Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Very impresive and clean your swap dude ..
My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread
- Thread starter kevinmrowland
- Start date
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Kevin,
Three ideas and an offer.
3" exhaust is going to be very tight coming down the right frame rail, around the T/C - your fuel/brake lines may/may not need to move just a bit.
On my HZ there is a bracket that hold the accelerator cable up, on the left side of the engine.
Hand throttle/bolt removal: make sure full/floored that the accel pedal doesn't hit the hand throttle bracket. On mine, I finally took it all out and chopped off the unnecessary 2f linkage and permanently sealed the hole. I still haven't verified if I get full throttle-hitting the stops on the pump, or just full pedal to the floor.
Since you went through the work with the choke switch, PM me your address and I'll mail you my "glow" light cover that I'm never going to get around to installing in place of "choke".
Bob
Three ideas and an offer.
3" exhaust is going to be very tight coming down the right frame rail, around the T/C - your fuel/brake lines may/may not need to move just a bit.
On my HZ there is a bracket that hold the accelerator cable up, on the left side of the engine.
Hand throttle/bolt removal: make sure full/floored that the accel pedal doesn't hit the hand throttle bracket. On mine, I finally took it all out and chopped off the unnecessary 2f linkage and permanently sealed the hole. I still haven't verified if I get full throttle-hitting the stops on the pump, or just full pedal to the floor.
Since you went through the work with the choke switch, PM me your address and I'll mail you my "glow" light cover that I'm never going to get around to installing in place of "choke".
Bob
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #83
Thanks Tapage, and thanks Bob!
My hotroder employee and I were just discussing ways to turn the choke light into "glow" today. That would be to cool, but only if you are not going to need it.
I do not think there is enough room for the exhaust between the front drive shaft, T-case, crossmember, and passenger frame rail taking up that real-estate.
I am planning/hopping to run the exhaust over the frame rail, out the back of the fender well (like on an 80 series 1HD-T) down between the frame rail and the rocker panel and out just in front of the passenger rear tire.
I need to look into the hand throttle again, I think it is still hitting the pedal when fully depressed. I bent the bracket a bit and called it good, but think it needs more attention.
Thanks for the advice, really appreciate the input on the project, good to have a resource like you guys on MUD.
No cool pics for today, worked on the wiring, got all the wires on the passenger side spliced and extended. I keep a spare 60 harness on hand so I salvaged the wires to be extended from it so the the colors and gauges match.
I hate when wires change color in the middle of a harness.
Extended to the other side of engine bay:
Black tach signal from coil
Yellow brown wire for the oil sender
Black with white for the starter circuit
Also spliced the plugs for the the FZJ alt into the harness, with the help of the 80 forum we figured out:
W= Output (that one was obvious).
YW= Charge lamp circuit.
BL= Ignition signal, tells alt when car is on.
B= Load sensing wire, adjusts the alt output to match system requirements.
More tomorrow.
My hotroder employee and I were just discussing ways to turn the choke light into "glow" today. That would be to cool, but only if you are not going to need it.
I do not think there is enough room for the exhaust between the front drive shaft, T-case, crossmember, and passenger frame rail taking up that real-estate.
I am planning/hopping to run the exhaust over the frame rail, out the back of the fender well (like on an 80 series 1HD-T) down between the frame rail and the rocker panel and out just in front of the passenger rear tire.
I need to look into the hand throttle again, I think it is still hitting the pedal when fully depressed. I bent the bracket a bit and called it good, but think it needs more attention.
Thanks for the advice, really appreciate the input on the project, good to have a resource like you guys on MUD.
No cool pics for today, worked on the wiring, got all the wires on the passenger side spliced and extended. I keep a spare 60 harness on hand so I salvaged the wires to be extended from it so the the colors and gauges match.
I hate when wires change color in the middle of a harness.
Extended to the other side of engine bay:
Black tach signal from coil
Yellow brown wire for the oil sender
Black with white for the starter circuit
Also spliced the plugs for the the FZJ alt into the harness, with the help of the 80 forum we figured out:
W= Output (that one was obvious).
YW= Charge lamp circuit.
BL= Ignition signal, tells alt when car is on.
B= Load sensing wire, adjusts the alt output to match system requirements.
More tomorrow.
I think its the best way ,the exhaust shop wanted to do some twisty windy thing underneath the gearbox to get across the the right.
I went with a OEM design and its much easier to work on without a warm exhaust in that area
Maybe the 60 series already has hangers down both sides like a 70?
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #85
Wiring, wiring, wiring. Three nights of it now.
Isn't the fuel cut solenoid supposed to click audibly when 12v is supplied to it?
Mine doesn't, that's not good.
Isn't the fuel cut solenoid supposed to click audibly when 12v is supplied to it?
Mine doesn't, that's not good.
Yes you need to be in the engine bay to hear it,not sitting in the car.
