I may have missed what you read. I don't see where it says anything about it needing to be the topcoat.
Monstaliner Bedliner (6 Viewers)
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@White Stripe & @magnetman : My interpretation of the two individual LizardSkin products, or the one on top of the other, is that although the LizardSkin products are each a one-component product and are both water-based, both products (or the proper combination of the two) end up being strong, durable, and lasting - once properly cured.
To my knowledge, the rub is : the finished LizardSkin product is soft enough that it's prone to reveal scratches.
That's it.
That's what seems to be LisardSkin's greatest weakness.
So, to compensate for that, it is suggested by LizardSkin, and by whomever else, that either product of theirs (or after the two have been combined) should be to then topcoat with an automotive or industrial type paint. Or, as we know here, for an even more durable (and really cool) finish - to instead topcoat with a proper application of Monstaliner.
However, as Eric has stated previously, since the Monstaliner is vastly the more rigid of the two company products, the Monstaliner should topcoat the Lizardskin only if on the inside or on the underside of the vehicle's tub (and not at a more flimsy place). Else wise, perhaps traditional paint or similar should serve as the LizardSkin topcoat (due to LizaedSkin's character of being softer & having a greater pliability).
~Skydog
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It's the first bullet point...
- Open the lid of the product you want to apply. When using both products (stacking) ALWAYS apply Sound Control FIRST then apply Ceramic Insulation on top.
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??
The LizardSkin Sound Control (SC) can be used solo.
And similarly, the LizardSkin Ceramic Insulation (CI) can be used solo.
And if one wishes to make use of both products, they're compatible with each other. But if the two are to be simultaneously used, on the same area of the same project, then, the CI must topcoat the SC.
And if one wishes to then make the project surface more so scratch resistant; then, they can topcoat the LizardSkin product(s) with a paint; or, better yet, with something along the lines of Monstaliner.
And, if one wishes to do the project PROPERLY, they 1st use a 'good' 2K epoxy primer PRIOR TO applying the LizardSkin product. AND THEN - AFTER applying the LizardSkin product, but BEFORE applying the selected topcoat (whether paint or Monstaliner, etc).
Hence, if a topcoat is desired other than that of the LizardSkin (which technically can be stand-alone), one should adhere that topcoat to the LizardSkin via a 2K epoxy primer. And equally; to be sure the LizardSkin is applied directly to that of bare metal, etc, but instead applied atop that of the 2K epoxy primer (which is to be applied first).
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Hey Guys,
Here's an update on my 55. I used Zero Rust as the first coat on bare metal, inside and outside of the tub. Then two coats of both SC and CI with the CI going on last, then as final two coats of Monstaliner. I tinted the Monstaliner Cyngus White for inside use. I used the white CI hoping the Monstaliner would cover better over the black color. It's been @ three years now of traveling and off road use and still holding up. I do have a couple rock chips on my front bumper with the Monstaliner, but overall looks great. I use Coco Mats as the only floor mat over all the other stuff and feet stay cool and the cab is nice and quiet.
If using paint over the Lizard Skin be aware it's hard to get coverage over all the pockets ( rough surface ) of the LZ.
Here's an update on my 55. I used Zero Rust as the first coat on bare metal, inside and outside of the tub. Then two coats of both SC and CI with the CI going on last, then as final two coats of Monstaliner. I tinted the Monstaliner Cyngus White for inside use. I used the white CI hoping the Monstaliner would cover better over the black color. It's been @ three years now of traveling and off road use and still holding up. I do have a couple rock chips on my front bumper with the Monstaliner, but overall looks great. I use Coco Mats as the only floor mat over all the other stuff and feet stay cool and the cab is nice and quiet.
If using paint over the Lizard Skin be aware it's hard to get coverage over all the pockets ( rough surface ) of the LZ.
Just an update that may be of interest to some of you. The previous owner of my LX450 filled the holes with tape and Monstalined over them. You can see in the pics that the Monstaliner is now coming off where the tape is. I suspect that the tape has poor adhesion properties, and needs a better base for a proper application. I am also including a pic of a stain that has developed on my rocker. I'm not sure what it is, but I can't remove it. I'm assuming it is from some sort of chemical that I either drove through, or ended up there from shop work.
Damn, that sucks about the tape, sorry about that. I wonder if those who did it before me are having the same problems.
To be fair to Monstaliner, I think the stain you're seeing is the 3M rubberized fender spray that the body shop used and not Monstaliner. The small spot of rust that was repaired wasn't re-Monstalined, I think if you go over it with Monstaliner the discoloration will go away permanently.
I don't think the stain is a faultf of the Monstaliner either, but thanks for the update. My main goal of the post was to update folks who may have used the tape method since it seems to be failing a bit.
