Very cool, mine was about 150 units later.
I wonder how many they were making per day?
My 1976 FJ40 "Kit Car"
- Thread starter FJSeattle
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Very cool, mine was about 150 units later.
I wonder how many they were making per day?
See if cummins will sell you a replacement crank pulley for the one you have in hand. Take them to a machine shop and have them welded together to be perfectly centric. Done.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Mine was 11,000 units earlier, 6 mos before. If my rough calcs are right, that's about 90 per day.
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holy freakin epic build!!! this would be some of the best building i have seen by far. attention to detail is amazing! everything looks great. keep it up man 
- Thread starter
- #125
Thanks everyone for the kind words. Progress is slow, never done this type of stuff before, so learning curve is quite steep. Fabrication is fun though. Draw it up, weld it up.
Found some tension rods at Lowes that work pretty well.
Here it is all finished up.
Found some tension rods at Lowes that work pretty well.
Here it is all finished up.
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If I win the Mega Millions I will do a build similar to this one.
Keep up the awesome work! Thanks again for the windshield frame, I got it back from the blasters today.
Put some hard lines in the garage.
Since you are in the Seattle area you deal with a lot of rain, which puts a lot of moisture into the air. Can I make some suggestions for your air lines?
I don't think you want moisture going into your air tools. After years working in a similar rainy climate, and with nail guns and finish wood, I have come across an inexpensive way to help eliminate a lot of the water in your compressed air.
From your compressor run the air line vertically almost to the ceiling before going to the horizontal line, almost like you show in your pic. A few inches clearance is needed between the ceiling and the horizontal line. Where you make your drops to your quick connects a short vertical, maybe about six inches, going up towards the ceiling before dropping down to the quick connects needs to be used. Since water is heavier this will keep a lot of the moisture from flowing up and then dropping down, and eventually into your air tools.
Then, at the bottom of your drop, where you tee out horizontally for the quick connect, add an additional six inches or so of vertical line, with a ball valve, below the tee. This will also collect moisture, and the ball valve will allow for quick and easy occasional draining of collected moisture.
If this doesn't keep enough moisture out you can add another smaller air tank to help collect moisture. The air line from the compressor goes up to the ceiling, then turns back down to the second air tank on the floor. Then the air line goes back up to the ceiling and to your horizontal line.
This will not ever replace an air dryer, but for the home workshop it is way more affordable.
Don
Fitment of all that aluminum looks great, no problems? I have the same stuff but it's all the way on the west coast becoming a roller chassis at the moment.
- Thread starter
- #131
It all bolts up good, but getting it all aligned correctly will take some patience and a dremel.
Ordered my Racepak gauge, batteries, JW 8700 headlights, and a bunch of other odds and ends. I am still a ways off, but I need most of it for fitment purposes.
I should lay all the parts out on the garage floor and take a pic. I have so much to install its nuts...
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Will you have to add more holes in the firewall for wiring, heater hoses, and cables?
- Thread starter
- #133
Oh yeah, tons more. But I figure I can do the major ones now with rough fitment (A/C hoses, etc.) and do final punch throughs after paint.
Ordered all my JW speaker LED turn signals, brake lights today. No halogens on this rig!
Post some links of what you are using for gauges, lights and turn signals. I'm curious with what you are using. I went with Autometer dual gauges and a plate from trailcandy.
- Thread starter
- #135
I am kicking back, feet up, beer on. Time for a quick digest.
So I started off the day tackling my radiator & fan. I have an aluminum radiator that fits the stock radiator brace. I ordered Summits Fan and shroud kit that roughly fit my new radiator. Had to trim the shroud a tad, and fabricate some braces. Fun times.
Then I went to mount it and I forgot to measure depth. Doh. Gonna try a thinner fan or no shroud first.
Santa Claus came today, he brought my Aqualu hatch and extra gas fill.
So I then moved onto mounting the pedals, first taking out the steering column. Finally something that fits.
Gratuitous H55F shot.
Using a Stanadyne Fuel Manager 100 final filter, with a small pre-filter..
For a lift pump, I am using a Napa for ease of replacement. Its not Bio diesel rated, but I figure it will do the job and I bought an extra to throw into the cab for emergencies (and a third for the AUX tank).
Before the lift pump I am putting a nice washable filter from mercedessource.com
AL Porn
Bead blasted gas tank cover and breather lines all plumbed (diesel rated, Poly tank underneath, btbprod.com)
Back of the truck has become a work bench
My $100 harbor freight media blaster.
In case anyone is wondering, here are the Aqualu door hinges. Took me a couple days scratching my head wondering how the doors would bolt up, as the stock male hinge does not even come close to fitting.
parts and parts
My bumper
Fluid lines ready to go on
Aqualu hardware kits, ready to be bin-nized
Stock/replacmenet parts ready to go on
After taking a brief inventory of the harness, I'm kinda scared.
So I started off the day tackling my radiator & fan. I have an aluminum radiator that fits the stock radiator brace. I ordered Summits Fan and shroud kit that roughly fit my new radiator. Had to trim the shroud a tad, and fabricate some braces. Fun times.
Then I went to mount it and I forgot to measure depth. Doh. Gonna try a thinner fan or no shroud first.
Santa Claus came today, he brought my Aqualu hatch and extra gas fill.
So I then moved onto mounting the pedals, first taking out the steering column. Finally something that fits.
Gratuitous H55F shot.
