Your rig is bad ass. I have the SPC UCAs and my alignment is now spot on. The 200 is an awesome rig, especially with new suspension.
My 2014 LC (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter THEROK
- Start date
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sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Did they explain to you how they got the rear alignment specs to change? I don't really see how they can get the camber or to the toe to change on the rear on a setup that has no adjustment.
- Thread starter
- #83
Commuted with it today. It's a luxo-tank-beast! I love how supple it is without the OEM roll. Soaks up everything. Top all that off with unprecedented Toyota durability/reliability. End of day along the buyer sat front, it kicks my Range Rover Sport's arse even with a significant torque and hp advantage, same weight @ 5900lbs. The Tata make/model did look pretty, though, in its own light. I enjoy both for what they represent.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLcbWkGsbWY
Slee: I'll ask the shop. Curious myself. Maybe I got lucky since we did switch out the springs. Good question. Maybe he's f'ing with me. Don't really care at this point. It's sorted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLcbWkGsbWY
Slee: I'll ask the shop. Curious myself. Maybe I got lucky since we did switch out the springs. Good question. Maybe he's f'ing with me. Don't really care at this point. It's sorted.
- Thread starter
- #84
I just talked to the owner that worked on my rig. I'm just the messenger, but by virtue of making some adjustments up front coupled with the fact that I also swapped out for shorter, softer springs, we were able to get the results as you see above. There is no rear adjustment (as you pointed out) outside of the thrust line, and my LC very well could have gotten less desirable results. Alas, it ended up being the way it is.
The measurements are accurate.
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- Thread starter
- #85
Update
Finally had a chance to lower windows and drive through potholed dt streets. Rear noise is still there (metal on metal snappy noise and loud at times). Front ICON shocks make this odd pfffft noise over abrupt bumps and of course when you call them they can't diagnose it over the phone.
Nose to grindstone... stay tuned!
Finally had a chance to lower windows and drive through potholed dt streets. Rear noise is still there (metal on metal snappy noise and loud at times). Front ICON shocks make this odd pfffft noise over abrupt bumps and of course when you call them they can't diagnose it over the phone.
Nose to grindstone... stay tuned!
Keep the windows up and the radio on.
LOL...that's usually my first answer.
- Thread starter
- #89
Update:
Noise reduced in rear, but still makes noise over certain type of bumps at speed. Clack!
Decided to dump the OME 61029 shocks and go for the 57725 piggy-back ICON shocks.
w/ V1 mounted on the dash and radar cruise set to 75mph, headed down the i-5 to visit with Metaltech4x4 next week to get all new ICON parts installed. We'll see what happens.
Noise reduced in rear, but still makes noise over certain type of bumps at speed. Clack!
Decided to dump the OME 61029 shocks and go for the 57725 piggy-back ICON shocks.
w/ V1 mounted on the dash and radar cruise set to 75mph, headed down the i-5 to visit with Metaltech4x4 next week to get all new ICON parts installed. We'll see what happens.
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Give me a jingle when you get down to MetalTech. LT and Mark have done my Total Chaos upper control arms, Radflo front and rear shocks and custom sliders. LT has spent plenty of time under my 200.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I would be interested to see if that fixes your problem. As we discussed on the phone, the OME should not make noise. I would expect some noises from a remote reservoir shock more than a regular twin tube shock. You are now going from a bushing, bushing mounted shock to one with spherical bearings on the bottom. The changes of those starting to make noise is a lot greater than the bushings.
- Thread starter
- #92
pdx, PM me your number and I'll reply with mine. Would love to talk shop with you at the shop on 1/25.
christo, same here! As we had discussed via this thread and in our phone conversation, the real challenge is finding the right help who knows the 200. Metaltech comes recommended by ih8 and icon. They were kind enough to accept a Saturday appt which I appreciate. The thing that confuses me about OMEs is that if the factory shock doesn't require extra washers for added pre-load, then why does the OME sometimes require this?
Hoping for the best.
christo, same here! As we had discussed via this thread and in our phone conversation, the real challenge is finding the right help who knows the 200. Metaltech comes recommended by ih8 and icon. They were kind enough to accept a Saturday appt which I appreciate. The thing that confuses me about OMEs is that if the factory shock doesn't require extra washers for added pre-load, then why does the OME sometimes require this?
