My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread (1 Viewer)

[redstang410]

I swapped a 1hz motor into a fz80.
Unfortunately the 1hz motor came from a 70 series truck with no tach, so the injeccion pump didn't have a tach signal.
What i did is take the pickup coil out of the distribuitor and mounted it over the A/C tensioner pulley. and epoxied 1 very small super magnet to the 3 inch pulley.
I left the coil and spark box in place and plugged in the "distribuitor" which is just the pickup coil.
I hooked up a sparkplug to the coil plug and grounded it.

The sparkbox still thinks it has a distribuitor hooked up. and every time the maget spins by the pickup , the coil sparks and the tach works and the A/C works.

It is pretty acurrate as the pulley on the damper is 9 inches in diameter and the idler pulley i used is 3 inches so the ratio is 3 ti 1. so every time the motor spins 1 rev, the coil sparks 3 times.
Being a 6 cilinder engine the ratio es pretty much dead on. At idle my tach reads 800 rpm and it redlines at 4200 rpm.

I'll try to take a picture and post it.

Hope this helps

 

[PAFJ]

Cool thread Kevin... I look forward to watching this!

 

[kevinmrowland]

I swapped a 1hz motor into a fz80.
Unfortunately the 1hz motor came from a 70 series truck with no tach, so the injeccion pump didn't have a tach signal.
What i did is take the pickup coil out of the distribuitor and mounted it over the A/C tensioner pulley. and epoxied 1 very small super magnet to the 3 inch pulley.
I left the coil and spark box in place and plugged in the "distribuitor" which is just the pickup coil.
I hooked up a sparkplug to the coil plug and grounded it.

The sparkbox still thinks it has a distribuitor hooked up. and every time the maget spins by the pickup , the coil sparks and the tach works and the A/C works.

It is pretty acurrate as the pulley on the damper is 9 inches in diameter and the idler pulley i used is 3 inches so the ratio is 3 ti 1. so every time the motor spins 1 rev, the coil sparks 3 times.
Being a 6 cilinder engine the ratio es pretty much dead on. At idle my tach reads 800 rpm and it redlines at 4200 rpm.

I'll try to take a picture and post it.

Hope this helps

Uhhh, ok, that is actually pretty cool. Way to trick the system
What about unnecessary electrical strain? And do you think the coil will burn out since it seems to be sparking more than it should?
What did you do to isolate the errant plug?
Certainly an interesting way to think about the problem.

 

[roscoFJ73]

My apologies ,it seems my aircon was wired into some wiring that had something to do with the coil although its no longer there.
I forgot I had to take it to a shop to have the 3F a/c hose fittings modified to suit the 1HZ compressor and filled with gas.
The guy did a good job but didnt speak much english and Im not good with electrics,so how he rigged it is beyond me although its neat and works perfect.

Note the bracket is also the engine lifting lug.

The wire with the blue terminal use to go to the 3F thermostat. The 1HZ and 3F temp sensor were almost the same so I plugged it ,hey it works

 

[kevinmrowland]

Ah, thank you very much, I am starting to understand more and more. The AC pic helps a lot.


Rather than a temp sensor, my HD-T turbo coolant return line is plumbed in to that port. I hope one of the other ports is a viable temp sensor.


After a clarifying phone call with my dad it appears that the 62 AC amp can operate independent of the coil signal, the 60 and 62 amps share a plug housing so hopefully it is a plug and play way to eliminate the need for a coil signal.

Now to get an AC pump mounted to the block.......

 

[redstang410]

Uhhh, ok, that is actually pretty cool. Way to trick the system
What about unnecessary electrical strain? And do you think the coil will burn out since it seems to be sparking more than it should?
What did you do to isolate the errant plug?
Certainly an interesting way to think about the problem.

If you think about it, the coil fires the same amount of times it would in a gas engine. I grounded the sparkplug with a wire to the neg on the batery and isolated the spark plug with rubber splicing tape.
Been fine for almost 2 years now. no problems at all.

The main reason I did it this way was that I really didn't want to dive into the cab's wiring trying to figure out how to make the A/C work without tach signal. Aside from that I wanted my Tach to work too and wasn't sure what else would stop working if I took out all the ignition stuff .

Now, if your 62 's A/C can run with no tach signal, then you're set.
But you still need a way to run your factory tach. You could go the way factory 2H motors work which is basically a pickup module on the flywheel. Although I'm not sure what triggers it, Maybe a magnet on the flywheel might work. Or you could try adapting something like this to make your system work.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR-60000&autoview=sku

The crank trigger works off the same principle i used in my system.
I like to think outside the box

 

[cruiser_guy]

The factory '60 series diesels with A/C have a different A/C amplifier and they are not easy to find nor are they cheap! They do however share the SAME plug and mount the same way on the evaporator.
Does your bellhousing have a sensor bolted into it? If so you could possibly use the 2H or 3B factory tach found in Canadian trucks. It utilizes a "Hall" sensor. If that sensor is bad or missing they are also a little pricey.
On my FJ45LV I'll be using a programmble tach from Isspro conected to the altenator and sensing pulses from the altenator. It has dip switches to set the RPM correctly.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Made some progress today, there are now two motors sitting on the shop floor. It is days like this that make you realize just how easy cruisers are to work on.
Very satisfying to take things out of the engine bay, ".....wont need this, wont need that, wont need this............."

