Monstaliner Bedliner (6 Viewers)

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DieselFJ said:
Has anyone tried to mix insulating paint additive to Monstaliner? I plan on doing this on my 40 both inside and out, sounds like a good solution. From what I understand similiar additives are what make Lizzard Skin work.

Insulating Paint Additive Makes Paint Insulate

https://www.amazon.com/ThermaCels-Insulating-Additive-Gallon-Package/dp/B01AC5KRJ6

Scott
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We've done a lot of work with this type of microspheres and you need to be cautious with something like Monstaliner.
By the time you get enough of this material mixed into the liner to make a difference with heat or sound you will probably have something thicker than peanut butter which will not be suitable for either rolling and certainly not spraying. Something like this needs to be formulated from scratch and won't necessarily work in a post add situation.
 
magnetman said:
We've done a lot of work with this type of microspheres and you need to be cautious with something like Monstaliner.
By the time you get enough of this material mixed into the liner to make a difference with heat or sound you will probably have something thicker than peanut butter which will not be suitable for either rolling and certainly not spraying. Something like this needs to be formulated from scratch and won't necessarily work in a post add situation.
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Thanks for the reply. I wonder if I could use the additive in an epoxy primer, then top coat the primer with Monstaliner.
 
DieselFJ said:
Thanks for the reply. I wonder if I could use the additive in an epoxy primer, then top coat the primer with Monstaliner.
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It really all depends on the viscosity of what you are adding the microspheres to and...
Are you wanting to roll or spray?
Are you trying to control heat or sound? or both?
 
Heat and sound both. I don't mind rolling if it means I could suspend more of the microspheres in the product. I've used Monstaliner before and really like the product so if I can control the heat and sound while having the finished product be Monstaliner I'd be happy.
 
DieselFJ said:
Heat and sound both. I don't mind rolling if it means I could suspend more of the microspheres in the product. I've used Monstaliner before and really like the product so if I can control the heat and sound while having the finished product be Monstaliner I'd be happy.
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Are you aware that with Lizardskin, to control both heat and sound there are actually 2 different products they recommend.
High density/heavy weight item controls sound.
The light weight material controls heat.
They recommend applying the heavy material first followed by the light weight stuff, 40 mils of each separate product in 4 total coats, 80 mils total.

The material you can purchase to add to paint I believe is the light weight stuff which means you will only handle heat and not sound.
Why not just use lizardskin?
 
magnetman said:
Are you aware that with Lizardskin, to control both heat and sound there are actually 2 different products they recommend.
High density/heavy weight item controls sound.
The light weight material controls heat.
They recommend applying the heavy material first followed by the light weight stuff, 40 mils of each separate product in 4 total coats, 80 mils total.

The material you can purchase to add to paint I believe is the light weight stuff which means you will only handle heat and not sound.
Why not just use lizardskin?
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Yeah, I've looked into Lizzardskin and both products. What Lizzardskin lacks is durability which is why I'd really like the Monstaliner as the final coat. I've been looking for the ultimate in product, or product combination and haven't been able to find it yet. One of my favorite coatings was the old Rhino Lining, it did a good job with sound and heat, but was not a DIY product. I think the reason it did such a good job was the overall mass of the product when completed.
 
magnetman said:
LS is not designed as a stand alone wear layer but you can put Monstaliner over top if you let it cure 3 day minimum, week is prob better
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Ah, great to know. I didn't realize that, so I'll definitely be going that route. Thanks for the information, you'll be getting my order sometime later this year.

Thanks
Scott
 
@magnetman :

For my own project, I'm wanting to use both products from LixardSkin (both their heat resistant coating and their sound deadening coating). And as you know, I've long been a fan of your own product.

I'm interested in applying first a really good 2K epoxy primer (from DuPont or Eastwood) to the entirety of my completely barren & rust-free FJ40 tub (of course applying sealer as well). Upon the 2K epoxy primer, I would then wish to apply each of the two Lizardskin products to both the inside topside and inside underside of disassembled, baren tub's floor, wheel wels, and upon both sides of the firewall as well.

Then, atop the properly cured LizardSkin product, I would intend to apply yet another application of 2K epoxy primer. Letting that cure properly. And then top coat with a tinted version of your Monstaliner (topside & underside floor, wheel wells & firewall only).

Is this along the lines of your own recommendation ?

Or if you would deviate, how so would you ?

Thanks !
~Marc
 
That's exactly the way we would recommend just let the LS cure very well before topcoating as it's a water base and all moisture must be gone. In areas that get LS but won't get liner you may want to paint over the LS to seal it so it does not collect dirt. It has a dry semi-porous surface
 
@magnetman :

I thank you.

Understood about proper cure times (as well as proper preparation & proper use of epoxy primer). I'll very likely go much longer for cure - just to make sure (as she is my babe).

Attached below is a manipulated image, by me, of my "mission" & strive. She remains completely dissembled (down to barren chassis), but am wishing to paint her body components first, that they're behind me & formally out of the way.

IMG_0666.JPG


Thanks !
~Marc
 
Got all the doors back on. I thought doors would be harder to remove and replace by myself.I used a moving blanket folded in half and layed across door jamb to get height adjustment without damaging paint. I did have to get help rehanging rear hatch. I broke a few clips when removing flares so I just substituted with some stainless hardware. Couple more pics of progress.

20180503_190648.jpg
 
magnetman said:
LS is not designed as a stand alone wear layer but you can put Monstaliner over top if you let it cure 3 day minimum, week is prob better
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I was under the impression that lizard skin ceramic had to be the top coat to work right. That's what I read on the website before I installed it. That's why I put lizard skin ceramic underneath the floor and Raptor inside.
 
White Stripe said:
I was under the impression that lizard skin ceramic had to be the top coat to work right. That's what I read on the website before I installed it. That's why I put lizard skin ceramic underneath the floor and Raptor inside.
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Absolutely not, it's the thickness of the product with the ceramic fillers that gives you either heat or sound shielding properties. Anything you would apply over it would be for either cosmetic purpose or greater durability
 
magnetman said:
I skimmed through that fast. Are you seeing anything to be cautious about?
If you click on the link to more detailed application instructions, their PDF talks about topcoating with a product they sell in spray cans
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Im just saying that is where I got that information, as in I didn't make it up thats all. Not saying I disagree with you, Im no expert on this stuff at all.
 
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