Update:
I held the pedal down for a couple minutes yesterday and the pressure did not bleed off. But still, once on a drive, the release point got low (on initial start). So I decided to see how difficult it would be to swap sides with the slave.
It was actually pretty easy, with a couple caveats. First, my current setup hasn't been together too long so I'm not dealing with rusty/frozen stuff. Second, I'm not a big guy and smaller hands are probably helpful getting the top spring clip that hold the fork to the release bearing hub.
I dropped one side of the front drive shaft, the inspection cover, and took off the slave to fork arm and spring. I removed two trans to bell housing bolts and screwed in two dowels I had previously made to join the engine and trans. I loosened the two other bolts and slide the trans back about 1/4" to 1/2". Not much at all. I just used a big screw driver as a pry bar. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it slid back.
Then I turned to on the fork. I don't know what about my setup makes this easy. Maybe a 1975 bell housing has a bit of extra room. It took all of 5 minutes to remove the fork from the driver's side and move it to the passenger side (US). Remove the fork to hub clips. Remove the pivot bolt and pivot. (That is the only reason the trans needs to be slid back. Again, not more than 1/2" max.). If you are staring at the front of the engine and the fork is on the right, twist and move the fork up and left (11 o'clock in the bell housing), then twist and drop the fork out of bottom of the bell housing. Installation is the opposite.
The hardest part was attaching the top clip for the fork to release bearing hub. I finally used a screw driver through the hole the fork previously occupied to get the spring onto the hub. Then I snapped it into place with my fingers.
Install the pivot, rubber covers, reinstall and tighten the trans bolts. Probably took me 2.5 hours working slowly and on my back.
I'll update again after I get a new master and lines. From here I'm hoping it is near identical effort if I had just changed the master and lines and kept them on the same side. I know I'll have to reroute the starter to frame ground...