My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….

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I have a bunch of steel scrap lying around. Trimmed a piece off and mounted the Sniper coil. @jhsmith ( thank you J) has provided a bunch of guidance to me and he used these isolation mounts.. I had a bunch left over from the more modern era of HD motorcycle restorations and they were too large so Amazon had these as he suggested in 1 day.

Looking to install the CDI box but space in the engine compartment is at a premium so still thinking that one. Painting the rear door is done, I’ll polish it in a few days but now ponder how to install the window and new weather seal. String or teflon spoons? I have never done this part before,

Anyone feel free to offer any suggestions


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I now know the real purpose for the speedo thingy, as it’s come to be known as, and I no longer have the EGR equipment. I have ordered the new speedometer cable from Cruiser Corp that is 76” long and now will go from the dash cluster Speedo fitting and down to the transfer case in one simple pass. Once removed, the space is available for the Holley Sniper EFI ignition box to be mounted into this space. Apparently these were only in use from 1974-1977 as an “maintenance Interval’ device to trigger the EGR maintenance requirements.

Does someone know if these wired connections on the device need to be connected somewhere or can they just be removed completely?

I did wonder if there was a coupler to attach these tow cable ends together but I guess the better way is the new longer cable
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Here’s is how far I have gotten… pulled the “speedometer thing” and measured the space for the Sniper Ignition box…perfect
@pb4ugo had said….there is an odometer inside that interval timer. . . And, there is

Drilled into the firewall and placed 4 riv-nuts accordingly. That went well and I can do the thinner smaller riv-nuts without my arms hurting. The larger ones I need to place one handle against my chest and pull the other side with both hands. Washed down the firewall area and mounted the ignition box, plugged the harness into the box to get a clue where to start running these cables to.

Holley does make it relatively simple..essentially 4 wires and 2 of them are the battery terminals, 1 is the electric fuel pump and the last one is the constant key-on 12v source which is fed by a relay installed when I placed the EFI in place.

Next is to pull the Performance D.U.I. Distributor and install the Sniper Hyperspark distributor which has been modified to match the Toyota 2F cam gear at Mosley. As purchased from them, everything is in the box, spacers, gasket, hold-down and setup cap. Rob at Mosley also has sent me an install guide he had written as well as a fuel map for the EFi.

Sounds exciting


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I put my CDI box in the glovebox, using the tabs for the factory speaker mount - no heat issues, and kept the engine bay a little more "stock" looking. Pilfering the spot where the maintenance-interval-doodad is does look like decent spot as well, too.

Nice progress - on the home stretch!
 
Thank you @zerotreedelta. Another of my many MUD friends @jhsmith did suggest the glove box And it was his idea to use the isolation mounts with added grounds. I also like the location @Blue77FJ40 used along the out side of the glove box between the glove box frame and above the passenger kick vent. The firewall grommet is also right there for easy access.

When I read the Holley manual section on mounting it states: “It is not recommended to mount the unit in an enclosed area, such as the glove box.”

I really don’t believe that any part of an FJ40 is seriously “enclosed”. Even when my ‘74 was brand new, it was hardly tight. I’ll keep everyone posted but if anyone has a suggestion for something…PLEASE feel free to post it
 
Lightly productive weekend with the HyperSpark but I am starting g to get a little confused on the wiring connections. With the Sniper, the key-on 12v power I have running thru a relay from the switch and pos+ battery terminal. I have two connections I am just not sure of… it is the red and white wires coming from the CDI box

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Here is the diagram from the instruction guide. Can I assume I can use the same output on the relay for the pink wire on the EFI unit? Every thing else is plug connectors so if it fits, it’s done..

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On mobile, but I believe I shared the switched 12v for the red wire like you mention. I also recall thinking that Holley could've been more consistent on their wiring colors across products (make them both pink) 😆

I think the white is then the timing feed into the Sniper, but I don't recall which pin.
 