Ive had them clog up with gunk,so give it a polish.
If you need another,a 2L or 1KZ may work or possibly something off a Bosch pump
It looks good from that pic,the diesel really opens up some room when you lose all the smog equipment.
Your gonna have some jealous cruiserheads at the next meet n greet
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kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #89
So the fuel cut will click with 12v just fine, but not with the 10.1v my battery was giving after sitting for a few months. 
All better now.
Even with having been desmoged, there is still more room to get to things. Not only that, but things are in better places now, hard to describe, but the engine bay layout is simpler and makes more sense the way it is now.
All better now.Even with having been desmoged, there is still more room to get to things. Not only that, but things are in better places now, hard to describe, but the engine bay layout is simpler and makes more sense the way it is now.
Oh my, where to start.....I give chit to people who put 60 series front fenders on their 62s........
Per usual Kevin, you aren't looking to take the easy way out. Didn't your old man teach you better? Well, he did teach you stubborn that's for sure! Can't wait to see the running product in Sierra Vista really soon. Keep at it and good luck, Savant, but know now that you are the eternal tail gunner.
By the way, remind me to tell you the story of my 3FE friend who just won four auctions in the same week for Frito-Lay bread trucks with 4BT Cummins in them, when we are sitting around the campfire. Wait, campfire and AZ in July - is that possible?
Per usual Kevin, you aren't looking to take the easy way out. Didn't your old man teach you better? Well, he did teach you stubborn that's for sure! Can't wait to see the running product in Sierra Vista really soon. Keep at it and good luck, Savant, but know now that you are the eternal tail gunner.
By the way, remind me to tell you the story of my 3FE friend who just won four auctions in the same week for Frito-Lay bread trucks with 4BT Cummins in them, when we are sitting around the campfire. Wait, campfire and AZ in July - is that possible?
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kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #92
All this chit-chat better not get my thread moved out of the tech section. 
Thanks Steve, I think.
Thanks Steve, I think.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #94
Ok, ok, so I got some work done today. MORE WIRING! For such an electrically simple swap, there sure is a hell of a lot of wiring.
If my power steering line would hurry up and get here I think I could try and start this thing.
Got the pieces of the air cleaner/intake together today:
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust pipe (summit racing)
Silicone reducers to go from 3" to the Cruiser 2.75" (silicone intakes dot com)
T bolts from the same place.
I used the lower half of the can from a 3FE and the top from a BJ70. This combo seemed to get things pointed in the right direction.
If my power steering line would hurry up and get here I think I could try and start this thing.
Got the pieces of the air cleaner/intake together today:
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust pipe (summit racing)
Silicone reducers to go from 3" to the Cruiser 2.75" (silicone intakes dot com)
T bolts from the same place.
I used the lower half of the can from a 3FE and the top from a BJ70. This combo seemed to get things pointed in the right direction.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #95
The upper and lower rad hoses for the 1HZ are almost a perfect fit on the 2F radiator.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #96
Cobbled together fittings so that the turbo has its oil line, the OE electric pressure sender is hooked up, and I ran a braided stainless line for the VDO mechanical pressure gauge.
This was a bit of a bitch finding fittings that would work. The Toyota thread for these is 10mm x 1.0, same as brake fittings. Mine go back and forth between 10mm, 1/8npt and various -AN sizes.
This was a bit of a bitch finding fittings that would work. The Toyota thread for these is 10mm x 1.0, same as brake fittings. Mine go back and forth between 10mm, 1/8npt and various -AN sizes.
Don't suppose you can measure the diameter of your air can for me? I have a BJ40 can and the bottom works out great, but the top intake is much longer than the one you have, and I can't stand the way my hose worked out.....even if it is only temporary.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #98
11-13/16ths" The 3FE and the 70 series cans are the same size. Knowing Toyota, I would bet than any air can that looks like it is the same size, probably is.
For this application an air can lid from a 1HD-T would be better because it has the vent elbow for the rocker box vent and the output makes a 90 bend right down toward the turbo.
For this application an air can lid from a 1HD-T would be better because it has the vent elbow for the rocker box vent and the output makes a 90 bend right down toward the turbo.
11-13/16ths" The 3FE and the 70 series cans are the same size. Knowing Toyota, I would bet than any air can that looks like it is the same size, probably is.
For this application an air can lid from a 1HD-T would be better because it has the vent elbow for the rocker box vent and the output makes a 90 bend right down toward the turbo.
Is that a standard 60 series air filter box? My 61 had the box sitting about 2 inches off the fender but yours is close like a 70 series??
Some 70 get their air from next to the rad like mine,but they are all the same size lid and take the same filter, and 80 series too
Except the new 70 series ,they have a square plastic box.
My 3F box below
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kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #100
I cut the brackets off and mounted it close to the fender. It did not have enough room to make the bend down to the turbo otherwise.
