Mod: Extending range of keyless entry (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Threads
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1,860
Location
Portland, OR
Website
www.shapeways.com
Like other members with early-year Cuisers the effective range of my '98 LC's keyless entry was pretty dismal. We're talking 10 feet at best. New batteries in the key fob didn't help and I may have a permanent imprint on my chin from attempting to use my head as an amplifier.

By relocating the OEM receiver’s antenna I successfully increased the effective range by at least 10x. It requires soldering skills and under-dash acrobatics, so I'd rate this as a multi-banana job.
:banana::banana:

UPDATE: As of 1/2019 at least three members have successfully done this mod, increasing their fob range from "terrible" to 100+ feet. :)

The receiver box ("Receiver, Door Control", P/N 89741-60060 for my '98 LC) is buried in the dash behind the power mirror & vent window switches, an area surrounded by a lot of metal and isn't the best for radio reception. The whole receiver box itself could be relocated but you'd have to extend its 15-wire harness and that's no fun. UPDATE 1/2019: We're also working on a harness extension, I'll link to that when we have a solution.

You'll need to buy:
- 5’-6’ length of small coax cable with a SMA female connector, similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Conn...pPl=1&dpID=41W3VUcQsNL&ref=plSrch&tag=ihco-20

- Short 315MHz antenna with SMA male connector, similar to this: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ant-315-cw-rh-sma-nd

Here's how-to:

The receiver box is difficult to access but once removed it looks like this:

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Pop off the cover to access the circuit board:

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The two curly wires are the stock antennas that you’ll be replacing. There are two of them perpendicular to each other to increase the coverage of the module, but again, being mounted low in the metalized dash greatly reduces their effectiveness.

Remove the two antennas by desoldering them where they connect to the circuit board. NOTE: The part "C1", and any other parts that may be neaby, are DELICATE and easily damaged by a wayward soldering iron, so steer clear and be VERY careful not to knock anything else.

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Next, use a knife to gently scrape away some of the green coating from the large copper section next to the antenna connections, exposing grounded copper underneath. The circuit boards can vary in design, look at the other pictures later in this thread to be sure you’re exposing the correct copper section. Again, be very careful of other components, scraping AWAY from them.

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Apply some solder to the exposed copper area.

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Next, prep the coax cable as shown below. If your cable has two connectors cut off the one you don't need (double check by screwing on the antenna) and strip away a small (1/8") length of the center conductor. Gather the braided shield together and apply solder to it to keep it together.

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Solder the center conductor to the ANT1 hole (either will do, electrically), and solder the braid to the exposed copper pad.

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Cut a notch in the box cover, opposite the large opening, for the coax cable to exit:

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Loop the coax once above the PCB for a strain relief, and re-install the box cover:

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Re-install the box under the dash (the most frustrating part of the job IMO) and fish the cable up the left side of your dash, across the top of the instrument cluster, and over to your radio. For access you'll need to remove either the cluster or left A-pillar trim, and your radio trim. Once you can grab hold of the radio trim it pulls straight out with friction clips.

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Mount the antenna VERTICALLY on the plastic radio support with a zip-tie, being sure not to place it directly adjacent to any metal. I found the location below to work great. Also, I wrapped the coax in felt tape to help minimize noises while driving.

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A couple notes on antenna placement & operation: Antennas like this have a donut-shaped sensitivity pattern so vertical is the optimum orientation for our use. I.e. if it was horizontal you would have good reception front & back, but zero reception left & right.

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Here's another visual of how not to mount an antenna. Vertical mounting has the most range. Swept-back mounting may look cool, but it's best for talking to ducks or the moon.

IMG_3123.JPG
 
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Subscribed.....I did the antenna through the brain trick and it didn’t work. Looking forward to this!

Would love to see how you accessed the box....take the trim below the steering wheel off, etc? Or put your head on the brake pedal and feel?
 
Subscribed.....I did the antenna through the brain trick and it didn’t work. Looking forward to this!

Would love to see how you accessed the box....take the trim below the steering wheel off, etc? Or put your head on the brake pedal and feel?
At first I accessed the box that way, by pulling the lower trim and sticking a loooong 10mm extension through the power mirror wire harness hole. When I re-installed, I just dove in from below with a variety of stubby wrenches. It ain't easy no matter how you approach it.
 
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At first I accessed the box that way, by pulling the lower trim and sticking a loooong 10mm extension through the power mirror wire harness hole. When I re-installed, I just dove in from below the a variety of stubby wrenches. It ain't easy no matter how you approach it.

Thanks. Trying to find the antenna on Amazon with no luck. Definitely a project I want to do ASAP.
 
There must have been model year improvements, because my 2004 LC remote range is about 75 feet. In fact, it will auto relock before I get to the car, if I don't walk quickly.
Dave
 
Thanks. Trying to find the antenna on Amazon with no luck. Definitely a project I want to do ASAP.
Finding an inexpensive, short, straight, domestic 315MHz antenna on Amazon is elusive. Digi-Key is the best source for parts like that. They ship same-day if ordered by 8pm CST and can ship via USPS First Class for $3.75 if it's under 8 oz. This is the $8 antenna I bought: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ant-315-cw-rh-sma-nd

This is an inexpensive Amazon 6’ coax cable: https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Conn...sma+female&dpPl=1&dpID=41W3VUcQsNL&ref=plSrch
 
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Next, use a knife to gently scrape away some of the green coating next to the antenna connections, exposing copper underneath. Again, be very careful of C1, scraping to the right, AWAY from it.

View attachment 1865110

Apply some solder to the exposed copper area.

View attachment 1865111

Next, prep the coax cable as shown below. If your cable has two connectors cut off the one you don't need (double check by screwing on the antenna) and strip away a small (1/8") length of the center conductor. Gather the braided shield together and apply solder to it to keep it together.

View attachment 1865112

Solder the center conductor to the ANT1 hole (either will do, electrically), and solder the braid to the exposed copper pad.

View attachment 1865113
View attachment 1865114



Nice!!!!!!!!!!! So many doggone mods to try! And not enough time... love this forum!
 
Could you solder small speaker wire to the factory antennas in the box and run them up the a-pillar?
 
Would it be possible for a shop that specializes in custom wiring harnesses to make a simple plug and play extension just to route this box somewhere else in the vehicle?

Also thought about buying a used box off EBay in case I mess up my factory original. If I go that route does anyone know if re-programming would be required???
 
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Would it be simpler to solder onto the existing antennae or would that cause too much stress? Great mod BTW!
 
I've used the brain antenna - hold remote to underside of chin and press button - with every car I've had - seems to add 50% to the range. Okay, sure... I see sparkles and wet my pants when someone rings the doorbell, but we all make sacrifices.
 
I have the exact same antenna and coax that @Ayune used coming in today from Digikey....will be trying to do this either tonight or this weekend.
 
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