I have planned on redoing the liner since I bought it from you anyways so it isn't a huge deal for me, but I am curious if anybody else has run into longevity issues as well .
If the liner is coming off the tape, and the tape is the same as some adhesive backed aluminum tape I've seen used for this purpose, it would have needed to be primed first for the ML to stick long term. Liner should never go direct to bare surface like that.
Many people ask about putting ML over Dynamat which can also have a foil facing and we always recommend epoxy primer over the foil first.
The tape does not look like it was primed, but I can't speak for BltByKrmn since my 80 came from him. I figured this was the deal though after all the info that I have read about your product. That said, I definitely plan to redo the truck in Monstaliner again as I really like the product. I will be doing my gf's XJ with it as well.
Magnetman,
I have a 100 series. I imagine it’s a little smaller than a Tahoe. Would I need 3 gallons to cover it? My paint on it now is in very poor condition. Not sure which part, but either the clear coat or the paint’s uv protector has failed long ago, and caused this splotchyness. The clearcoat is also flaking off. Where it’s splotchy, I’d say the clear coat is at least 50% flaked off.
My thoughts are that I’ll have to sand all of the clearcoat off, even on the panels that aren’t failing. That way, the Monstaliner will adhere to the paint, and not the failing clearcoat. At the bottom of the doors is a plastic cladding. Will I need to just scuff up that paint and roll right over it? What about door/hood/panel seams? Just roll over them? Should I open the doors and paint in the door jams or will the thickness of the monstaliner affect the door opening and closing?
I have a 100 series. I imagine it’s a little smaller than a Tahoe. Would I need 3 gallons to cover it? My paint on it now is in very poor condition. Not sure which part, but either the clear coat or the paint’s uv protector has failed long ago, and caused this splotchyness. The clearcoat is also flaking off. Where it’s splotchy, I’d say the clear coat is at least 50% flaked off.
My thoughts are that I’ll have to sand all of the clearcoat off, even on the panels that aren’t failing. That way, the Monstaliner will adhere to the paint, and not the failing clearcoat. At the bottom of the doors is a plastic cladding. Will I need to just scuff up that paint and roll right over it? What about door/hood/panel seams? Just roll over them? Should I open the doors and paint in the door jams or will the thickness of the monstaliner affect the door opening and closing?
Three gallon should work man. Especially if you don’t **** up your first two coats like i did.
if you will be using monsta liner, you might be able to remove a lot of that clear coat with just a metal putty knife. It would ssve a lot of sand paper.
Hi Pit Elevated,
Did you use the "white" off of the Monstaliner color page?
Looks great!!! How is it holding up?
Regards,
Frank
Did you use the "white" off of the Monstaliner color page?
Looks great!!! How is it holding up?
Regards,
Frank
At least 2 gals here, possibly part of 3rd. You think that has more sq footage than an XJ?
Sand the clearcoat off with 120 grit and scuff well whatever is not failed. There's a good chance you will wind up sanding through basecoat and possibly the primer before you're done so I would then prime it all with 2K epoxy if I was you looking to do the right kind of job.
Plastic must have adhesion promoter before liner. See this PDF
http://www.monstaliner.com/documents/Monstaliner_Coating_Plastic.pdf
At the panel edges you should try to wrap the liner around the edges with the doors open before you line the outside. I can discuss this with you in further detail when you get ready. What color were you planning to use here? May want to consider doing the jambs as well if color will be different.
@magnetman you mention an adhesion promotor for plastics. Any more specific recommendation, brand/type etc? Looking to do the top of a roof top tent (ABS plastic hardshell) because I've had good success doing the roof of my 80. I think there will be other benefits to coating the rooftop tent hardshell (sound deadening, UV Protection, and durability from things scratching it).
lcgeek
Glad to meet you!
@magnetman
I do my roof in white (great product!) but now I want to color match to my Toyota OEM color. I realize it won't be perfect match. That said, exactly what kind of tint do I need to ask for from auto paint store and what specific points of clafification need to made to them? I've read other instances where the monstaliner setup too quickly due to wrong kind of tint being added to base.
I do my roof in white (great product!) but now I want to color match to my Toyota OEM color. I realize it won't be perfect match. That said, exactly what kind of tint do I need to ask for from auto paint store and what specific points of clafification need to made to them? I've read other instances where the monstaliner setup too quickly due to wrong kind of tint being added to base.
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When I've done this I just ask for the pigment "squirts" that make up the color. Basically the "squirts" of each pigment that is added to a gallon of base. Depending on the color it can be from 3oz to 15oz of pigment per gallon.
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4V6 Toyota Quicksand (FJC color)