Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread

[Dirtgypsy]

Web site looks good for pipes. Just fyi my local NAPA has the same pipes you can buy individually. Not sure if you need as many as come in the kit and may save you some money if you buy as you need.

Clint

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Web site looks good for pipes. Just fyi my local NAPA has the same pipes you can buy individually. Not sure if you need as many as come in the kit and may save you some money if you buy as you need.

Clint

Good point, and on top of that, I'd save on shipping. I'll check there first. Thanks Clint!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Frame swap has officially started.

Chris and I went down to Santi's warehouse to pick my new FJ62 frame yesterday. Left Rochester at about 7:30, got down to the Bronx at about 1:30. Hung out with Santi, Siri and a couple of other guys for a while. Santi bought us lunch at the Bronx Alehouse which has an AMAZING selection of beer. I highly recommend that anyone in the Bronx makes a stop there. We ate, drank and were merry, definitely a good time. Got back on the road at about 6:00pm, got back to Rochester at 1:30am. Dropped the frame off in Nick's barn and called it a night.


Here is the plan, with questions...

Phase 1 - Frame Prep.

• Remove stock shock mounts
• Prep frame with twisted wire wheels and engine degreaser
• Box in rear section
• Weld on rear perches
• Weld on cross member mounts
• Slot engine mounts
• Paint inside of frame with Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating
• Prime outside of frame with Krylon Zinc Rich primer
• Paint outside of frame with 3M **maybe, still undecided**

Phase 2 - Disassembly

• Pull cruiser in ( with empty gas tank )
• Drain radiator, disconnect hoses
• Disconnect brake and fuel lines at bottom of firewall
• Disconnect clutch line
• Remove shifters
• Remove speedo cable
• Remove e-brake cable
• Remove ground cables
• Disconnect fuel lines at gas tank
• Remove core support
• Cut all body mount bolts off
• Jack up body with high lifts and 4x4's
• Deflate tires, roll out rolling chassis
• Remove drivetrain, keep it on hoist

Phase 3 - Reassembly

• Transfer axles to new frame
• Line up new front shock mounts
• Weld them on
• Install drivetrain
• Roll chassis under body
• Install new body mounts
• Lower body onto frame
• Re-install body mount hardware
• Re-install core support
• Hook up all wires, lines, etc.

Take a look at my list, did I forget anything? Any tips or tricks? Anything I should be extra careful of?

 

[Dirtgypsy]

too many bulleted points. you lost me at frame wash or something along those lines. one thing that has not been mentioned here is a product called frame epoxy by Russel. it seems to me that its not much more expensive that regular rustoleum, is easy to touch up and may provide a bit more protection.

part number 5144 is like $5 per can and you can get it through napa or car quest auto parts.

frame swap just does not sound like fun so good luck!

clint

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I did a frame swap on my FJ40 in 2 weekends. The 60 will be much more complex. What took the time was the little stuff.

It helps to keep as much intact as you can. Like move the body with everything attached-brake booster, switches hydraulics and electrical.

I would not bother to box the rear-it isn't needed, though it won't hurt. The rear is built to flex with the axle.

Good luck with those body mounts. They will be a crusty mess.

Same some $$ for a set of those 4:1 gears.

Good luck!

 

[Landcruisin'60]

Dont forget to remove the e-brake cable. That and a couple random ground wires made my body/frame separation more difficult than it needed to be. I had to lift my body up high enough to clear the t-case shifter. Not sure why I didnt remove it...probably had to do with rust...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

too many bulleted points. you lost me at frame wash or something along those lines. one thing that has not been mentioned here is a product called frame epoxy by Russel. it seems to me that its not much more expensive that regular rustoleum, is easy to touch up and may provide a bit more protection.

part number 5144 is like $5 per can and you can get it through napa or car quest auto parts.

frame swap just does not sound like fun so good luck!

clint

Thanks Clint! That frame epoxy looks good so I just may go that route.

I did a frame swap on my FJ40 in 2 weekends. The 60 will be much more complex. What took the time was the little stuff.

It helps to keep as much intact as you can. Like move the body with everything attached-brake booster, switches hydraulics and electrical.

I would not bother to box the rear-it isn't needed, though it won't hurt. The rear is built to flex with the axle.

Good luck with those body mounts. They will be a crusty mess.

Same some $$ for a set of those 4:1 gears.

Good luck!

Good ideas, for sure. As for boxing the rear, the inner c-channel has been removed so I have to restore the rigidity somehow, so I figured boxing the frame would be the best route.

Those 4.1 gears look awesome, don't they? I am really thinking about picking up a set of them.

Dont forget to remove the e-brake cable. That and a couple random ground wires made my body/frame separation more difficult than it needed to be. I had to lift my body up high enough to clear the t-case shifter. Not sure why I didnt remove it...probably had to do with rust...

