Monstaliner Bedliner (4 Viewers)

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Mine's not finished, still working on the R2.8 conversion.
Sans Panties
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What do you guys do with all the nooks and crannies if you're rolling? Things like interior area of the gas door, along the top rain gutters of the 80, between doors and such. Do you cut in with a brush, paint with something other than monstaliner, paint a different color? I had planned to lift up rubber seals around windows and such with wire to be sure to get the monstaliner under them, but thinking more and more about popping out the windshield and other glass... though that just adds to the work and time.
 
First time I rolled, and used a brush to cut in.

never took out windshield, had good luck taping it off.

I really recommend spraying. Easy to get into all the small areas.
 
mypancreasbroke said:
What do you guys do with all the nooks and crannies if you're rolling? Things like interior area of the gas door, along the top rain gutters of the 80, between doors and such. Do you cut in with a brush, paint with something other than monstaliner, paint a different color? I had planned to lift up rubber seals around windows and such with wire to be sure to get the monstaliner under them, but thinking more and more about popping out the windshield and other glass... though that just adds to the work and time.
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Pancreas, I brushed thick the edges/corners/seams for coverage, then went back over the same areas with the texture sponge that’s included in the mini kit. Found a matching rattle can of Rustoleum for the hinges/fuel door interior.
 
mypancreasbroke said:
What do you guys do with all the nooks and crannies if you're rolling? Things like interior area of the gas door, along the top rain gutters of the 80, between doors and such. Do you cut in with a brush, paint with something other than monstaliner, paint a different color? I had planned to lift up rubber seals around windows and such with wire to be sure to get the monstaliner under them, but thinking more and more about popping out the windshield and other glass... though that just adds to the work and time.
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The cleanest job is always going to be if you can disassemble and remove as much as possible. When we did my rig last year we pulled and replaced all gaskets and wrapped all the door edges by running tape on the backsides to create a stop line. Naturally this may not be possible in all situations without removing the doors

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salvage60 said:
Thanks, long project of rust repair and I was really looking for a finish that accomplished a few things:

1. I did not want to spray. I do not have a good workspace to do that and after brush / rolling everything I feel like it is better sealed than when I had sprayed parts.
2. I wanted a finish that at best could be hosed off. I painted it "nice" 15 years ago and never waxed or really washed it, it's a tool and I use it.
3. I did not want it to look too rough. In hindsight I wish I had experimented more but it is tough with the pot life. I did the roof with the monstaliner rollers so it has more texture and then moved to the small foam rollers for the rest. The larger areas like the hood would be easier with a smooth foam 9" roller.View attachment 1454221 View attachment 1454222 View attachment 1454223 View attachment 1454224
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Best looking job Ive seen in here, IMO. I'll be using white as well and like your results. I shall use the same roller. If you could do it over would you thin it more? Or at least try for a thinnner coat?
 
TomOsborne said:
Thats a cool look. At first I was thinking how nice your paint was to begin with. But I think I see what you did there... The chrome looks sweet on the flat paint. Dichotomous. Sneaky.
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Thanks but the lighting makes the original paint look much better than it actually was, I never liked the smokey topaz paint and it was scratched and had clear coat peeling everywhere. I was never going to spend the money it would take to get a good full paint job and after following this thread for a long time took the plunge. I questioned it a few times especially when I was into the second day of prep work, but I'm really glad I wentered with the monstaliner
 
Nuspee said:
Thanks but the lighting makes the original paint look much better than it actually was, I never liked the smokey topaz paint and it was scratched and had clear coat peeling everywhere. I was never going to spend the money it would take to get a good full paint job and after following this thread for a long time took the plunge. I questioned it a few times especially when I was into the second day of prep work, but I'm really glad I wentered with the monstaliner
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Will you show some close-ups ? As well as overall in different lighting ? - Your all-black looks really good. Really spiff. ~Skydog
 
Skydog said:
Will you show some close-ups ? As well as overall in different lighting ? - Your all-black looks really good. Really spiff. ~Skydog
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Thanks it's definitely not a perfect job there are some drips, roller marks, uneven patches etc, but I was pretty darn tired by the time I was rolling the second coat after spending friday evening through Sunday morning doing prep. I wish I'd swallowed my pride and asked for a buddy to help. Here are some pictures in the sunlight there is some pollen on it right now:

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Nuspee said:
Thanks it's definitely not a perfect job there are some drips, roller marks, uneven patches etc, but I was pretty darn tired by the time I was rolling the second coat after spending friday evening through Sunday morning doing prep. I wish I'd swallowed my pride and asked for a buddy to help. Here are some pictures in the sunlight there is some pollen on it right now:

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Really good job. Well done !!
 
So another question. I flip flop back and forth all the time about how in depth I want to get in painting my cruiser. Go all out, pull off everything and paint the whole thing inside and out? Just do the basic exterior so my white hood and driver fender no longer clash with the rest of my faded and scratched maroon?

