MOBY DICK gets a turn !

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But now you won't know where your rigs been. Leaving it's scent for others to smell and see. It's just territorial. Bad landcruiser.
 
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Oh and also Phils spare is just the stock size and old and dry rotted like most. I forgot to look at what Lugs the TRD wheels use to Match that. Need to double check. Sorry for taking so long on the wheel
 
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Oh and also Phils spare is just the stock size and old and dry rotted like most. I forgot to look at what Lugs the TRD wheels use to Match that. Need to double check. Sorry for taking so long on the wheel

Not a big deal. If its an LX wheel I don't mind if the spare is dry rotted. I'm replacing it with a 315 anyway. I have an OEM LC wheel with stock size spare that would still be usable if that's what he's looking for.
 
Yes it's the lx and he has acorn style with his new wheels so if you have the older acorn conical seat 16" that would be a plus
 
lx should have the flange, flat style lug nuts. The older rigs had the acorn style, but I think that ended in 1994.
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Correct but he has TRD wheels using acorn so his spare as it is needs different lugs if he trades for the older style it matches. I believe he alsaid he had both styles. That's why I clarified.
 
Gotcha... carry on.
 
I have not had a working fuel gauge for over a year now, its just sat on empty the whole time ! Luckily the low level sender is on a different circuit then the float, so I do still get the yellow light once it gets down to the last 5 gallons or so. Knowing for sure that if I pull the pump I would find a loose wire or connection I ordered up some parts and decided to get down to it. Lots of nasty stuff on top of the pump cover, used comp air, water, and a toothbrush to get it cleaned up good before pulling the pump.
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And here is the pump sitting on the bench. Note that there are no loose wires, the sending unit is in fabulous shape, and it is soon to get a new filter sock and gasket. Then back in it goes !
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Still no fuel level indicator. Must follow the rabbit hole deeper !
 
Alas, the culprit. I was able to trace the sending unit/pump power wires over the top of the tank to the back of the DS rocker panel. One of the wires was broken about a 1/4'' behind the plug you see below. Its difficult to get to, but I was able to disconnect it and send it up through the floor on the DS middle row so I could work on it. This job would be easier if my DS rear door would open, but it also suffered a mysterious failure while in CO. Laying on my stomach I was able to unpin the connector, strip the ends, then solder the two halves of the wire back together. Add in a little electrical tape, blow on my burned fingers, re connect, and viola a working fuel gauge. Sometimes the small things in life......
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Well ever since I got this new I phone I haven't been able to figure out how to get pictures up. Hard to keep track of my progress now. I managed to email myself these but I think I need to figure out the cloud thingy in order to keep my thread streamlined. So here it goes. Pretend the date is October 28th, time 0800hrs. I pull into my driveway, stop the truck, and immediately notice a cloud of visible vapor pushing out from under the front of the hood. Could it be, am I so lucky ? Oh yes, its time for a new radiator. I've been waiting patiently and it looks like Xmas is going to come early this year ! I place a call to Olathe Toyota and they have one on order for the next day. Well winter is coming and the truck is going to be down for the next 24 hours so why not rebuild the starter with some of the parts off of my shelf !
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Made an emergency trip to Olathe Toyota the next morning. I can't say enough good things about that place. Awesome parts department (ended up buying more than I came for ) Very courteous employees, and got a great discount. I order the vast majority of my parts online and have ordered from Dan and Beno as well. Sometimes though its nice to walk into an actual dealership and have a cup of coffee while getting your parts.
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The old rad must have been getting a little plugged up as I noticed a 5* drop over my normal average. I feel a lot better knowing the entire cooling system is refreshed and the rear heat is bypassed. The coolant line under the throttle body is the only thing remaining from the stock system. I'm also very glad this didn't let go when we were in Colorado back in September. Here's a shot of the truck all back together after I installed new wipers and rain x'd the windows.
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If you haven't rain x'd your windows this year, I highly recomend it. It made a huge difference during all the rain we had around thanksgiving. Its also a good time to clean the interior glass in order to cut down on some of the seasonal fogging.
 
The old rad must have been getting a little plugged up as I noticed a 5* drop over my normal average

I noticed the same thing when I replaced mine with the OEM radiator. My radiator was starting to show signs of seepage at the top. Figured the OEM one lasted 220k miles so went back with OEM.
 
is that your modded 12K HF winch in the Short Bus?
Where you mounted the control box, did you fab a bracket?
and did the stock wires make the connections, or did you upgrade those too?

sweet build on the rig.
 
is that your modded 12K HF winch in the Short Bus?
Where you mounted the control box, did you fab a bracket?
and did the stock wires make the connections, or did you upgrade those too?

sweet build on the rig.

Thank you. Yes that's the HF winch, the control box is between the radiator and the grill, about where the horns used to sit. In fact I removed the factory horns to make room. It allows me to snake the control wire between the grill to plug into the box, but keeps people from tampering with it when not in use.
 
Hey, it looks like I can actually get pictures from my I phone > computer > mud now ! Guess its time for some updates. First up, a little Xmas money well spent. I decided I didn't like not having horns, couldn't believe how many times I almost got hit not being able to alert in attentive drivers. Since my winch solenoid box was occupying the space where the factory horns went I had to make a decision. Make a bracket and put the horns somewhere else ( blocking more of the radiator ) or move the solenoid box. Out goes the box. I now have a functioning set of Supertones and a non functioning winch........
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I literally cut into the solenoid box the other night. The silicone I used really got her sealed up good. In any case the solenoid is getting mounted more remotely and most importantly out of the way of the radiator and non accessible to tampering.
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I took this pic to show that despite all the precaution I took to keep moisture out, there was still condensation forming inside the box. I think I will post these in addendum to my HF Badlands 12 k DIY winch hack waterproof upgrade mod thread to let others know that it didn't work that great.
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You can see how some corrosion was starting to form on the connections. Its not bad and I attribute that to my over zealous use of di-electric grease. Once I have the solenoid mounted without the box I will be able to keep a much better eye on these connections. Since this is the number one failure point for an electric winch, i'm going to take my time and think this one out.
 
More on this topic later. I am currently awaiting some goodies from Olathe Toyota. Once they arrive I can complete the winch solenoid relocation and get my winch back in service. Hopefully with the upgrades it will be working even better than before. Also trying to design a rear swingout and started a thread over in 80 tech. I'm thinking the spindle that @2fpower has and some 2x3 tubing will get me a nice long single swing out.
 

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