Most Common 100 Issues/Failures? (1 Viewer)

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It's a big expenditure for sure. But how many guys have put $3k into their truck for armor, sliders, bumpers, stereos? It really depends more on the type of use the truck sees, the daily driver that carries an occasional client or two would benefit from it and a rock crawling assault vehicle could spend money in better items.

I think $3k for "maintenance" for a vehicle is a lot, reagardless of age, but if you've got a gem of a ride $3k doesn't seem like much over another 5-10 years. You can spend $3,000 a year in a Range Rover, Merc, Audi, BMW.
 
Like what hoser said, 3k for a 15k car (or closer to maybe 13.5 with a busted suspension on the market) is 20% of the value of the car. If youre betting thats the only thing thats gonna go wrong then thats not that bad. HOWEVER, as far as Ive read, when you replace the systems they seem to not last nearly as long as when they come from the factory.

And it doesnt make sense to compare this to gas prices as youre going to pay them ahc, OME or stock LC. If youre going to leave it stock height just switch to a stock LC suspension for what, $700? and save 2.3k.

While it does make sense to stretch the cost out over the life of the component to evaluate cost vs reward.... Youre not going to drive a client around in a car with 300k miles most likely. I mean 25 dollars a month for 10 years why not just go 125$ a month for 10 years for an lx with 90-100k? Or more realistically 300/mo for 5 years. Certainly that makes more sense than dropping 3k on ahc...
Thats more than a transmission...
 
No hijacking attempts here but let's get this back on point...

Like what hoser said, 3k for a 15k car (or closer to maybe 13.5 with a busted suspension on the market) is 20% of the value of the car. If youre betting thats the only thing thats gonna go wrong then thats not that bad.

Exactly, we all agree on that. $3k is expensive regardless of the vehicle price, (who's got that kinda money laying around with no purpose). The thread topic is identifying known flaws with Hundies. You may/may not want AHC but it's not my perception that the AHC is a known "issue/failure" on the Hundie just because it gives way after 150k miles. Nor did I understand the "it's not economical" discussion. It has more costs to maintenance, you saw my earlier post in this thread, than the standard suspension but they're pretty reasonable in the grand scheme.


I mean 25 dollars a month for 10 years why not just go 125$ a month for 10 years for an lx with 90-100k? Or more realistically 300/mo for 5 years. Certainly that makes more sense than dropping 3k on ahc... thats more than a transmission...

Say what, why not spend $300/ mnth for 5 years? Cuz that's significantly more expensive. We all agree $3,000 is expensive so why spend more. If you decide to not spend $3k and move to standard for the purpose of lower maintenance, that's a great strategy. A great benefit of AHC is that you can back if you wish.

And in staying on point to the thread topic, a $3,000 failure isn't that realistic in a single day and would likely be spread out over a year or two, well into the life of the truck. In practice, it takes a lot of the wind out of the "it's not economical" arguement. Maybe it's better to close with, AHC is a maintenance item, which I showed earlier isn't really that $$$ much over the life of the this truck, but can add up $$$ after a couple hundred thousand miles. So do trannys, engines, steering racks & columns, and a bunch of other parts which are being left out of this discussion of "known issues / failures".


"Keep it clean. Keep it fair. Now LET'S FIGHT!"
:bounce2::bounce:
 
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As a regular I would add the below to accasional recurring... but not common failures.

1. Transmissions in 2000 LCs. (I think the only year with issues, something about a bad flex plate or something on certain units in a production range.)
2. Navigation DVD Player... little motor fails (all years).
3. REar sub woofer blows the foam out (within 10 years)
4. Navigations screen failure (can be the biggest bucks of all if you cant source a used one)
 
Has 6 disc changer been mentioned in the stock radios?
 
The general consensus here on Mud is that if you wheel it hard (or sometimes if you drive down a dirt road) you will blow the front diff. it's only a matter of when.
There were a lot of front diff failures on paved roads in icy conditions, it's a matter of wheel spin and sudden traction combined to shock load the diff.

If you live in San Diego and stay on pavement you should be Okay.:grinpimp:

The APS sensor failure can be a show stopper, the truck goes into a "limp" mode. You have the pedal to the floor and go about 5MPH. If your more than a few miles from cell service this could be an issue. I have a feeling you could disconnect the battery (to re-set the error code) and work the throttle body a few times to correct this. When my APS failed I bench tested it. It failed at first but after I cycled it though it's range of motion a few times it passed. The APS is a rheostat, if the wiper gets dirty it won't read the correct voltage back to the ECU. A few rapid swipes might just clean it enough to get you home.
 
In what year did they stop with the cable backup? IIRC, my TB is electronic up until 3/4 stroke at which point the cable will take over an manually move the butterfly. On the 2000's you can manually move the butterfly via the cable with the engine off.
 
In what year did they stop with the cable backup? IIRC, my TB is electronic up until 3/4 stroke at which point the cable will take over an manually move the butterfly. On the 2000's you can manually move the butterfly via the cable with the engine off.
If the ECU cannot read the APS or TPS it doesn't matter that you have a manual connection to the TB, the ECU stops sending gas to the injectors. My truck is a 98, I believe that was the last year before the engine went to totally "fly by wire".
 
If the ECU cannot read the APS or TPS it doesn't matter that you have a manual connection to the TB, the ECU stops sending gas to the injectors. My truck is a 98, I believe that was the last year before the engine went to totally "fly by wire".

