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- #141
No M8 fine thread flange bolts
My 1976 FJ40 "Kit Car"
- Thread starter FJSeattle
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No M8 fine thread flange bolts
These aren't flanged but they are M8 x 1.0 x 40 mm
http://www.mrmetric.com/metric-fasteners/m8-x-1-0-metrix-hex-10-9/
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- #143
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- #144
So I switched up fans and now I have good clearance. Went with the thinnest fan I could find on the market: Spal Low Profile 16" fan (2" total depth)
Moved onto the air conditioning condenser, fits great with my AL radiator and stock brace and some cutting (the grinding wheel is the most used tool in the shop right now)
My Father-in-law is coming up Saturday to help me rough mount all the body panels, make all the holes, plumb fuel/brake/clutch lines. Having Fun! (not my wife though)
Moved onto the air conditioning condenser, fits great with my AL radiator and stock brace and some cutting (the grinding wheel is the most used tool in the shop right now)
My Father-in-law is coming up Saturday to help me rough mount all the body panels, make all the holes, plumb fuel/brake/clutch lines. Having Fun! (not my wife though)
normally for brake lines you use a -3 an. also, most alu an fittings are not recommended for high pressure like brakes and high pressure line on power steering. you can use JIC fittings or just use pre made -3 lines for the brakes.
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- #146
Good to know thanks. I ordered a power steering kit from Summit and without thinking just started shopping for AN fittings without realizing they are different for pressures realized.
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose_ends/powerflex.shtml
Does the aqualu bib come with the provisions to bolt the hood catch latch?
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- #148
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- #149
To make brake lines a simple affair, I am going to use pre made soft lines from Russell Performance/Earls utilizing -3AN and -3 AN to 10x1.0 fittings. They make a cool -3an male tee fitting for each axle, and then female/male inverted flare adapters to plug into each fitting/caliper.
Since I did the rear brake swap, the calipers are out of an old Pontiac and have a 10x1.5 thread, so the rears get a banjo but otherwise it should be all plug and play (minus making the hard lines along the firewall and frame rail)
Pretty pumped about integrating the Racepak gauge. Nothing out there from a digital retrofit product tickled my fancy, this seems like a good fit (all programmable).
Adding a EGT gauge or pressure whatever is simple as installing and plugging into the back of the unit (pig tailed)
JW Speaker headlights came in (still waiting for turn signals/markers to come in):
Lots of other parts, this is just the tip of the iceberg. I am definitely down the rabbit hole right now. Should be able to start it up this week!
BTW, if anyone who is utilizing a Sanden 508 compressor and wants to switch the head out to a K type (horizontal exit), this is what you need:
http://www.klimakit.com/sanden-508-horizontal-ac-compressor-head/
Finding the right size 10x1.0 flange bolts is nearly impossible, so its worth buying.
The new SPAL fan is awesome, and super skinny
Since I did the rear brake swap, the calipers are out of an old Pontiac and have a 10x1.5 thread, so the rears get a banjo but otherwise it should be all plug and play (minus making the hard lines along the firewall and frame rail)
Pretty pumped about integrating the Racepak gauge. Nothing out there from a digital retrofit product tickled my fancy, this seems like a good fit (all programmable).
Adding a EGT gauge or pressure whatever is simple as installing and plugging into the back of the unit (pig tailed)
JW Speaker headlights came in (still waiting for turn signals/markers to come in):
Lots of other parts, this is just the tip of the iceberg. I am definitely down the rabbit hole right now. Should be able to start it up this week!
BTW, if anyone who is utilizing a Sanden 508 compressor and wants to switch the head out to a K type (horizontal exit), this is what you need:
http://www.klimakit.com/sanden-508-horizontal-ac-compressor-head/
Finding the right size 10x1.0 flange bolts is nearly impossible, so its worth buying.
The new SPAL fan is awesome, and super skinny
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Can I get a pic of the inside of the bib? Later model stock bibs had a hood catch that bolts on the inside driver's side of the bib. Did you see the new Dakota gauge cluster? Racepak is going to look fantastic.
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- #151
Mine was spec'd with hood latches, which the female ends come from AQ but not the latches.
The dakota gauge cluster is meh. I am just not a big fan of retrofitting the original gauges...
yea i did the -3AN fittings also. all the braided lines are cheap too which makes it nice.
sorry for the old MS.
sorry for the old MS.
- Thread starter
- #153
yea i did the -3AN fittings also. all the braided lines are cheap too which makes it nice.
sorry for the old MS.
Nice setup!
Can you run Braided lines the entire length? Do I even need to do hard lines?
i have been doing a lot of research on that and it seems the answer is yes and no
some say they will swell to much when braking and that you should have as much hard line as possible. and i would normally agree if i was building a car or a track car but with a fj with large tires i couldn't tell the difference (well actually had all flex lines on a toyota truck) I am going to run all flex lines as it will also allow me to carry a few spares just encase. also makes changing axles or doing axle work so much easier as you wont have to take the lines off if you want to pull the third.
i have been doing a lot of research on that and it seems the answer is yes and no
Based on some hot rodder's I've talked to, flex lines can leak over time, since the inner liner will eventually break down. This can often be hard to tell since visually the outer mesh will not really indicate issues until it starts dripping. In the case of brake lines, you may not see it for sometime since it may only drip when applying pressure to the brakes. Although flex lines tend to be rated for 50-100k miles, the general consensus is still to have hard lines whenever possible. As always YMMV.
- Thread starter
- #156
Finished up the power steering bracket, and door shell lowers.
Welding is not my sport
Put the roof on for giggles. made my wife get off the couch and help me hoist it up
Gonna need to do some adjustments to the front :-/
Welding is not my sport
Put the roof on for giggles. made my wife get off the couch and help me hoist it up
Gonna need to do some adjustments to the front :-/
That is pretty. Nice work.
Your fender aprons need to come forward, there should be a gap between them and your cowl, and than your hood should be flush.
Might have to adjust your bib hinge, you should have a gap between your fender skirts and the cowl like this photo which use all aqualu body panels also.
http://www.icon4x4.com/sites/icon4x4.com/files/imagecache/Preview/gallery/IMG_3469.jpg
http://www.icon4x4.com/sites/icon4x4.com/files/imagecache/Preview/gallery/IMG_3469.jpg