Hoping for the best.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I don't believe it is 200 specific. You just need a shop that knows Toyota's and OME.
They should be able to take care off you. The extra washer is really not a big deal and I would not stress about that. Any installer of shocks should know what the bushings need to be preloaded to and what it looks/feels like when installed.
We discussed what I believe is the problem, but not sure if you ever go that conveyed to the installer. Either they have two index washers on both sides of the frame mounting hole and the lips are touching each other, but the shock is not secure, or they have the lip not centered in the hole.
- Thread starter
- #94
I think it is 200 specific. Like the kdss procedure. It is unique to the 200. Simple but if you don't know to ask for it can necessitate a trip to Toyota.
Metaltech info is on Google. Pls feel free to call them with your input! I ain't stopping anyone.
PS instructions with visuals would be a huge help
Sent from my Nexus 7
Metaltech info is on Google. Pls feel free to call them with your input! I ain't stopping anyone.
PS instructions with visuals would be a huge help
Sent from my Nexus 7
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Most if not all Toyota rear shocks mount the same way on the top. There is not much unique to a 200 in that respect.
See step 6 in these instructions. That is the same as the 200
http://sleeoffroad.com/installation/ome_100_suspension_v1.2.pdf
If the lips on the washers are too long, they will bottom out against each before they clamp down.
THEROK, I would like to point out to you that you are receiving information (and arguing a little about it) from someone (Christo Slee) who likely has more firsthand experience with LC wagon suspensions (80, 100, and 200 series) than anyone else in the US. I'd put reasonably significant weight on what he tells you ....
Just saying
Just saying
- Thread starter
- #97
i've told him and this forum that i'd love to clone a bunch of slees and have them setup shop local to me. i never argued or questioned their body of work in toyota land. i'll listen to who i choose to listen to. christo is one of them. ideally, i'd much prefer for him to do stuff to my car rather than hear him talk all day. i'm sure the feeling is mutual.
reality is CO is a 20 hour drive away from me. i don't wrench, so need to pay others to do it for me. the people who have lifted 200s are few and far between even on this forum. im not sure i can id one that is lifted the same exact way. all the tips and advice are being done via computer so i'm working with what's been given to me and i'm only sharing it in hopes some else learns from my experience. big pet peeve of mine are new threads asking for help and they don't follow-up with some sort of conclusion to tie up the loose end. that's not my style. i can definitely write-up a startup guide for a future 200 owner with my particular use case.
and ultimately, i am a customer. i bought stuff from slee. i am buying stuff from metaltech. i bought stuff from icon and regrettably gave business to outlaw offroad (still haven't responded to why they sent me the wrong springs and tires).
all i care about is the result of my 200 - not what's normal or typical 4someone else. good news for me is that i'm making progress and making a few good forum friends along the way.
thanks for your thoughts.
i'm sure the feeling is mutual.reality is CO is a 20 hour drive away from me. i don't wrench, so need to pay others to do it for me. the people who have lifted 200s are few and far between even on this forum. im not sure i can id one that is lifted the same exact way. all the tips and advice are being done via computer so i'm working with what's been given to me and i'm only sharing it in hopes some else learns from my experience. big pet peeve of mine are new threads asking for help and they don't follow-up with some sort of conclusion to tie up the loose end. that's not my style. i can definitely write-up a startup guide for a future 200 owner with my particular use case.
and ultimately, i am a customer. i bought stuff from slee. i am buying stuff from metaltech. i bought stuff from icon and regrettably gave business to outlaw offroad (still haven't responded to why they sent me the wrong springs and tires).
all i care about is the result of my 200 - not what's normal or typical 4someone else. good news for me is that i'm making progress and making a few good forum friends along the way.
thanks for your thoughts.
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- Thread starter
- #99
One day I'd love to make my 200 look like this 80 on 38s.
http://youtu.be/pBB8VhQnBy0
http://youtu.be/pBB8VhQnBy0
Put everything oem back on and see if you get the noise. Then add rear shocks. Test again, add rear coils test for noise. I usually switch everything to oem and test upgrades one step at a time to find faults. Noises drive me insane and I can understand your frustration. I had a creaking noise-chirp that drove me insane. After serious taking apart everything it was a rusted bolt that became loose on the armored grill that protects my radiator. Every bump the grill would slide metal on metal and make a small cricket noise. Drove me insane.
