I may have missed what you read. I don't see where it says anything about it needing to be the topcoat.
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@White Stripe & @magnetman : My interpretation of the two individual LizardSkin products, or the one on top of the other, is that although the LizardSkin products are each a one-component product and are both water-based, both products (or the proper combination of the two) end up being strong, durable, and lasting - once properly cured.Im just saying that is where I got that information, as in I didn't make it up thats all. Not saying I disagree with you, Im no expert on this stuff at all.
It's the first bullet point...I may have missed what you read. I don't see where it says anything about it needing to be the topcoat.
??It's the first bullet point...
- Open the lid of the product you want to apply. When using both products (stacking) ALWAYS apply Sound Control FIRST then apply Ceramic Insulation on top.
Just an update that may be of interest to some of you. The previous owner of my LX450 filled the holes with tape and Monstalined over them. You can see in the pics that the Monstaliner is now coming off where the tape is. I suspect that the tape has poor adhesion properties, and needs a better base for a proper application. I am also including a pic of a stain that has developed on my rocker. I'm not sure what it is, but I can't remove it. I'm assuming it is from some sort of chemical that I either drove through, or ended up there from shop work.
Damn, that sucks about the tape, sorry about that. I wonder if those who did it before me are having the same problems.
To be fair to Monstaliner, I think the stain you're seeing is the 3M rubberized fender spray that the body shop used and not Monstaliner. The small spot of rust that was repaired wasn't re-Monstalined, I think if you go over it with Monstaliner the discoloration will go away permanently.
I don't think the stain is a faultf of the Monstaliner either, but thanks for the update. My main goal of the post was to update folks who may have used the tape method since it seems to be failing a bit.
I have planned on redoing the liner since I bought it from you anyways so it isn't a huge deal for me, but I am curious if anybody else has run into longevity issues as well .
If the liner is coming off the tape, and the tape is the same as some adhesive backed aluminum tape I've seen used for this purpose, it would have needed to be primed first for the ML to stick long term. Liner should never go direct to bare surface like that.
Many people ask about putting ML over Dynamat which can also have a foil facing and we always recommend epoxy primer over the foil first.
Got my entire body rolled after I cut the hole for my snorkel and de-flared. It's a lot of work, but well worth it if you live in the rust beltView attachment 880055
View attachment 880054
Magnetman,
I have a 100 series. I imagine it’s a little smaller than a Tahoe. Would I need 3 gallons to cover it? My paint on it now is in very poor condition. Not sure which part, but either the clear coat or the paint’s uv protector has failed long ago, and caused this splotchyness. The clearcoat is also flaking off. Where it’s splotchy, I’d say the clear coat is at least 50% flaked off.
My thoughts are that I’ll have to sand all of the clearcoat off, even on the panels that aren’t failing. That way, the Monstaliner will adhere to the paint, and not the failing clearcoat. At the bottom of the doors is a plastic cladding. Will I need to just scuff up that paint and roll right over it? What about door/hood/panel seams? Just roll over them? Should I open the doors and paint in the door jams or will the thickness of the monstaliner affect the door opening and closing?
View attachment 1828078
@magnetman
I do my roof in white (great product!) but now I want to color match to my Toyota OEM color. I realize it won't be perfect match. That said, exactly what kind of tint do I need to ask for from auto paint store and what specific points of clafification need to made to them? I've read other instances where the monstaliner setup too quickly due to wrong kind of tint being added to base.