I'm really interested in sound deadening my truck and insulating it from our wonderful Texas summers, and so have been looking into lizard skin for my interior, but don't want to drop my pristine 94 headliner, which has me wondering now... if I did a coat of the lizard skin ceramic material on the top of my cruiser, could I monstaline over it? I would assume the lizard skin would act as a primer, and have read through their site and spent some time reading others experiences, but figured I'd ask the knowledgeable base here.

On the lizard skin FAQ about 'can it be painted' it says 'Yes, as long as any topcoat products have at least 15% flexibility/elongation.' So is my idea viable? I figure no one will ever see the roof, so it's really a function over form thing, but if monstaliner will adhere properly to lizard skin then I think I may try it.
 
mypancreasbroke said:
So another question. I flip flop back and forth all the time about how in depth I want to get in painting my cruiser. Go all out, pull off everything and paint the whole thing inside and out? Just do the basic exterior so my white hood and driver fender no longer clash with the rest of my faded and scratched maroon?

I'm really interested in sound deadening my truck and insulating it from our wonderful Texas summers, and so have been looking into lizard skin for my interior, but don't want to drop my pristine 94 headliner, which has me wondering now... if I did a coat of the lizard skin ceramic material on the top of my cruiser, could I monstaline over it? I would assume the lizard skin would act as a primer, and have read through their site and spent some time reading others experiences, but figured I'd ask the knowledgeable base here.

On the lizard skin FAQ about 'can it be painted' it says 'Yes, as long as any topcoat products have at least 15% flexibility/elongation.' So is my idea viable? I figure no one will ever see the roof, so it's really a function over form thing, but if monstaliner will adhere properly to lizard skin then I think I may try it.
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Interior tub you could do this with no issues. On the exterior rooftop I would be very cautious to the point of not doing it. Lizardskin is a waterbase acrylic coating, much softer and more flexible than Monstaliner which is much harder and does not have anywhere near a 15% elongation value. The 2 coatings will expand and contract at different rates and I personally feel it will eventually fail. To what degree of failure, it's hard to say. I would think that the Monstaliner would start to eventually lose adhesion and pop off the LS if not start cracking. Without testing there is no way to really predict.
 
magnetman said:
Interior tub you could do this with no issues. On the exterior rooftop I would be very cautious to the point of not doing it. Lizardskin is a waterbase acrylic coating, much softer and more flexible than Monstaliner which is much harder and does not have anywhere near a 15% elongation value. The 2 coatings will expand and contract at different rates and I personally feel it will eventually fail. To what degree of failure, it's hard to say. I would think that the Monstaliner would start to eventually lose adhesion and pop off the LS if not start cracking. Without testing there is no way to really predict.
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Great advice. I tried to cover lizard with raptor and it failed after about a year.
 
magnetman said:
Interior tub you could do this with no issues. On the exterior rooftop I would be very cautious to the point of not doing it. Lizardskin is a waterbase acrylic coating, much softer and more flexible than Monstaliner which is much harder and does not have anywhere near a 15% elongation value. The 2 coatings will expand and contract at different rates and I personally feel it will eventually fail. To what degree of failure, it's hard to say. I would think that the Monstaliner would start to eventually lose adhesion and pop off the LS if not start cracking. Without testing there is no way to really predict.
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I'm not at an expert, not even close, but would agree with Eric that applying LizardSkin to an exterior rooftop, and then top coating it with Monstaliner (or even Raptor) is a No-Go of an idea. I'd instead pull the liner on the inside of your vehicle's roof; prepare it and properly apply a good two coats of a 2K Epoxy primer; apply the LizardSkin product; and then coat that with a proper adhesive; and then reapply a brand new OEM type liner. And to do it right further; apply a 2K Epoxy primer onto the fully prepared interior of your vehicle's floorboard; and then the LizardSkin product or products onto the 2K Epoxy primer; and then apply the 2K Epoxy primer a second time, but on top of the properly cured LizardSkin product or products; and then finish your properly done project with a couple coats of Monstaliner. In my opinion, that'd be the best & proper way to go about it - - But I'd make sure you apply the 2K Epoxy primer below the LizardSkin; as well as above it if then topcoating with the Monstaliner. The LizardSkin will need to be top coated with something, either a roof liner (for the interior ceiling); or, with paint or with Monstaliner if on the floorboard (or underside of the tub).
 
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I'm still finishing up but it's definitely worth pulling all doors and hardware. I just made a zip lock bag up for each door etc. I also marked everything and took good pics as to how everything reassembled. I went with epoxy primer with light quartz gray on top. I also used the whizz smooth rollers. They eventually fall apart too. I didn't want to pull glass so elevated rubber seal with some thick weed eater string. I did remove moon roof glass ( 6 10mm nuts) for better access to roll.

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