My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread (1 Viewer)

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks brownbear, still looking for answers on some of those things I started with. That info definitely helps, I will have to look at the glow plug schematic again, that was in the engine FSM, right? I hope it was, stuff like that is why I think I would like a chassis manual as well.

Will the glows be labeled for voltage? I will look tomorrow. I am no electrical whiz but it seems strange that that thing would split the voltage for the glow since it was not wired in line with the glows. The same line that feeds the plugs was split and went to the resistor, wish I had the FSM in front of me.

 

[dieseltoyz]

For the tach and a/c amplifier signal Dakota Digital sells a unit that takes an RPM signal and alters it to whatever you need. Most of the time it's used for going from a v6 to a v8 etc where the tach signal pulse number has changed. This unit uses a binary switch assembly to vary the pulses based on your given perameters. -Todd

 

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks for the info, I have had this one bookmarked as a possible solution: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=128/prd128.htm
Is this the one your are talking about? The web description does not call out the specific application I was looking for, straight 6 gas coil signal to straight 6 diesel pump signal. If it came down to it I was going to contact the company and see if it would work.
I would prefer to use that as a last minute resort, I would rather not rely on a computer, not matter how simple, for any systems in the truck, my primary goal is simple reliability, I need the AC to work without input from non OEM pats, I would be fine with powering the tach off something like this though as the tach is somewhat of a luxury (i know. I know, so is the AC, but not to my wife )

 

[dieseltoyz]

Your alternator should not have a W terminal.

Try this one:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....tegory_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd127.htm

This works with most Toyota tachs. Call them and tell them what you're doing. They'll be able to make sure you get what you need. -Todd

 

[roscoFJ73]

Thanks brownbear, still looking for answers on some of those things I started with. That info definitely helps, I will have to look at the glow plug schematic again, that was in the engine FSM, right? I hope it was, stuff like that is why I think I would like a chassis manual as well.

Will the glows be labeled for voltage? I will look tomorrow. I am no electrical whiz but it seems strange that that thing would split the voltage for the glow since it was not wired in line with the glows. The same line that feeds the plugs was split and went to the resistor, wish I had the FSM in front of me.

An advert for 1HZ plugs on ebay labels them for a 12v system with 11v plug.

I run mine off a wire that used to go to the coil.Works great after 17000klms.
I just hold the button for 7-10 seconds in winter.
Its not as good as the OEM system on my 75 which takes 3-4 seconds at the same temp.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Your alternator should not have a W terminal.

Try this one:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....tegory_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd127.htm

This works with most Toyota tachs. Call them and tell them what you're doing. They'll be able to make sure you get what you need. -Todd

Ah, that makes a bit more sense, thanks. I take it you have been using them on your conversions with no issues?
Thanks for popping in on my thread, I really appreciate your help. You do nice work.

 

[kevinmrowland]

An advert for 1HZ plugs on ebay labels them for a 12v system with 11v plug.

I run mine off a wire that used to go to the coil.Works great after 17000klms.
I just hold the button for 7-10 seconds in winter.
Its not as good as the OEM system on my 75 which takes 3-4 seconds at the same temp.

10 seconds in winter, so what is that like when it gets down to 70 outside?

 

[roscoFJ73]

10 seconds in winter, so what is that like when it gets down to 70 outside?

Yep on the way to the beach for some exercise
The cold is terrible,I have to close the front door at 7 pm each night

Im thinking about changing the glowplugs and power supply for some quicker take offs.
I should also take it back to the shop that rebuilt my pump as he said he would do a final tune on the pump when the engine had done a few thousand klms

 

[dieseltoyz]

No problem...The easiest and most "factory like" way to wire in a glow system is with timers. The push button stuff just doesnt justify the conversion the way it should. The factory system uses a temp sensor to tell the glow plug system whether or not it's cold enough to operate. After the temp sensors have done their job, it's basically just timers. You can use two timers. Once the key is turned on, one timer will send voltage to the plugs for 5 seconds followed by another timer that then kicks on for 30 seconds as the vehicle is running to smooth out the engine. This system makes is too darn easy:
http://www.redarc.com.au/gpt.htm

 

[kevinmrowland]

Cool, thanks for the link, that is actually a pretty slick setup.
But remember, I am already used to a manual choke, glows are almost the same thing, and quite simple manually, i hope.

 

[rover67]

Having fun following this and am excited to be starting my own conversion soon. Just wanted to say thanks for all of the help before hand!

 

[kevinmrowland]

Little more today, hit a snag though.
Made a bracket for the racor, just a piece of angle iron bolted to the firewall flange.

Went to put the transfer on the HZs H55 and found that the output gear from my 2F H55 transfer will not slide far enough onto the output shaft. The grooves on the new shaft do not go far enough up to allow the output gear to slide on.

What output gear do I need to source?
Any ideas?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Pics of the problem gear

 

[kevinmrowland]

Good weekend, not sick this time around.

Bolted the motor into its new home on Saturday morn and went to town plumbing things in.
Ran the coolant lines, hooked in the heat exchanger, very happy with the way the plumbing worked out.
All hooked up except for the upper and lower rad hoses, tried some from a 1FZ, but not even close.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Got the brake and fuel lines rerouted, flared the fuel lines and hose clamped new rubber on. Double flared the cut brake line with a salvaged fitting and attached a stainless line to the end.
Same for the clutch, just one length of braided line with -3AN to metric 10mmX1.0 thread adapters on the ends. (you can see the line and one of the adapters in the second pic, I like this setup, cleaner than stock.)

 

[kevinmrowland]

Made a bracket for the PS fluid cooler we were talking about, hid the cooler over in the corner of the fender. I was not worried about airflow because of all the surface area of the new cooler, but the old air intake inlet is right behind the fins, so that worked out good.

I now feel really, really dumb for ever having replaced those pesky OE cooler lines when they rotted out years ago.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Next up, the vacuum canister, found a good place for that right under the LH battery tray, no more wasted space in there.
In the second pic you can see the bolts holding the can to the tray and the PS cooler over in the corner.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Got the 62 throttle cable attached at both ends, took some fiddling (including removing the stop bolt under the pedal, bending the hand throttle bracket a bit and mounting the cable end on the "wrong" side of the rubber mount) but the pedal moves the motor throttle assembly from stop to stop.

Got the fuel lines connected as well, you can see them in the bottom of the pic.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Painted the fan shroud and bolted the shroud/rad in place. The clearance looks good, you can see the room a bit better in this pic.
And if you look carefully at the second pic you can just see the outline of the fan and the shroud opening behind the radiator fins, I think it will work.

 

[kevinmrowland]

And finally, I cut the choke cable off the back of the choke assembly, removed the little ball detents and springs (so it does not go, click,click,click anymore) Then I put a compression spring in between the slide and the housing. Now the choke slides out nicely and springs back in when you let it go.
Why? Well the choke light gets power across it, that goes to the choke assembly then to ground, instead of going straight to ground, I will send it through a relay in the engine compartment then to ground so when you pull the "choke" the light comes on and the relay will close a connection for the glows.

I pulled one of the glows, G&S was nice enough to convert them to the 10.5 type, so I should be able to run 12v (going by what I have read on here regarding the "wilson switch") through the relay straight to the glows, bypassing the resistor.
You guys think an OE ignition relay could handle the draw from the glows? I like to cary as few spares as possible. If not, does anyone have a good relay to recommend?