We were thinking about lifting the body maybe 3 inches to ensure everything is disconnected, then deflating the tires to get the rolling chassis even lower. The focus is trying to keep the body as low as possible to the ground. I'd like to keep the core support in the truck but it may have to come out to keep the body low. Safety first!


Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll keep you all updated as I move along!

 

[brokenparts]

Looks like a well thought out plan... just plan on improvising here there. Looking forward to seeing this happen.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

I'm subscribed, I'll be doing a frame swap on my cruiser in june.

 

[TLC Norway]

good luck!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So what's the opinion on the body mounts directly behind the rear wheels? Can they be cut out without any adverse affects? Mine are half removed due to rivet removal for the c-channel and I'd like to lose them so I can gain room to move the axle back in the future.

Zach, this question is directed to you man. Didn't you do that to your rig?
EDIT: Duh, first page of your ROTW thread. Any affects over time from doing that?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198064-rotw-brokenparts-fj-60-a.html#post2913517

 

[slcfj62]

Take lot's of pictures before you take anything apart. Then, when you get to the "where does this go" phase of the reassembly, you will be able to figure it out.

 

[brokenparts]

So what's the opinion on the body mounts directly behind the rear wheels? Can they be cut out without any adverse affects? Mine are half removed due to rivet removal for the c-channel and I'd like to lose them so I can gain room to move the axle back in the future.

Zach, this question is directed to you man. Didn't you do that to your rig?
EDIT: Duh, first page of your ROTW thread. Any affects over time from doing that?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198064-rotw-brokenparts-fj-60-a.html#post2913517

In my opinion they are redundant. I twisted, loaded, peeled out, and tortured my body and never saw anything that would make me think twice about removing them. I could see the need if you were transporting uber amounts of water over the Sahara desert but short of that, I dont think they are necessary.

 

[alaska60]

Holy crap Johnny!!!!
I disappear for a few days and WOW frame swap!!! I love it and you needed it too. a galvy dip may be worth it too.
Good to see it happening!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

In my opinion they are redundant. I twisted, loaded, peeled out, and tortured my body and never saw anything that would make me think twice about removing them. I could see the need if you were transporting uber amounts of water over the Sahara desert but short of that, I dont think they are necessary.

That's what I like to hear, thanks Zach.

Holy crap Johnny!!!!
I disappear for a few days and WOW frame swap!!! I love it and you needed it too. a galvy dip may be worth it too.
Good to see it happening!

Moonshine definitely deserves to have a solid frame. I've beat her up enough, time to return the favor.

Galvanize dip won't be happening, costs too much. Besides, I am going to need to weld on this bad boy in the future and I don't want to produce any toxic fumes when doing so.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Made some progress tonight. Got the shock mounts cut off and took a knotted wire brush to the majority of the frame after letting some engine degreaser sit on the frame for 30 minutes or so. The frame cleaned up like it was new!! Used some self-etching, high zinc content primer and got all the parts that I wire wheeled primed. Looking pretty good!! The rest will get finished up this weekend. My wire brush was at the end of it's life right before I started priming.

Slight change in plans with the rear body mounts. Took a look at the rear most body mounts on the body and they look pretty crusty, so they'll get repaired, but I want to keep the mounts right behind the rear wheels, at least for now.

Up on the keg-stands

Look at how shiny this s*** is

Got what I could primed. Looks like a real frame!!!

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Isn't I great having a nice new frame for your truck. I know how you feel, I hit mine with some bedliner and It looks great. I can't wait to get my body and drivetrain swapped over.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Isn't I great having a nice new frame for your truck. I know how you feel, I hit mine with some bedliner and It looks great. I can't wait to get my body and drivetrain swapped over.

Most definitely. I am going to buy a case of that 3M Rubberized Undercoating and go to town on it.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

I would test it out on some scrap metal first, I tried a couple brands of rubberized undercoating on mine, and most of them sucked, they would scrape right off, I tried rough surface, clean surface and even over primer. . I haven't tried the 3M though. Let me know how it turns out.

Thats Why I'm going to use bedliner.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I would test it out on some scrap metal first, I tried a couple brands of rubberized undercoating on mine, and most of them sucked, they would scrape right off, I tried rough surface, clean surface and even over primer. . I haven't tried the 3M though. Let me know how it turns out.

Thats Why I'm going to use bedliner.

I used the 3M stuff to do the underside of my old M416, worked great. I recommend the stuff. Doesn't dry rock hard, stays somewhat rubbery, but with good surface prep, it should stick very well. My buddy Nick, who's barn I'm using to do this work, used the 3M stuff for the frame on his 4Runner and it looks good a year and a half later.