I don't think that's a correct statement. The fuel delivered is controlled by MAF and trimmed by O2 sensors. APS/TPS only changes throttle movement from pure mechanical linkage to an enhanced electronics. Most 'throttle by wire' systems are completely electronic. On my 2000, there is still cable linkage to the throttle body where the sensor detects the position and automates the butterfly. I know for certain that the pedal (via the cable linkage) will move the butterfly at the bottom of the pedal stroke and can open it quite a bit. My assumption is that this is to allow for mechanical redundancy in the case of the electronics failing on the trail.

On gasoline engines, TB does not control fuel flow. That only happens with diesel engines (which are sans throttle bodies). With gasoline, the driver regulates air (via APS/TPS) and the engine response with fuel (via MAF and O2) and spark (via crank/cam/TB).
 
I don't think that's a correct statement. The fuel delivered is controlled by MAF and trimmed by O2 sensors. APS/TPS only changes throttle movement from pure mechanical linkage to an enhanced electronics. Most 'throttle by wire' systems are completely electronic. On my 2000, there is still cable linkage to the throttle body where the sensor detects the position and automates the butterfly. I know for certain that the pedal (via the cable linkage) will move the butterfly at the bottom of the pedal stroke and can open it quite a bit. My assumption is that this is to allow for mechanical redundancy in the case of the electronics failing on the trail.

On gasoline engines, TB does not control fuel flow. That only happens with diesel engines (which are sans throttle bodies). With gasoline, the driver regulates air (via APS/TPS) and the engine response with fuel (via MAF and O2) and spark (via crank/cam/TB).
I have a 98 the FACT is when the APS fails you cannot go more than a few miles per hour, it matters not at all that you have a mechanical connection to the butterfly valve. This is my first hand experience.

My assumption is that the ECU stops the injectors from opening, for all I know it could be there are tiny men that pinch the fuel lines, whatever the case may be if the APS fails you ain't going any where very fast. :grinpimp:
 
Interesting. I know for certain that I can open the butterfly from the cable side without inserting my fingers into the TB. The pulley twists quite a ways then it becomes mechanical and starts to open. My assumption was that the first X degrees of rotation was for APPS detecting what the driver was doing while still preserving the mechanical cable as a failsafe. I'll have to play around with it next week when I get home. Interesting conversation.
 
I have a 98 the FACT is when the APS fails you cannot go more than a few miles per hour,

Once the error code sets in the ECU and it switches to "safe" mode then that's true. But usually if you pull to the side of the road turn the vehicle off and then restart it after a few minutes it will run as normal. Maybe for another 10,000 miles without failure.

Most have experienced this "intermittent" type of APPS failure. Others have had a complete failure where it won't work at all.
 
....... I have a feeling you could disconnect the battery (to re-set the error code) and work the throttle body a few times to correct this. When my APS failed I bench tested it. It failed at first but after I cycled it though it's range of motion a few times it passed. The APS is a rheostat, if the wiper gets dirty it won't read the correct voltage back to the ECU. A few rapid swipes might just clean it enough to get you home.

Once the error code sets in the ECU and it switches to "safe" mode then that's true. But usually if you pull to the side of the road turn the vehicle off and then restart it after a few minutes it will run as normal. Maybe for another 10,000 miles without failure.

Most have experienced this "intermittent" type of APPS failure. Others have had a complete failure where it won't work at all.

Yep.:grinpimp:
 
Hmm well I am so pwned then:frown:. I gotta 2000 that I just bought today.


As a regular I would add the below to accasional recurring... but not common failures.

1. Transmissions in 2000 LCs. (I think the only year with issues, something about a bad flex plate or something on certain units in a production range.)
2. Navigation DVD Player... little motor fails (all years).
3. REar sub woofer blows the foam out (within 10 years)
4. Navigations screen failure (can be the biggest bucks of all if you cant source a used one)
 
Don't forget the MFD (multi-function display) issues in the 04's. That's a $900 repair. I've heard it's happened on a few 03's as well.
 
Hmm well I am so pwned then:frown:. I gotta 2000 that I just bought today.

Hope you don't really feel that way my friend...remember on these forums, you are essentially looking at a very very vocal minority...plenty of 2000 owners out there, mostly never heard from, that have been problem-free.

Once owned a 1990 4x4 Cherokee...after I bought it, all I heard was "oh, no, you bought a 90! The fuel system is terrible! This will fall off! That will break! Blah Blah Blah"

Bought it used at 99k, sold it at 200k, routine maintenance only, drove it like I had stolen it. Great, great little truck.

Owned an 02 F250 7.3L turbo diesel a few years back...all I heard was "oh dear, the tranny's gonna go; can't trust the 4R100; no, sir." Ran an Edge programmer, exhaust, drove it like I was mad at it, towed some...and guess what? Never touched the transmission.

Don't buy into the hype.

Don't let this into your head...enjoy your (wifey's) new ride...
 
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i have the thunk/clunk even though mine is a manual.

i have had a spiggot bearing replaced by Toyota and it sounds like it's on it's way out again.
So two spiggot bearings since March 2005, but i'll wait until it gets really loud like the first one before i replace it.
cheers
peter
 
i have had a spiggot bearing replaced by Toyota and it sounds like it's on it's way out again.
So two spiggot bearings since March 2005, but i'll wait until it gets really loud like the first one before i replace it.

spigot bearing - a small bearing in the centre of the flywheel end of the crankshaft, which carries the forward end of the clutch shaft. (Note: in US English is called a pilot bearing.)​

I have never heard of these going out. Is this a common failure in the "much more dependable" manual gearboxes ? Why do you think they are failing?
 

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