevinmrowland]

Good point about the fan clutch matching the fan, makes sense. I am trying to do things right with the fan that is on there, we will see how it works.

Thanks for the pics, but one important note is that both those rads are for a 70 series, the 60 series are different proportions (more rectangular) Much more of the fins are covered by the fan with the 2F than with your 70series 3F. The 2F fan protrudes above the top, left of the rad and the 1H fan wants to protrude out the bottom right, hence the outlet interference. With careful placement I have the 1HZ fan protruding out the bottom a little bit, but mostly centered on the rad.

 

[BlueHZT60]

Good point about the fan clutch matching the fan, makes sense. I am trying to do things right with the fan that is on there, we will see how it works.

Thanks for the pics, but one important note is that both those rads are for a 70 series, the 60 series are different proportions (more rectangular) Much more of the fins are covered by the fan with the 2F than with your 70series 3F. The 2F fan protrudes above the top, left of the rad and the 1H fan wants to protrude out the bottom right, hence the outlet interference. With careful placement I have the 1HZ fan protruding out the bottom a little bit, but mostly centered on the rad.

Good job, you will appreciate the effort on the back side when you are ready to turn the key and go play with the HZ-60.

The HZ clutch fan is beefier than the 2f, plus the bolt pattern is just ever so slightly different. Now make sure the fan & hoses (that you will be fabbing together for the power steering) don't interfere with the other side of the fan blade - it's close enough that it warrants looking. I'd also consider splitting the fan shroud into two pieces - makes for much easier removal later withouth scraping knuckles, dinging the radiator and/or poking holes. Bob

 

[kevinmrowland]

I recommend the split fan shroud for all 60s, diesel or not, that has made my life much easier over the years.

Got the fan shroud cut, chopped, widened, sectioned and extended tonight, fits great, I think it will pay off in the end.
It was late and I was late for dinner, so no pics, I promise some for tomorrow. Lots of work in the shroud and I am sure there is more than one way to skin that cat, but it is worth posting my solution.

More tomorrow, looking forward to the weekend!

 

[kevinmrowland]

Little bit more today, getting ready for the weekend.
I snapped some pictures of the fan shroud from last night.

One of the guys that works at the shop with me is a hotrod/drag car guy, a wealth of advice on this stuff. He showed me how the hotroders around here make their motor mounts.
The stock mounts were not going to work out as well as I wanted so I gave the custom ones a shot, hotrod style.

What do you think? They are stronger in some ways, dubious in others, but they are certainly stronger that the OE broken one.
I think I like it, the plate without the hole spans the height of the frame and gets stitch welded in place.
Seems like a plan, but I have no idea what I am doing. Self taught welder to boot, so a little nervous.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Looks beefy enough to me. Dont forget you may need a tab for the diff vent to attach to,or you can hang it onto the new mount with a zip tie like I did
That shroud looks good too.
Why do NA landcruiser radiators have thE cap on the end of the tube rather than on top of the radiator?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks Rosco!!
To late to change now, went ahead an built the other one, welded them to the frame, they even have a coat of paint on them as of today.

Not as big of a weekend as I hoped, fighting off being really sick, still got some stuff crossed off the list.

Swapped the water temp senders from the 2F to the HZ, crossed right over.
Drilled out the spot welds on the fuel neck restrictor, pushed right out the bottom and welded the holes back up.
Mounted the 62 pedal assembly into the 60, hand throttle and all.
Cut the fuel and brake lines off at the transfer case, still need to extend them, but got the fuel all drained out, blew air through the lines and aired out the tank.
Started to sort out the old wiring harness, and started a bunch of other little things that I will report on when they are completed.


Need to find out what wires do what on the 1FZ alternator I am using, bolted right up just as G&S said it would.
Need to find out what kind of amps the glows draw.
Somewhat related: Would like to find out what vehicle the motor was originally from, then I could get an FSM for the things not covered in the engine FSM.

Why do NA landcruiser radiators have thE cap on the end of the tube rather than on top of the radiator?

Huh, I dunno, the overflow tube comes from there, were do yours come from?

Some pics of stuff:
Temp senders, what I finally did to swap the pedals (after a few other botched attempts) the removed fuel restrictor and More of the motor mounts.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Mounts:

 

[Tapage]

you shroud looks pretty nice .. only a litlle tight IMOP .. just in the pic maybe. But in my case I need to alowed more space since the engine movement at torque aplied on the aceleration instant. It raise clockwise.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Need to find out what wires do what on the 1FZ alternator I am using, bolted right up just as G&S said it would.
Need to find out what kind of amps the glows draw.
Somewhat related: Would like to find out what vehicle the motor was originally from, then I could get an FSM for the things not covered in the engine FSM.

I dont think the FSM would make much difference between a 75 ,80 or Coaster at the points where the electrics leave the engine bay but a 70 series electrical is close to a 60 series .
Glow plug relay has a 7.5 amp fuse,does that help?
What other kind of things are we talking about?
I got an auto electrician to wire my alternator,it needed and extra(3rd) ,thicker wire.
No idea what for.

Huh, I dunno, the overflow tube comes from there, were do yours come from?

Some pics of stuff:
Temp senders, what I finally did to swap the pedals (after a few other botched attempts) the removed fuel restrictor and More of the motor mounts.

Nearly all cruisers here have the rad cap on top of the rad.I think your rad have blank space for it. Overflow tube is underneath the cap.

 

[kevinmrowland]

I still need to final fit the shroud, I can fit my hand between the blade and the shroud everywhere except at the top, but that can be adjusted.

I was thinking of an FSM for stuff like the power steering pump, whether it takes ATF or not, the AC system, the alternator and the the glow system.

The switch side of the glow relay should not draw many amps, hence the relay part, does your FSM call out what the other side of the really draws?
Your thicker wire on the alt was probably to handle more amps? The alt output wires are obvious, but I do not know what the other three on the 80 alt do. The 60 only has two extra wires, one to excite the alt (tell it the motor is on) and the other is for the charge lamp circuit.
I need to go search the 80 section for some FZJ alt info.

 

[brownbear]

Kevin, I seen your post at the beginning asking what the part was attaching to the glowplugs. Mounted on the intake. It is a glowplug resistor. To give a voltage drop.

The plugs will be lower voltage than the truck voltage. In 12 volt system, plugs most likely will be 6 volts.

If you use plugs rated at 12 volts, bypass that resistor.

Going manual on the plugs? I would not bother with a timer.