@zerotreedelta …thank you for the push in a better direction… I rereading the manual for both EFI and Hyperspark over and over to see if I can move forward with a tad more conviction before turning the key and watching the big orange sparks fly…💥

Found this:

 
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Oh? I Love that…of course when you have some free time , you may need to spoon feed those instructions to me

I tossed in anti-theft like a gps tracker. I was goi g figure a way to switch the 12v key on relay but if there is another way, I would love doing it
 
Sniper EFI / Hyperspark setup
the sniper EFI and HyperSpark combo has been very rewarding for me especially coming from my only expertise with 1940-50-60 Linkert carbs .Not familiar, they were amazingly simple fuel feeds for old motorcycles and rebuilding and tuning them an easier than putting air in a tire.

While I should leave well enough alone…here are a few minimal things I question. The EFI requires you to set engine displacement and WOT for the timing controls. Does this effect the fuel squirt when driving between speeds or shifts?

Reason being, on occasion..it get a quick blip on the air/fuel ratio display…runs usually 13.5-14 and for a split second, goes yellow or red with an accompanying hesitation. Not all of the time. Occasional random events especially during a shift 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd and lower engine speeds. If I was never able to correct this, it not really important…this thing runs exceedingly well….starts instantly . Its just that given the incredible options for tuning..I feel it is a concept that I am incapable of figuring out on my own and I know there are mud guys here that are way more expert at this..

YouTube is loaded with “how-to” but I lack the basic understanding of where these videos go even to just get started.

Current setting: displacement set at 258 cu.in.
Static timing 7*
Wide Open Throttle 30*

As always…thank you in advance
 
Some of that might eventually "come out in the wash" with the self learning, but I **think** the more advanced tuning settings are only twiddled via the Windows tuning software. (You don't have to be connected to the 40 though, you can just export/import via the SD card). I don't recall the exact names offhand, but there's settings for basically the "acceleration pump" in carb land, including temperature compensation factors (both coolant and air).

I occasionally still get that stumble when it's cold out, but I haven't worked on tuning it out as mine gets parked once the snow flies, so it doesn't get much cold-weather driving, realistically.

The other helpful thing for tuning is enabling the logging via the little touchscreen, and then you can also view those files in the desktop/laptop tuning software, and it can shed light on why it's doing the stumble.
 
Thank you @zerotreedelta …this is quite helpful. I do have the Holley data cable/usb for a laptop but any laptop here is at least 10 yrs old using windows 7. Each time I tried to add the Holley software, that re-distributable Microsoft add-on stalls it all out and eventually locks up. Re-boot, the Holley icon is there but it won’t run…I should check if it is available for the iPad. I have a USB-C / USB adapter for iPad but I don’t think its an iPad software option

If not, I will do as you say using the ssd card and see what is happening during those events using the datalog . Since going into a deep rabbit hole on my 40 this summer, (and it is in exceptional condition) I bought the dual seal parking brake housing from Valley Hybrids, a steering knuckle rebuild set, cone and wheel bearings, an $$T toyota centering tool and new Toyota OEM window $eal$…I used to think Harley parts were expensive….hahaha.

there is very little left to do on the FJ40… in fact, I am no longer even considering using it this winter after ANY snowfall and waiting until a few spring rains wash away salt and brine from the road surface. I was going to add lockers for snow… no need now. My six year experience in 1974 living in Vermont showed me how corrosive that salt really is on older vehicles. Back in the 70’s nearly every 5 year old car or truck had rusted out doors and quarters.

Thanks for the information
 
I don’t think the Holley software for the sniper works on an Apple device. Or maybe it is just my dumb ass can’t figure it out 🤷🤦‍♂️
 
@mrboatman …. That what I was thinking …maybe my dumb ass can’t figure it out…

On the other hand, I believe you’re right…it is not Apple functional. Too bad because there is an app for EVERYTHING else
 
@zerotreedelta …thank you… a generous offer for certain. Greatly appreciated 🙏
 
Decided to check online incase….. surprise surprise…but, you’ve got to buy this other thing too


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