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Clear photo of what part of a 76 clutch setup?
Mixing clutch slave parts from different years (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter hobbes
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Wouldn’t it be a lot simpler to thread some round stock and make a longer pushrod to work with that slave than pulling the trans to swap the fork over, move the slave, and fab a hydraulic line to run across the firewall?
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Here's a post with some pics of 1976 clutch stuff installed in a 1962 FJ45.
FJ45SWB recovered from a barn
FJ45SWB recovered from a barn
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It would be easier, but still leaves the slave on the hokey early bracket, angled slightly off axis, and being cooked by the downpipe.
- Thread starter
- #25
Jim, that photo is exactly what I was looking for. The big question is if I have to pull the trans. That would change my plans. I got that fork installed in about 30 minutes. I noted the pivot nut probably couldn’t be completely extracted. So with it not being “pre-installed” on the pax side, it could be a no-go. I’ll take a closer look when I get a bit of time.
...and now that I think about it, hopefully I saved my old fork and pivot. That would tell me for sure before any disassembly. I always regret throwing stuff away....
...and now that I think about it, hopefully I saved my old fork and pivot. That would tell me for sure before any disassembly. I always regret throwing stuff away....
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- Thread starter
- #26
Just looking at the pivot bolt. No way it'll go in without sliding back the trans an inch or so. I've got some "guide dowels" I made to mate the engine and trans. I could use those and maybe slide the trans back an inch. Just takes time and money...
And, of course, I threw out my old fork...
And, of course, I threw out my old fork...
Ya I tried to replace a fork once, the earlier 3 speed variety, couldn't do it from the outside. Just wasn't enough room to move it around and get it in or out or back on the ball or something, just didn't work. Didn't even try to move the pivot ball.
If you go to SOR, you'll see this image of motor mount orientation:
By the way, where did you source that new windshield washer reservoir, that fits on the stock bracket?
By the way, where did you source that new windshield washer reservoir, that fits on the stock bracket?
- Thread starter
- #30
That’s a great photo. Thanks!
I went cheapo on the washer. But it slid right in and worked right off the bat with good pressure. It comes with a flimsy mount, but I still had the OEM one. Either would have worked fine. I was pretty surprised it worked as well as it did.
I went cheapo on the washer. But it slid right in and worked right off the bat with good pressure. It comes with a flimsy mount, but I still had the OEM one. Either would have worked fine. I was pretty surprised it worked as well as it did.
Windshield Washer Tank Pump for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ50 FJ55 FJ60 HJ | eBay
Toyota Land Cruiser Fj40 Fj45 Fj50 Fj55 Fj60 Fj62 Fj70 Fj75. Pair Tail Light rear combination for Mazda 1000 1200 Truck Pickup Ute. PART THAILAND Your Car's Vin# for. Part Number is given for information .
www.ebay.com
That’s a great photo. Thanks!
I went cheapo on the washer. But it slid right in and worked right off the bat with good pressure. It comes with a flimsy mount, but I still had the OEM one. Either would have worked fine. I was pretty surprised it worked as well as it did.
Windshield Washer Tank Pump for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ50 FJ55 FJ60 HJ | eBay
Toyota Land Cruiser Fj40 Fj45 Fj50 Fj55 Fj60 Fj62 Fj70 Fj75. Pair Tail Light rear combination for Mazda 1000 1200 Truck Pickup Ute. PART THAILAND Your Car's Vin# for. Part Number is given for information .www.ebay.com
Afraid I cannot swallow the shipping... no way,
- Thread starter
- #33
Update:
I held the pedal down for a couple minutes yesterday and the pressure did not bleed off. But still, once on a drive, the release point got low (on initial start). So I decided to see how difficult it would be to swap sides with the slave.
It was actually pretty easy, with a couple caveats. First, my current setup hasn't been together too long so I'm not dealing with rusty/frozen stuff. Second, I'm not a big guy and smaller hands are probably helpful getting the top spring clip that hold the fork to the release bearing hub.
I dropped one side of the front drive shaft, the inspection cover, and took off the slave to fork arm and spring. I removed two trans to bell housing bolts and screwed in two dowels I had previously made to join the engine and trans. I loosened the two other bolts and slide the trans back about 1/4" to 1/2". Not much at all. I just used a big screw driver as a pry bar. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it slid back.
Then I turned to on the fork. I don't know what about my setup makes this easy. Maybe a 1975 bell housing has a bit of extra room. It took all of 5 minutes to remove the fork from the driver's side and move it to the passenger side (US). Remove the fork to hub clips. Remove the pivot bolt and pivot. (That is the only reason the trans needs to be slid back. Again, not more than 1/2" max.). If you are staring at the front of the engine and the fork is on the right, twist and move the fork up and left (11 o'clock in the bell housing), then twist and drop the fork out of bottom of the bell housing. Installation is the opposite.