 

[kevinmrowland]

AC: The 62 AC amp looks very promising, it works the opposite way of a 60 amp, instead of receiving an RPM signal from the coil, it SENDS a signal to the ECU to tell the motor to speed up. Therefore the AC operation is no longer dependent on engine speed. It should work.
The engine will no longer speed up when the AC clutch engages, but I do not think that should matter that much with a diesel.

I hope it does not come to having to source a diesel amp.


Test, what is missing from this picture?
The FSM calls it a No.2 Overflow Port Plug, is it as simple as it sounds, a plug? Any body got a part#? Or a suggested length?

 

[roscoFJ73]

The engine will no longer speed up when the AC clutch engages, but I do not think that should matter that much with a diesel.




Test, what is missing from this picture?
The FSM calls it a No.2 Overflow Port Plug, is it as simple as it sounds, a plug? Any body got a part#? Or a suggested length?

Are you using the vacuum fast idle for the aircon?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Are you using the vacuum fast idle for the aircon?

Don't have one.
Think I'll need it?
I have the VSV from the 2F, but no place to hook it to on the new motor.

 

[cruiser_guy]

You don't need to worry about increasing the idle speed on the diesel. The A/C in the 3B hardly affects idle at all.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Don't have one.
Think I'll need it?
I have the VSV from the 2F, but no place to hook it to on the new motor.

VSV?? Vacuum solenoid valve??. I plugged that green thingy into a t/piece off the vac pump for its vacuum. It used to be plugged into the manifold.
If you dont need it why bother

 

[kevinmrowland]

Yup, I am not going to worry about engine RPMs and their relationship to the AC pump. (i hope)


Made some more progress today, played around with the engine placement.
I bolted the transmission to the crossmember and moved the front around till things looked good.
My main concern is obviously having enough clearance for everything, but particularly getting the fan to line up nicely with the radiator.

By removing the PS cooling lines I found that I could lower the radiator an inch by just drilling new holes for the mounts (the top mounts actually already have two holes in the perfect spot) Lowering the rad, combined with tipping the front of the motor up a bit gives enough room between the fan blade tips and the lower rad outlet so than I can pass my hand through. Very promising.


The sideline concern then is obviously, what to do with the PS cooling line. I could probably move it down or back, remove the line altogether or plumb it into a little trany cooler.
How important do you guys think that short run of metal tubing that is almost entirely isolated from good air flow and right underneath the very hot lower rad tank is to cooling the PS fluid?
Would an aux trany cooler keep the PS fluid toooo cool? If such a thing can happen? I know when it gets cool it has a harder time moving, hence the winter time groaning.

*EDIT* Did some forum searching, it appears that the trany cooler as PS cooler mod is old news, I am definitely going to bypass the original metal lines and run a small radiator type aux. cooler. This will clean the PS system up nicely as well, I like it

 

[kevinmrowland]

The other interesting thing from today was what I found when I cut the 2F motor mounts off.

I cut the top of the passenger side mount, then got the cutting the back edge and as I finished the cut the mount fell off, ".....strange I thought: the mounts must be only welded on the two sides."
It wasn't till later that I went to grind the welds down that I realized that all three sides were supposed to be welded, but whoever put the weld on the front edge completely missed the target. The mount has been hanging on by two edges for the last 22 years and has subsequently cracked the small part of the frame it was welded to.
Glad I found that, I guess this makes the whole swap worthwhile, right?

 

[kevinmrowland]

The one unacceptable thing that I found today is the fact the the exhaust now dumps directly on the fuel and brake line frame terminations. I think I will cut them all back just in front of the transfer case, run soft lines under the transmission hump and up to the firewall for the fuel filter and a long stainless brake line for the rear brakes. For the front brake I think I will run a stainless line from the frame to the axle on the drivers side, instead of on the passenger side.
I do not want the exhaust anywhere near that close to those fluid lines.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Its moving along nicely
The RHD 75 series have all lines from the MC right next to the exhaust
The brake lines have a shield and the rubber fuel line coming from the transmission hump has another larger hose over the top and wrapped in a fireproof cloth.

I can wrap my hand around the exhaust pipe after its been idling a while

The tranny cooler for the PS might be over kill. Maybe some coiled tube would do it and then you could dispense with it running under the radiator all together.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks Rosco, and thanks for the pic.
I will snap a pic of my exhaust tomorrow, picture yours, but then picture a large 1HDT turbo housing and exhaust flange pointing right at those lines. It gets tight quick.

Good idea with the coiled tubing, maybe I got carried away with the cooler, but it would still be very clean that way.

 

[CaliCruiser]

Man this is awesome! Keep up the good work Kevin.

Dylan

 

[Gus]

Nice work Kevin, that rig has really come a long way over the years.