Using a Stanadyne Fuel Manager 100 final filter, with a small pre-filter..
For a lift pump, I am using a Napa for ease of replacement. Its not Bio diesel rated, but I figure it will do the job and I bought an extra to throw into the cab for emergencies (and a third for the AUX tank).
Before the lift pump I am putting a nice washable filter from mercedessource.com
AL Porn
Bead blasted gas tank cover and breather lines all plumbed (diesel rated, Poly tank underneath, btbprod.com)
Back of the truck has become a work bench
My $100 harbor freight media blaster.
In case anyone is wondering, here are the Aqualu door hinges. Took me a couple days scratching my head wondering how the doors would bolt up, as the stock male hinge does not even come close to fitting.
parts and parts
My bumper
Fluid lines ready to go on
Aqualu hardware kits, ready to be bin-nized
Stock/replacmenet parts ready to go on
After taking a brief inventory of the harness, I'm kinda scared.
- Thread starter
- #136
As for a dash, I am doing a Racepak street model, 250-DS-UDXSR.
It has everything you need to wire up the aftermarket harness.
"The Street Dash has all the amenities needed on a street-driven vehicle. Through a combination of your existing sensors and those included in the kit, this dash will provide you with the ability to display engine RPM, speedometer, odometer, water and oil temperature, oil pressure, battery voltage, and fuel level. It has internal indicator lights for such items as low oil pressure, high water temperature, turn signals, high beam, and parking brake. Additional functions can be displayed with the purchase of the appropriate V-Net sensor and module combination. A relay for an electric fan controller, and a minimum/maximum recall function, are included in the Street Dash kit."
I ordered an EGT v-net gauge in addition, and an electric pulse generator speedo cable doohicky from btb.
For soft brake lines, I am using -4AN summit high pressure braided hose and fittings (to 10mm fittings). I figure I can use it for a lot of tasks, so I ordered a few extra fittings and 20ft of length.
I realized I have to replace the passenger lower steel door rim. After bead blasting it was shredded. I went with CCOT's product.
I am going to do my battery setup (trays), so I figured I would connect it up right, (even though I will have to disconnect), so I bought a Blue Sea Automatic relay charger for the Optima Blue and Red tops that I ordered.
Bought an Eastwood metal shrinker to learn how to fix the side panels;
I am using a Lokar for the go pedal. The stock pedal doesn't really work
For lights, I am using all JW speaker.
Side markers (red/amber both sides), model 150
Turn signals are model 412 to be flush mounted on front fenders
Brake/turn/reverse is model 265, to be mounted on the custom rear bumper that I need to build.
And of course 8700's for the lights. Here are some pics from another members build.
It has everything you need to wire up the aftermarket harness.
"The Street Dash has all the amenities needed on a street-driven vehicle. Through a combination of your existing sensors and those included in the kit, this dash will provide you with the ability to display engine RPM, speedometer, odometer, water and oil temperature, oil pressure, battery voltage, and fuel level. It has internal indicator lights for such items as low oil pressure, high water temperature, turn signals, high beam, and parking brake. Additional functions can be displayed with the purchase of the appropriate V-Net sensor and module combination. A relay for an electric fan controller, and a minimum/maximum recall function, are included in the Street Dash kit."
I ordered an EGT v-net gauge in addition, and an electric pulse generator speedo cable doohicky from btb.
For soft brake lines, I am using -4AN summit high pressure braided hose and fittings (to 10mm fittings). I figure I can use it for a lot of tasks, so I ordered a few extra fittings and 20ft of length.
I realized I have to replace the passenger lower steel door rim. After bead blasting it was shredded. I went with CCOT's product.
I am going to do my battery setup (trays), so I figured I would connect it up right, (even though I will have to disconnect), so I bought a Blue Sea Automatic relay charger for the Optima Blue and Red tops that I ordered.
Bought an Eastwood metal shrinker to learn how to fix the side panels;
I am using a Lokar for the go pedal. The stock pedal doesn't really work
For lights, I am using all JW speaker.
Side markers (red/amber both sides), model 150
Turn signals are model 412 to be flush mounted on front fenders
Brake/turn/reverse is model 265, to be mounted on the custom rear bumper that I need to build.
And of course 8700's for the lights. Here are some pics from another members build.
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Very nice selection! I'm not sure I understand about the aqualu door hinges. So I have to use that metal bracket you posted? I was hoping to get a set of the quick change hinges that a fellow mudder makes. Also did you have aqualu weld your cowl to your 3/4 tub or did you leave it as bolt together?
- Thread starter
- #138
The Aqualu metal hinge bracket goes into the door crease and becomes the hinge for the door.
I ordered stainless hinges from SOR to use on my doors, and quickly realized that one side of the door hinge (from the body) I won't need (as its solid AL).
Does anybody know where to get M8x1.0mm (fine thread) x40mm flange bolts? I have only found 1.25 thread versions. It is for a Sanden type K rear door:
http://www.klimakit.com/sanden-508-horizontal-ac-compressor-head/
I found this kit, but only after buying the head from a different company. (I am switching from a vertical to a horizontal vacuum/discharge head, for clearance)
Here is the aqualu hatch thrown up for viewing pleasure.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
You might try your local bolt shop that all the car repair and construction cos use. I had a heck of a time trying to find online (see Baller Bolts warning thread) when they were here locally all along.
http://www.seattlenutandbolt.com/products.html
http://www.perinedanforth.com/products.htm
http://www.tacomascrew.com/