The hardest part was attaching the top clip for the fork to release bearing hub. I finally used a screw driver through the hole the fork previously occupied to get the spring onto the hub. Then I snapped it into place with my fingers.
Install the pivot, rubber covers, reinstall and tighten the trans bolts. Probably took me 2.5 hours working slowly and on my back.
I'll update again after I get a new master and lines. From here I'm hoping it is near identical effort if I had just changed the master and lines and kept them on the same side. I know I'll have to reroute the starter to frame ground...
I held the pedal down for a couple minutes yesterday and the pressure did not bleed off. But still, once on a drive, the release point got low (on initial start). So I decided to see how difficult it would be to swap sides with the slave.
It was actually pretty easy, with a couple caveats. First, my current setup hasn't been together too long so I'm not dealing with rusty/frozen stuff. Second, I'm not a big guy and smaller hands are probably helpful getting the top spring clip that hold the fork to the release bearing hub.
I dropped one side of the front drive shaft, the inspection cover, and took off the slave to fork arm and spring. I removed two trans to bell housing bolts and screwed in two dowels I had previously made to join the engine and trans. I loosened the two other bolts and slide the trans back about 1/4" to 1/2". Not much at all. I just used a big screw driver as a pry bar. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it slid back.
Then I turned to on the fork. I don't know what about my setup makes this easy. Maybe a 1975 bell housing has a bit of extra room. It took all of 5 minutes to remove the fork from the driver's side and move it to the passenger side (US). Remove the fork to hub clips. Remove the pivot bolt and pivot. (That is the only reason the trans needs to be slid back. Again, not more than 1/2" max.). If you are staring at the front of the engine and the fork is on the right, twist and move the fork up and left (11 o'clock in the bell housing), then twist and drop the fork out of bottom of the bell housing. Installation is the opposite.
The hardest part was attaching the top clip for the fork to release bearing hub. I finally used a screw driver through the hole the fork previously occupied to get the spring onto the hub. Then I snapped it into place with my fingers.
Install the pivot, rubber covers, reinstall and tighten the trans bolts. Probably took me 2.5 hours working slowly and on my back.
I'll update again after I get a new master and lines. From here I'm hoping it is near identical effort if I had just changed the master and lines and kept them on the same side. I know I'll have to reroute the starter to frame ground...
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Anyone know the port sizes on the Master cylinder and slave cylinder? On rockauto the one I found for my 65 lists 7/16-20 for the slave cylinder but I can't find anything else to double check. I'm wanting to get a stainless braided hose made while I'm ordering parts.
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Brakes in those years were a bastard 9mm thread diameter. Not positive that clutch was the same.
Might be a good time to order a MC and SC for ~1972 FJ40 to get pieces with modern 10mm fittings.
Lines are available at FLAPS, universal hose is available from Summit.
Earl's Performance Speed-Flex Brake Lines 63080913ERL
Might be a good time to order a MC and SC for ~1972 FJ40 to get pieces with modern 10mm fittings.
Lines are available at FLAPS, universal hose is available from Summit.
Earl's Performance Speed-Flex Brake Lines 63080913ERL
- Thread starter
- #36
The "new" setup is in. Since I was changing the master cylinder and the rubber line either way, switching sides was only marginally more work (3 hours working slow and drinking coffee) and an additional $20. The reason it took so long for me to complete the work was waiting for a used hardline from cuiserparts...then my work got busy. The system bleed extremely easy, the adjustments seem right on at first whack, and first test drive was perfect. I'll update this post a final time after I get a few drives on it to ensure the problem has FINALLY been properly addressed.
New Racer65 rear engine mounts were installed properly.
Thanks again for the help everyone...
New Racer65 rear engine mounts were installed properly.
Thanks again for the help everyone...
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- Thread starter
- #39
If a pivot ball is to be added or removed the trans must be slid back about 1/4" to allow the pivot ball BOLT to be completely removed or inserted due to the length of the bolt. You can free the bolt from the pivot ball, but there isn't enough room to back the bolt out. If, for some reason, you had a pivot ball on the "other side" from where the fork is there is no need to slide the trans. At least not in my case (75 bell housing). Simply move the fork over to the other pivot.
Does that make sense?
Edit: Sliding the trans was very easy, but I already had made a couple dowels and the entire setup hadn't be together long enough to "fuse". Just a screw driver sufficed.
Does that make sense?
Edit: Sliding the trans was very easy, but I already had made a couple dowels and the entire setup hadn't be together long enough to "fuse". Just a screw driver sufficed.
If you only need to slide the tranny back a 1/4", couldn't you just loosen the trans to bell housing bolts about that much, and not have to use the dowels? My F engine w/ 3 speed has 13 mm bolts, so dowels are harder to find...
